HARRY  ALEXANDER  MACFADDEN 


RAMBLES  IN  THE 
FAR  WEST. 


BY 


HARRY  ALEXANDER 
MACFADDEN. 


Published  by  the 

STANDARD  PRINTING  HOUSE, 
Hollidaysburg,  Pennsylvania. 


Copyright,  1906, 

By  Harry  Alexander  MacFadden. 

All  rights  reserved. 


FOREWORD. 

The  matter  contained  in  the  following  pages  descrip- 
tive of  the  tour  made  by  the  members  of  the  National  Edi- 
torial Association  of  the  United  States  in  the  summer  of 
1905  through  the  Middle  West,  West,  Southwest  and 
Pacific  Coast  of  the  United  States,  was  originally  publish- 
ed in  the  form  of  letters,  by  the  author,  in  the  Democratic 
Standard,  at  Hollidaysburg,  Pennsylvania. 

Many  of  our  friends  of  the  Association,  and  others, 
who  were  much  interested,  but  were  unable  to  read  all  the 
letters,  urged  that  they  be  collected  and  published  in  book 
form,  so  that  they  might  be  more  generally  read  and  circu- 
lated— hence  this  book. 

The  general  mass  of  our  citizens  have  but  vague  and 
indefinite  ideas  of  the  great  resources,  vast  extent,  unlimited 
possibilities  and  golden  opportunities  of  our  great  land 
beyond  the  Missisippis  River.  If  any  of  our  readers  shall 
obtain  any  pleasure,  satisfaction,  profit  and  better  knowledge 
of  the  Greatest  Republic  on  the  face  of  the  earth  by  the 
perusal  of  these  pages  we  will  be  well  repaid  for  our  labor. 

Since  these  letters  went  into  print  the  awful  earthquake 
disaster  occurred  at  San  Francisco;  therefore  the  parts  re- 
lating to  that  city  and  the  illustrations  thereof  will  have 
peculiar  interest  and  value. 

We  desire  to  acknowledge  our  appreciation  of  the 
courtesies  extended  us,  in  the  matter  of  securing  illustra- 
tions, by  the  Southern  Pacific,  Denver  and  Rio  Grande, 
Rock  Island,  Santa  Fe,  Union  Pacific  and  the  Missouri, 
Kansas  and  Texas  Railroads,  and  the  Oregon  Railroad 
and  Navigation  Company. 

HARRY  ALEXANDER  MACFADDEN. 
Hollidaysburg,  Pa.,  July  10th,  1906. 


CONTENTS. 

PAGE 

Chapter  I.     The  Beginning  of  the  Journey  1 

Chapter  II.     Guthrie,  the  Convention  City  5 

Chapter  III.  Oklahoma,  the  Land  of  the  Fair  God, 

Its  Beauties  and  Possibilities  11 

Chapter  IV.     The  Indian  Pageant  at  the  101  Ranch         1 7 

Chapter  V.  The  Indian  Territory,  where  the  Noble 

Redmen  Royally  Entertain  the  Paleface  23 

Chapter  VI.  The  Lone  Star  State,  Texas  a  Mighty 

Empire  27 

Chapter  VII.  Dallas,  Houston,  Galveston,  the 

Commercial  Centers  31 

Chapter  VIII.  San  Antonio,  the  Venice  of  Ameri- 
ca, the  Alamo,  the  Missions  44 

Chapter  IX.  The  Rio  Grande,  the  Plains  of  West- 
ern Texas,  the  Pecos  River  Bridge,  El  Paso, 
Juarez,  Mexico  54 

Chapter  X.  The  Deserts  of  New  Mexico  and  Ari- 
zona, the  Cacti  65 

Chapter  XI.  The  Plains  and  Valleys  of  California, 

the  Golden  State,  the  Sea  of  Salt  73 

Chapter  XII.  Eaverside,  the  Home  of  the  Orange, 

the  Magnolias  81 

Chapter  XIII.  Los  Angeles,  Pasadena,  the  Beauti- 
ful; Mount  Lowe,  the  Alpine  Tavern  86 

Chapter  XIV.  Santa  Catalina  Island,  the  Marine 

Gardens,  the  Leaping  Tuna  95 

Chapter  XV.  Los  Angeles,  the  City  of  the  Angels, 

Its  Power  and  Beauty  101 

Chapter  XVI.  Santa  Barbara,  the  Incomparable; 

the  Newport  of  the  Pacific  109 


PAGE 

Chapter  XVII.  Del  Monte,  the  Superbly  Beauti- 
ful; Monterey,  California's  First  Capital  115 

Chapter  XVIII.  Santa  Cruz,  the  Atlantic  City  of 
the  Sunset  State ;  the  Sylvan  Breakfast  'Neath 
the  "Big  Trees"  121 

Chapter  XIX.  The  Nile-like  Valleys,  Stanford  Un- 
iversity, Santa  Clara  Missions,  San  Jose  133 

Chapter  XX.  San  Francisco,  the  Queen  of  the 

Golden  Gate  141 

Chapter  XXI.  Chinatown,  the  Barbaric,  Mystic 

and  Wondrous  155 

Chapter  XXII.  Oakland,  Mount  Tamalpais,  the 

Crookedest  Railroad  in  the  World  163 

Chapter  XXIII.  The  Straits  of  Carnequinez,  the 
Largest  Ferry  Boat  in  the  World,  Sacramento 
the  Capital  170 

Chapter  XXIV.  Dunsmuir,  the  Lady  Barbers,  the 

Lordly  Mt.  Shasta,  Mt.  Shasta  Springs  176 

Chaper  XXV.  Our  First  Glimpse  of  Oregon ;  Med- 

ford,  Salem  183 

Chaper  XXVI.  Portland,  the  Rose  City ;  the  Lew- 
is and  Clark  Exposition,  Sacajawea,  the  Indian 
Princess  187 

Chapter  XXVII.  The  La  Grande  Valley,  Hot 
Lake,  Baker  City,  Boy  Hunter  Throws  Gold  at 
Deer  202 

Chapter  XXVIII.  Idaho,  the  Snake  River  Canyon, 

the  Bear  River  Irrigation  214 

Chapter  XXIX.  Utah,  the  Mormon  State,  Its  Ex- 
ploration and  History  217 

Chapter  XXX.  Salt  Lake  City,  the  Great  Salt 

Lake,  the  Tabernacle,  the  Temple  the  Mormons  221 


PAGE 

Chapter  XXXI.  On  the  way  to  Colorado,  Glen- 
wood  Springs  the  Wonderful,  the  Mineral  Springs 
and  Vapor  Caves  230 

Chapter  XXXII.  The  Canyon  of  the  Grand,  the 

Mount  of  the  Holy  Cross,  the  Royal  Gorge  234 

Chapter  XXXIII.  Pueblo,  the  Pittsburg  of  the 

West  243 

Chapter  XXXIV.  Colorado  Springs,  the  Scenic 
Spot  of  America ;  Pike's  Peak,  the  Sublime ;  Man- 
itou,  the  Picturesque  247 

Chapter  XXXV.  The  Garden  of  the  Gods,  the 
Enchanted  Indian  Temple  of  the  Great  Spirit 
Manitou  257 

Chapter  XXXVI.  South  Cheyenne  Canyon,  the 

Spot  of  Poetic  Beauty  and  Romance  262 

Chapter  XXXVII.  Denver,  the  City  of  Sunshine, 

The  Parting  of  the  Ways  271 


INDEX  TO  ILLUSTRATIONS. 

PAGE 

Portrait  of  the  Author  Frontispiece 

Union  Depot,  St.  Louis  1 

Masonic  Temple,  Guthrie,  Oklahoma  6 

Street  Scene,  Guthrie,  Oklahoma  8 

View  of  Oil  Town  of  Cleveland,  Oklahoma  14 

Pets  of  La  Sandia  Ranch,  Texas  24 

Herd  of  Texan  Fat  Steers  27 
Mexican  Sheep  Shearers  at  Dinner  on  a  Texan  Ranch     28 

Typical  Residences,  Houston,  Texas  32 

Harbor  and  Shipping,  Galveston,  Texas  34 

First  Presbyterian  Church,  Houston,  Texas  35 

Sea  Wall  and  Bathing  Pavilion,  Galveston,  Texas  36 

Mexican  Bull  Fight  60 

Tournament  of  Roses,  Pasadena,  California  86 

Hotel  Raymond,  Pasadena,  California  88 

Bathing  Hour  at  Avalon,  Santa  Catalina  Island  95 

Handsome  Catch  of  Albicore,  Santa  Catalina  Island  96 

Tropical  Park,  Santa  Catalina  Island  98 

Rose  Embowered  Seminary,  Los  Angeles  101 

Typical  Residence,  Los  Angeles  102 

Oil  Wells  in  the  Pacific  Ocean,  California  108 

Hotel  Potter  and  Santa  Barbara  Bay  109 

General  View  of  Santa  Cruz,  California  121 

One  Day's  Catch  of  King  Salmon,  Santa  Cruz  123 

Big  Tree  Grove,  Santa  Cruz'  124 

The  Wave  Cave  Santa  Cruz  126 

Some  Flower  Embowered  Homes,  San  Jose  133 

View  of  Santa  Clara  Valley,  California  135 

Saint  Claire  Club  House,  San  Jose  137 

Alum  Rock  Park,  San  Jose  138 


PAGE 

Sunset  at  the  Golden  Gate,  San  Francisco  141 

Dolores  Mission,  San  Francisco  142 

Japanese  Tea  Garden,  Golden  Gate  Park  144 

Italian  Quarter,  San  Francisco  146 

Oriental  Street  Venders,  San  Francisco  148 

Strange  Craft  of  All  Nations,  San  Francisco  150 

Sentinel  of  the  Tong,  Chinatown  152 

Seals  on  Seal  Rock,  San  Francisco  154 

Mexican  Quarter,  San  Francisco  157 

Street  of  Residences,  Chinatown  159 

Capitol  Building  and  Park,  Sacramento  170 
County  Court  House  and  Sutters  Fort,  Sacramento        174 

Snow  Crowned  Mount  Shasta  180 

Street  Scene,  Baker  City,  Oregon  202 

Multnomah  Falls,  Oregon  213 

Valley  of  the  Grand  River,  Colorado  230 

Hotel  Colorado,  Glenwood  Springs  230 

Wampah  Spring,  Glenwood  Springs  232 

Mammoth  Swimming  Pool,  Glenwood  Springs  234 

Mount  of  the  Holy  Cross,  Colorado  239 

The  Currecanti  Needle,  Colorado  240 

Cog  Wheel  Railroad  Ascending  Pike's  Peak  247 


5 


w 

Q 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 
CHAPTER  I. 

THE  BEGINNING  OF  THE  JOURNEY. 

THE  National  Editorial  Association  of  the  United 
States,  at  its  session  last  year  at  St.  Louis,  Missouri, 
made  a  wise  decision  when  it  accepted  the  invitation,  so 
generously  extended,  of  the  Press  Association  and  Citizens' 
Committee  to  hold  its  meeting  of  1905  at  the  city  of  Guth- 
rie,  Oklahoma  Territory.  The  Executive  Committee  of  the 
Association  fixed  the  dates  of  the  20th  annual  convention 
for  June  7th,  8th  and  9th,  1905  There  had  been  so  much 
disscussion  in  the  press  for  several  years  about  the  vast 
resources  and  possibilities  of  Oklahoma  and  Indian  Ter- 
ritories, and  the  desires  of  these  two  territories  for  entry 
into  the  Union  as  a  single  state,  that  all  the  editors  were 
anxious  to  go  upon  the  ground  and  view  the  situation  over 
in  person. 

The  Pennsylvania  editors  being  desirous  of  seeing  new 
things,  through  the  courtesy  and  consideration  of  Mr.  A.  S. 
Crane,  General  Passenger  Agent,  and  Mr.  F.  H.  Tristram, 
Assistant  General  Passenger  Agent  of  the  Wabash  Railway, 
were  enabled  to  view  in  the  best  style  the  wonders  of  en- 
gineering on  that  wonderful  railroad  from  Pittsburg  to  St. 
Louis.  It  cost  the  Wabash  over  $50,000,000  to  build  its 
railroad  into  Pittsburg,  and  miles  of  solid  rock  had  to  be 

1 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 

cut  through  before  the  city  could  be  reached.  In  the  first 
20  miles  west  out  of  that  city  are  18  tunnels,  and  in  the 
first  60  miles  62  bridges  are  crossed  by  that  road. 

The  Wabash  Railroad  is  one  of  the  best  constructed 
and  most  ably  and  safely  conducted  railroads  in  the  whole 
country.  Its  equipment  of  cars  and  locomotives  are  of  the 
most  modern  style  and  first-class  in  all  respects.  The 
management  of  the  Wabash  is  wide-awake  and  progressive, 
and  that  system  is  destined  to  soon  become  one  of  the  most 
powerful  and  complete  organizations  in  the  country.  The 
editors  thoroughly  enjoyed  their  trip  over  the  Wabash  from 
Pittsburg  to  St.  Louis. 

The  editors  from  Maine  to  Florida,  and  from  the  Mid- 
dle West  and  all  other  parts  of  our  great  country,  with  their 
wives,  daughters  and  sweethearts,  made  their  rendezvous  at 
St.  Louis  on  June  5th  preparatory  to  making  a  wholesale 
"rush"  into  the  Territory.  Through  the  kindness  of  the 
Missouri,  Kansas  and  Texas  Railway  Company,  and  the 
especial  and  able  supervision  of  Mr.  George  Morton,  the 
General  Passenger  Agent,  and  Mr.  A.  C.  Miner,  the  Travel- 
ing Passenger  Agent,  the  editors  were  provided  two  hand- 
some and  perfectly  equipped  special  trains  to  transport  all 
the  editors  and  their  girls,  old  and  young,  to  Guthrie.  The 
name  of  the  railway  which  has  been  such  a  potent  factor  in 
developing  the  Southwest,  has  become  known  to  its  friends 
and  the  public  generally  as  the  "Katy,"  so  that  when  the 
scribes  first  heard  that  name  they  thought  some  little  girl 
was  being  discussed,  instead  of  a  full  grown  and  powerful 
railroad.  The  Missouri,  Kansas  and  Texas  Railway  has 
become  one  of  the  most  popular  highways  for  reaching 
Texas,  Old  Mexico,  California  and  the  Southwest  from  St. 

2 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 

Louis,  and  the  equipment  of  cars  and  fast  trains  is  first-class 
in  every  respect. 

The  two  special  trains  with  their  burden  of  brains,  wit 
and  beauty  left  the  Union  Depot,  St.  Louis,  at  one  o'clock 
Tuesday  afternoon,  June  6th,  for  Guthrie,  arriving  there 
shortly  after  noon  the  following  day.  The  majority  of  the 
delegates  had  never  been  in  the  "Woolly  West"  before,  and 
from  the  time  the  special  train  left  St.  Louis  the  trip  was 
full  of  interest  and  surprises  for  them.  They  opened  their 
eyes  in  wonder  when  they  saw  the  great  and  mighty  "Father 
of  Waters"  at  St.  Louis,  the  grand  Mississippi  River,  with  its 
torrents  sweeping  to  the  sea.  A  short  distance  West  of  St. 
Louis  the  Missouri,  Kansas  and  Texas  Railroad  crosses  the 
mighty  Missouri  River,  which  truly  deserves  its  name, 
"The  Big  Muddy  River,"  for  it  was  bank-full  of  the  yellow- 
est, muddy,  clayey  water  we  have  ever  seen.  The  river, 
it  is  said,  carries  acres  and  acres  of  land  from  the  north 
down  south  to  enrich  the  fields  lying  along  its  course  and 
the  course  of  the  Mississippi,  thus  truly  making  one  man's 
loss  another's  gain. 

The  railroad  followed  the  north  bank  of  the  Missouri 
River  unfolding  to  the  eastern  eyes  a  panorama  of  vast 
level  rich  and  fertile  fields  filled  with  corn,  wheat  and  po- 
tatoes— the  Nation's  food — such  as  we  had  never  dreamed. 
Yet  when  the  shadows  or  evening  began  to  fall  and  the 
boundaries  of  Kansas  were  reached  and  passed  the  traveler 
looked  out  upon  a  marvelous  sight  of  wheat  fields  and  corn 
rows  glistening  in  the  rays  of  the  setting  sun — vast,  big 
beyond  comprehension — apparently  stretching  in  one  un- 
broken line  from  horizon  to  horizon,  having  on  its  bosom 
more  than  enough  to  have  fed  all  of  Pharoh's  countless 

3 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 

armies.  The  rising  of  the  next  day's  sun  found  the  tourists 
speeding  through  the  rich  and  fertile  fields  of  the  Indian 
Territory,  which  "blossomed  as  a  rose,"  producing  all  kinds 
of  grains  and  fruits  in  the  richest  profusion.  A  few  hours 
later  the  party  had  passed  into  the  borders  of  its  bright  and 
beautiful  sister,  Oklahoma  Territory,  where  the  verdure  of 
the  fields  was  of  the  brightest  sempiternal  green,  and  the 
wheat,  in  all  its  golden  glory,  was  waiting  for  the  harvester 
to  shore  its  full  and  forceful  grains  to  build  up  the  bone  and 
sinew  of  the  nation.  The  vast  pastures  of  green  and  suc- 
culent grass  were  dotted  with  thousands  of  sleek,  fat  cat- 
tle, such  as  make  the  juicy  and  toothsome  porterhouse 
steaks,  and  none  of  Pharoh's  lean  and  hungry  kine  were  in 
those  herds.  The  cattle  of  both  the  Indian  and  Oklahoma 
Territories  are  already  famous  for  their  sleekness  and  fine 
beef:  They  are  most  sought  for  in  the  great  cattle  markets 
of  the  west.  The  large  herds  of  these  two  territories  are 
continually  augmented  by  fresh  herds  of  yearlings  and  two- 
year-olds,  which  are  brought  up  from  the  plains  of  Texas;  as 
many  as  100,000  a  year,  and  fattened  on  the  juicy  grasses 
of  the  valleys  of  these  two  territories.  Oklahoma  means 
"The  Land  of  the  Fair  God."  Truly  it  is  a  fair  land. 


CHAPTER  H. 

GUTHRIE — THE  CONVENTION   CITY. 

AT  the  city  of  Guthrie  the  editors  were  given  a  surprise 
of  what  western  hospitality  means.  Guthrie,  the  cap- 
tal  of  what  is  destined  to  be  one  of  the  greatest  and  wealth- 
iest states  of  the  West,  is  a  city  of  30,000  people,  but  did 
not  have  sufficient  hotel  accommodations  for  the  some  700 
people  in  the  editorial  party,  so  the  best  citizens  of  the 
city — the  merchants,  doctors,  lawyers,  bankers  and  preach- 
ers, with  graceful  and  spontaneous  generosity,  opened  their 
homes  and  took  the  editors  into  the  bosoms  of  their  families 
and  entertained  them  most  royally  during  the  convention. 
Many  pleasant  friendships  were  thus  formed  which  will  re- 
main through  the  rush  of  years  to  come. 

The  Guthrie  people  had  laid  their  plans  well  for  the  en- 
tertainment of  the  editors,  and  every  man,'  woman  and  child 
entered  with  their  whole  souls  into  the  work,  and  that  city 
of  30,000  provided  and  cared  for  all  the  wants  of  the  edi- 
torial writers  as  well  as  a  city  of  100,000  people  could  have 
done,  and  they  were  pardonably  proud  of  the  success  of 
their  efforts. 

The  city  of  Guthrie  is  a  wonderful  place;  a  phenome- 
non of  the  West.  The  history  of  its  birth  reads  like  a  page 
from  the  Arabian  Nights.  Sixteen  years  ago  the  green 
and  beautiful  hills  on  which  the  pretty,  prosperous,  pro- 
gressive and  populous  city  now  stands  were  entirely  unin- 

5 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 


CARNEGIE    LIBRARY,  GUTHRIE,   OKLAHOMA 

habited.  Suddenly,  as  if  Aladdin  had  breathed  upon  his 
magic  lamp,  there  was,  on  April  22d,  1889,  a  quick,  start- 
ling and  wonderful  change,  and  the  spot  became,  instantly, 
a  city  of  20,000  souls — not  the  beautiful,  well  regulated 
city  of  to-day — but  a  city  of  white  tents  and  board  shanties 
of  the  first  Oklahoma  "boomers." 

Those  people — men,  women  and  children,  white  and 
black  and  red,  Jew  and  Gentile,  Protestant  and  Catholic, 
non-believer  and  lover  of  all  men,  from  all  walks,  classes 
and  conditions  of  life,  came  from  all  parts  of  our  great 
nation  to  build  here  a  beautiful  city  and  found  a  mighty 
and  imperishable  State.  They  were  full  of  force,  power, 
vim,  vigor  and  virtue,  and  determined  to  build  such  a 
city  as  should  rank  with  the  best  in  the  land.  These 

6 


O 
C 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 

"boomers"  succeeded  far  beyond  their  most  sanguine  ex- 
pectations, and  to-day  Guthrie,  with  her  30,000  popula- 
tion, stands  forth  a  beautiful,  large,  important,  up-to-date, 
progressive  city;  a  lasting  monument  to  the  perseverance 
and  pluck  of  her  citizens,  which  excited  the  praise  and  ad- 
miration of  us  all.  We  prophesy  for  Guthrie  a  bright  and 
bailliant  future,  as  the  capital  of  the  new  State  of  Oklahoma, 
that  soon  is  to  be  a  bright  star  in  our  Nation's  constellation. 
Guthrie  is  beautifully  located  on  the  Cottonwood  River 
and  has  a  perfect  drainage  system.  The  public  buildings 
are  handsome  and  stately.  They  have  a  United  States 
Government  building  worth  $150,000,  a  Masonic  temple 
worth  $75,000,  a  City  Hall  worth  $50,000,  a  Carnegie  li- 
brary worth  $50,000,  a  $150,000  gas  plant,  a  $250,000 
electric  light  plant,  two  telephone  systems,  fine  business 
blocks  and  40  large  manufacturing  plants.  They  have  a 
perfect  water  system  costing  $150,000  and  an  excellent  fire 
department.  The  city  has  fine,  well  graded  streets,  and 
miles  of  them.  They  have  60  miles  of  fine  brick  and  ce- 
ment sidewalks.  They  have  fine  public  and  private  shools, 
having  about  $300,000  invested  in  their  school  properties. 
An  electric  street  railway  of  the  most  modern  kind  was 
completed  just  in  time  to  give  our  party  a  ride  about  the 
city.  .The  city  is  full  of  handsome  and  commodious  homes. 
That  the  city  is  prosperous  is  shown  by  the  fact  that  its 
four  banks  have  deposits  aggregating  the  tidy  sum  of  be- 
tween $2,000,000  and  $3,000,000.  The  future  of  Guthrie 
as  the  capital  and  a  commercial  metropolis  is  assured,  for 
the  competition  in  all  lines  is  already  made  possible  by  the 
fact  that  eight  railroads  center  in  the  city  and  another  line 
is  building.  The  people  are  peaceful,  orderly,  intelligent 

7 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 

and  have  the  religious  affairs  of  the  city  well  looked  after 
by  17  large  churches  of  all  denominations. 

The  sessions  of  the  20th  Annual  Convention  of  the 
National  Editorial  Association  were  held  in  the  Brooks 
Opera  House,  a  handsome  and  commodious  play  house 
which  would  do  credit  to  a  much  larger  city.  In  the  ab- 
sence of  Governor  Ferguson,  on  account  of  his  wife's  ill- 
ness, Delegate  Bird  S.  McGuire  extended  a  hearty  welcome 
on  the  part  of  Oklahoma  Territory  to  the  delegates.  Guth- 
rie's  welcome  address  to  the  Association  was  eloquently 
voiced  by  Mayor  John  W.  Duke,  while  later,  but  warm 
and  friendly,  came  the  greeting  of  Senator  O.  R.  Fegan. 
To  these  generous  warm  words  of  welcome  President  W. 
W.  Screws,  of  the  National  Editorial  Association,  made  a 
happy  and  eloquent  reply,  voicing  the  appreciation,  pleasure 
and  satisfaction  of  each  and  every  member  of  the  noble 
array  of  writers  at  being  in  Guthrie,  and  at  everything  being 
done  for  their  comfort  and  pleasure.  After  the  convention 
was  duly  opened  the  meetings  moved  along  like  well-oiled 
machinery.  A  large  amount  of  preliminary  business  and 
routine  was  speedily  put  through.  The  election  of  officers 
for  1905-06  was  a  harmonious  affair,  and  in  a  few  minutes 
the  following  officers  were  elected: 

President,  Hon.  John  Dymond,  New  Orleans;  First 
Vice  President,  John  E.  Junkin,  Sterling,  Kansas;  Second 
Vice  President,  H.  B.  Varner,  Lexington,  N.  C.;  Third 
Vice  President,  Leslie  G.  Niblack,  Guthrie;  Recording  Sec- 
retary, J.  W.  Cockrum,  Indiana;  Corresponding  Secretary, 
William  A.  Ashbrook,  Johnstown,  Ohio;  Treasurer,  Colonel 
J.  Irvin  Steel,  Ashland,  Pa. 

Before  finishing  up  the  business  of  the  convention  the 

8 


a 


o 


R 


i 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 

Association  passed  strong  resolutions  calling  upon  Congress 
to  admit  Oklahoma  and  Indian  Territories  as  one  joint 
state  into  the  fold  of  these  great  United  States  of  America. 
It  was  the  unanimous  opinion  of  the  delegates  that  the  last 
Congress  had  badly  treated  our  western  brethren,  and  that 
they  were  entitled  to  admission  in  all  respects;  that  they 
have  a  class  people  who  would  make  the  best  of  citizens,  as 
over  two-thirds  are  American  born.  The  Association  by  a 
unanimous  vote  selected  the  city  of  Indianapolis  as  the 
place  of  the  1906  convention,  the  invitation  thereto  having 
been  extended  by  Governor  J.  Frank  Hanly,  Mayor  John 
W.  Holtzman  and  Alfred  F.  Potts,  President  of  the  Indian- 
apolis Commercial  Club.  The  convention  after  passing 
heartfelt  resolutions  thanking  the  people  of  Guthrie  and 
every  one  who  had  aught  to  do  with  the  pleasure  of  their 
visit,  rose  in  a  body,  sang  that  grand  old  anthem,  America, 
and  stood  adjourned. 

The  people  of  Guthrie  surely  did  extend  the  glad  hand 
and  joyful  smile  to  the  fighters  of  the  pen.  They  made  the 
editors'  first  night  in  the  city  memorable  by  one  of  the  most 
elegant  and  enjoyable  receptions  and  dances  they  had  ever 
attended.  The  dance  was  given  in  the  city  hall,  which  was 
most  elaborately  decorated.  The  gowns  of  the  lady  patron- 
esses were  most  elaborate,  and  the  costumes  of  the  young 
lady  debutantees  were  most  beautiful  and  bewitching.  The 
boys  were  so  pleased  and  captivated  by  the  fair  ones,  that 
they  one  and  all  voted  the  dance  up  to  the  standard  of  the 
efete  East,  and  a  great  credit  to  the  "Wild  and  Woolly 
West."  Even  the  flower  bedecked  booth  was  present,  with 
the  pretty  and  bewitching  maidens  serving  brilliant  red 
punch  to  the  thirsty  lads.  Afternoon  teas  and  lawn  fetes 

9 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 

were  given  especially  for  the  pleasure  of  the  editorial  ladies, 
who  were  loud  in  their  appreciation  of  the  style  and  gener- 
osity with  which  they  were  treated  by  their  Western  sisters. 
The  Masonic  fraternity  is  very  strong,  and  has  much 
wealth  among  its  members  in  Guthrie.  The  Scottish  Rite 
Masons  have  one  of  the  finest  temples  of  that  order  in  the 
United  States,  it  having  been  erected  a  few  years  ago  at  a 
cost  of  $75,000.  The  Masons,  without  regard  to  creed  or 
style,  on  the  evening  of  June,  8th  tendered  a  reception  at 
their  temple  to  the  entire  National  Editorial  Association. 
The  evening  was  one  long  to  be  remembered,  every  feature 
being  a  decided  success.  The  address  of  welcome  was  a 
beautiful  and  masterful  effort,  and  was  delivered  by  the 
Grand  Potentate  of  Oklahoma  Territory,  Harper  S.  Cun- 
ningham. The  responses  were  made  for  the  Association 
by  President  W.  W.  Screws,  of  Montgomery,  Alabama, 
and  Joseph  B.  McCabe,  of  Boston.  The  reception  was 
closed  with  a  musicale,  which  would  have  done  credit  to 
musical  Boston,  in  which  the  ladies  of  Guthrie  sang  with 
great  culture  and  expression,  selections  from  the  Italian, 
French  and  German  masters.  When  not  engaged  in  the 
convention  the  delegates  and  their  ladies  were  treated  to 
One  round  of  pleasure  by  the  Guthrieites,  and  the  day  to 
leave  brought  much  regret  both  to  the  editors  and  to  the 
citizens  at  parting.  The  work  of  the  convention  being 
finished,  the  people  of  the  twin  Territories  planned  a  grand 
tour  for  their  editorial  guests  to  show  all  the  beauties, 
resources  and  possibilities  of  those  lands. 


10 


CHAPTER  III. 

OKLAHOMA — THE  LAND   OF  THE  FAIR  GOD — ITS 
BEAUTIES  AND  POSSIBILITIES. 

ON  Friday  night,  June  9th,  the  sleepy*  editors  were 
hustled  into  their  special  trains  and  started  on  their 
swing  around  the  circle,  to  see  and  be  seen,  feted,  wined 
and  dined.  Enid,  Oklahoma,  came  first  on  the  list  of  stops, 
and  it  seemed  that  every  one  of  its  5,000  people  had  turned 
out  to  do  the  editors  homage.  Here  a  big  reception  was 
held  in  the  opera  house,  which  was  followed  a  short  time 
after  by  a  banquet  in  the  rooms  of  the  local  lodge  of  Elks, 
who  are  famed  for  their  eating  and  social  qualities.  A 
short  time  after  leaving  Guthrie  a  sad  event  happened 
which  caused  a  feeling  of  sorrow  and  sympathy  to  touch  the 
hearts  of  all  the  editors.  Mr.  G.  T.  Wright,  an  aged  edi- 
tor from  Hinsdale,  Illinois,  who  was  accompanied  by  his 
wife  and  daughter,  was  suddenly,  while  talking  with  a  friend 
on  the  car  "Bolton,"  stricken  with  appolexy,  and  expired  in 
a  few  minutes.  The  body  was  taken  from  the  train  at  Enid, 
and  as  it  was  removed  the  entire  editorial  party  to  the  num- 
ber of  700  stood  outside  the  train  and  sang  that  grand  old 
hymn  of  Cardinal  Newman: 

Lead,  kindly  light!  amid  th'  encirling  gloom, 

Lead  Thou  me  on; 
The  night  is  dark,  and  I  am  far  from  home, 

Lead  Thou  me  on; 

11 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 

Keep  Thou  my  feet;  I  do  not  ask  to  see 
The  distant  scene;  one  step  enough  for  me, 

I  was  not  ever  thus,  nor  pray'd  that  Thou 

Shouldst  lead  me  on; 
I  loved  to  choose  and  see  my  path,  but  now 

Lead  Thou  me  on; 
I  loved  the  garish  day,  and  spite  of  fears, 

Pride  ruled  my  will. 
Remember  not  past  years. 

So  long  Thy  pow'r  has  bless'd  me,  sure  it  still 

Will  lead  me  on 
O'er  moor  and  fen,  o'er  crag  and  torrent,  till 

The  night  is  gone; 

And  with  the  morn  those  angel  faces  smile, 
Which  I  have  loved  long  since,  and  lost  awhile. 

That  large  band  of  sympathetic  mourners,  thus  feel- 
ingly intoning  that  beautiful  hymn  made  a  grand  and  truly 
impressive  sight,  and  one  long  to  be  remembered.  Mr. 
James  H.  Potts,  editor  of  The  Times,  Troy,  N.  Y.,  who  was 
the  poet  of  the  party,  was  a  passenger  on  the  car  "Bolton," 
in  which  Mr.  Wright  died,  and  being  much  impressed  by 
the  unfortunate  death,  composed  the  following  beautiful 
poem  in  commemoration  of  the  sad  event: 

"THE  LEADING  LIGHT." 

Did  ever  brighter  sunset  glow 

Than  on  that  Oklahoma  day? 

Shining  on  those  too  stunned  to  pray, 
Like  promise  of  the  rain  cloud's  bow. 

Passing  from  out  gloom's  darkening  fold, 
This  richly  burdened  ship  of  life, 
Whose  masts  spoke  victory  over  strife, 

Was  entering  the  gate  of  gold. 

12 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 

"Lead,  kindly  light!"     The  song  of  men 

Arose  in  honest  sympathy; 

The  beconing  sky  replied  to  me, 
"The  Sun  that  led  shall  lead  again." 

The  next  day  the  editors  passed  through  the  beautiful 
town  of  Snyder,  which  still  showed  the  baleful  effects  of  the 
destructive  cyclone  which  had  visited  that  section  a  few 
months  before,  sweeping  a  large  portion  of  the  town  off  the 
face  of  the  earth.  The  citizens,  nothing  daunted  by  the 
windy  visitor,  were  rapidly  repairing  the  damage  of  the 
storm.  The  trains  reached  the  thriving  and  progressive 
town  of  Lawton,  Oklahoma,  in  time  for  breakfast.  The 
citizens  of  this  town  were  bound  to  keep  up  the  reputation 
of  hospitality  which  had  been  set  at  a  high  pace  by  Guth- 
rie,  and  the  people  met  the  trains  with  their  carriages  and 
drove  the  editors  to  their  homes,  served  fine  breaakfsts  and 
entertained  them  most  handsomely.  Lawton  enjoys  the 
distinction  of  being  a  "government  town."  It  was  plotted 
and  laid  out  by  the  Engineer  Corps  of  the  United  States 
Army,  and  in  consequence  is  a  model  town.  The  streets 
are  broad  and  straight,  with  plenty  of  open  spaces  and 
parks,  and  the  lots  are  large  and  well  located.  The  United 
States  wisely  used  all  the  money  obtained  from  the  sale  of 
lots  in  fine  public  improvements,  giving  the  town  a  system 
of  streets,  water  works,  sewage  system,  school  houses  and 
public  buildings  second  to  none  in  the  Territory.  And  this 
was  all  done  without  the  citizens  contributing  one  cent  in 
taxes  for  the  erection  of  these  works  and  improvements. 

From  Lawton  the  trains  bearing  the  brains  of  the  Na- 
tion soon  passed  over  into  the  Indian  Territory,  where  a 
stop  was  made  about  noon  at  Chickasha,  the  chief  town  of 

13 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 


OVERHOLSER  OPERA  HOUSE,   OKLAHOMA  CITY. 

the  Chickasha  Indian  Nation.  Thirteen  years  ago  the 
town  site  was  a  blossoming  prairie,  but  to-day  it  is  a  bust- 
ling and  progressive  town  of  about  12,000  people,  with 
fine  buildings  and  numerous  successful  manufacturing 
plants.  On  the  arrival  of  the  trains  the  Indians  and  the 
whites,  with  a  big  brass  band,  which  for  noise  would  outdo 
our  own  Social  Band,  greeted  their  guests  and  marshalled 
them  into  line  up  the  street  to  a  big  pavilion  where  a  boun- 
teous luncheon  had  been  prepared.  The  viands  were  so 
good  and  so  inviting,  and  the  editors  feasted  with  such  gus- 
to that  it  looked  as  if  they  had  just  recovered  from  a  Dr. 
Tanner  fasting  feat.  Some  merry  wag  noticing  how 
able  the  editors  were  with  the  knife  and  fork  dubbed 
them  the  National  Eating  Association.  The  editors  being 

14 


> 

s 

c/3* 


§ 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 


PRIVATE  RESIDENCES,   OKLAHOMA   CITY,  OKLAHOMA. 

too  full  of  good  things  for   utterance,  took  no  offense  with 
the  liberty  taken  with  the  National  Editorial  Association. 

Late  that  same  afternoon  the  party  reached  Oklahoma 
City,  Oklahoma  Territory,  the  metropolitan  city  of  the 
Territory,  The  growth  of  this  city  has  been  so  rapid  that 
one  might  well  have  faith  in  the  ancient  fables,  and  believe 
that  some  genii  had  breathed  on  the  "wonderful  lamp"  and 
wished  that  a  city  be,  and  the  wish  was  realized.  For  no 
less  than  16  years  ago  the  city  of  Oklahoma  was  an  un- 
broken grassy  plain,  a  feeding  ground  for  droves  of  buffalo 
and  herds  of  antelope  pursued  by  the  wily  red  men.  But 
to-day — lo!  the  change — there  now  stands  the  most  flourish- 
ing, progressive  city  of  that  section,  with  a  population  ap- 
proximating 40,000  people,  with  public  buildings  of  the 

15 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 

first  class,  wide  asphalt  paved  streets,  water  works,  sewers 
gas  and  electric  light,  modern  schools,  137  wholesale  houses 
and  65  large  manufacturing  plants,  electric  street  railways 
and  nine  steam  railroads  bringing  the  commerce  of  the 
world  to  its  doors.  That  city  contributed  $3,500  to  enter- 
tain the  editors  and  the  entertaining  was  done  most  royally. 
A  reception  committee  of  the  representative  citizens  of 
Oklahoma  City  met  the  editors  at  the  railroad  station  and 
escorted  them  to  a  beautiful  park  where  a  fine  complemen- 
tary dinner  was  served.  From  the  park  the  party  adjourn- 
ed to  the  opera  house  where  bright,  happy  and  witty  speeches 
were  made  by  the  mayor  and  some  of  the  prominent  citi- 
zens, and  a  galaxy  of  the  editorial  brain  and  brawn  respon- 
ded in  the  best  style  of  after-dinner  speeches.  The  follow- 
ing morning  the  editorial  party  found  themselves  back  in 
Guthrie  in  readiness  for  one  of  the  greatest  events  of  the  trip. 


16 


CHAPTER  IV. 

THE  INDIAN   PAGEANT  AT  THE    101    RANCH, 

"  I  ^HERE  is  located  in  Oklahoma  Territory,  near  the  town 
J.  of  Bliss,  what  is  conceded  to  be  the  greatest  and  largest 
farm  in  the  world.  It  is  called  and  incorporated  the  "101 
Ranch,"  and  is  owned,  controlled  and  conducted  by  the 
Miller  Brothers — Joseph  Miller,  President,  age  37;  Zach  T. 
Miller,  25,  Treasurer,  and  George  L.  Miller,  23,  Secretary. 
The  ranch  was  founded  in  1871  by  George  Miller,  a  native 
of  Kentucky,  father  of  the  three  Miller  brothers,  the  present 
owners.  Some  pertinent  facts  about  this  greatest  farm  in 
existence  may  not  be  amiss.  It  contains  87,000  acres,  or 
540  homesteads,  a  homestead  embracing  160  acres.  It  is 
larger  than  some  European  principalities.  It  includes  in 
its  limits  parts  of  three  counties,  and  has  three  flourishing 
towns — Bliss,  White  Eagle  and  Red  Rock.  A  railroad 
runs  its  entire  length  and  it  is  watered  by  two  big  rivers 
and  inumerable  creeks.  The  Miller  Brothers  own  in  their 
own  right  10,000  acres  and  the  other  77,000  acres  are  leas- 
ed from  the  Indians,  embracing  the  Ponca  Indian  Reserva- 
tion, and  nearly  all  of  the  Otoe  and  Missouri  Tribes.  The 
ranch  has  its  own  telephone  plant  embracing  35  miles  of 
wire,  and  costing  $50,000.  There  are  11,000  trees  in  the 
apple  orchard.  The  ranch  fences  cost  $10,000.  The  op- 
erating expenses  are  $5,000  per  month.  The  crops  this 
year  will  consist  of  9,000  acres  of  wheat,  2,500  acres  of 

17 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 

corn,  500  acres  of  oats,  500  acres  of  alfalfa  and  12,000 
acres  of  melons.  The  melons  are  shipped  out  by  the  car 
loads,  and  are  the  finest  grown  in  the  west,  the  seed  alone 
is  worth  $2,50  an  ounce.  The  melon  patch  has  a  sign 
which  would  tickle  the  average  darkey  almost  to  death.  It 
is,  "$5  for  any  one  who  goes  through  this  patch  without 
taking  a  melon."  That  sign  goes,  and  any  one  crossing 
the  patch  may  eat  and  carry  home  all  the  melons  he  pleases. 
This  ranch  has  the  largest  buffalo  herd  in  the  world.  Ten 
thousand  tons  of  hay  are  cut  yearly.  It  requires  42  bind- 
ers to  harvest  the  wheat,  and  five  steam  threshers  to  thresh. 
Twenty  mowing  machines  gather  the  hay.  Five  steam 
gang  plows  furrow  the  land,  and  600  mules  and  350  cow 
ponies  are  used  as  beasts  of  burden.  Five  hundred  men 
are  employed,  and  15,000  head  of  cattle  roam  its  fertile 
pastures.  The  ranch  is  incorporated  at  $300,000,  but  no 
dividends  are  declared,  the  profits  being  put  back  in  the 
improvement  of  the  ranch. 

The  Miller  ranch  house  is  the  most  perfectly  appointed 
in  the  world,  from  the  kitchen  to  the  billiard  room  in  the 
attic,  and  many  of  the  most  distinguished  men  in  the  coun- 
try have  enjoyed  its  hospitality.  Any  visitor  who  comes 
to  the  ranch,  whether  invited  or  uninvited,  is  most  heartily 
welcomed,  and  treated  with  the  most  generous  hospitality. 
It  is  a  practical  lesson  in  big  things  to  see  that  great  ranch 
and  view  its  systematic  workings,  down  even  to  the  small- 
est details. 

The  Miller  Brothers  learning  that  the  National  Edi- 
torial Association  was  coming  to  Guthrie  in  June  to  hold 
its  annual  convention,  determined  to  do  their  share  in  en- 
tertaining the  visitors,  and  show  them  such  sights  impossi- 

18 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 

ble  for  them  to  see  in  the  staid  and  sober  east,  and  exhibit 
to  them  in  all  its  pristine  glory  western  life  on  the  plains  on 
a  big  ranch — the  Indian,  cow  boy  and  cow  girl  on  their 
native  heath. 

The  Miller  Brothers  called  their  ranch  101  from  the 
fact  that  the  branding  iron  used  by  their  father,  George 
Miller,  for  years  to  mark  his  horses  and  cattle,  was  made  up 
of  the  figures  101.  Having  determined  some  months  be- 
fore to  entertain  the  editors,  the  Miller  Brothers  made  the 
most  elaborate  preparations  for  such  an  exhibition  as  their 
eastern  visitors  never  saw  and  will  not  likely  see  again. 
Much  time,  labor  and  some  $12,000  were  spent  in  arrang- 
ing the  greatest  wild  west  show  ever  planned. 

June  llth  dawned  bright  and  clear,  and  the  editors 
and  their  friends  numbering  about  2,000  persons  were  soon 
taken  on  their  special  trains  to  Bliss,  the  Miller  10  1  Ranch 
station,  where  they  found  everything  in  readiness  for  their 
reception,  and  they  were  conducted  to  a  great  tent  out  on 
the  prairie,  where  a  real  buffalo  had  been  barbecued,  and 
here  each  one  was  served  with  a  light  lunch  and  buffalo 
sandwiches.  After  the  luncheon  the  editors  were  escorted 
to  the  specially  prepared  arena,  out  on  the  wide  prairie, 
where  they  found  an  amphitheatre  of  such  great  and  magnif- 
icent proportions  as  never  had  been  seen  by  Greeks  or  Ro- 
mans, or  by  the  great  Americans  before.  There,  out  on 
Nature's  own  tilting  field,  stretched  an  arena  one  and  one- 
fourth  miles  around,  eight  seats  deep  filled  with  humanity, 
and  in  front  of  those  seats  were  thousands  of  other  people 
standing,  who  had  come  to  see  the  great  show,  such  as 
neither  the  great  Barnum,  nor  the  famous  Buffalo  Bill  ever 
dreamed  of. 

19 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 

About  40  special  trains,  horses  and  carriages,  "prairie 
Schooners"  and  all  kinds  of  conveyances,  from  early  morn- 
ing, had  been  pouring  their  loads  of  humanity  out  on  the 
prairie,  until  the  time  of  opening  the  display,  it  was  vari- 
ously estimated  there  were  from  75,000  to  100,000  on  the 
grounds,  gathered  to  see  the  passing  pageant  of  the  "Wild 
and  Woolly  West."  Yet  the  order  of  this  great  crowd  was 
simply  marvelous.  Although  there  were  two  companies  of 
United  States  Infantry  on  hand  to  keep  order,  it  was  not 
found  necessary  to  make  a  single  arrest  for  a  breach  of  the 
peace.  The  managers  of  our  county  fairs  might  well  take 
lessons  from  the  management  of  that  show.  No  liquor  is 
sold  anywhere  in  the  Territories.  There  was  not  a  single 
gambling  device  on  the  grounds;  not  a  single  drop  of  liquor 
was  sold,  nor  was  there  single  drunken  man  in  all  that  vast 
assemblage.  Their  conduct  was  most  exemplary,  and  not 
a  single  thing  was  done  to  offend  the  sensibilities  of  the 
most  fastidious  person.  There  were  gathered  there  the 
ladies,  doctors,  lawyers,  laymen,  editors,  priests,  soldiers, 
ranchmen,  scouts,  cowboys,  farm  hands,  Indians,  Mexicans 
and  all  classes  and  conditions  of  humanity,  yet  all  were  jolly 
and  peaceful  and  on  pleasure  bent. 

The  show  was  participated  in  by  soldiers,  scouts, 
rough  riders,  cowboys  and  Indians.  Almost  300  cowboys 
and  500  Indians  took  an  active  part  in  the  pageant,  which 
might  well  be  called  the  passing  of  the  scout  and  the  disso- 
lution of  the  tribal  relations  of  the  Indians,  for  by  recent 
Act  of  Congress  the  Indians  of  Oklahoma  this  year  will  be 
allotted  individual  holdings  of  lands,  instead  of  holding 
lands  by  tribes,  as  heretofore. 

The  pageant  opened  at  1  o'clock    with   the  grand  pa- 

20 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 

ade  illustrative  of  the  progress  of  civilization.  At  the  head 
of  the  cavalcade  rode  the  three  Miller  Brothers,  seated  on 
milk  white  Arabian  horses,  then  followed  the  Indian  chiefs, 
braves  and  squaws  gaily  bedecked  in  bright  blankets,  beads, 
war  paint  and  feathers.  At  their  front  came  that  Apache 
chief,  Old  Geronimo,  the  most  desperate  and  bloodthirsty 
Indian  living  to-day.  The  old  Apache  is  a  United  States 
prisoner  of  war  at  Fort  Sill,  Indian  Territory.  By  permis- 
sion of  the  Secretary  of  War  he  was  allowed  to  attend  the 
celebration  under  a  strong  military  guard.  His  appear- 
ance was  greeted  by  cheers  by  many,  and  by  jeers  and 
hoots  from  a  few,  yet  the  old  villian  rode  his  horse  erect, 
undisturbed  and  apparently  unconscious  of  the  commotion 
he  was  creating.  As  he  came  along  the  ladies  were  no- 
ticed to  creep  a  little  closer  to  the  protecting  arms  of  their 
escorts.  Then  came  the  ancient  prairie-schooners,  each 
drawn  by  eight  oxen;  then  the  modern  farm  machinery  and 
a  steam  engine  drawing  16  plows;  then  followed  the  auto- 
mobiles, while  12  bands  were  scattered  through  the  parade 
playing  martial  music.  An  emigrant  train,  such  as  crossed 
the  plains  in  advance  of  the  days  of  railroads,  drew  up  the 
rear.  In  the  procession  also,  on  their  gallant  steeds,  rode 
four  of  the  Mullhall  family — father,  mother,  son  and  daugh- 
ter— said  to  be  four  of  the  most  daring  and  accomplished 
riders  in  the  world. 

Following  the  parade  came  the  buffalo  hunt,  with  wild 
and  fierce  animals  chased  by  the  Indians,  with  all  their  sav- 
age and  wild  recklessness  of  the  forest.  After  which  the 
Indians  gave  such  an  exhibition  of  games  and  war  dances 
as  never  before  were  witnessed  by  pale-faces — who  lived  to 
tell  the  tale.  The  Mullhalls  gave  exhibitions  of  their  truly 

21 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 

wonderful  skill  in  all  kinds  of  fancy  horse-back  riding.  The 
cowboys  being  on  their  mettle,  showed  their  dexterity  in 
subdueing  the  wild,  bucking  bronco,  and  their  ability  in 
throwing  the  lasso,  every  time  bringing  the  steer  to  the 
ground.  The  negro  Sampson  "Pickett"  showed  his  prow- 
ess over  a  great  steer  by  throwing  him  in  a  wrestling 
match.  "Pickett"  also  showed  his  strong  jaws  by  suddenly 
catching  a  big  steer  by  the  nose  with  his  teeth  and  by  a 
great  effort  throwing  it  prostrate  to  the  ground.  After  this 
there  were  sham  battles  between  the  Indians,  scouts  and 
cowboys,  which  put  to  shame  any  of  the  Buffalo  Bill  efforts 
ever  attempted  in  that  line.  One  of  the  most  realistic 
events  of  the  day  was  the  attacking  of  the  emigrant  train 
by  the  Indians  and  their  subsequent  burning  of  the  wagons. 
It  all  looked  so  devilish,  real  and  wicked  that  many  of  the 
spectators  had  trouble  to  convince  themselves  that  it  was 
only  a  show.  The  people  rose — the  show,  the  greatest  of 
them  all,  was  over — and  such  as  shall  never  be  seen  again 
under  the  same  circumstances.  Every  one  left  the  prairie 
thanking  the  Miller  Brothers,  and  praising  them  for  the 
magnitude  of  their  exhibition,  and  the  orderly  and  decent 
manner  in  which  everything  was  conducted.  At  the  con- 
clusion of  the  101  Ranch  celebration  the  special  trains  re- 
turned to  Guthrie  to  permit  the  editors  to  make  preparations 
for  continuing  their  tour,  and  the  trains  left  that  city  about 
midnight  the  same  night. 


22 


CHAPTER  V. 


THE  INDIAN  TERRITORY — WHERE    THE   NOBLE    REDMEN 
ROYALLY    ENTERTAIN  THE   PALE-FACE. 

THE  first  stop,  of  any  length,  after  leaving  Guthrie  was 
made  at  Cleveland,  Oklahoma.     Here  is   one   of   the 
largest  and  best  oil  producing  districts  in  the  West,  and  the 
high  oil  derricks  were  seen  on  all  sides,  marring  the  beauty 


of  the  country, 
met  at  the  sta 
band,  a  commit 
escorted  to  the 
a  fine  complimen 
was  served.  La 
of  the  place  were 
special  delight  of 
did  not  "know," 
"shot."  Oil  was 
July  2d,  1903, 
are  over  200  oil 
and  gas  wells, 
000,000  feet  of 
town  looks  much 


SHOOTING  THE  OIL 
WELL. 


The  editors  were 
tion  by  a  brass 
tee  of  citizens  and 
best  hotel,  where 
tary  breakfast 
ter  all  the  sights 
seen,  and  for  the 
the  editors,  who 
an  oil  well  was 
Erst  found  there 
and  to-day  there 
producing  wells 
which  flow  100,- 
gas  daily.  The 


like  a  Pennsyl- 
vania oil  town,  and  now  has  a  population  of  about  4,000, 
and  as  yet  the  Standard  Oil  Company  octopus  has  not  suc- 
ceeded in  getting  a  foothold  in  the  field. 

From  Cleveland   the  travelers   hastened  to  Tulsa,  In- 

23 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 

dian  Territory,  where  the  whites  and  Indians  were  waiting 
to  entertain  them.  The  Tulsaites  having  heard  of  the 
capacities  of  the  editors,  wisely  had  their  feast  prepared  and 
the  tables  spread  before  the  editors  arrived,  so  no  time  was 
lost  on  the  arrival  of  the  trains  in  using  their  carriages  to 
convey  their  guests  to  a  fine  new  hotel,  where  an  excellent 
banquet  was  served,  and  a  fine  orchestra  played  sweet 
music  while  they  ate.  After  the  luncheon  the  carriages 
were  re-entered  and  all  the  sights  of  that  hustling  and 
booming  city  were  seen  and  admired. 

From  Tulsa  the  editors  rode  into  Muskogee,  the  lar- 
gest town  in  the  Indian  Territory.  This  13-year-old  city 
of  the  red-skins  was  a  wonderful  example  of  whirlwind-like 
growth.  Here,  where  a  few  years  ago  was  not  a  single 
wigwam,  to-day  dwell  over  15,000  hustling  and  progressive 
citizens.  They  have  wide  paved  streets,  fine  water  works, 
electric  light  plants,  trolley  lines  and  fine  public  buildings. 
The  private  homes  of  the  people  run  anywhere  from  $1,000 
to  $60,000  in  value,  while  a  $250,000  fire  proof  hotel, 
with  all  the  modern  conveniences — with  a  bath  for  each 
room,  and  almost  equals  in  accommodations  the  famous 
Walton  and  also  the  Belle vue-Stratford,  of  Philadelphia,  in 
its  appointments — is  there  to  cater  to  the  most  exacting 
traveler.  And  the  strange  part  of  the  matter  is  that  not  a 
single  drop  of  liquor  is  sold  in  this  large  hotel;  yet  every- 
thing is  of  the  best,  and  the  proprietor  is  making  money. 
Who  after  this  will  say  that  a  hotel  cannot  be  run  without 
a  license  to  sell  liquor? 

The  land  in  both  the  Indian  and  Oklahoma  Territories 
is  so  fertile  that  it  will  actually  raise  anything  that  is  planted. 
The  subsoil  is  a  yellow,  sandy  loam  extending  down  21 

24 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 

feet  to  water,  and  there  is  a  top  dressing  of  five  or  six  feet 
of  dark  red  loam,  which  simply  beats  the  world  when  it 
comes  to  producing  good  results  from  the  seed  entrusted  to 
it.  It  is  astonishing  what  abundant  crops  of  wheat,  corn, 
cotton,  oats,  potatoes  and  alfalfa  (hay)  those  prairie  fields 
will  raise.  It  is  not  an  unusual  thing  for  the  farmers  there 
to  raise  from  125  to  200  bushels  of  potatoes  to  the  acre, 
and  to  annually  clear  from  $40  to  $50  per  acre  on  alfalfa^ 
while  the  cotton  yield  runs  from  a  bale  (550  pounds)  to  a 
to  a  bale  and  a  half  per  acre.  Apples,  peaches,  pears  and 
grapes  are  successfully  and  profitably  cultivated,  and  all 
crops  of  the  temperate  zone  thrive  there. 

If  it  were  not  for  the  occasional  drouths  and  cyclones 
and  "twisters"  which  make  life  occasionally  miserable,  there 
would  be  no  better  place  in  the  world  for  the  farmer  than 
out  in  those  two  Territories.  The  wise  man  there  in  pro- 
viding for  safety  against  the  cyclone,  has  dug  himself  an 
underground  cellar,  and  at  the  first  sign  of  danger  he  and 
his  family  flee  to  the  "hole  in  the  ground." 

In  the  matter  of  population,  wealth  and  development, 
both  of  these  Territories  are  well  equipped  and  ready  for 
statehood,  and  they  will  get  in.  As.  Hon.  R.  L.  Lunsford 
said:  "We  hold  the  winning  hand,  and  will  butt  into  the 
Union."  Four  kings — corn,  coal,  cotton  and  cattle,  and 
also  the  ace,  oil.  We  wish  them  God  speed,  and  sincerely 
hope  that  the  next  session  of  Congress  will  do  these  broth- 
ers'justice,  and  make  them  the  46th  State — "Oklahoma." 

The  editors  departed  from  these  Territories  feeling 
deeply  grateful  for  the  royal  entertainment  they  had  been 
given  in  all  the  towns  in  which  they  had  stopped,  and  fully 
appreciating  the  generous  hospitality  that  had  been  accord- 

25 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 

ed  them — such  as  the  National  Editorial  Association  had 
never  received  before.  Long  will  the  people  of  Oklahoma 
and  the  Indian  Territories  have  a  green  spot  in  the  editorial 
heart. 


THE  FLOURING  MILLS,  OKLAHOMA    CITY,   OKLAHOMA. 


26 


CHAPTER  VI. 

THE  LONE-STAR   STATE — TEXAS  A   MIGHTY    EMPIRE. 

SHORTLY  before  leaving  Guthrie  on  their  return  tour 
the  Texas  delegation  had  pinned  on  each  manly  editor- 
ial breast  a  bright  badge  with  the  following  motto: 

All  aboard  for  Texas.  1500  miles  in  Texas. 
Every  minute  you  spend  in  Texas  you  will  be  the 
guests  of  the  Texas  delegation. 

1500  miles  through  Texas — that  expression,  which 
meant  a  trip  longer  than  from  New  York  to  Chicago  and 
half  way  back  again,  gave  most  of  the  editors  their  first 
impression  of  the  greatness  and  immensity  of  that  empire 
State  of  Texas.  But  few  people  outside  of  the  confines  of 
the  Lone  Star  State  have  but  the  slightest  conception  of  its 
size  and  extent.  A  brief  outline  of  the  facts  will  help  the 
reader  to  realize  in  part  what  a  vast  empire  it  is.  As  it 
has  been  well  said: 

Texas  is  the  great  keystone  that  supports  the  cen- 
tral arch  of  the  United  States. 

For  400  miles  it  borders  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  and  for 
800  miles  rests  against  the  Rio  Grande  River.  Extending 
from  the  26th  to  the  36th  parallel  of  latitude  and  from  the 
94th  to  the  107th  meridian  of  longitude,  it  embraces  an 
area  of  265,280  square  miles.  Bare  figures  convey  but  a 
meagre  idea  of  distance  or  space.  It  is  only  by  compari- 

27 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 

son  that  we  get  an  idea  of  the  relative  importance  of  things. 
Texas  is  an  empire  in  itself.  Compared  with  European 
territory  Texas  is  twice  the  size  of  England,  Ireland, 
Scotland  and  Wales;  a  fourth  larger  than  Germany,  and 
equal  in  area  to  France,  Holland,  Belgium,  Switzerland 
and  Denmark.  Compared  with  other  States  in  the  Union, 
it  is  larger  than  Georgia,  Florida,  Alabama,  Mississippi 
and  Louisiana  combined.  Michigan,  Indiana,  Illinois, 
Wisconsin  and  Iowa  could  be  dropped  within  her  territory 
and  still  leave  enough  unoccupied  space  to  make  several 
states  of  the  New  England  type.  It  is  larger  than  the 
whole  of  New  England  with  New  York,  New  Jersey,  Mary- 
land, West  Virginia,  Pennsylvania  and  Ohio  added. 
Across  the  State  from  Texarkana  to  El  Paso  is  further  than 
from  Chicago  to  New  York,  and  from  Texline  to  Browns- 
ville is  as  far  as  from  Chicago  to  New  Orleans.  When 
Texas  is  as  densely  populated  as  New  England  it  will 
support  a  population  of  73,142,000.  The  entire  population 
of  the  United  States  could  be  put  down  in  Texas  and  yet 
there  would  be  no  crowding  and  plenty  of  elbow  room. 

Texas  is  well  adapted  for  an  agricultural  State.  Its 
soil  is  both  rich  and  varied,  indeed.  Land  can  be  bought 
from  $1  per  acre  up  to  most  any  price;  according  to  state 
of  cultivation.  It  will  grow  in  abundance  wheat,  corn,  oats, 
cotton,  rice,  sugar  cane,  potatoes  and  juicy  melons.  All 
kinds  of  fruit  will  grow  there  from  apples  to  figs,  and  large 
orchards  of  oranges  and  lemons  are  now  being  successfully 
cultivated.  As  a  cotton  producing  State  Texas  ranks  first,, 
producing  one-third  of  the  entire  crop  of  the  world.  The 
annual  crop  and  its  by  products  run  in  value  from  $155,- 
000,000  to  $175,000,000. 

28 


w 

w 

S 
w 

XI 

9 

2 

x 

W 

w 

^ 

1 

^ 

w 


0 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 

The  State  has  rich  deposits  of  iron  ore,  coal,  marble 
and  granite.  The  greatest  and  most  phenomenal  oil  fields 
in  the  world  are  located  in  south  eastern  Texas,  near  Beau- 
mont. In  live  stcck — cows,  steers,  sheep,  goats,  horses 
and  hogs  the  ranches  of  Texas  stand  in  front  rank  as  to 
quality  and  production.  There  are  some  of  the  largest 
meat  packing  houses  in  the  world  located  in  Texas;  among 
which  are  represented  the  Armours,  Swifts,  Cudays  and 
others.  Texas  has  a  large  timber  area  on  which  grow  oak, 
gum,  beach,  ash,  elm,  pine,  magnolia  and  other  less  well 
known  woods.  Texas  has  one  of  the  best  and  absolutely 
the  wealthiest  school  system  in  the  world.  The  State  has 
set  apart  to  the  common  school  fund,  all  told,  about  38,- 
000,000  acres  of  land.  Of  this  there  are  22,000,000  acres 
remaining.  The  value  of  the  land,  in  connection  with  the 
accumulated  fund,  amount  to  $40,000,000.  The  State 
has  also  a  very  rich  and  flourishing  State  University,  locat- 
ed at  Austin.  Separate  schools  are  maintained  all  over 
the  State  for  the  white  and  the  colored  children. 

It  is  stated  that  the  State  of  Texas,  to-day,  offers  bet- 
ter opportunities  for  investment  of  capital  and  labor  in  the 
ordinary  lines  of  enterprise,  either  agricultural,  industrial  or 
commercial  than  any  other  portion  of  North  America.  And 
then  Texas  is  run  on  the  principle  of  taking  care  of  the 
people,  they  having  most  stringent  anti-trust  laws,  as  the 
Standard  Oil  Company  and  kindred  monopolies  have  learn- 
ed to  their  sorrow  and  cost. 

The  great  State  of  Texas  is  overwhelmingly  Demo- 
cratic, and  although  the  old  saw  that  "Corn  makes  whiskey 
and  whiskey  makes  Democrats,"  is  still  heard  in  the  land, 
yet  the  signs  oi  the  times  are  that  Texas  will  soon  be  a 

29 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 

prohibition  State,  so  far  as  the  indiscriminate  sale  of  liquor 
is  concerned.  Many  a  northerner  could  take  needed  les- 
sons in  many  particulars  from  Texas. 


TERMINAL  BUILDING,  DALLAS, 
TEXAS. 


30 


CHAPTER  VII. 

DALLAS,  HOUSTON,   GALVESTON — THE   COMMERCIAL 
CENTERS. 

IN  consequence  of  the  big  "blow"  they  had  heard  from 
their  Texan  brethren  the  editors  were  anxious  to  see  the 
plains  of  Texas  and  taste  of  Texan  hospitality.  The  edi- 
torial special  left  Muskogee  about  midnight  and  reached 
Dallas  at  noon  the  next  day  (June  13.)  The  run  down  to 
Dallas  was  made  through  a  rich  farming  section,  but  some 
of  the  northern  editors  were  disappointed  because  those 
those  did  not  have  the  fine  and  substantial  farm  houses  of 
the  Pennsylvania  farmer.  They  had  not  become  accustom- 
ed to  the  habit  of  that  country  of  one-story  farm  houses,  with 
small  barns,  for  all  grain  is  threshed  in  the  fields  as  har- 
vested. When  the  editors  looked  on  the  rich  fields  and 
heavy  crops  they  realized  that  they  were  in  truth  in  the 
"garden  spot  of  Texas." 

The  Texans  are  pushers,  and  as  soon  as  the  train 
arrived  in  Dallas  the  pencil  pushers  were  met  by  the  re- 
ception committee  and  taken  to  the  waiting  special  trolley 
cars.  The  editors  were  given  a  trolley  ride  over  the  entire 
city,  and  the  fine  city  hall,  magnificent  court  house,  St. 
Paul's  Sanitarium,  Dallas  Public  Library,  Commercial  Club 
building,  fine  hotels  and  business  blocks  and  private  resi- 
dences were  in  turn  pointed  out,  described,  and  viewed. 

After  the  sight-seeing  car  ride  was  finished  the  visitors 

31 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 


were  taken  to  the  large  and  finely  appointed  State  fair 
grounds,  just  outside  the  city  limits.  Here  a  dainty  and 
bountiful  luncheon  was  served  the  hungry  and  weary  tour- 
ists, who  discussed 
all  the  good  things 
with  the  utmost  rel- 
ish. From  the  b  an- 
queting  pavilion  the 
party  adjourned  to 
the  large  auditorium 
where  the  speech- 
making  feature  of 
the  program  was 
pleasantly  exempli- 
fied. The  address 
of  welc  o  m  e  was 
made  by  Mayor 
Barry,  followed  by 
Editor  W.  G.  Ster- 
ritt,  who  in  a  witty 
and  entertaining 
speech  told  his  nor- 
thern brethren  how 
glad  he  was  to  have 
them  come  and  see 
their  city  and  then 
to  go  home  again 
THE  IMPERIAL  HOTEL  DALLAS,  and  sing  its  praises. 

TEXAS-  On    behalf    of    the 

visitors  Addison    B.  Burk,  Esq.,  of  Philadelphia,  made  an 
eloquent  response.     In  the  evening  the  local  lodge  of  B.  P. 

32 


0 


o 
as 


H 

tJ 

R 

•f»B    '-.N 

> 

w     m 

s 

wia 


jas'jgr 

^••Hl 

• 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 


O.  Elks  held  a  reception  for  our  party  in  their  handsome 
rooms.  The  Elk  building  covers  an  entire  square  and  is 
said  to  be  one  of  the  finest  temples  of  that  order  in  the 
United  States. 

Dallas  is  one  of  the  wealthiest  and  most  important 
manufacturing  commercial  cities  in  the  southwest.  It  has 
at  present  a  population  of  about  82,000,  and  its  energetic 

citizens  have 
formed  a  club 
whose  sole  pur- 
pose is  to  boom 
the  city  and  en- 
deavor to  swell 
the  population 
to  150,000  be- 
fore ninet  e  e  n  - 
ten.  They  say 
they  will  do  it 
sure.  The  city 
has  fine  trans- 
portation facili- 
ties, having  8 
different  railway 
lines,  with  84 
trains  arriving 
and  departing  daily.  It  has  62  newspapers  and  periodicals, 
of  which  The  News  is  the  leading  morning  paper  and  The 
Times-Hearld  the  most  influential  evening  paper. 

Late  that  night  the  editorial  trains  left  for  Houston, 
where  they  arrived  in  time  for  breakfast  next  morning. 
After  breakfast  the  party  was  taken  in  charge  by  a  com- 

33 


THE  ELKS7  CLUB,  DALLAS,  TEXAS. 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 

mittee  of  the  Houston  Chamber  of  Commerce,  and  in  special 
trolley  cars  guided  the  visitors  through  all  the  interesting 
parts  of  that  thriving  commercial  city  of  75,000  people. 
The  activity  and  bustle  of  the  city  impressed  the  editors 


THE  FIRST  NATIONAL  BANK,  HUSTON,  TEXAS. 

very  favorably  and  told  louder  than  words  of  the  immense 
volume  of  business  done  in  that  city.  More  cotton  is 
handled  in  Houston  than  any  other  city  in  the  South,  and 

34 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 

the  cotton   compresses  were  seen   by   the  editors  and  they 
viewed  with  interest  all  the  various  processes  at  the  cotton 


THE  FIRST  PRESBYTERIAN  CHURCH,  HOUSTON,  TEXAS. 
seed  mills — where  from   the  fuzzy  cotton    seed  was  taken 

35 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 

cotton  batting,  cotton  seed  oil  extracted  ancj  refined,  so  that 
it  looked  like  the  finest  olive  oil,  and  said  to  be  often  sold 
as  such  in  the  North,  and  the  residue  of  the  seeds  was 
pressed  into  cakes  for  cattle  feed  and  sold  at  $12  a  ton. 

After  the  trolley  rides  the  party  was  taken  to  a  mag- 
nolia grove,  outside  of  the  city  limits  and  served  with  an 
elaborate  banquet,  at  which  the  freedom  of  the  city  was 
extended  to  the  pen  fighters  by  Judge  McKittridge,  of  the 
County  Court,  in  a  witty  speech.  Among  other  things  the 
Judge  said  was  that  Texas  never  had  a  defaulting  State 
officer,  and  that  their  State  was  free  from  boss  rule.  The 
Judge  seeing  so  many  ladies  in  the  crowd,  made  himself 
solid  with  them  by  explaining  that  they  had  a  law  in  force 
in  Texas  which  gave  the  wives  half  of  their  husband's 
property  absolutely,  with  power  to  dispose  of  the  same  by 
will.  This  made  some  of  the  women  want  to  move  to 
Texas  at  once. 

The  reply  on  behalf  of  the  editors  was  made  by  Addi- 
son  B.  Burk,  Esq.,  of  Philadelphia,  who  said  that  he  might 
as  well  admit  that  he  came  from  the  State  of  Pennsylvania, 
which  was  completely  in  the  hands  of  the  bosses,  and  he 
was  glad  to  congratulate  the  Texans  on  their  freedom  and 
generous  hospitality.  A  large  number  of  the  scribes  took 
advantage  of  the  stop  in  Houston  to  run  over  to  Galveston, 
which  was  only  50  miles  away. 

The  editors  expected  to  find  many  signs  of  the  great 
flood  in  Galveston,  but  they  were  agreeably  disappointed. 
They  found  that  the  beautiful  city  had  risen  rejuvena- 
ted from  the  waves.  Everywhere  were  seen  signs  of  re- 
newed activity  and  progress,  and  on  the  beach  was  observ- 
ed the  towering  sea  wall,  with  its  mighty  granite  front, 

36 


•J-J 


1 

H 

•— i 

> 


§ 

I 

Q 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 


erected   by  the  United  States   Government  at  an  expendi- 
ture of  $50,000,000,  to  keep  the  majestic  waves  from  again 


o 
H 


devastating  the  city.     The  new   Galveston  has  risen   like 
a  sprite  from  the  waves,  and  will  be  more  substantial,  great- 

37 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 

er  and  mere  powerful  than  of  old;  and  will  be  a  shining 
beauty  spot  of  the  gulf  coast,  and  a  sea  port  of  which  the 
whole  country  will  be  proud.  Galveston  is  more  prosper- 
ous than  she  was  before  the  gigantic  tidal  wave  on  Septem- 
ber 8th,  1900,  swept  out  of  existence  thousands  of  her 
people  and  destroyed  million  of  dollars  worth  of  her  prop- 
erty. The  city,  with  its  deep  harbor,  extensive  wharves, 
great  commerce  and  lines  of  shipping  sailing  to  all  parts  of 
the  world,  'is  destined  to  soon  become,  and  remain,  the 
greatest  seaport  of  the  Southwest.  Galveston  has  become 
a  great  pleasure  resort  in  both  winter  and  summer.  Her 
bathing  beach  is  the  finest  in  the  South,  and  the  waters  of 
the  Galveston  Bay  abound  with  tarpon,  pompano,  mackerel 
and  all  kinds  of  sea  food  fish.  The  angler  can  have  more 
spcrt  and  make  larger  catches  of  fish  than  the  immortal  Sir 
Isaac  Waltcn  ever  saw  in  his  wildest  dreams.  Galveston 
has  some  of  the  largest  fisheries  in  the  world.  Large  fleets 
cf  fishing  boats  are  maintained,  which  are  sent  far  out  into 
the  gulf  for  food  fish,  and  come  in  heavily  laden  with  deli- 
cious fish,  which  are  shipped  North  by  the  car  loads. 
While  we  were  there  a  fleet  of  four  boats  came  in  having  on 
board  a  total  of  over  one  hundred  tens  of  "red  snapper,"  a 
delicate  and  toothsome  fish  found  in  great  numbers  in  the 
Gulf  of  Mexico.  It  was  intimated  to  us  that  many  of  the 
red  snappers,  whose  flesh  is  a  beautiful  pink,  are  packed  in 
cans  and  sold  and  eaten  in  the  North  for  high  grade  salmon. 
It  is  a  fine  table  fish,  whether  it  be. sold  under  its  own  name 
or  by  another  name. 

Galveston  is  the  greatest  cotton  exporting  port  in  the 
South,  and  in  one  of  the  mammoth  cotton  ware  houses  there 
we  were  shown  $5,000,000  worth  of  cotton  awaiting  ship- 

38 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAP.  WEST. 


ment  to  England  to  be  manufactured  into  cotton  goods  and 
returned  to  our  country  to   be  fashioned  into  fleecy  gowrs 


8 


1 

1 


C/2 


for  our  gay  :summer  girls." 

The  cotton  comes  to  the  v/areho^ze  in   loose,,  immense 

59 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 

bales  weighing  550  pounds,  and  then  it  is  placed  in  the 
compress  and  squeezed  down  to  one-third  the  size,  thus  a 
ship  can  carry  a  three  times  greater  cargo  of  cotton  than  it 
could  if  the  cotton  had  not  had  that  bear-like  hug. 

The  great  sea  wall,  a  mighty  feat  of  engineering,  is 
over  four  miles  long,  sixteen  feet  wide  at  the  base,  five  feet 
wide  at  the  top  and  seventeen  feet  high  above  low  tide. 
The  foundation  of  the  wall  rests  upon  four  rows  of  round 
piling  twelve  inches  in  diameter  and  driven  four  feet  apart 
into  the  ground  forty-four  feet  down  into  the  solid  clay. 
The  outside  of  the  wall,  next  the  sea,  is  fortified,  or  rein- 
forced by  immense  blocks  of  granite  weighing  a  ton  and 
more  apiece.  The  beach  outside  of  this  wall  was  crowded 
with  gay  bathers  when  we  were  there,  and  some  of  our  gay 
boys  invested  a  quarter  in  an  abreviated  bathing  suit,  and 
sported  in  the  waves  for  a  while,  making  goo-goo-eyes  at 
the  Galveston  "buds." 

The  wide  streets,  green  lawns,  beautiful  flowers  and 
handsome  homes  of  Galveston  excited  the  admiration  of  us 
all.  Galveston  is  called  "The  Oleander  City,"  for  all  its 
residence  streets  are  lined  with  beautiful  oleander  trees  from 
ten  to  twenty  feet  high,  covered  with  bright  and  fragrant 
blooms. 

The  city  of  Galveston  is  situated  on  an  island  at  the 
western  edge  of  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  and  has  the  advantages 
of  a  main-land  town  as  well  as  those  of  a  sea  coast  resort. 
Like  many  another  Texas  town  Galveston  owes  its  discov- 
ery and  foundation  to  the  proud  Castillian.  In  the  year 
1782  a  Spanish  fleet  exploring  the  Gulf  of  Mexico  discov- 
ed  this  island  and  named  the  Galveston  Bay  and  the  island 
in  honor  of  Ell  Exmo  Senor  Conde  De  Galvez,  who  was 

40 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 

then  the  Spanish  Governor  of  the  Province  of  Louisiana.  It 
is  a  matter  of  history  that  in  1810,  and  for  a  number  of 
years  thereafter,  the  notorious  pirate  Lafitte  and  his  desper- 
ate band  of  buccaneers  made  their  headquarters  there  while 
they  ravaged  the  shipping  plying  in  those  waters.  Some 
years  later  the  island  fell  under  the  control  and  rule  of  the 
Empire  of  Mexico.  The  following  bit  of  poetry  tells  of 
Galveston's  attractions: 

"Gem  of  Mexico's  Gulf — northern  shores, 
A  city  after  noble  Galvez  named; 

Lovely  scenes  greet  the  eye,  at  its  door; 
Varied  from  bright,  to  lesser  retained— 

Evenings  are  enchantment  of  the  mind- 
Sunset  o'er  the  sea,  bright  as  maiden's  cheek; 

Transfuse  life  and  joy  of  purest  kind, 

Only  to  give  rest,  where  heart  pleasure  seeks 

No  check — the  health-giving  Beach  to  find." 

The  social  life  of  the  city  is  very  attractive  and  most 
of  the  exclusive  affairs  are  given  under  the  patronage  of 
the  Company  of  Honorable  Ancient  Artillery,  which  is  a 
hundred  years  or  so  old.  The  public  buildings,  the  court 
house,  custom  house,  Cotton  Exchange,  Sealey  Hospital, 
St.  Mary's  Hospital,  Rosenburg  Library,  Medical  College, 
Scottish  Rite  Cathedral  and  churches  are  all  fine  and  stately 
buildings  and  the  business  blocks  are  fine  examples  of  their 
kind. 

The  city  affords  fine  openings  in  all  lines  of  business, 
which  will  be  rapidly  absorbed.  The  United  States  Gov- 
ernment, with  engineer  officers  in  charge,  is  engaged  in 
work  on  the  harbor  and  fortifications,  which  will  make  Gal- 
veston  one  of  the  best  and  most  completely  guarded  har- 
bors in  the  world,  and  no  foreign  fleet  would  be  able  to  safely 

41 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 


enter  that  stronghold.     The  city  has  three  beautiful  parks — 
Sherman    Park,  Central    Park    and  West   End  Park.     A 


1 

ES 

3 

g 

H 

i 


magnificent  driveway  has  been  planned  and  is  now  in  course 
of  construction  inside  the  sea  wall  and  encircling   the  city, 

42 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 

The  level  of  the  city  is  being  raised  from  five  to  ten  feet 
in  places  by  sand  pumped  from  the  Bay  and  distributed 
by  dydraulic  system,  which  is  perfect  and  wonderful. 

Having  viewed  all  the  wonderful    sights  of   Galveston 
our  party  returned  to  Houston. 


CONCEPCION   MISSION,  SAN 
ANTONIO,  TEXAS. 


43 


CHAPTER  VIIL 

SAN  ANTONIO — THE  VENICE  OF  AMERICA — THE  ALAMO — 
THE  MISSIONS. 

HAVING  arrived  at  Houston,  our  party  visited  a  num- 
ber of  places  of  interest,  sought  out  their  friends,  were 
wined  and  dined,  and  turned  their  thoughts  to  the  forward 


THE  ALAMO,   SAN  ANTONIO,  TEXAS. 

journey.  When  the  shades  of  night  had  again  fallen  the 
weary  editors  retired  to  their  cars  and  were  soon  rolling  across 
the  plains  to  the  historic  city  of  San  Antonio,  which  was 
reached  early  on  the  morning  of  June  15th. 

44 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 


The  day  was  bright  and  pleasant,  and  the  temperature 
very  comfortable,  just  such  a  day  as  was  best  suited  for  the 
tourists  to  see  at  its  best 
that  quaint  city.  San 
Antonio  is  most  pictur- 
esque, and  has  been  call- 
ed the  Venice  of  Amer- 
ica. The  city  was  set- 
tled by  the  Spaniards  in 
the  year  1689,  and  the 
romantic  San  Antonio 
river  rising  in  the  green 
hills  several  miles  north 
of  the  city,  flows,  with 
its  deep,  dark  green  wat- 
ers, through  the  city  in 
a  tortuous  and  serpen- 
tine course,  and  is  cross- 
ed by  many  artistic 
bridges.  The  city  has 
many  ancient  and  his- 
toric buildings,  which 
were  erected  by  the 
Spaniards  several  hun- 
dred years  ago.  The 
many  notable  buildings 
and  quaint  customs  of 
long  ago  mingle  with 
the  beautiful  and  roman- 
tic aspects  of  the  past.  FOUR  STREET  SCENES,  SAN 
The  old  Spanish  adobe  ANTONIO,  TEXAS. 

45 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 


house,  with  its  galleries  and  large  court  yard,  stands  up 
neighbor  to  a  modern  business  house,  a  mild  protest  against 
the  encroachment  of  the  busy  activity  of  the  present  day  for 
sordid  gain.  One  can  pause  by  such  a  relic  of  the  past  and 
imagine  he  can  see  the  youthful  and  beautiful  Spanish 
senorita,  with  her  black  lace  mantilla  wrapped  around  her 
head,  looking  from  the  barred  window,  on  her  lover  singing 
in  the  street  below.  The  impress  of  the  Spanish  and 
Mexican  domination  of  the  town  is  seen  on  all  sides,  from 
Alamo  Plaza  to  the  uttermost  outskirts  of  the  city. 


THE    COUNTY    COURT    HOUSE — SAN    FERNANDO    CA- 
THEDRAL— MAIN  PLAZA,   SAN    ANTONIO,   TEXAS. 

In  the  old  days  of  the  power  and  influence  of  the  Span- 
ish friar  there  stretched  no  less  than  21  large,  strong  and 
beautiful  missions  and  monasteries  from  the  Canadian  fron- 
tier to  the  Mexican  border.  There  are  five  of  these  noble 
examples  of  the  architect's  beautiful  fancy,  and  monk's  la- 
bor and  skill  in  the  vicinity  of  San  Antonio.  They  are  the 
Mission  San  Juan  de  Capistran,  erected  in  1716.  The 

46 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 

Alamo  Mission,  built  in  1718.  The  Mission  San  Jose, 
built  in  1718.  The  Mission  San  Francisco  de  Espada, 
established  in  1730.  The  Mission  Concepcion  de  Acuna, 
built  in  1731.  Of  these  missions  that  of  the  Alamo  now 
stands  in  the  centre  of  the  city  of  San  Antonio,  on  the  his- 
toritic  Alamo  Plaza.  The  others  are  located  from  four  to 
six  miles  outside  the  city  limits.  All  of  these  missions 
were  originally  connected  with  each  other  by  large  under- 
ground passages,  to  afford  a  means  of  safety  and  escape. 
Originally  these  missions  were  connected  with  large  dormi- 


THE  FOUR  FAMOUS  SPANISH   MISSIONS,  SAN 
ANTONIO,  TEXAS. 

tories,  or  cloisters,  and  the  whole  surrounded  by  a  large 
wall,  some  20  feet  high,  built  of  adobe,  or  sun-dried  bricks, 
for  the  protection  of  the  monks  and  their  parishoners,  who 
in  times  of  attacks  by  the  blood-thirsty  Indians  fled  to  the 
missions  for  safety.  The  monks  lived  chiefly  by  cultivat- 
ing the  fields  surrounding  the  missions  and  by  bartering 

47 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 


CONFEDERATE   MONUMENT, 


Occasionally  religious 
services  are  still  held  in 
the  San  Jose  Mission- 
on  feast  days.  The 
ruins  of  the  mission 
still  show  wonderfully 
beautiful  carvings  and 
decorations,  display- 
ing master  pieces  of 
skillful  artists.  Of 


with  the  friendly  Indi- 
ans. These  missions 
have  long  since  been 
abandoned  by  the 
monks  as  places  of  res- 
idence, and,  with  the  ex- 
ception of  the  Alamo 
and  San  Jose  Missions, 
are  falling  into  ruins. 


THE  ALAMO  SIXTY  YEARS  AGO. 


them  all  the  Alamo 
stands  forth  with  most 
historic  interest  to  the 
American.  It  was 
therein  in  February 
of  1836  that  America 
had  its  "Thermopylae," 
but  unlike  that  historic 
THE  ALAMO  DECORATED  FOR  SAN  battle  field  the  Alamo 
JACINTO  ANNIVERSARY.  had  no  "messenger  of 

48 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 

defeat,"  for  here  none  escaped.     It  was  here  for  11  days,  in 
that   February  of    1836,  that  handful  of  brave  and  valiant 

Americans  under  Travis, 
Bowie,  Crockett  and  oth- 
ers, kept  General  Santa 
Anna  and  his  7,000 
Mexicans  at  bay  until 
their  ammunition  became 
exhausted  and  the  entire 
garrison  was  massacred, 
and  their  bodies  burned. 
A  month  later  General 
Sam  Houston,  with  his 

"\        v.  i v 

Texans,    defeated     and 
THE  FIGHT  IN    THE  ALAMO.      captured     Santa     Anna 

and  his  Mexicans.  The  Alamo  is  now  used  as  a  historical 
museum.  Plenty  of  places  of  interest  are  to  be  found  in 
San  Antonio  for  the 
tourist  and  the  anti- 
quarian. The  promi- 
nent public  buildings 
are  the  Federal  build- 
ing, city  hall,  court 
house,  market  house, 
Carnegie  Library  and 
the  new  Sunset  depot 

of  the  Southern  Pacific 

T,    .,  TU          •       SOLEDAD  STREET  SIXTY  YEARS  AGO 

Railroad.       The     city 

u  -u.-     -4.     r     v    oo  SAN  ANTONIO, 

has  within  its  limits  22 

beautiful  parks  and  plazas  adorned  with  magnificent  tropi- 
cal plants  and  giant  palms.     South  of  the  city  are  the  fam- 

49 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 


ous  Hot  Wells  Springs,  which 
have  wonderful  health  giving 
properties.  The  city  is  furn- 
ished  with  the  purest  water  h 
from  21  artesian  wells,  which 
pour  forth  daily  41,000,000 
gallons  of  sparkling  water. 
The  streets  are  the  finest  kind, 
laid  in  mesquite  blocks,  as- 
phalt, vitrified  brick  and  ma- 
cadam. There  are  alone  67 
miles  of  good  madamized 
roads.  There  are  also  55 
miles  of  electric  trolley  roads 
in  and  surrounding  the  city. 
One  of  the  most  interesting 
sights  to  the  civilian  is  the 


\ 


A  WINDOW  OF  SAN  JOSE  MIS- 
SION, SAN  ANTONIO, 

United  States  Government  post, 
Fort  Sam  Houston,  on  the  edge  of 
the  city.  The 
officers  and 
soldiers  sta- 
tioned there  ft 


THE  DOOR  OF  SAN  JOSE 
MISSION. 


s  o  m  e  ti  mes 
range  in  num- 

,  bers  from  30,- 

*000  to  50,000    MEXICAN  BASKET 
men,  and  con-          VENDERS, 
tribute  largely  to  the  gaiety  of  the 
social   life  of  the  city.     Life  in  the 
Mexican  quarter    of  the   city  was 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 


especially  interesting  to  those  of  the  party  who  had  never 
seen  the  swarthy  faces  of  the  "Greasers"  or  heard  their  soft 
and  poetical  language.  The  Mexican  girls  from  15  to  20 

are  beautiful  as  pictures,  but  from 
20  to  40  they  become  exceeding- 
ly homely,  and  sometimes  repul- 
sive from  drinking  mescal  and 
smoking  cigarettes. 

The  committee  of  the  Chamber 
of  Commerce  of  San  Antonia,  who 
had  the  editors  in  charge,  per- 
formed their  task  in  a  most  agree- 
able manner,  and  all  was  done  for 
the  comfort  of 

^lW   t^ie  *nner  and 
4""  the  outer  man 

that  Southern 
hospitality 

could  devise  and  offer.  The 
sights  of  the  city  were  seen  in  the 
mosty  thorough  manner,  and  were 
greatly  appreciated.  Each  of  the 
editors  said  good-bye  to  San  An- 
tonio with  keen  regret,  and  with  a 
strong  desire  to  visit  its  confines 
soon  again.  A  large  number  of 
editors  left  the  party  here  and  re- 
turned home. 

By  courtesy  of  the  Southern 
Pacific  Railway,  through  its  genial  and  efficient  officers — 
Passenger  Traffic  Manager  Charles  S.  Fee  and  General 

51 


t-1 

? 

w 

>< 

W 

$ 

u 

fO 

a 
> 

% 


§ 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 


,• 


\ 


Passenger  Agent  T.  H.  Goodman — arrangements  were 
made  to  run  the  editorial  special  train  over  that  road  the 
entire  way  to  San  Francisco,  making  stops  along  the  route 
to  suit  the  convenience  and  pleasure  of  the  editors.  The 
/  courtesy  was  greatly 

!  appreciated  by  the  pen- 

cil pushers,  who  have 
none  but  kindliest  words 
of  praise  for  these  offi- 
cials and  their  road. 
The  Southern  Pacific 
certainly  is  one  of  the 
}  finest  railroads  in  the 
country,  and  ranks  with 
the  very  best  of  them. 
That  road  is  familiarly 
known  the  "Sunset 
Route"  and  its  "Sunset 
Limited"  from  New 
Orleans  to  San  Francis- 
co is  one  of  the  best  and 
imost  palatial  trains  on 
earth,  fitted,  as  it  is, 
with  all  the  modern  con- 
veniences of  travel,  with 
dining  cars  serving 
SAN  JOSE  MISSION,  SAN  ANTONIO.  meals  en  route  ^  to 

those  of  the  swellest  hotels  in  the  land.  This  road  is  call- 
ed the  "Open  Window  Route,"  because  its  locomotives 
burn  oil  for  fuel  and  there  is  no  smoke,  no  cinders  and  no 
dust,  and  the  large  and  commodious  observation  cars  add 

52 


^ 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 

to  the  comfort  of  the  traveler,  giving  ample  opportunity  of 
seeing  all  the  beauties  of  the  scenery  along  the  route.  The 
observation  car  is  equipped  with  a  large  library  of  the  best 
books  of  science,  history  and  fiction,  for  the  free  use  of  the 
passengers,  and  a  fully  equipped  buffet. 


SAN  JUAN  MISSION,  SAN  ANTONIO. 


53 


CHAPTER  IX. 


THE  RIO  GRANDE  —  THE  PLAINS  OF  WESTERN  TEXAS  —  THE 
PECOS  RIVER  BRIDGE  —  EL  PASO  —  JUAREZ,  MEXICO. 


evening  of  June  15th  saw  all  the  moulders  of  pub- 
JL   lie  opinion    at  the   beautiful  "Sunset"   depot  ready  to 
board  their  special  train,  leave  San   Antonio    and  start  in 

chase  of   the  set  ..jiilftfc.                   ^n£  suru      ^e 

"Sunset"    depot  VI  is     a     beautiful 

structure,  built  in  JjjJ|^l  B^ftHflvtrue    harmony 

and  coloring    of  t$&^vl\S^f&i^  t^ie  °^  Spanish 

mission  style  of  jBJH^jpu                  architecture,  and 

the  city,  surroun  ded,   as  it  is,  in 

beautiful  droop  THE  MEXICAN  GOING  ing  palms  and  an 
artistic  hedges  of  TO  MARKET.  California  cyp- 

ress. The  special  train  was  soon  speeding  through  the 
night  on  its  westward  course,  and  the  editors  awoke  early 
the  next  morning  to  find  the  train  rushing  along  the  great 
Rio  Grande  River,  swollen  by  recent  rains  into  a  mighty 

torrent.  The  river,  in  many  places, 
rushed  along  between  high  and  pre- 
cipitous banks  formed  by  rocky 
cliffs,  and  on  one  side  of  the  river 
was  the  free  and  enlightened  United 
States  of  America,  while  on  the  op- 
posite side,  only  a  rifle  shot  away 

54 


TYPES  OF  MEXICANS 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 


the   species  of   cactus 
It  is  said  that  with  ir- 


was  the  effete  empire  of  Mexico,  the  so-called  republic,  silent 
as  the   grave.     A  few  hours  later   the  train  was   running 

swiftly  over  our  vast 
rolling  plains,  covered 
only  with  withered  sage 
brush  and  many  varie- 
ties of  cacti,  seemingly 
practically  worthless  as 
farming  or  grazing 
land,  yet  sheep  thrive 
and  grow  fat,  finding 
much  nourishment  in 
MEXICAN  VILA,  SAN  ANTONIO. 

growing  there  called  prickly  pear, 
rigation  these  same  apparently  arid  and  unproductive  plains 
will  blush  and  blossom  like  a  rose.  At  different  places 
along  the  road,  miles  and  miles  from  any  town,  were  seen 
large  numbers  of  box  cars  fitted  up  with  bunks  and  cooking 
and  eating  arrange- 
ments. We  were  told 
these  were  used  by  the 
track  hands  who  build, 
keep  up  and  repair  the 
road  bed.  These  men 
camp  out  thus  for 
months  and  months  at 
a  time,  during  which 
period  they  never  see  a 
town.  Among  the 
workmen  are  many  Chinese,  Mexicans  and  a  large  number 
of  Indians,  who  are  said  to  make  fair  workmen — as  long  as 

55 


CHILI  CON  CARNI  TABLES,  SAN 
ANTONIO. 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 


HOME  OF  THE  MEXICAN  PEON. 


they  feel  like  it,  and  as  long  as  they  are  kept  away  from 
whiskey,  or  "fire  water,"  as  they  call  it.  Both  the  Indians 
and  Mexicans  of  the  lower  orders  will  make  any  sacrifice, 
or  go  to  any 
inconvenience 
to  secure  suf- 
ficient whis- 
key to  make 
them  drunk, 
and  when 
they  reach 
that  condition 
they  are  ex- 
ceedingly dangerous  and  blood-thirsty  wretches.  Some 
miles  further  west  we  passed  Del  Rio,  and  old  Mexican 
adobe  town,  which  doubtless  was  so  called  because  it  was 
not  on  the  river  (Rio).  Late  in  the  afternoon,  after  cross- 
ing sandy  deserts,  we  came  to  Viaduct,  Texas,  where  there  is 

one  of  the  largest  if  not 
the  largest,  railroad 
bridge  in  the  world 
spanning  a  deep  gorge 
of  the  Pecos  River. 
The  bridge  is  almost 
half  a  mile  long  and  is 
427  feet  above  the  sur- 
of  the  river.  The  train 
halts  on  the  centre  of 
that  great  bridge  so  that  the  passengers  may  get  out  and 
take  a  look  over  its  dizzy  side  into  the  frightful  depths  be- 
low. Few  can  look  in  the  water  without  a  shudder  of  fear. 

56 


BEAUTIFUL  SAN  ANTONIO  HOME. 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 


El  Paso,  at  the  extreme  western  border  of  Texas,  was 
the  last  scheduled  stopping  place  in  the  Lone  Star  State, 
and  it  was  reached  by  the  special  train  Friday  evening, 


some  journey  of  well 
nigh  1,000  miles  from 
San  Antonio.  The  cit- 
izens of  El  Paso  were 
well  prepared  for  the 
descent  upon  them  of 
the  hundreds  of  editors, 
and  the  entire  popula- 
tion, with  committees 
SAN  FERNANDO  CATHEDRAL,  100  ^  ^  j. 

YEARS  AGO,  SAN  ANTONIO.  tumed  QUt  tQ  greet 

welcome  their  guests.  The  address  of  welcome  was  made 
by  Zack  Cobb,  a  lawyer,  and  a  grandson  of  Ho  well  Cobb, 
of  President  James  Buchanan's  cabinet.  His  speech  was 
full  of  fire,  vehemence  and  burning  eloquence,  which  made 
the  hearts  of  his  hearers  tingle  as  he  bade  them  welcome  to 
the  best  the  city  affor- 
ded, and  also  he  told 
them  of  the  future 
greatness  that  was  to 
be  her's.  At  the  con- 
clusion of  the  speech 
making  the  newspaper  ^ 
men  were  taken  on 
special  trolley  cars  to 


HOT  SULPHUR  WELLS,  SAN 
ANTONIO. 


view  all   the  sights  of  that  queen   city  of  the  Rio   Grande 
River.     This  beautiful   city  stands  at  an  altitude  of   3,717 

57 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 


FRUIT  ORCHARD,   EL  PASO,  TEXAS. 

feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  It  now  has  a  population  of 
over  30,000  people,  and  is  rapidly  increasing.  By  reason 
of  its  locality  at  the  gateway  of  Old  Mexico,  and  the  fact 
that  19  trunk  lines  reach  and  pass  through  the  city,  it  is 
destined  to  become  the  commercial  metropolis  of  the  South- 
west. It  is  practically  the  half-way  house  between  the  At- 
lantic and  Pacific  Oceans,  and  between  Denver  and  the  city 
of  Mexico,  and  has  been  the  Mecca  of  the  health-seeker 
and  the  resting  place  of  the  tourist  for  a  quarter  of  a  cen- 
tury. From  El  Paso  can  be  reached  the  Mexican  cities  of 
Juarez,  Chihuahua,  the  City  of  Mexico  and  the  numerous 
other  cities  on  the  Mexican  Central  Railway,  and  the  many 
health  resorts  of  Southern  New  Mexico.  The  beautiful 

58 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 

scenery  of  the  Rio  Grande,  and  the  fine  views  of  the 
Raton  and  Glorieta  Mountains  to  the  north,  and  north- 
easterly the  Sacramento  and  White  Mountains,  from  12,000 
to  14,000  feet  above  sea  level,  add  to  the  attractiveness  of 
the  place.  A  mile  or  more  outside  the  city  can  be  seen 
the  clouds  of  smoke  pouring  from  the  largest  ore  smelters 
in  the  world,  where  millions  of  dollars  worth  of  gold  and 
silver  are  extracted  from  the  stubborn  rock  and  added  to 
the  permanent  wealth  of  the  world.  North  of  the  city, 
nestling  against  the  great  Franklin  Mountain  range,  is  Fort 
Bliss,  one  of  Uncle  Sam's  most  important  military  reserva- 
tions, where  the  most  daring  cavalry  riders  and  scouts  are 
trained.  Every  way  one  may  turn  there  are  objects  of 


BALING  ALFALFA,   NEAR  EL  PASO,    TEXAS. 

59 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 


interest  and  beauty  to  be  seen.  After  making  the  inspec- 
tion of  El  Paso,  the  editors  were  taken  across  the  large 
bridge  spanning  the  Rio  Grande  to  Ciudad- Juarez,  Mexico, 
and  given  their  first 
close  view  of  a  foreign 
land.  The  Mexicans, 
knowing  what  had  been 
done  earlier  in  the  day 
by  their  "Gringo" 
brethren  of  El  Paso,  de- 
termined to  show  the 
Americans  a  thing  or  FLOATING  GARDENS,  MEXICO, 
two.  The  Board  of  Trade,  accompanied  by  the  Alacade 
and  all  the  other  town  dignitaries,  turned  out  with  a  fine 
band  to  bid  the  visitors  welcome,  and  do  them  honor.  To 
the  delight  of  the  younger  ink-slingers,  as  well  as  many  of 
the  "old  boys,"  the  delegation  was  accompanied  by  a  host 
of  the  prettiest  and  most  attractive  senoritas  that  Mexico 

can  boast  of.  What 
the  charming  senoritas 
lacked  in  language  they 
more  than  made  up  in 
languishing,  captivat- 
ing glances,  and  many 
of  the  boys  left  with 
lacerated  hearts  at  the 
PRIVATE  RESIDENCE  ON  THE  hour  of  parting.  In  the 
PASEO,  MEXICO.  reception  committee 

were  the  Quien  Sabe  Elks,  of  El  Paso,  who,  clad  in  their 
new  and  picturesque  Mexican  suits,  and  wearing  broad 
sombreros,  looked  very  unique.  The  public  reception  was 

60 


I 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST, 


CHURCH   OF  ST.   GUADALUFE,   OVER   3CO    YEARS  OLD, 
JUAREZ,   MEXICO. 

held  at  the  Mexican  Custom  House,  where  very  palatable 
refreshments,  and  plenty  of  punch  and  cognac  brandy,  were 
served  the  visitors.  The  editors  were  free  and  easy  and. 
made  most  of  the  pleasures  of  the  occasion,  banishing  dull 
care  and  all  thoughts  of  the  troubles  of  the  'morrow.  The 
bewitching  senoritas,  as  a  souvenir  of  the  occasion,  pinned 
to  each  editorial  breast  a  miniature  Mexican  straw  sombrero 
hat,  to  which  was  attached  a  ribbon  bearing  the  motto: 
"Viva  el  Cuarto  Poder,  El  Paso,  Texas  and  Juarez,  Mexi- 
co, Junio  16,  1905."  The  town  of  Juarez  being  a  very  old 
Mexican  town,  many  objects  were  seen  there  telling  of  the 

61 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 


ancient  Spanish  occupation,  and  on  all  sides  were  places  of 
interest   to   the   inqusitive   American.     To  many  the  old 

Spanish  mission,  with 
its  beautiful  cathedral, 
dating  back  over  300 
years,  was  a  place  to  be 
admired  and  wondered 
at.  The  massive  walls 
of  the  cathedral  and  the 
beauty  of  its  lines  show- 
ed that  the  old  dons  and 
monks  built  for  ages  to 
come,  with  an  eye  also 
to  grace  and  beauty. 
But  to  American  Sab- 
was  great  incongruity  in  the  location  of 


VIEW  AT  THE  HEAD  OF  THE  SAN 
ANTONIO  RIVER. 

bath  lovers  there 


the  cathedral,  for  a  short  distance  back  of  its  walls  stands 
the  city  arena,  where  the  worshippers,  after  services  each 
Sunday,  retire  to  witness  and  applaud  the  cruel,  bloody 
and  dangerous  bull  fights  which  take  place  there.  At 
these  fights  atrocious 
cruelties  are  practiced 
and  hundreds  of  bulls 
and  horses  are  ruthless- 
ly killed  annually,  and 
not  unfrequently  the 
matador  (the  man  who 
fights  against  the  bull) 
is  gored  to  death.  The 
bill  boards  of  the  town 
were  covered  with  the  most  remarkable  flaming  posters 

62 


SAN  PEDRO  PARK,  SAN  ANTONIO. 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST, 


DEER  IN  BRECKENRIDGE  PARK, 
SAN  ANTONIO. 


announcing  the  grand  regular  bull  fight  for  the  following 
Sunday.  The  posters  were  printed  half  in  English  and 
half  in  Spanish.  The  English  part  of  it  read  as  follows: 
"Plaza  de  Toros  de  C. 
Juarez,  Sunday  18,  at 
8.30  in  the  night.  The 
most  sensational  bull 
fight  ever  witnessed  in 
Juarez.  Troupe  of 
youthful  Amateurs,  all 
Americans,  belonging 
to  the  most  exclusive 
society,  of  El  Paso, 
Texas,  who  have  of- 
fered their  services  to 
the  Junta  Patriotica  for  this  bull  fight,  with  a  view  of  rais- 
ing funds  for  the  Benito  Juarez  Monument,  demonstrating 
as  neighbors  and  friends  of  this  Republic,  that  they  are 
carried  off  by  the  National  enthusiasm,  which  has  been 
aroused  to  erect  a  monument  to  the  memory  of  one  of  the 

greatest  men  in  the  His- 
tory of  the  Nation. 
4 — Brave  Bulls — from 
Samalayuca  and  San 
Martin  ranches.  All  to 
the  death."  The  bill 
also  gave  a  full  list  of 
the  names  of  the  mat  a- 

SAN  ANTONIO  50  YEARS  AGO.      ^ores,     picadores      and 

bandenlleros.     The  ad- 
mission  price  was  named   at   seventy-five  and  fifty  cents. 

63 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 

The  remainder  of  the  bill  was  taken  up  with  the  same  ad- 
vertisement repeated  in  Spanish. 

Other  public  buildings,  including  the  jail,  were  inspec- 
ted by  the  party,  after  which  considerable  time  was  spent 
in  buying  Mexican  souvenirs,  from  the  high  conical  Mexican 
pointed  straw  hat,  with  its  bullion  band,  to  the  handsome 
Mexican  blankets  of  most  vivid  hues.  Strange  as  it  may 
seem,  when  the  newspaper  men  and  their  girls  re-crossed 
the  bridge  into  El  Paso,  and  the  United  States,  not  one  of 
them  had  any  article  on  which  to  pay  duty  to  Uncle  Sam. 
Perhaps  the  custom  house  officers  were  just  a  little  human 
that  day  and  turned  their  blind  side  to  the  returning  tour- 
ists. The  remainder  of  the  evening  was  spent  in  carriage 
drives  around  the  fine  roads  of  El  Paso,  and  8  o'clock  the 
tourists  again  turned  their  faces  westward. 


BIRD'S-EYE  VIEW  OF  FORT  SAM 
HOUSTON. 

64 


CHAPTER  X. 

THE  DESERTS  OF  NEW  MEXICO  AND  ARIZONA  —  THE  CACTI. 
THE  CITIES  OF  TUCSON  AND  YUMA. 


way  West  from  El  Paso  for  over  1,800  miles, 
JL  passing  through  New  Mexico  and  Arizona,  is  over  the 
dryest  and  most  parched  deserts  in  the  United  States,  on 
which  nothing  but  sage  bush  and  cacti  grow.  Yet  in  all 
its  forlorness  the  desert  presented  attractions  to  the  student 
of  nature,  for  the  cacti  in  numberless  varieties,  shapes  and 
forms  for  hundreds  of  miles  stretched  along  the  tracks  with 
their  bright  and  varied  blooms,  giving  the  sandy  wastes  a 
peculiar  and  irresistable  beauty.  At  one  time  for  miles  and 
hours  we  passed  through  what  seemed  to  be  an  endless 
garden  of  the  species  cacti  known  as  "Spanish  daggar" 
which  were  in  full  bloom  and  crowned  with  the  most  beau- 
tiful blooms  of  white  flower-like  bells,  some  blooms  five  feet 
long,  that  we  had  ever  seen.  We  longed  to  stop  the  train 
that  we  might  pluck  a  few  of  those  majestic  blooms  and 
send  them  to  our  friends  in  the  east.  The  cacti  in  many 
places  were  veritable  forests  with  specimens  from  8  to  12 
inches  thick  and  growing  to  a  height  of  15  and  20  feet. 
The  stations  and  towns  along  this  road  were  small,  few 
and  far  between,  and  water  a  scarce  article,  wells  being  as 
far  as  70  miles  apart,  and  to  many  of  the  railroad  watering 
stations  the  water  for  the  engines  had  to  be  hauled  a  much 

65 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 


further  distance.  The  railroad  repairs  along  the  Southern 
Pacific  road  are  done  by  hands  who  are  quartered  in  box 
cars,  turned  into  sleeping  cars  and  hauled  from  place  to 
place  as  needed,  and  each  gang  carries  its  own  cook  and  a 
water  car  tank,  often  an  old  abandoned  oil  car.  So  it  is 
readily  seen  that  the  life  of  the  railroad  gang  man  is  not  a 
happy  one,  and  they 
naturally  have  among 
their  number  some  of 
the  toughest  specimens 
of  humanity  seen  in  the 
country.  The  great 
sand  storms  of  these 
deserts,  with  their  fierce 
winds  laden  with  sand,  \ 
in  a  few  minutes  will 
bury  the  railroad  en- 
tirely out  of  sight  and 
make  it  an  imperative 
necessity  for  the  road  to 
keep  numerous  gangs  :X 

along  that  part  of  the 
line  to  be  quickly  used  ( 

when  needed.  The 
road  in  its  course  west 
rises  to  an  elevation  of 
5,082  feet  above  sea 

level,  and  then  again  it    CROCKET  STREET  BRIDGE  OVER 
goes  down  so  low  that  SAN  ANTONIO  RIVER, 

at   Salton  it  is  263    feet  below  the  sea  level.     The   road? 
with  its  risings  and  fallings  of  grades,  represents  great  en- 

66 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 


gineering  feats,  and  it  is  wound  around  through  rocky 
gorges  and  along  sides  of  cliffs  like  a  mighty  serpent 
winding  its  way  to  the  sea.  In  places  benches  were  cut 
out  of  the  sides  of  high  cliffs,  and  large  over-hanging  rocks 
were  left,  which,  to  the  timid  passenger,  seemed  ready  to 
fall  at  any  minute  and  crush  the  cars  and  all  therein.  The 

road  does  not  touch 
any  of  the  important 
towns  of  New  Mexico, 
and  the  next  place  of 
any  considerable  mag- 
nitude after  El  Paso 
was  Tucson,  Arizona, 
which  has  a  popula- 
approximating  20,000 
It  is  full  of  vim,  push 
and  energy,  and  has 
all  the  modern  im- 
provements, with  man- 
ufacturing plants,  that 
many  a  larger  city 
might  be  proud  of. 
It  is  up  at  an  eleva- 
tion of  2,400  feet 
above  the  sea,  and  is 
a  veritable  oasis  in 
the  desert;  a  beauty 
SAN  FERNANDO  CATHEDRAL  AND  spot  in  the  sandy 
MILITARY  PLAZA,  SAN  ANTONIO  wastes.  The  early 
history  of  Tucson  is  full  of  romance,  dating  back  to  the 
days  of  the  Spanish  conquerors.  The  courageous  Spanish 

67 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 


padres,  as  early  as  1649,  carried  their  religious  banners 
into  that  country,  and  founded  the  nearby  San  Xavier 
Mission.  A  settlement  soon  sprang  up,  and  later  came  the 
Spanish  garrison  to  protect  the  settlers  from  the  raids  of  the 
blood-thirsty  Apache  Indians.  The  place  soon  came  to  be 
known  as  Tucson,  from  the  name  given  by  the  Indians  to 
the  waters  in  the  Santa  Cruz  Valley,  near  the  town.  La- 
ter, in  1853,  Tucson  and  the  surrounding  lands,  by  the 
Gadsden  purchase,  became  United  States  territory.  The 

town  later  became  an 
important  station  on  the 
over-land  coach  mail 
route,  and  still  later  a 
hustling  frontier  town. 
Its  future  prosperity  and 
growth  was  not  fully 
assured  until  1884,  when 
the  Southern  P  a  c  i  fi  c 
Railroad  was  built  into 
the  town.  Since  that 
date  the  improvement 
Tucson  has  been  rapid 
and  substantial,  until 
'.' £  she  has  become  a  mod- 

ern city:  a   great   busi- 
A  RIVER  BRIDGE,  SAN  ANTONIO.     ^  center;  &  metropolis 

of  some  very  considerable  importance.  The  city  is  full  of 
modern  homes  and  fine  business  houses,  but  it  has  still  on 
it  many  of  the  marks  of  the  Mexican  domination — its  nar- 
row streets,  lined  with  adobe  houses,  and  large  Mexican 
population,  who  still  cling  to  all  the  customs  of  their  Spanish 

68 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST, 


MOONLIGHT  ON  THE  COLORADO  RIVER  AT  YUMA. 

ancestors.  Even  her  newest  buildings  are  built  in  beauti- 
ful Spanish  and  Aztec  designs  of  architecture.  It  has  its 
clubs,  its  churches  and  societies  of  the  best  secret  orders  to 
make  life  joyful  and  comfortable.  With  its  important  loca- 
tion and  commercial  enterprise,  it  presents  many  fine  oppor- 
tunities to  the  business  man  and  capitalist. 

Of  course  every  one  wanted  a  souvenir  of  the  day. 
These  Indians  of  the  once  fierce  and  powerful  Yumas  are 
now  apparently  as  gentle  as  lambs,  and  given  over  to  the 
ways  of  peace.  But  it  was  not  always  thus  with  them,  for 
in  their  annals  are  traditions  of  many  a  bloody  war-path. 
One  of  their  most  fiendish  outrages  was  away  back  in  1781, 
when  the  braves,  led  by  their  demonical  Chief  Palmer,  de- 
scended, like  a  thunder  bolt  out  of  the  clear  sky,  upon  the 
two  Spanish  missions  near  by,  and  with  the  utmost  cruelty 
murdered  all  the  peaceful  friars,  women  and  children,  who 
had  taken  refuge  in  the  mission  buildings.  For  this  out- 

69 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 

rage  dire  revenge  was  later  inflicted  upon  the  Yumas,  and 
they  were  glad  to  "bury  the  hatchet"  and  smoke  the  pipe 
of  peace.  The  situation  of  Yuma  is  low,  being  only  140 
feet  above  the  ocean  level,  but  the  air  is  dry  and  healthy. 
The  Yumaites  will  admit,  with  a  smile,  that  it  is  occasion- 
ally just  a  trifle  hot  there  in  the  summer  time.  Heat,  of 
course,  is  entirely  a  matter  of  personal  feeling.  The  city  is 
progressive,  and  enjoys  a  good  trade.  The  mines,  the 
agricultural  enterprises  and  the  stock  raising  industry  all 
contribute  largely  to  the  stability  and  wealth  of  the  city. 
The  business  houses  are  modern  and  well  suited  for  the 
demands  of  active  business  methods.  The  picturesque  be- 
galleried  buildings,  which  once  were  called  Fort  Yuma, 
have  become  devoted  to  the  ways  of  peace,  and  now  shelter 
the  young  Indians  who  are  being  taught  to  be  good  at  the 
expense  of  Uncle  Sam.  The  Colorado  River — as  its  name 


THE  YUMA   INDIAN    FAMILY. 

70 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 


THE  PALM   DRIVE,   YUM  A. 

signifies,  is  "red"  at  Yuma,  with  the  soil  of  many  an  acre 
which  it  is  carrying  on  its  bosom  to  soften  the  outlines  of 
the  Gulf  of  California  below,  where  the  river  loses  itself. 
The  waters  of  the  Colorado  River,  near  Yuma,  are  being 
utilized  to  irrigate  and  reclaim  some  50,000  acres  of  parch- 
ed and  arid  land.  Looking  to  the  north  from  Yuma,  65 
miles  away,  is  seen,  looming  up  in  the  clear  sky,  the  hat 
peaked  mountain  named  Castle  Dome,  and  to  the  south 
Pilot  Knob,  which  for  hundreds  of  years  have  been  guiding 
signs  for  the  voyagers  of  the  plains. 

From  Tucson  the  railroad  rapidly  descends  from  the 
"divide"  until  at  Yuma,  Arizona,  it  is  but  140  feet  above 
the  level  of  the  ocean.  This  city  is  said  to  be  the  hottest 
place  on  the  face  of  God's  green  earth.  It  is  related  that 
a  former  wicked  man  of  Yuma  was  called  to  his  reward  and 
awoke  in  the  realms  of  his  Satanic  majesty,  and  found  the 
heat  there  so  cold  that  he  had  to  come  back  to  Yuma  to  get 

71 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 

his  blankets  to  keep  him  warm  in  his  new  home.  Yuma  is 
situated  at  the  meeting  place  of  the  powerful  Colorado 
River  and  Gila  River — an  abundance  of  water — and  still 
the  people  there  are  very  partial  to  the  drink  that  made 
Gambrinus  famous.  Numerous  Indians  live  in  and  around 
the  city,  and  they  flock  to  the  station  on  the  arrival  of  trains 
to  sell  the  guilelss  and  unwary  tourist  their  crude  bead  and 
feather  work  at  large  prices.  At  Yuma  the  tourists  saw 
their  first  oranges  and  lemons  growing  on  the  trees. 


THE  YUMA  INDIAN  ROSE   BUD. 


72 


CHAPTER  XI. 

THE  PLAINS  AND  VALLEYS  OF  CALIFORNIA — THE   GOL- 
DEN STATE — THE  SEA  OF  SALT. 

FROM  Yuma  the  Colorado  River  was  crossed  and  the 
Sunset  State  of  California  was  reached  on  the  further 
bank  of  the  stream.  There  was  a  long  run  through  arid 
plains  on  first  reaching  California.  At  Salton  a  salt  lake 
was  seen,  where  the  waters  evaporate  quickly  leaving  a 
good  grade  of  salt,  which  is  hauled  away  by  the  car  load 
and  purified  for  commercial  use.  This  part  of  California 
has  such  a  pure  air  and  dry  climate  that  the  high  tempera- 
ture has  no  ill  effect  on  the  people,  while  the  nights  are 
cool,  allowing  refreshing  sleep.  The  country,  with  its  fine 
climate  is  a  veritable  Mecca  for  persons  suffering  from  tu- 
berculosis. 

Salton  and  the  surrounding  country  is  in  a  large  basin 
of  what  was  once,  doubtless,  a  vast  inland  sea.  The  land 
is  about  300  feet  below  the  level  of  the  ocean.  Back  for  a 
hundred  years  and  more,  to  the  time  that  the  memory  of 
man  runneth  not  to  the  contrary,  the  valley  surrounding 
Salton  was  a  waterless,  sandy  waste.  About  two  years 
ago  the  water  was  noticed  to  be  rising  in  the  lowest  part 
of  the  valley,  and  soon  Salton  Lake  was  formed.  Various 
theories  have  been  advanced  for  the  sudden  appearance  of 
the  lake,  but  the  most  reasonable  one  is  that  the  waters 
escaped  through  some  underground  channels  from  the  im- 

73 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 


GENERAL  VIEW  OF    YUMA,  ARIZONA. 

mense  irrigation  plants  in  Arizona.  At  Indio,  25  miles 
farther  west,  we  found  hosts  of  consumptives  sleeping  out 
under  the  trees  in  mosquito  net  covered  cots.  Here  we 
were  told  have  been  wrought  most  wonderful  cures  by 
Nature's  own  restoratives.  Patients  have  come  there  so 
weak  and  exhausted  that  they  had  to  be  carried  off  the 
cars,  helpless  as  little  babies,  to  rise  strong  men  and  walk 
away  the  next  summer  fully  restored  to  health.  Inva- 
lids from  all  parts  of  the  world  flock  to  Indio  for  relief;  few 
there  are  who  go  away  uncured,  and  none  go  away  with- 
out receiving  some  substantial  relief. 

Surrounding  the  station  is  a  scene  of  rare  tropical 
beauty — there  are  the  vine  and  fig-tree,  the  orange,  stately 
palm  trees,  luxuriant  flowers  and  other  tropical  growths. 
Indio  lies  down  far  below  the  level  of  the  ocean,  in  what 
was  once  the  bottom  of  an  inland  sea  of  vast  expanse.  We 

74 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 


ARISTOCRATIC  PORTION  OF  MEXI- 
CAN QUARTER,   SAN  ANTONIO. 


observed  no  particular 
difference  in  the  atmos- 
phere, or  comfort  of 
breathing.  The  geo- 
logical evidences  indi- 
cate that  where  Irdio 
now  stands  the  briny 
waves  were  once  fath- 
oms deep.  Abundant 
supplys  of  good,  pure 
and  clear  water  for  man 
and  beast,  and  for  re- 
freshing the  thirsty 
land  are  obtained  from 
deep  artesian  wells.  There  is  hotel  and  boarding  accommo- 
dations for  travelers  at  Indio.  A  finely  equipped  sanitarium 
provides  for  all  the  wants  of  invalids.  When  the  train 
stopped  at  the  station  a  host  of  children — white,  black  and 
brown — besieged  the  passengers  to  buy  oranges,  fine  sweet 
ones,  at  the  rate  of  two  dozen  for  a  25-cent  piece.  "One 
curious  effect  of  reflected  sunlight,  atmosphere,  salt  and 
chlorine  gas,  always  to  be  seen  at  points  between  Indio 
and  Volcano  Springs,  and  called  Mirage,  is  the  appearance 
of  a  beautiful  body  of  water  at  the  south,  with  islands,  large 
and  small,  trees  and  verdure,  and  invitation  to  the  thirsty 
to  come  and  be  satisfied;  but  go  not,  for  it  is  waterless — not 
a  drop  to  be  had,  though  you  died  for  it." 

There  has  been  some  talk  of  establishing  a  national 
sanitarium  for  consumptives  at  Indio,  and  there  are  strong 
hopes  that  the  project  will  materialize.  The  editors  on  the 
morning  of  June  16th  opened  their  eyes  early  to  gaze  upon 

75 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 


the  scenes  that  help  to  make  California  great.  Fields  so 
large,  that  farms  in  the  east  seem  small  by  comparison, 
were  seen,  made  fertile  by  irrigation,  and  closely  followed 
acre  upon  acre  of  bright  green  orchards,  with  the  sparkling, 
life-giving  water  flowing  between  their  rows,  and  the  trees 
ladened  with  the  finest  of  fruit — plums,  olives,  figs,  apples, 
peaches,  oranges  and  lemons. 

In  the  distance,  from  the  railroad,  were  seen  the  noble 
hills  and  grand  mountain  tops.  To  the  traveler  California, 
so  vast  and  so  varied,  is  bewildering.  Few,  even  of  its 
old  residents,  know  one-half  of  its  attributes  or  its  charms. 
Its  very  sun  and  sky  and  air  fascinate.  Frowning  cliffs 
and  towering  trees  all  speak  of  the  wonders  of  out-of-door 
living.  The  valleys,  the  hills,  the  peaks  and  'the  grand 
and  rugged  mountains,  with  snow  clad  crests,  and  the 
never-tiring  sea,  make  pic- 
tures of  sublimest  beauty, 
to  charm  even  the  dullest 
mind.  The  climate  of  the 
"Golden  State"  is  most 
wonderful.  In  the  valleys 
are  found  days  of  contin- 
ued sunshine,  where  330 
days  out  of  the  whole  year 
are  bright  and  rainless — 
a  perfect  tropic  climate, 
with  all  the  tropical  fruits 
from  the  palm  date  to  the 
pomegranate.  In  the  dis- 
tant foothills  hides  a  more  LADY  OF  THE  LAKE  SCHOOL, 
bracing  air,  while  in  the  SAN  ANTONIO. 

76 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST, 

more  distant  high 
mountains  the  bracing 
air  of  winter  may  be 
found,  and  in  the  win- 
ter months  the  visitor 
may  then  have  all  the 
sleigh  rides  he  wants, 
with  all  the  other  win- 
ter sports.  The  win- 
ters in  California  are  7} 
ideal,  and  cause  thous- 
ands annually  to  flee  SAINT  LOUIS  COLLEGE,  SAN  ANTONIO 

there  to  escape  the  rigorous  winters  in  the  east,  for  in  the 
valleys  and  on  the  sea  coast  can  be  found  a  tropical  climate 
all  the  year  around.  The  summers  of  that  State  are  simply 
idyllic,  for  all  the  days  are  bright  and  full  of  sunshine,  and 
pleasant,  and  no  rain  comes  to  mar  the  pleasures  of  out- 
of-door  life.  The  heat  is  dry,  but  not  oppressive,  while  the 
shades  of  night  continually  bring  cool  and  refreshing 
breezes,  inviting  sweet  and  restful  sleep.  The  hottest  days 
are  always  followed  by  cool  nights.  The  climate  is  the 
most  equable  known.  The  State  is  full  of  mineral  springs. 
In  the  Sierra  Nevada  Mountain  region,  and  other  parts  of 
the  State,  are  enough  health-giving  mineral  springs  of  the 
greatest  efficiency  to  drive  the  baths  of  Germany  out  of 
business  could  the  health  restoring  qualities  of  their  waters 
become  known  to  the  many  sufferers  who  annually  seek  the 
waters  of  Europe. 

The  State  is  full  of  all  kinds  of  game;  the  lakes  and 
rivers  are  teeming  with  the  gamey  trout,  and  all  other  kinds 
of  fish,  making  it  a  veritable  sportsman's  paradise,  for  there 

77 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 


are  no  rains  to  come  and  spoil  his  plans  or  mar  his  sport; 
so  that  life  in  camp  is  one  continued  round  of  joy  and 
pleasure. 

California  obtained  its  name,  the  "Golden  State,"  from 
the  fact  that  it  is  so  rich  in  gold-bearing  sands  and  rocks. 
On  January  19th,  1848,  gold  was  first  discovered  in  Cali- 
fornia, when  James  W.  Marshall,  an  employee  of  General 
John  A.  Sutter,  found  in  the  mill-race  of  Coloma,  El  Dora- 
do county;  bits  of  sparkling  metal  that  he  knew  were  gold. 
Like  the  shots  at  Lexington  and  Concord,  Marshall's  cry 
of  "gold"  was  heard  'round  the  world.  Hither  in  two 
years  thereafter  from  over  land  and  over  seas  came  more 
than  a  100,000  adventurous  men  to  dig  for  the  yellow  metal. 
The  State  from  that  day  to  the  present  has  continued  to 
produce  from  her  mountains  and  rivers  vast  quantities  of 
the  golden  treasure,  enriching  the  seekers  after  wealth. 

In  fruits  and  grain  and  all  kinds  of  vegetables  Cali- 
fornia stand  in  the  front  ranks  of  production,  while  her  hills 
and  mountains  produce  coal  and  all  kinds  of  minerals,  and 
her  pastures  raise  sleek  cattle,  fat  sheep  and  fast  horses. 
A  hundred  years  or  so  ago  a  Spaniard  planted  some  pota- 
toes in  Southern  Cali- 
fornia, but  before  he 
could  dig  his  crop  a 
band  of  Indians  drove 
him  out  of  the  section. 
Recently  some  excava- 
tors on  the  site  of  the 
potato  patch  dug  up  a 
fine  crop  stones,  the  po- 
FALLS  ON  SAN  ANTONIO  RIVER,  tatoes  having  petrified 

78 


.RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 


into  that  material.  The 
varied  manufactories  of 
the  State  provide  amp- 
ly for  the  needs  of  her 
people.  She  is  a  veri- 
table empire  within  her- 
self. It  is  said  that 
California,  by  reason  of 
THE  CARNEGIE  LIBRARY,  SAN  vast  resources  and  var- 
ANTONIO.  led  industries,  is  the 

only  State  in  the  Union  which  is  entirely  self-supporting, 
and  that  she  could  be  lifted  up  bodily  and  set  down  in  the 
midst  of  the  great  Pacific  Ocean  and  still  go  on  in  her  self- 
supporting  way. 

Saturday  afternoon  as  the  train  speeded  past  the  vast 
wheat  fields,  with  their  golden  grain,  the  pencil  pushers  saw 
an  example  of  western  push  and  energy.  In  the  fields  were 
seen  large  machines  which  are  pushed  instead  of  pulled  by 
the  horses.  These  machines,  we  were  told,  were  "head- 
ers," or  machines,  which,  as  they  pass  through  the  fields, 
cut  off  only  about  six  inches  of  the  top  of  the  wheat  and 
bunch  it  up.  These  heads  are  then  taken  to  another  part 
of  the  field,  where  a  large  steam  thresher  stands  at  work, 
and  soon  the  golden  grain  is  taken  from  the  chaff.  After 
the  header  follows  the  mower,  which  cuts  down  the  straw, 
and  a  baler  nearby  packs  the  straw  in  bales  ready  for  ship- 
ment to  the  markets  far  and  near  for  feed.  Thus  it  is  the 
harvesting  and  threshing  are  done  in  the  fields,  as  a  con- 
tinuous performance,  and  there  is  not  the  double  handling 
of  crops  seen  in  the  east;  nor  is  there  any  need  of  big  barns 
to  store  the  grain  in  the  sheaf,  for  the  grain  goes  from  the 

79 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 

fields  to  the  waiting  markets,  and  is  quickly  transferred  to 
the  life-giving  bread  to  feed  the  nation.  Farming  is  done 
on  such  a  large  scale  that  most  of  it  is  done  by  machinery, 
and  but  little  hand  labor  is  necessary  on  most  of  the  farms. 
The  vast  level  fields  in  the  valleys  and  plains  make  it  a 
very  simple  and  easy  matter  to  use  the  complicated  mach- 
inery. The  ease  with  which  those  people  farm  would  make 
the  Pennsylvania  farmer  envious  could  he  see  them.  There 
was  something  of  interest  and  wonderment  that  met  the 
views  of  the  travelers  all  along  the  way,  and  even  the  des- 
erts were  not  without  their  attractions.  But  it  remained  for 
California  to  give  the  tourists  the  biggest  surprises. 

After  a  hard  and  tiresome  day  the  editors  retired  to 
their  berths  and  dreamless  sleep  on  Saturday  night,  and  the 
"music"  made  by  several  gentlemen  on  the  car,  who  did 
not  snore,  failed  to  keep  them  awake. 


CHAPTER  XII. 

RIVERSIDE — HOME  OF  THE  ORANGES — THE  MAGNOLIAS. 

The  awakening  of  the  editors  on  the  morning  of  Sun- 
day, June  18th,  was  one  of  great  surprise;  one  of  seeming 
enchantment;  for  when  they  retired  to  sleep  the  night  be- 
fore there  were  no  signs  of  a  city,  but  only  vast  fields. 
Now,  when  they  looked  out  of  the  windows  of  their  cars 
they  saw  their  train  was  standing  on  the  streets  of  River- 
side, one  of  the  most  beautiful  cities  in  California,  and  to 
the  right  of  the  train  was  one  of  the  most  beautiful  parks 
imaginable,  filled  with  many  varieties  of  the  tallest  and 
handsomest  palms,  tree  ferns,  tropical  plants,  gorgeous  flow- 


ORANGE  GROVES  AND   MOUNTAINS,   RIVERSIDE. 

81 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 


A  PALATIAL    HOME,   RIVERSIDE. 

ers  and  orange  trees  loaded  with  golden  fruit.  It  seemed 
as  if  the  editors  had  dropped  down  into  Paradise.  It  took 
but  little  time  for  the  editors  to  alight  from  the  train  and 
start  to  investigate  these  unwonted  and,  to  many  unknown, 
beauties  of  nature.  Some  passed  through  the  residental 
streets  beyond,  and  there  they  found  orange  trees  growing 
in  profusion.  One  lady  handed  an  editor  a  garden  rake 
and  told  the  boys  to  help  themselves.  It  did  not  require  a 
second  invitation  of  that  kind,  and  the  editors  were  soon 
raking  the  sweet,  luscious,  juicy  fruit  from  the  trees  in  large 
quantities. 

The  party  took  early  breakfasts  at  the  vatious  hotels 
and  restaurants,  after  which  they  boarded  special  trolley 
cars  provided  by  the  Chamber  of  Commerce  and  proceeded 
to  see  the  sights  of  that  most  beautiful  city,  first  running 
out  Magnolia  Avenue,  so  called  because  it  was  lined  by 
those  beautiful  trees,  loaded  down  with  a  wealth  of  scented 
flowers.  The  fine  sights  of  the  city,  the  places  of  business 

82 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 

and  the  palatial  homes  of  the  people  of  wealth  were  seen. 
The  cars  ran  out  into  the  country,  so  that  the  visitors  might 
see  the  orange  groves  and  orchards.  One  spot  visited  was 
a  high  round  topped  hill  whose  sides  were  terraced  to  the 
foot  and  each  terrace  filled  with  orange  trees  and  loaded 

with  fruit,  some 
green  and  many 
ripe,  on  the  same 
tree.  On  their 
return  to  the  city 
the  party  was  ta- 
ken to  the  Glen- 
wood  Hotel,  one 
of  the  finest  and 
most  completely 
equipped  in  Cali- 
fornia, which  is 
THE  GLENWOOD  HOTEL,  RIVERSIDE.  ^  . 

deal.  All  that  one  needs  to  enjoy  life  at  that  great  cara- 
vansary is  money.  The  hotel  was  originally  an  old  Span- 
ish mission,  and  was  known  for  a  time  as  the  Mission  Ho- 
tel, but  it  soon  outgrew  the  demands  of  the  tourists,  and 
the  new  palatial  building  was  erected  a  few  years  ago.  The 
old  building  still  stands  in  the  grounds,  in  front  of  the  present 
hotel,  and  is  used  as  a  writing  and  waiting  room  for  the 
guests.  In  front  of  this  building  stands  the  original  naval 
orange  tree  imported  from  Brazil.  The  tree  was  trans- 
planted to  its  present  position  a  few  months  ago  by  Presi- 
dent Roosevelt.  At  Riverside  the  tourists  were  in  the  cen- 
tre of  the  orange  district  of  California,  Riverside  county 
alone  having  over  20,000  acres  of  land  devoted  to  the  cul- 

83 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 


AN  ORANGE  PICKING  SCENE,  RIVERSIDE, 
tivation  of  oranges.  All  land  there  is  not  perfectly  adapted 
to  the  culture  of  oranges,  and  for  that  reason  good  orange 
land  sells  as  high  as  $2,000  an  acre,  and  in  some  instances 
has  been  sold  at  a  much  higher  figure.  It  takes  about  ten 
years  for  an  orange  orchard  to  come  to  the  profitable  bear- 
ing age,  and  if  the  land  is  not  all  right  the  "tenderfoot" 
will  loose  all  the  thousands  he  has  invested  in  his  orchard 
of  golden  fruit.  Yet,  when  the  land  is  right,  and  the  orch- 
ard matures  properly,  there  is  a  mint  of  golden  money  in 
the  golden  fruit  for  the  fortunate  possessor  of  the  orchard. 
The  introduction  of  the  seedless  navel  orange  has  revolu- 
tionized the  orange  industry  of  the  United  States,  and  es- 
pecially in  California.  The  first  trees  were  sent  to  this 
country  by  William  Judson,  United  States  Consul  to  Bahia, 
Brazil.  Hearing  an  account  told  by  the  natives  of  a  few  of 
the  trees  bearing  the  seedless  fruit  in  the  swamps  along  the 
Amazon,  he  sent  for  some  of  the  sprigs.  At  first  the  De- 
partment of  Agriculture  did  not  seem  to  pay  much  atten- 

84 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 

tion  to  the  new  trees;  but  when  one  of  them,  which  had 
been  planted  in  California,  bore  some  of  the  delicious  fruit, 
interest  was  aroused,  and  the  industry  had  its  beginning. 
The  yield  in  California  is  worth  millions  annually. 

After  the  sights  of  Riverside  were  exhausted  a  run  of 
50  miles  was  soon  made  by  the  special  train,  and  the  me- 
tropolis of  Southern  California,  the  City  of  Los  Angeles,  was 
reached.  The  run  up  to  the  city  was  through  vast  orch- 
ards of  oranges,  lemons,  olives  and  other  fruits. 


ONE  OF  THE  FINE  PUBLIC  BUILDINGS,   RIVERSIDE. 


85 


CHAPTER   XIII. 

LOS  ANGELES — PASADENA,  THE   BEAUTIFUL — MOUNT 
LOWE — THE  ALPINE  TAVERN. 

ON  arrival  of  the  editorial  train  at  the  Arcade  station, 
Los  Angeles,  the  party  took  the  special  trolley  cars 
in  waiting  and  were  conveyed  to  the  palatial  and  magnifi- 
cent Lankershim  Hotel,  which  was  made  headquarters 
during  the  sojourn  in  that  city.  As  it  was  Sunday  after- 
noon, most  of  the  party  spent  the  time  quietly  resting  at  the 
hotel.  In  the  evening  many  of  the  party  wishing  to  hear 
a  noted  divine,  went  to  the  Presbyterian  Church  to  hear 
Rev.  Frank  Talmage,  son  the  famous  Rev.  Dr.  Dewitt  Tal- 
mage,  preach.  The  boys  were  disappointed,  and  did  not 
hesitate  to  say  that  the  son  could  not  hold  a  candle  to  his 
most  illustrious  father.  It  was  apparently  a  case  of  the  son 
winning  glory  through  the  fame  of  his  father. 

During  the  stay  in  Los  Angeles  the  editors  were  the 
guests  of  the  Chamber  of  Commerce,  composed  of  the  fin- 
est, most  energetic  and  public  spirited  men  we  have  met 
anywhere,  and  each  one  of  them  has  the  advancement  of 
California,  and  especially  of  Los  Angeles,  at  heart,  and  is 
full  of  information,  facts  and  figures  touching  the  growth 
and  possibilities  of  that  favored  land  with  which  to  interest 
and  entertain  their  visitors.  It  goes  without  the  saying 
that  the  members  of  the  Chamber  of  Commerce  acquitted 
themselves  royally  in  the  entertainment  of  their  guests. 

86 


H 

O 
^ 

I 


§ 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 


THE  RESDENCE  OF  DR.  A.   C.   BRIGGS,   PASADENA. 

Monday  morning,  June  19th,  the  entire  party  was 
taken  out  on  trolley  cars  to  Pasadena,  a  short  distance 
from  Los  Angeles,  which  is  filled  with  palatial  houses,  and 
is  said  to  be  the  wealthiest  city  of  its  size  in  the  United 
States,  if  not  in  the  world.  Like  New  York,  it  has  is  mil- 
lionaire row,  of  palaces  of  the  very  wealthy. 

The  name  Pasadena  is  derived  from  the  Spanish 
words  Paso  de  Eden  (the  Threshold  of  Eden)  and  well 
might  one  think  it  was  Eden,  for  there  is  the  bright  sky, 
the  most  beautiful  flowers,  the  rare  palms  and  magnificent 
tropical  trees,  the  beautiful  and  radiant  valley  stretching 
mile  upon  mile  below,  and  the  homes  of  beauty  and  gran- 
deur. Among  the  celebrities  who  dwell  there  are  the  fam- 
ous Bob  Burdette,  the  brilliant  lecturer,  of  Burlington  Hawk- 

87 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 

eye  fame,  who  is  now  a  noted  Baptist  divine,  and  Mrs. 
James  Garfield,  widow  of  the  martyred  president.  Next 
the  modest  cottage  of  Mrs.  Garfield,  by  strange  irony  of 
fate,  stands  the  palatial  home  of  the  sister  of  Guiteau,  the 
notorious. 

One  of  the  sights  of  Pasadena  is  the  magnificent,  royal 
hotel,  The  Raymond,  one  of  the  most  luxuriously  appointed 
hotels  in  the  world.  That  hotel  was  built  to  cater  to  "par- 
ticular people  with  means,"  and  that  means  you  can  have 
all  the  luxurious  comforts  home,  but  you  must  pay  for  your 
entertainment  with  plenty  of  ready  cash.  The  hotel  is  sit- 
uated on  quite  a  hill,  about  a  mile  outside  of  the  city  of 
Pasadena,  and  has  a  commanding  view  of  the  beautiful 


THE  HOTEL  RAYMOND,   PASADENA. 

88 


a 


9 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 


San  Gabriel  Valley.  Although  the  hotel  is  located  on  a 
hill,  no  climbing  is  necessary  to  reach  it.  Guests  enter  a 
tunnel,  or  subway,  at  the  foot  of  the  hill  running  305  feet 
straight  into  the  earth.  At  the  end  of  the  subway,  which 
is  lighted  by  electricity  and  adorned  with  rows  of  potted 

flowers    and  palms,  are   the 
elevators    which    carry   the 
guests  to  the  hotel  rotunda. 
Upon  entering  the  hotel  one 
is  charmed  with  its  appoint- 
ments.    All  are  in  exquisite 
taste  and   on  a  lavish  scale. 
The  hotel  library  for  the  free 
use  of  the  guests   has   over 
500  volumes  on   its  shelves. 
The  trolleys  took  the  editors 
to  the  foot  of  Mount  Lowe, 
where    an    incline     railway 
3,000  feet  long  landed  them 
on  the  top  of   Echo  Moun- 
tain.    The  incline,  with  its 
topless  cars,  was  a  thing  of 
terror  to  the  timid.     It  rises 
to  an  altitude  of    1,400  feet 
THE  MOUNT  LOWE  INCLINE  and  most  of  the  way  up  the 
ELECTRIC  RAILWAY.          grade  is  62  per  cent  per  100 
feet.     At  the  top  another  set  of   trolley  cars  were  boarded 
for  what   proved  to  be  a   terrifying  ride  to   the  top  of    the 
mountain,  on  which  stands  the  Alpine  Tavern,  over  a  mile 
above  the  sea.     The  road  is  five  miles  long,  and  has  in  it 
no  less  than  300  curves,  while  the  longest  piece  of  straight 

89 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 

track  is  225  feet.  The  road  as  it  ascends  the  mountain 
winds  through  gorges  and  along  the  edges  of  the  most  pre- 
cipitous cliffs,  by  the  side  of  dark  and  cavernous  chasms, 
which  follow  each  other  in  rapid  succession,  and  many  of 
the  men  in  the  party,  as  well  as  the  ladies,  were  so  wrought 
up  by  the  dangerous  ride  that  they  were  unable  to  eat  the 
excellent  dinner  that  had  deen  provided  at  the  Alpine  Tav- 
ern. It  was  intimated  that  even  the  two  gray  headed  vet- 
erans from  Armstrong  county  were  so  badly  frightened  that 
they  had  recourse  to  the  forgotten  supplications  of  their 
youth.  To  those  who  could  enjoy  the  ride  it  was  a  rich 
and  rare  treat.  The  panorama,  as  the  road  ascended  the 
mountains,  of  the  valleys,  hills  and  mountains  spread  out  in 
a  picturesque,  and  grand  scene,  thrilling  the  spectator  and 
filling  him  with  wonder,  pleasure  and  delight — a  scene  is 
presented  beyond  words  to  describe.  At  every  curve  in 
the  road  a  new  picture  of  the  beauty  of  Nature's  creation 
was  presented.  Close  by  were  the  rugged  mountains;  the 
chasms,  precipices  and  gorges,  while  6,000  feet  below,  in 
the  valley,  spread  the  farms,  vineyards  and  orange  groves. 
The  Alpine  Tavern,  where  the  dinner  was  served,  is  a 
quaint  structure,  built  after  the  style  of  the  Swiss  chalets  so 
familiar  to  the  traveler  on  the  Alps  in  Switzerland.  From 
the  Tavern  and  Prophet  Point,  on  a  clear  day,  can  be  seen 
a  magnificent  vista  stretching  up  to  Los  Angeles  and  miles 
beyond  to  the  channel  islands  in  the  sea. 

The  descent  of  the  mountain  was  even  more  terrifying 
than  the  ascent;  for  as  the  passenger  sat  looking  down  the 
the  mountain  it  seemed  as  if  every  moment  the  cars  must 
leave  the  rails.  Yet  the  descent  was  safely  made,  and 
none  were  any  worse  for  the  trip,  except  those  who  lost 

90 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST, 


their  fine  dinner.  On  returning  to  Pasadena  the  Chamber 
of  Commerce  took  the  editors  around  in  carriages  to  see 
those  portions  of  the  city  that  cannot  be  seen  from  the  trol- 
leys, and  the  palaces  of  the  rich,  with  their  lawns  filled  with 
flowers,  palms  and  all  kinds  of  tropical  trees,  and  fuchias 
and  rose  bushes  that  were  veritable  trees,  were  viewed  with 
pleasure.  There  is  not  another  city  of  its  size  in  the  country 
so  well  supplied  with  hotels  as  is  Pasadena,  for  in  addition 
to  The  Raymond,  already  referred  to,  it  has  the  palatial 

Hotel  Green, 
with  its  six 
stories,  which 
occupies  two 
city  blocks, 
and  has  all 
the  comforts 
so  much  de- 
sired by  ex- 
THE  HOTEL  GREEN.  travagant 

Americans,  and  was  erected  at  a  cost  of  over  $1,000,000. 
Then  there  is  the  beautiful  Hotel  La  Pentoresca,  accommo- 
dating about  500  guests;  while  there  are  also  dozens  of 
fine,  but  smaller,  hotels  where  all  kinds  of  accommodations 
can  be  had  at  all  scales  of  prices. 

At  South  Pasadena  is  an  unique  business  enterprise — 
The  Ostrich  Farm.  It  is  the  only  farm  of  the  kind  out- 
side of  the  sandy  deserts  of  Africa.  Here  there  is  a  flock 
of  about  200  ostriches — from  the  freshly  hatched  chicks  to 
the  full-grown  birds.  The  company  owning  the  farm  do  a 
large  and  profitable  business  in  the  sale  of  the  "plumes" 
and  various  articles  made  from  the  feathers  of  the  birds. 

91 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 


THE  HOME  OF  ADOLPH    BUSCH,  PASADENA. 

There  is  no  winter  there  as  we  know  it  in  the  East, 
for  the  mean  annual  temperature  does  not  vary  much  from 
60  degrees.  Pasadena  has  been  justly  called  the  "City 
Beautiful."  Speaking  of  winter  there  a  visiting  poet  said: 

Across  the  lawn  and  past  the  flowing  fountain, 
A  bare-foot  boy  chasing  butterflies, 

My  childhood's  terror  has  become  an  angel, 
Winter  and  I  have  met  in  Paradise. 

Pasadena,  on  each  recurring  New  Year's  day,  has  a 
magnificent  celebration  that  draws  thousands  of  visitors 
from  far  and  near  to  its  hospitable  borders.  It  is  called  the 
"Tournament  of  Roses."  It  opens  up  in  the  morning  with 
a  long  procession  of  carriages,  automobiles,  pony  carts, 
donkey  carts  and  vehicles  of  every  description,  all  profuse- 

92 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 

ly,  beautifully  and  artistically  decorated — aye,  smothered 
in  the  most  gorgeous,  beautiful  and  fragrant  roses.  Then 
follows  the  "Battle  of  Flowers,"  engaged  in  by  the  white 
and  hoary-headed  sage,  as  well  as  the  smallest  tottering 
child.  Once  seen,  this  beautiful  pageant  will  never  be  for- 
gotten. In  the  afternoon  are  held  the  exciting  chariot  ra- 
ces, and  the  gaiety  of  the  day  finds  a  fitting  climax  in  the 
grand  ball  in  the  evening,  where  is  seen  not  only  the  youth 
and  beauty  and  wealth  of  California,  but  of  many  a  sister 
state  and  foreign  country. 

Pasadena  has  a  special  city  charter  which  does  not 
allow  a  single  liquor  saloon  to  be  opened  in  the  city,  hence 
the  chief  of  police  and  his  subordinates  are  very  much  like 


A  GLIMPSE  OF    THE  HOTEL    MARYLAND. 

93 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 

soldiers  on  dress  parade,  with  little  or  nothing  to  do. 
After  the  drive  encircling  the  city  the  editorial  party 
was  escorted  to  the  magnificent  Hotel  Maryland,  and 
tendered  an  elegant  reception  by  the  citizens  of  Pasadena. 
At  the  conclusion  of  that  function,  the  party  took  the  trol- 
ley cars  and  returned  to  their  hotel  in  Los  Angeles.  Mr. 
Warren  White,  editor  of  The  Journal,  Los  Angeles7  most 
popular  and  influential  daily  paper,  tendered  the  party  one 
of  the  most  enjoyable  receptions  of  the  trip  at  his  hand- 
some home  in  the  suburbs  of  the  city.  The  White  man- 
sion stands  in  a  large  private  park  of  over  two  acres  in  ex- 
tent, which  is  adorned  with  all  kinds  of  beautiful  and  gor- 
geous flowers  and  palms,  ferns  and  tropical  plants,  making 
it  a  veritable  bower  of  beauty.  The  enchantment  of  the 
scene  was  enhanced  by  hundreds  of  electric  lights  scattered 
through  all  parts  of  the  grounds,  while  a  fine  orchestra 
hidden  in  the  shadows  poured  forth  strains  of  sweet  music. 
Just  enough  bright  speeches  were  delivered  to  promote  the 
harmony  of  the  gathering,  and  a  most  generous  amount  of 
refreshments  were  served  to  make  every  one  feel  good  and 
happy.  Brother  White  played  the  part  of  host  to  perfec- 
tion, and  no  one  hesitated  to  vote  him  a  "white"  man  and 
a  jolly  good  fellow.  May  his  good  fortune  continue  and 
his  shadow  never  grow  less  is  the  ardent  wish  of  the  N.  E.  A. 


94 


§ 


if    o 


CHAPTER   XIV. 

SANTA  CATALINA  ISLAND — THE    MARINE    GARDENS— 
THE  LEAPING  TUNA. 

r~T^UESDAY  morning,  June  20th,  found  all  the  editors 
_L  Stirring  early,  preparing  for  an  experience  new  to  most 
of  them — a  ride  on  the  briny  deep — the  Pacific  Ocean.  A 
special  train  conveyed  the  party  to  San  Pedro,  a  shore 
town,  on  the  Pacific  Ocean,  a  distance  of  15  miles  from 
Los  Angeles,  where  they  were  soon  hustled  on  board  a 
small  steamer  for  a  27-mile  ride  out  on  the  ocean  to  the 
famous  Santa  Catalina  Island.  The  ride  was  much  enjoy- 
ed by  the  few  who  had  good  safe  stomachs  and  easy  con- 
sciences, but  the  poor  fellows  who  had  a  past  and  decidedly 
uneasy  consciences  paid  tribute  to  Neptune  in  no  uncertain 
way.  These  latter  ones  were  so  miserable  that  they  smiled 
not,  nor  noticed  neither  friend  nor  foe.  All  that  they  de- 
sired was  to  be  left  alone  in  their  misery.  They  had  all 
the  qualms  of  the  genuine  "mal  de  mere."  First  they  had 
chills  playing  foot  ball  up  and  down  their  spines;  then  they 
burnt  up  with  fever;  later  they  donated  their  breakfast  and 
every  other  loose  thing  to  the  mighty  deep.  In  the  first 
stage  they  feared  they  were  going  to  die — next  they  did 
not  care  whether  they  died  or  not,  and  at  last  they  wanted  to 
die.  The  good  sailors  of  the  party  were  merciless  in  their 
chaffing  of  their  less  fortunate  comrades,  and  suggested  all 
manner  of  good  things  to  eat  to  their  great  agony  and  dis- 

95 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 


tress  of  stomach.  One  poor  fellow  who  had  struggled  hard 
to  save  part  of  his  anatomy  from  the  cruel  waves,  was  af- 
fronted by  his  better-half,  who  came  upon  the  deck  and 
asked  him: — 
"Robert,  have 
the  children 
come  up  yet?" 
He  paused 
long  enough 
in  his  strug- 
gles to  reply 
in  an  aggriev- 
ed tone:  "I 
don't  know  a 
d — n  thing 
about  the  chil- 
dren,but  every 
thing  else  has 
come  up." 
Many  of  our 

party  for  some  < 

years  cherish-  § 

ed  fond  dream 
of  the  delights 
of  a  voyage 
across  the 
broad  Atlant- 
ic to  view 

Cathy's  fabled  shore;  but  a  few  hours  on  the  bosom  of  the 
calm  Pacific  shattered  this  dream  into  infinitesimal  frag- 
ments. The  ocean  for  them  was  no  longer  blue,  but  ugly, 

96 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 

green,  salty  and  decidedly  shaky.  The  charms  of  a  life 
on  the  ocean  wave  were  gone,  and  they  at  once  gave  up 
hopes  of  seeing  Europe  until  the  bridge  be  built  across 
Behring  Strait,  when  they  can  travel  on  the  train  "de  luxe." 
If  there  had  been  any  dry  way  of  walking  back  those  fel- 
lows would  not  have  again  trusted  their  bodies  and  fortunes 
to  that  shaky  boat  for  the  return  trip.  The  truth  of  the 
matter  is  the  waves  were  calm — they  were  only  little  baby 
waves,  and  it  is  thought  that  some  of  the  editors  grew  sick 
at  seeing  so  much  "unmixed"  water  at  one  time.  They 
even  did  not  have  time  to  watch  the  flying  fish  which  were 
skimming  plentifully  about  the  ship  all  the  way  out.  These 
fish  use  their  four  peculiar  shaped  fins  for  sailing  over  the 
water,  and  go  as  far  as  400  feet  in  a  single  flight.  They 
average  from  12  to  18  inches  long. 

The  objective  point  of  the  voyage  was  Avalon,  the 
main  town  and  port  of  Santa  Catalina  Island,  located  on  a 
beautiful,  natural  land-locked  harbor.  The  island  is  about 
30  miles  long  and  its  area  is  40,000  acres.  It  is  an  im- 
mense mountain,  with  sloping  sides,  which  has  been  thrust 
up  out  of  the  depths  of  the  Pacific  Ocean  by  some  volcanic 
action,  and  is  a  place  of  great  beauty.  It  abounds  in  game 
and  the  waters  surrounding  it  are  full  of  fish,  large  and 
small,  including  the  great  leaping  tuna,  running  in  weight 
to  300  pounds,  making  the  place  a  ideal  sportsman's  para- 
dise. 

Avalon  has  its  Tuna   Club  of  150  members.     Each 

season  a  gold  medal  is  awarded  the  member  who  lands  the 
biggest  tuna.  It  is  claimed  that  one  tuna  is  the  equal  of 
two  or  three  tarpon  in  point  of  strength.  It  takes  from  30 
minutes  to  seven  hours  to  land  one  of  those  "kings  of  the 

97 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST, 


PORT  AND   STEAMER    LANDING,  AVALON. 

deep,"  and  they  have  been  known  to  tow  a  boat  20  miles 
before  they  would  give  up  the  fight.  The  record  catches 
with  rod  and  reel  for  single  fish  are  as  follows: 

Col.  C.  P.  Moorehouse.  Pasadena,  251   pounds 

Mrs.  E.  N.  Dickinson,  New  York,  216 

John  E.  Stearns,  Los  Angeles,  197 

Charles  F.  Holder,  Pasadena,  183 

The  ocean  water  is  so  clear  and  calm  in  the  bay  at 
Avalon  that  the  beautiful  marine  growths  can  be  distinctly 
seen  at  a  depth  of  ISO  feet  from  the  glass-bottomed  boats 
provided  for  that  purpose.  The  growth  on  the  ocean's  bot- 
tom there  of  ferns,  mosses  and  sea  weeds,  some  40  and  50 
feet  tall,  are  so  beautifully  colored  in  rich  and  harmonious 
hues  and  tints,  and  of  peculiar  and  fantastic  shapes,  that 
they  are  appropriately  called  sub-marine  gardens.  It  seems 
strange  that  nature  should  be  so  prodigal  with  such  rich 
colorings  so  deep  beneath  the  ocean  waves,  and  when  one 
holds  a  piece  of  moss  colored  in  the  most  delicate  shades  of 
blue  and  purple  it  is  hard  to  realize  that  its  home  was  deep 

98 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST, 

beneath  the  salty  waves.  The  abalone  shells  gathered  on 
the  shores  of  the  island  and  under  the  water  are  most  quaint 
and  beautiful,  tinted,  as  they  are,  with  all  the  delicate  hues 
of  the  rainbow.  From  these  shells  are  made  all  sorts  of 
souvenirs,  including  stick-pins  and  other  sorts  of  jewelry. 

The  flesh  of  the  abalone  sometimes  weighs  as  much  as 
two  pounds.  It  is  much  esteemed  for  food  by  the  Chinese 
and  Japanese,  and  it  is  dried  and  shipped  in  great  quanti- 
ties to  the  Orient.  An  American  company  now  operates  a 
large  cannery  at  Cayucos,  California,  where  they  prepare, 
can  and  ship  large  quantities  of  cooked  and  also  dried  aba- 
lor.es  for  the  home  and  foreign  markets.  By  many  the  ab- 
alone is  regarded  as  a  much  cleaner,  wholesome  and  deli- 
cate feed  than  the  oyster. 

There  is  fine  still  water  bathing  and  the  Hotel  Metropole 
affords  first-class  accommodations  for  visitors,  making  the 
island  a  fine  winter,  as  well  as  summer  resort.  There  is 
always  a  crowd  of  boys,  who  are  expert  divers,  at  the  bath- 
ing places,  ready  to  dive  from  the  boats  into  the  deep  water 
after  the  dimes  and  nickles  which  the  visitors  may  throw  in. 
The  entire  island  is  owned  by  one  man,  who  is  making  a 
mint  of  it  and  its  attractions  for  strangers,  and  his  resour- 
ces from  the  people  to  whom  he  grants  concessions  are 
enormous.  After  a  few  hours  spent  most  pleasantly  on  the 
island  the  editors  re-embarked  and  returned  to  Los  Angeles. 

A  hundred  miles  and  more  to  the  south  of  Los  Ange- 
les, on  a  beautiful  bay,  which  glows  like  a  golden  mirror  in 
the  sunshine,  is  the  ancient  and  attractive  city  of  San  Diego, 
which  has  become  a  most  popular  winter  play-ground  for 
tourists  from  all  part  of  the  world.  Here  it  was  in  the  hot 
summer  that  the  valiant  and  saintly  Padre  Junipero  Serra 

99 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 

landed,  and  on  July  16th,  1769,  founded  the  Mission  San 
Diego  de  Alcala,  the  first  of  the  2 1  Spanish  missions  which 
in  after  years  did  so  much  for  the  conquest  and  civilization 
of  that  country. 

That  colony  flourished,  and  on  November  1st,  1776, 
Father  Serra  established  nearby  the  Mission  San  Juan  de 
Capistrano,  which  now  has  fallen  into  a  beautiful  and  pa- 
thetic ruin.  Out  on  a  small  island  in  the  Pacific  Ocean, 
scarce  a  mile  from  the  shore,  is  erected  the  pretentious  and 
mammoth  Hotel  Del  Coronado,  one  of  California's  most 
famous  and  popular  caravansaries.  Here  could  be  most 
comfortably  accommodated  in  regal  style  a  whole  regiment 
of  guests  at  one  time. 


100 


s 


a 

i— < 

Q 


w 


CHAPTER  XV. 

LOS  ANGELES — THE  CITY  OF  ANGELS — ITS   POWER 
AND   BEAUTY. 

"  I  ^HE  evening  in  Los  Angeles  was  taken  up  by  the  final 
X  reception  given  by  the  Chamber  Commerce  in  their 
handsome  building  on  Broadway,  and  it  was  a  very  pleas- 
ant affair.  Many  happy  speeches  were  made,  light  lunch 
was  served  and  sweet  music  by  an  orchestra  enlivened  the 
occasion.  The  reception  took  place  in  the  museum  room, 
a  very  fine  and  complete  apartment,  filled  with  all  manner 
of  relics  and  curios  typical  of  the  early  days  of  California, 
during  the  period  of  Spanish  domination.  There  is  also  a 
complete  display  of  all  the  fruits,  products,  minerals,  woods 
and  fauna  of  the  State,  particularly  of  that  section.  Here, 
in  a  few  hours,  can  be  learned  all  about  the  resources  and 
possibilities  of  the  Golden  State. 

The  town,  or  pueblo  of  Los  Angeles,  as  the  Spaniards 
called  their  towns,  had  a  romantic  commencement,  and  its 
first  name  was  Ruestra  Senora  la  Reina  de  Los  Angeles — 
"Our  Lady,  the  Queen  of  the  Angels."  The  town  was 
founded  September  4th,  1771,  by  a  small  band  of  Spanish 
pobladores,  or  colonists,  and  from  that  small  beginning  it 
has  grown  to  be  a  magnificent  city  of  200,000  souls.  It 
has  over  350  miles  of  graded  streets,  25  miles  of  paved 
streets,  and  is  the  commercial  metropolis  of  Southern  Cali- 
fornia. The  principal  exports  are  fruits,  fresh  and  dried, 

101 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 


vegetables,  beans, 
wine  and  brandy, 
wool,  honey,  canned 
goods,  sugar,  wheat, 
corn  and  barley.  Its 
banks'  deposits  ap- 
proximate $70,000,- 
000,  and  in  1904 
the  bank  clearaces 
amounted  to  over 
$335,000,000.  The 
assessed  valuation 
of  property  runs  over 
$150,000,000;  this, 
on  a  basis  of  one- 
third  valuation, 
would  show  real  es- 
tate worth  about 
$450,000,000.  It 
has  four  trans-cont- 
inental lines  enter- 
ing the  city — the 
Southern  P  a  c  i  fi  c 
Railway,  the  Santa 
Fe  Railroad  the  A  STREET  SCENE  IN  JANUARY, 
Sunset  Route  and  LOS  ANGELES. 

San  Pedro,  Los  Angeles  and  Salt  Lake  Railroad.  It  also 
has  a  deep  water  harbor  at  San  Pedro  on  the  Pacific  Ocean, 
15  miles  from  the  city,  from  whence  its  products  are  shipped 
to  the  uttermost  parts  of  the  earth. 

The  city  is  one  of   the  best   lighted   in   the  world,  its 

102 


n 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 

lighting  being  done  by  an  admirable  system  of  electric 
lights  extending  all  over  the  city.  Many  of  the  lights  are 
placed  on  exceedingly  high  masts,  and  seen  from  one  of 
the  surrounding  hills,  the  view  of  the  city  at  night  is  strik- 
ingly beautiful.  Broadway,  there,  is  the  most  brilliantly 
lighted  street  in  the  world.  It  is  lined  from  one  end  to  the 
other  with  handsome  electroliers,  50  feet  apart,  on  which 
are  clusters  of  three  large  frosted  globes  in  which  shine 
brilliant  and  strong  incandescent  lights,  making  the  thor- 
oughfare as  light  as  day. 

One  need  not  walk  in  Los  Angeles  for  lack  of  cars, 
for  there  are  over  200  miles  of  well  equipped  electric  lines 
in  the  city.  There  are  also  excellent  suburban  trolley  lines 
running  to  Santa  Monica,  Redondo,  Long  Beach,  Pasa- 
dena, Altadena,  San  Pedro,  Alhambra,  San  Gabriel,  Mon- 
rovia, Whittier  and  Glendale.  A  project  is  on  foot  to  build 
an  extensive  suburban  belt  line  taking  in  all  the  towns 
within  a  radius  of  30  miles  of  Los  Angeles. 

There  are  a  dozen  fine  parks  within  the  city  limits, 
having  a  total  area  of  over  600  acres.  The  city  also  owns 
Elysian  Park,  containing  some  500  acres,  which  they  ex- 
pect to  greatly  improve  and  make  one  of  the  finest  munici- 
pal parks  in  the  land. 

It  is  a  city  of  handsome  homes,  of  the  most  beautiful 
gardens  in  the  world,  and  the  mild  climate  enables  them  to 
raise  the  most  delicate  plants  and  flowers,  while  all  manner 
of  tropical  plants,  flowers  and  ferns  thrive  there  and  obtain 
a  most  brilliant  beauty.  At  Christmas  time  may  be  seen 
hedges  of  calla  lilies  in  bloom  and  rose  and  geranium  trees 
10  and  15  feet  high  crowned  with  a  wealth  of  beautiful 
flowers.  All  the  residences  stand  far  back  from  the  street 

103 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 


TROPICAL  PALM    HOME,   LOS    ANGELES. 

line  on  well-kept  lawns.  There  is  no  winter  and  no  hot 
summer  in  Los  Angeles.  They  have  what  they  call  an 
"all-the-year-'round  climate,"  that  is,  no  extremes  of  either 
heat  or  cold.  There  is  always  a  pleasant  breeze  coming 
inland  from  the  ocean,  and  a  record  of  the  thermometer  for 
10  years  shows  their  hottest  day  to  have  been  97  in  Sep- 
tember, and  the  coldest  day  to  have  been  34  above  zero  in 
January.  Certainly  it  is,  as  the  Angelesians  say,  an  ideal 
climate  to  bring  health,  comfort  and  happiness  to  all  who 
are  fortunate  enough  to  live  in  it. 

The  business  houses  are  many  and  large,  and  devoted 
to  all  lines  of  commercial  trade.  Last  year  there  were 
shipped  from  Southern  California  no  less  than  28,000  car 
loads  of  lemons  and  oranges.  In  the  neighborhood  of  the 
city  hundreds  of  acres  are  devoted  to  the  culture  of  celery, 
which  is  shipped  to  the  East  by  the  train  loads.  A  few 

104 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 

miles  out  in  the  country  the  eyes  of  the  traveler  meet  with 
a  surprising  and  beautiful  sight.  It  is  nothing  less  than 
acre  upon  acre  crowned  with  calla  lilies,  tuberoses,  carna- 
tions and  numerous  other  varieties  of  beautiful  flowers,  be- 
ing raised  thus  outdoors  wholesale  for  the  markets.  They 
are  sold  as  cut  flowers,  while  the  bulbs  and  seeds  are  ship- 
ped in  great  quantities  to  the  Eastern  markets. 

The  prices  of  farm  lands  in  the  vicinity  of  Los  Ange- 
les ranges  from  $30  to  $100  per  acre  for  hay  and  wheat 
land,  to  $250  to  $300  for  irrigated  land  adapted  to  fruit 
culture.  A  short  distance  south  of  Los  Angeles  are  highly 
productive  oil  fields.  Last  year  Southern  California  alone 
produced  close  to  28,000,000  barrels  of  oil.  The  California 
oil  is  much  heavier  than  the  eastern  oil,  and  is  especially 
well  adapted  for  fuel.  It  is  said  that  this  fuel  oil  at  $1  per 
barrel  is  equivalent  to  a  ton  of  coal  at  $4  per  ton.  Their 
oil  is  now  being  used  extensively  on  the  railroads,  and  also 
in  the  manufactories,  and  makes  a  cheap  and  very  clean 
fuel.  The  oil  fuel  is  surely  destined  to  make  a  radical 
change  in  the  near  future  in  manufacturing  and  power  pro- 
ducing plants. 

Although  it  is  only  a  little  over  10  years  since  oil  was 
first  discovered  in  California,  the  State  from  the  fields  in  the 
Newhall,  Los  Angeles,  Santa  Barbara,  Kean,  King  and 
Fresno  districts  is  producing  annually  upwards  of  50,000,- 
000  barrels  of  oil.  It  is  true  that  the  California  oil  is  not 
of  the  same  grade  as  the  Pennsylvania  product,  but  it 
makes  a  fine  lubricant,  and  is  a  most  excellent  and  power- 
ful fuel. 

Los  Angeles  is  about  to  tussle  with  the  drink  question 
in  a  novel  manner.  The  problem  is  to  be  met  and  carried 

105 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 


THE  PALM  BOULEVARD,  LOS  ANGELES. 

out  as  a  cold  business  proposition.  A  syndicate  of  25 
prominent  business  men — bankers,  merchants,  lawyers  and 
capitalists,  has  been  formed  to  take  over  all  the  200  licenses 
now  in  force  to  sell  liquor  in  the  city.  It  not  is  a  scheme 
for  the  purpose  of  making  money,  but  a  plan  to  adopt  the 
Gothenburg  (Sweden)  system  of  controling  the  liquor  traffic 
in  order  to  minimize  its  evils.  The  syndicate  is  to  close 
130  of  the  present  200  saloons,  run  the  remaining  70  and 
pay  the  city  the  same  license  fee  as  it  receives  from  the  200. 
All  profits  in  excess  of  six  per  cent  will  be  paid  into  the 
city  treasury  for  the- purpose  of  decreasing  taxation  and  of 
increasing  school  facilities  and  improving  the  parks.  The 
syndicate  will  pay  annually  to  the  city  $252,000  in  license 
fees  for  their  70  saloons.  They  will  sell  none  but  the  purest 

106 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 


liquors.  No  liquor 
will  be  sold  minors, 
persons  of  known  in- 
temperate habits, 
drunkards,  women 
or  on  Sundays.  No 
games  will  be  al- 
lowed in  the  saloons. 
No  seats  or  tables 
will  be  permitted  in 
the  saloons.  The 
outcome  of  this  pro- 
ject in  Los  Angeles 
will  be  eagerly 
watched  by  the  coun- 
try at  large. 

The  plan  has  been 
carried    out    with 
great   success    in 
Gothenburg    for  50 
years.     After    three 
AN  AVENUE  OF  PAN  PALMS,  LOS      days  full  of  joy,  com- 
ANGELES.  fort  and  pleasure  the 

editors  left  Los  Angeles  with  keen  regret  early  Wednesday 
morning,  June  21st,  for  the  next  break  in  the  tour  at  Santa 
Barbara,  California,  some  110  miles  northwest  of  Los  An- 
geles, on  the  coast  of  the  Pacific  Ocean.  The  ride  up 
that  morning,  with  the  ocean  breezes  fanning  our  cheeks, 
was  delightful.  On  the  way  we  passed  through  some  of 
California's  most  productive  oil  fields,  and  the  sight  was 
interesting,  but  the  smell  of  the  crude  oil  was  vile.  A 

107 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 

short  distance  from  Santa  Barbara,  at  Summerland,  once  a 
fashionable  bathing  resort,  we  passed  the  strangest  oil  field 
in  the  world,  and  saw  out  in  the  ocean  derrick  after  derrick 
rising  out  of  the  waves.  Just  think  of  it !  sinking  oil  wells 
down  through  the  briny  deep  to  bring  up  the  oil.  It  seemed 
an  impossible  enterprise,  yet  there  were  the  derricks,  with 
the  wells  underneath,  flowing  oil.  We  were  told  that  these 
wells  were  very  good  ones,  and  were  producing  thousands 
of  barrels  of  oil  daily.  The  whole  thing  showed  what  ap- 
parently impossible  things  the  Yankee  can  do  if  he  hustles. 


THE  HOTEL  LANKERSHIM, 
LOS  ANGELES. 


108 


o 
p 

3 


z 

o 

t— I 

o 

8 

£ 

J2I 

p 
o 

HH 

> 


CHAPTER   XVI. 

SANTA  BARBARA — THE  INCOMPARABLE — THE  NEWPORT 
OF  THE    PACIFIC. 

ABOUT  noon  our  special  pulled  into  Santa  Barbara, 
the  incomparable,  the  Newport  of  the  Pacific  Coast. 
By  this  time  the  editorial  mind  dwelt  more  on  the  good 
things  to  eat  than  of  sight-seeing,  so  they  rushed  off  to  the 
palatial  Potter  Hotel,  where  an  elaborate  luncheon  was 
served.  This  is  one  of  the  finest  of  the  California  resort 
hotels,  and  was  erected  at  a  cost  of  something  over  a  mil- 
lion and  half  dollars.  At  a  pinch  it  could  accommodate 
1,600  guests.  It  has  two  immense  dining  rooms,  each  of 
which  will  accommodate  500  persons  at  a  sitting.  The 
Potter  is  situated  a  short  distance  back  from  the  beach  in 
the  midst  of  a  beautiful  little  park,  in  which  are  all  manner 
of  shrubs,  bushes,  palms,  plants  and  flowers,  and  they  have 
no  less  than  30,000  rose  bushes  that  bloom  all  year  around, 
and  also  40,000  calla  lilies  in  bloom.  The  hotel  is  inde- 
pendent of  the  markets.  For  its  supplies  it  has  a  large 
ranch  of  its  own  from  which  comes  its  cream,  milk,  butter 
and  eggs,  chickens,  ducks,  pigeons,  squabs,  vegetables,  etc. 
At  the  squab  ranch  they  raise  annually  thousands  of  deli- 
cate, delicious  squabs  to  tickle  the  palates  of  their  guests. 
The  hotel  employs  from  300  to  400  people  continually,  and 
has  everything  at  its  command  and  within  its  control  for 
all  the  wants  of  its  guests.  Although  the  hotel  has  been 

109 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 


THE  SPANISH   MISSION,   SANTA  BARBARA. 

open  only  about  three  years,  it  has  become  famous,  and  has 
had  phenomenal  success.  After  the  luncheon  the  Santa 
Barbara  Chamber  of  Commerce  provided  carriages  to  take 
the  visitors  around  the  town,  to  the  old  Spanish  mission  and 
to  drive  up  over  the  mountains  to  Miramar. 

The  first  stop  was  made  at  the  Santa  Barbara  Mission, 
one  of  the  quaintest  and  most  picturesque  missions  on  the 
coast.  The  mission  was  founded  on  December  4,  1786, 
by  Father  Fermin  Lasuen,  one  of  the  Franciscan  Fathers, 
and  it  shows  but  little  traces  of  the  120  years  of  use.  The 
walls  are  still  staunch  and  strong,  the  red  roof  tiles  perfect, 
and  the  beautiful  paintings  in  the  church  are  wonderfully 
fresh  and  well  preserved.  The  stone  steps  leading  into  the 
church  have  been  worn  in  holes  by  the  footsteps  of  peni- 
tent worshipers  and  curious  tourists. 

The  work  of  building  the  mission  was  carefully  done, 
but  it  was  slow  and  tedious.  The  labor  was  done  by  the 

110 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 

friars,  assisted  by  the  Indian  converts,  to  whom  fell  the 
drudgery.  The  walls  are  of  solid  masonry  and  are  from  six 
to  ten  feet  thick.  The  stone  and  timbers  were  prepared  by 
the  crudest  instruments  and  carried  for  miles  on  the  backs 
of  the  Indians.  The  mission  proper  is  165  feet  long,  40 
feet  wide  and  30  feet  high,  and  all  roofed  with  red  sun- 
burned tiles. 

The  whole  mission  is  surrounded  by  a  20-foot  wall, 
enclosing  the  buildings  and  a  large  court  yard,  in  which 
are  buried  many  Brothers  and  about  5,000  Mexican  and 
Indian  converts.  Connected  with  the  mission  is  a  monas- 
tery in  which  live  about  40  of  the  brown-coated  and  bare- 
footed brothers  of  St.  Francis,  who  care  for  the  mission  and 
hold  services  there  every  day  in  the  year.  It  is  said  that 
the  altar,  fire,  which  was  kindled  there  120  years  ago  by 
Father  Lasuen  has  never  been  suffered  to  go  out  from  that 
day  to  this,  so  zealously  has  its  sacred  flame  been  watched. 
The  mission,  since  its  foundation  to  the  present  time,  has 
been  in  the  control  and  occupancy  of  the  Franciscan  Fath- 
ers. The  church,  school  and  relic  house  are  always  open 
for  visitors,  and  venerable  monks  received  our  party  kindly 
and  conducted  us  through  the  buildings,  explaining  every- 
thing, and  even  answering  the  most  irreverent  questions 
with  dignity  and  kindness. 

The  ever-present  charity  box  is  evident  in  all  the 
buildings  to  receive  the  shekels,  large  and  small,  of  the 
charitably  disposed.  It  is  true  that  all  do  not  see  or  stop 
at  these  boxes. 

The  most  of  the  work  on  the  mission  buildings  was 
done  by  converted  Indians,  under  the  direction  of  the  fath- 
ers. It  is  a  remarkable  fact  that  from  the  opening  of  the 

111 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 


GARDENS  OF  VIRGIN  Y  MARTYR  MISSION,  SANTA  BARBARA 

mission  to  the  present  time  there  has  not  been  a  single  day 
that  prayers  have  not  been  offered  at  its  altars. 

From  the  mission  the  carriages  took  the  party  up  over 
a  beautiful  17-mile  drive,  ascending  and  skirting  the  sides 
of  Santa  Ynes  Mountains.  The  road  turned  and  circled 
up  the  mountain  like  a  large  tortuous  snake,  and  there 

112 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 


opened  up  a  new  vista  of  beautiful  scenery.  Away  below 
lay  the  city  with  its  10,000  people,  encircling  the  bay  of 
Santa  Barbara,  while  far  beyond  stretched  the  blue  waters 
of  the  Pacific  Ocean,  dotted  here  and  there  with  a  green 
gem  of  a  little  island.  As  the  road  descended  the  moun- 
tain it  passed  through  beautiful  groves  of  oranges  and 
lemons,  and  most  handsome  private  homes  set  in  the  most 
beautiful  surroundings  of  evergeen  trees,  palms,  tropical 
plants  and  terrace  upon  terrace  of  the  most  exquisite  and 
fragrant  flowers  we  have  ever  seen,  all  of  which  were  kept 
fresh  by  irrigation  with  water  piped  down  from  the  moun- 
tain streams.  In  many  instances  the  pipes  were  perforated 
and  run  away  up  into  the  higher  trees,  and  the  simple  turn- 
ing of  a  valve  created  an  artificial  rain,  bathing  and  re- 
freshing the  trees  and  shrubbery.  On  the  way  back  to  the 
hotel  a  stop  was  made  at  the  beautiful  home  of  Mr.  James 
Reed,  where  refreshments  were  served  and  the  boys  given 
the  freedom  of  the  lemon  and  orange  orchards  and  allowed 
to  take  all  the  fruit  they  wanted.  On  the  return  some  of 
the  boys  indulged  in  their  first  dip  in  the  Pacific  Ocean  a 
short  distance  from  the  hotel. 

Santa  Barbara  is  connected  with  San  Francisco  by  a 

steam    ship    line 


and  also  by  the 
Coast  Line  Rail- 
road. In  all  the 
world  there  is 
not  such  a  charm- 
ing situation  as 
Santa  Barbara. 
Mountain,  valley, 


THE  CLOISTERS,  SANTA  BARBARA. 

113 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 

woods,  sea  and  island,  coupled  with  a  climate  that  never 
says  no  to  any  recreation  or  sport;  a  past  in  history  written 
in  romance;  a  face  which  still  betokens  the  soft,  imaginative 
lines  of  its  Spanish  heritage.  Is  it  any  wonder  that  thous- 
ands of  pleasure  and  health-seekers  annually  flock  to  its 
pleasant  borders  ?  and  as  the  seasons  come  and  go  its  pop- 
ularity will  continue  to  increase. 

While  we  were  in  the  city  thousands  of  Christian  En- 
deavorers  were  gathered  there  for  a  convention,  and  some 
of  the  editors  were  very  indignant  when  some  of  the  recep- 
tion committee  attempted  to  decorate  them  with  C.  E. 
badges.  After  a  day  full  of  pleasure  the  scribes  left  Santa 
Barbara  about  eight  o'clock  that  evening  for  Monterey, 
California. 


114 


CHAPTER   XVII. 

DEL   MONTE — THE  SUPERBLY  BEAUTIFUL — MONTEREY- 
CALIFORNIA'S  FIRST  CAPITAL. 

1  "  ARLY  the  next  morning  the  editorial  special  was 
I"j  stopped  at  the  magnificent  and  beautiful  park  sur- 
rounding the  Hotel  Del  Monte,  a  few  miles  outside  of  Mont- 
erey. Arrangements  had  been  made  for  the  entire  party  to 
take  breakfast  at  this  world  famous  hotel,  and  soon  the  ed- 
itors were  gathered  around  the  tables,  well  keeping  up  their 
reputation  as  the  "Eating  Association."  The  menu  was 
fine  and  all  enjoyed  it  to  their  utmost. 

The  Hotel  Del  Monte  has  been  voted  by  world-wide 
travelers  to  be  the  most  noted  and  most  beautiful  resort  of 
the  world,  and  there  are  none  to  gainsay  that  assertion.  It 
is  situated  on  the  Bay  of  Monterey,  one  of  the  most  beau- 
tiful and  attractive  bays  of  the  world,  and  is  about  125 
miles  south  of  San  Francisco.  The  immediate  grounds  of 
the  hotel  contain  126  acres,  and  there  are  several  thousand 
acres  adjacent  that  are  owned  by  the  company  which  owns 
the  hotel.  The  park  is  a  most  beautiful  and  wonderful  dis- 
play of  landscape  gardening.  Plants,  trees,  flowers  and 
shrubs  from  the  uttermost  parts  of  the  earth  are  here.  Rug- 
ged, gnarled  trees  centuries  old  are  there,  standing  neigh- 
bors to  the  palm  and  banana  tree.  The  entire  grounds  are 
strikingly  picturesque  and  highly  cultivated.  Broad  sweeps 
of  lawns,  deep  splashes  of  floral  coloring,  weird  shapings  of 

115 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 


HOTEL  DEL  MONTE,  DEL  MONTE. 

oak  and  cypress  trees,  all  delight  the  artistic  sense.  Just 
to  look  upon  that  vast  stretch  of  natural  beauty,  embellished 
by  man,  soothes  and  delights  the  beholder.  The  Maze 
Walk,  or  Cypress  Labyrinth,  formed  out  of  the  California 
cypress  trees,  trained  in  all  sorts  of  fantastic  shapes,  and 
planted  on  the  lines  of  the  old  maze  puzzle,  gives  hours  of 
sport  to  the  younger  folks,  who  delight  to  beguile  the  un- 
wary into  the  maze  and  lose  them  there,  and  then  let  them 
take  several  hours  to  find  their  way  out. 

From  the  hotel  there  is  a  romantic  drive  of  17  miles 
along  the  southern  shores  of  the  Monterey  Bay  and  through 
the  groves  of  cypress  trees,  some  of  which  are  estimated  to 

116 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 

be  4,000  years  old.  The  cypress  trees  have  grown  in  all 
manner  of  grotesque  forms,  and  two  especially  have  so 
grown  together  and  joined  their  foliage  that,  at  a  distance, 
they  look  like  an  immense  ostrich.  There  is  excellent 
bathing  in  the  surf  of  the  bay,  and  in  addition  the  hotel  has 
an  immense  bathing  pavilion,  with  all  the  modern  appli- 
ances for  in-door  bathing,  with  salt  water  artificially  heated. 
The  hotel  owns  a  fine  golf  course  which  delights  the  lovers 
of  the  Scotch  game.  There  is  excellent  fishing  in  the  bay, 
and  the  finest  kind  of  boating,  as  the  waters  are  generally 
very  calm  and  smooth. 

There  are  also  provided  a  number  of  glass-bottomed 
boats  for  the  purpose  of  viewing  all  the  wonders  of  the  sub- 
marine gardens,  for  which  the  Bay  of  Monterey  is  so  fam- 
ous. These  gardens  are  even  more  beautiful  than  those  of 
Santa  Catalina  Island,  for  here  the  waters  are  not  so  deep, 
and  the  plants,  mosses  and  ferns  can  be  more  clearly  seen, 
and  seem  to  have  more  vivid  and  beautiful  colorings,  mak- 
ing one  think  that  some  master  painter  has  transferred  the 
brighest  hues  from  his  palette  upon  their  leaves.  There 
are  certainly  more  beautiful  things  hidden  under  the  ocean 
wave  than  man  has  ever  seen,  or  even  conceived,  in  his 
most  vivid  imagination. 

The  Hotel  Del  Monte  is  a  massive  and  mammoth 
structure,  erected  in  the  Elizabethan  style  of  architecture, 
and  is  fitted  up  with  all  the  modern  conveniences.  The 
hotel  can  accommodate  about  2,000  guests,  and  their  cheap- 
est rates  are  six  dollars  per  day,  and  as  much  more  as  you 
want  to  pay.  Their  cheapest  cigars  are  two  for  a  quarter, 
so  the  poor  editors  did  not  smoke  many  of  them.  The 
only  thing  that  prevented  the  scribes  from  spending  a  full 

117 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 

month  at  the  Del   Monte  was  the   lack  of  time,  and,  inci- 
dentally, lack  of  cash. 

From  Del  Monte  our  party  used  the  trolley  cars  to 
visit  the  old  town  of  Monterey,  founded  in  1603  by  Sebas- 
tian Vizcaino,  and  Pacific  Grove.  At  Monterey  were  found 
many  objects  of  historic  interest.  It  is  one  of  the  oldest 
towns  in  California,  and  here,  on  one  of  the  principal  streets, 
still  stands  the  first  frame  house  erected  in  the  State. 
There  is  also  still  standing  there  a  house  that  was  brought 


THE  SAN  CARLOS  BORROMEO  MISSION,  MONTEREY. 
from  New  York,  around  Cape  Horn,  on  a  sailing  vessel, 
and  re-built  in  Monterey.  The  first  United  States  custom 
house  on  the  Pacific  Coast  was  located  in  Monterey.  The 
Spanish  Mission  of  San  Carlos,  which  was  founded  in  1770, 
by  the  fearless  and  saintly  Junipero  Serra,  is  a  picturesque 
and  interesting  building.  It  is  in  a  wonderful  state  of  re- 
pair, considering  the  fact  that  it  is  1 36  years  old.  Beneath 
its  altars  rest  the  bones  of  Serra  and  the  faithful  brother  of 
his  soul,  Crespi.  Numerous  other  ancient  adobe  houses  in 
Monterey  carry  one  back  to  the  days  of  the  Spanish 

118 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 


cavaliers.  To- 
day the  place 
of  the  Spanish 
knights,  with 
their  glittering 
panoply  of 
arms,  is  taken 
by  the  blue 
and  gold  of 


Uncle  Sam's  troops,  who, 
1,200  strong,  are  quartered 
on  a  million  dollar  reserva- 
tion, a  short  distance  with- 
out the  city  gates. 

Pacific  Grove,  the  neigh- 
bor to  Monterey,  with  its  fine 

CYPRESS  POINT  AND  THE  GOLF  LINKS,  DEL   MONTE. 

119 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 

bathing  beach,  presented  an  alluring  attraction  to  the  dusty 
editors,  who  were  glad  to  have  a  dip  in  the  briny  deep. 
Pacific  Grove  is  much  like  our  Ocean  Grove,  of  the  Atlant- 
ic Coast,  and  it  is  the  annual  meeting  place  of  the  various 
Methodist  societies  of  California,  and  of  the  Chautauqua 
movement.  It  is  a  strictly  temperance  town,  as  not  a  single 
saloon  is  allowed  within  its  confines.  It  is  practically  a  sea 
side  resort  of  homes,  and  is  extremely  popular,  as  very  low 
rates  are  made  between  that  place  and  San  Francisco. 
After  a  short  time  spent  in  Pacific  Grove,  the  party  returned 
to  Del  Monte  to  take  their  train  and  continue  the  journey 
northward.  The  special  train  left  Del  Monte  shortly  be- 
fore noon,  but  just  before  the  train  started  a  host  of  fakirs 
gathered  at  the  station  selling  the  beautiful  pelts  of  the  sea 
gulls,  pelicans  and  storks,  tanned  ready  for  use,  and  sea 
mosses  and  beautiful  ab alone  and  other  curious  sea  shells. 
It  was  the  first  meeting  of  the  editors  with  the  real  souvenir 
fakirs,  and  they  were  easily  separated  from  their  shekels. 
The  bird  pelts  were  really  beautiful,  and  were  sold  at  ex- 
tremely low  prices.  Next  winter  the  editors'  wives  and 
sweethearts  will  be  wearing  beautiful  hats  decorated  with 
these  birds'  feathers,  and  carrying  bird  muffs  which  would 
have  cost  quite  a  few  dollars  if  bought  at  a  fashionable  mil- 
linery emporium  in  the  East.  Each  of  the  editors  carried 
away  at  least  one  souvenir  from  Del  Monte,  and  some 
carried  many. 


120 


I— ( 

o 
o 


e 


CHAPTER  XVHI. 

SANTA  CRUZ — THE  ATLANTIC  CITY  OF  THE  SUNSET  STATE 
SYLVAN  BREAKFAST  7NEATH  THE  "BIG  TREES." 

THE  ride  around  the  bay  to  Santa  Cruz  was  very 
pleasant  and  made  very  enjoyable  by  the  beautiful 
views  of  the  Bay  of  Monterey  had  from  the  car  windows, 
and  the  fresh  salty  breezes  which  came  up  from  the  blue 
waters  of  the  Pacific  Ocean  were  most  refreshing.  Santa 
Cruz  is  situated  on  a  beautiful  little  cove  on  the  northern 
side  of  the  Bay  of  Monterey,  and  almost  directly  across 
from  the  town  of  Monterey. 

Our  train  reached  Santa  Cruz  late  in  the  afternoon  of 
June  22d,  and  stopped  in  front  of  the  handsome  Casino,  on 
the  water  front,  where  we  were  greeted  by  a  committee  of 
the  Board  of  Trade,  with  a  full  brass  band  playing,  "Lo, 
the  conquering  hero  comes."  The  greeting  was  a  royal 
one,  but  as  the  editors  had  fasted  long  hours  they  excused 
themselves  while  they  went  into  the  Casino  restaurant  to 
refresh  the  inner  man. 

After  the  late  dinner,  or  lunch,  the  editors  spent  the 
remainder  of  the  afternoon  as  their  various  tastes  dictated, 
though  most  of  them  availed  themselves  of  the  opportunity 
to  sport  with  Neptune  in  the  briny  deep,  and,  incidentally, 
flirt  with  the  fair  California  damsels  who  crowded  both  the 
beach  and  the  surf. 

Santa  Cruz  is  the  Atlantic  City  of   the   Pacific  Ocean 

121 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 

coast,  and  is  crowded  with  people  during  the  entire  season. 
It  was  unusually  crowded  when  we  were  there,  as  the  peo- 
ple of  that  city  and  section,  both  old  and  young,  had  deter- 
mined to  show  the  editors  a  great  time.  As  subsequent 
events  developed  they  certainly  did  it  to  the  queen's  taste. 
The  city  is  undoubtedly  the  most  popular  place  of  resort  on 
the  Pacific  Coast,  by  reason  of  its  fine  bathing  beach,  fish- 
ing and  all  manner  of  summer  sports.  The  town  has 
plenty  of  hotels  and  boarding  houses  of  all  kinds  and  con- 
ditions, and  in  addition  an  enterprising  corporation  has 
built  a  large  "City  of  Tents,"  with  modern  conveniences  and 
baths  on  the  grounds;  pure  water,  a  good  restaurant  and 
fine  sanitary  arrangements,  which  they  let  out  a  moderate 
rental  to  the  summer  visitors.  The  city  is  full  of  life  and 
they  advertise  "Not  a  dull  moment  from  May  20th  to  Oc- 
tober 1st."  Three  band  concerts  daily.  Dance  at  the 
Casino  every  evening.  Plunge  baths,  hot  baths,  surf  bath- 
ing, fishing,  boating,  excursions  on  the  Bay,  picnics  at  the 
*cBig  Trees,"  vaudeville,  fireworks,  electrical  displays, 
aquatic  sports — variety  enough  to  please  all  people.  The 
Bay  of  Monterey,  at  Santa  Cruz,  on  account  of  the  placid 
waters  and  the  great  varieties  and  vast  numbers  of  fish  in 
it,  make  it  by  long  odds  the  best  fishing  place  on  the 
coast. 

Here  are  found  "the  royal  king  salmon,"  steel  heads, 
sea  bass,  sea  trout  and  numerous  other  varieties  of  large 
and  gamey  fish.  In  one  morning's  sport  an  expert  fisher- 
man caught  32  king  salmon,  none  of  which  weighed  less 
10  pounds. 

Back  of  Santa  Cruz  stands  a  high  mountain  range  pro- 
tecting it  from  the  heat  of  the  valleys  beyond,  thus  giving 

122 


NI 

D 

d 


.35 


i 


M 


W 

o 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 

the  city  a  very  equable  and  pleasant  climate  throughout 
the  entire  year.  There  are  no  snows  and  no  extremes  of 
cold  and  heat. 

The  city  is  progressive,  and  forging  ahead  rapidly 
under  the  impetus  given  it  through  its  Board  of  Trade  and 
energetic  citizens.  Mr.  H.  R.  Judah,  the  genial  Secretary 
of  the  Board  of  Trade,  is  a  hustler  of  the  first  water,  and 
knows  how,  in  a  few  minutes,  to  impress  upon  you  all  the 
merits  and  good  points  of  Santa  Cruz  (there  are  no  bad 
points)  and  make  you  believe  the  city  is  the  beau  ideal  of 
all  spots  on  the  Pacific  Coast.  After  Mr.  Secretary  has 
started  ball  rolling,  there  is  Joe  Horn,  that  whole-souled 
and  jolly  good  fellow,  who  once  called  Pittsburg  home,  and 
a  host  of  other  good  fellows,  like  the  Robison  boys,  and 
others,  to  keep  the  push  going.  We  remember  them  all 
most  kindly.  In  fact,  all  the  men  we  met  were  hustlers- 
even  mine  host  of  the  Casino,  though  he  was  a  trifle  slow 
in  serving  our  hungry  host. 

Each  man  in  the  town  seems  to  have  constituted  him- 
self a  Santa  Cruz  boomer.  Well,  they  have  a  good  thing, 
and  we  do  not  blame  them  for  booming  it.  Their  efforts 
are  being  crowned  with  success,  for  the  town,  which  had  a 
population  of  5,665  in  1900,  to-day  has  about  13,000  peo- 
ple, a  gain  of  over  100  per  cent,  in  five  years.  The  people 
of  Santa  Cruz  pride  themselves  on  the  grapes  raised  in 
their  county,  and  also  on  the  vintage  that  comes  from  them, 
especially  the  Cresta  Blanca  brand.  Their  grapes  are 
noted  as  the  finest  table  grapes  grown  on  the  coast.  And 
here  is  the  home  of  the  fomous  Loganberry. 

The  gardens  of  the  city  were,  indeed,  "bowers  of 
roses."  So  many  and  grandly  beautiful  were  those  flowers 

123 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 

and  the  beautiful  calla  lilies,  and  sweet-scented  heliotrope 
grow  there  in  the  most  luxuriant  and  bewildering  profusion. 
There  is  no  difficulty  there  in  making  even  the  sweetest  of 
flowers  grow  out  doors,  and  the  rich  and  poor  alike  can 
have  their  beautiful  flowers  in  unlimited  quantities. 

All  these  things  the  editors  saw  as  they  were  whirled 
through  the  city  on  the  trolleys.  Returning  from  the  ride 
we  enjoyed  a  brief  siesta  in  our  cars,  then  took  supper  and 
adjourned  to  the  Casnio  where  we  were  given  a  brilliant  re- 
ception by  the  Board  of  Trade  and  people  of  the  city.  The 
reception  was  followed  by  a  fine  band  concert,  which,  in 
turn,  was  followed  by  a  beautiful  special  display  of  fire 
works  out  on  the  water,  after  which  followed  a  complimen- 
tary ball  for  the  editors  in  the  Casino  ball  room,  at  which 
the  young  editors,  and  some  of  the  old  ones,  danced  with 
the  pretty  girls  until  they  were  compelled  to  stop  from  sheer 
exhaustion.  The  music  was  furnished  by  an  orchestra 
composed  of  swarthy  native  Hawaii ans,  who  played  entirely 
on  guitars  and  other  stringed  instruments,  their  national 
airs.  Many  of  their  selections  were  strange  and  weird,  and 
to  others  they  sang  sweet-sounding  songs  in  their  native 
tongue,  which  no  one  understood,  but  which  gave  a  pleas- 
ing effect  to  their  music.  This  was  a  catchy  innovation  in 
the  musical  program,  which  was  enjoyed  both  by  the  dan- 
cers and  the  "wall  flowers."  The  ball  broke  up  at  a  late 
hour  and  the  party  returned  to  their  cars  for  the  night. 

We  turned  out  early  Thursday  morning,  June  23d, 
for  we  were  to  be  the  guests  of  the  Santa  Cruz  Board  of 
Trade  at  breakfast  at  the  "Big  Trees"  grove,  five  miles 
distant  from  the  city,  up  the  mountain,  on  a  narrow  guage 
railroad.  As  our  party  was  so  large,  and  the  railroad  did 

124 


M 
W 

a 

5*J 

1 
1 


c: 

N 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 

not  have  enough  cars  to  carry  us  all  up  at  once,  it  was 
arranged  that  half  our  number  should  go  up  by  rail  and 
the  others  drive  up  in  carriages,  and  exchange  methods  of 
conveyance  on  the  return  trip.  All  the  public  conveyances 
of  the  city  and  most  of  the  private  carriages  were  pressed 
into  use  for  the  editors.  The  carriage  contingent  started 
off  amid  the  huzzas  of  their  friends,  a  considerable  length 
of  time  in  advance  of  the  narrow  guage  train.  The  day 
was  bright  and  beautiful  and  the  ocean  was  sending  in 
fresh  salty  breezes  which  were  most  exhilerating,  causing 
many  of  the  boys  to  fish  their  overcoats  out  from  under- 
neath the  berths.  The  Pennsylvania  delegation  was  for- 
tunate in  being  selected  among  the  contingent  to  go  up  the 
mountain  by  train.  The  morning  was  all  that  could  be 
desired  for  a  mountain  climb,  even  on  the  cars.  The  air 
was  fresh  and  clear,  and  the  surrounding  country,  in  all  its 
natural  beauty,  stood  out  with  wonderful  vividness.  The 
train  was  a  long  one  and  was  hauled  by  two  locomotives  of 
great  power.  The  road,  as  it  leaves  the  city,  first  passes 
through  the  rich,  cultivated  fields,  then  come  the  vineyards, 
with  their  vines  burdened  with  rich  and  beautiful  clusters 
of  grapes;  then  follow  the  foothills,  and,  last  of  all,  looms 
up  the  rugged  mountain,  with  its  deep  gorges  and  rocky 
chasms,  with  the  turbulent  and  silvery  brook  singing  as  it 
dashes  down  over  the  rocks  and  huge  boulders  to  lose  it- 
self in  the  deep  and  mighty  ocean  below.  Everything 
combines  to  make  a  picture  of  rare  beauty  and  grandeur — 
one  which  makes  a  lasting  impression  on  the  beholder. 

As  the  train  ascended  the  mountain,  rushing  every 
few  minutes  through  a  dark  tunnel,  the  grade  became 
steeper  and  the  gorges  deeper  and  more  picturesque.  The 

125 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 

train  sped  from  side  to  side  of  the  deep  chasms  presenting 
a  new  and  entrancing  view  each  minute.  The  greys  and 
browns  of  the  rocks,  the  blue  of  the  sky  and  the  greens  of 
trees,  with  the  silvery  gleams  of  the  roaring  brook,  com- 
bined to  make  a  picture  of  entrancing  beauty. 

In  a  short  time  it  was  noticed  that  the  trees  seemed  to 
grow  larger  and  taller,  and  we  realized  that  we  were  near- 
ing  our  destination.  A  little  later  the  train  halted  and  the 
conductor  called  out  for  the  "Big  Trees."  Out  we  tumbled 
in  short  order,  then  stopped  short,  as  we  realized  we  were 
in  the  presence  of  those  mighty  monarchs  of  the  forest 
of  which  we  had  heard  so  much  from  our  youth  up.  The 
trees  are  something  like  the  fir  or  redwood,  and  are 
an  evergreen,  with  most  of  their  branches  near  the  tops  of 
their  mighty  trunks.  This  is  the  largest  grove  in  the  world 
of  the  sequoia  sempervirens  tree,  as  the  botanists  classify 
it.  The  Santa  Cruz  grove  contains  many  thousands  of  these 
trees,  and  has  over  one  hundred  of  these  giants — the  largest 
and  tallest  in  the  world — ranging  from  30  to  over  100  feet 
in  circumference,  with  a  height  of  from  250  to  365  feet,  the 
tallest  being  over  5,000  years  old.  Could  they  but  talk, 
what  wonderful  stories  they  could  relate.  This  grove  is 
also  rich  in  historical  interest,  for  it  was  here  General  John 
C.  Fremont  made  his  headquarters  in  the  early  days  of 
California's  struggle  for  independence  from  Mexico. 

In  the  winter  of  1846,  on  his  way  from  San  Francisco 
to  Monterey,  General  Fremont,  with  his  escort,  camped  in 
the  hollow  of  the  tree  which  now  bears  his  name.  The 
tree  is  61  feet  in  circumference  and  280  feet  high.  In  this 
tree,  which  is  still  living  and  green,  there  is  a  large  hollow 
into  which  over  50  of  our  party  walked  and  stood  at  the 

126 


o 


> 

3 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 

same  time.  In  addition  to  the  large  hole,  which  serves  as 
a  door,  General  Fremont  had  another  hole  cut  higher  up 
for  the  escape  of  the  smoke  from  their  camp  fire. 

Here,  it  is  interesting  to  relate,  that  locked  up  in  the 
vault  of  one  of  the  banks  of  Redding,  California,  is  a  flag 
that  is  second  in  historic  importance  to  Californians  only  to 
the  Bear  flag  that  is  jealously  guarded  by  Pacific  Coast 
pioneers.  The  flag  referred  to  is  the  one  that  General  Fre- 
mont unfurled  from  the  summit  of  the  Rocky  Mountains  in 
1841,  when  he  and  his  small  party  were  on  their  way  to 
California,  before  the  Mexican  war.  The  banner  is  the 
property  of  P.  M.  Reardon,  managing  director  of  the  Bully 
Bill  mine  at  Delamar.  It  was  given  to  him  a  few  years 
ago  by  Mrs.  Fremont  herself.  It  was  made  by  her  own 
hands  on  the  eve  of  her  husband's  path-finding  expedition 
to  the  West.  The  flag  differs  from  the  ordinary  emblem 
only  in  the  field,  on  which  is  wrought  a  large  American 
eagle,  done  in  embroidery  of  great  delicacy  and  beauty. 
About  the  eagle  are  clustered  the  26  stars  that  in  1841  rep- 
resented the  States  in  the  Union.  On  the  reyerse  side  of 
the  flag  is  pinned  a  silk  scarf  bearing  the  inscription  in 
golden  letters:  "Rocky  Mountains  in  1841."  The  banner 
is  in  a  fairly  good  state  of  preservation,  considering  its  age. 

The  principal  trees  have  been  named  after  some  nation- 
al heros  and  great  men.  One  of  the  first  named  trees  that 
our  party  met  was  a  stalwart  monarch  called  Pennsylvania. 
The  boys  were  delighted,  and  gathering  around  that  tree 
gave  hearty  cheers  for  Pennsylvania,  for  the  tree  and  for 
home.  There  was  no  other  tree  in  the  grove  bearing  a 
state  name.  A  jolly  scribe  of  our  party  from  Illinois  search- 
ed in  vain  to  find  a  tree  Christened  after  his  native  state. 

127 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 

Disgusted  at  his  ill-luck,  he  took  his  visiting  card  and 
pinned  it  to  a  baby  sequoia  sempervirens,  then  poetised  in 
the  following  strain: 

You  derned  little  runt,  hold  up  your  snoot; 

Don't  be  so  shy  and  cry; 
I  want  you  to  root,  and  root,  and  root, 

For  the  State  of  Illinois. 

Get  a  move  on  quick,  them  climb  and  climb; 

Don't  be  a  minute  late, 
Or  you  will  have  one  deuce  of  a  time 

In  catching  the  Keystone  State. 

General  Grant  visited  the  grove  in  1879,  on  his  return 
home  from  his  tour  of  the  world,  and  a  mighty  giant  60 
feet  in  circumference  and  325  feet  high  now  bears  his  name. 
There  are  also  trees  named  after  Presidents  Harrison,  Mc- 
Kinely  and  Roosevelt,  all  of  whom  have  visited  the  grove. 
The  "President  Harrison"  is  65  feet  in  circumference,  "Old 
Glory"  has  a  spread  of  100  feet,  "General  Sherman"  has  a 
girth  of  65  feet,  the  "Giant"  with  a  circumference  of  65 
feet  and  a  height  of  381  feet,  was  the  lord  of  the  forest; 
"Jumbo"  has  a  waist  band  of  52  feet  and  rears  its  head 
290  feet  in  th  air.  Then  there  is  the  "driveway  tree," 
with  a  circumference  of  84  feet  and  a  diameter  of  28  feet, 
through  which  has  been  cut  a  driveway,  and  a  coach-and- 
four  can  pass  through  with  ease,  stop  the  coach  and  horses 
and  be  wholly  within  the  tree. 

Among  the  remarkable  and  curiously  formed  trees  is 
the  "Cathedral,"  so  named  by  Robert  G.  Ingersoll  on  his 
visit  to  the  grove.  The  "Cathedral"  has  a  solid  tree  base 
(the  largest  in  the  world)  of  110  feet  circumference,  from 
which  springs  22  trees,  the  tallest  of  which  is  nearly  300 

128 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 

feet.  The  "Young  Men's  Christian  Association"  tree  is 
another  wonderful  one,  of  similar  growth  to  the  "Cathe- 
dral," and  is  almost  as  large.  These  trees  grow  from  the 
roots  of  fallen  trees,  and  from  seeds  no  larger  than  mustard 
seed.  Mere  figures  and  statements,  however  strong,  will 
fail  to  impress  the  reader  with  the  grandeur  and  magni- 
tude of  these  wonderful  monarchs  of  the  forest.  Their 
great  size  and  magnificence  are  beyond  description,  and 
their  ages  run  far  beyond  the  earliest  days  of  profane  his- 
tory. The  day  of  their  birth  was  long  before  the  days  of 
Adam  and  Eve  in  the  Garden  of  Paradise.  Such  wonders 
of  the  Almighty's  creation  must  be  seen  side  by  side,  face 
to  face,  to  be  appreciated  and  understood. 

After  we  had  exhausted  the  wonders  of  this  forest,  we 
were  led  to  an  adjacent  part  of  the  grove,  where  the  Santa 
Cruz  Board  of  Trade  and  their  beautiful  and  accomplished 
young  lady  aids  had  spread  large  tables  groaning  under  a 
bountiful  supply  of  meats,  fruits,  wines  and  all  manner  of 
good  things  for  our  breakfast.  The  tables  were  prettily 
decorated  with  beautiful  and  fragrant  flowers  in  most  gen- 
erous profusion.  By  this  time  every  one  had  a  keen  appe- 
tite, sharpened  by  the  mountain  air  and  several  hours  of  fast- 
ing, so  it  did  not  need  a  second  invitation  to  get  the  hungry 
editors  to  the  tables,  forget  the  war  of  words  and  start  to 
devour  the  good  things  which  had  been  provided  for  the 
"Bull's  Head  Breakfast."  The  graceful  waiters  were  kept 
on  the  wing  to  provide  for  their  hungry  guests,  but  with  an 
enormous  supply  of  eatables  and  drinkables,  every  one  was 
filled  and  satisfied  to  the  utmost  limit.  This  breakfast, 
with  its  unique  and  romantic  surroundings,  the  palatable 
and  bountiful  supply  of  food,  the  fragrant  flowers  and 

129 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 

choice  vintage,  with  the  weird  and  sweet  melodies  rendered 
by  the  Hawaiian  orchestra,  and  the  beautiful  and  graceful 
waitresses,  was  a  great  success — an  event  that  will  linger 
long  in  the  memories  of  the  participants. 

The  wines  served  at  the  sylvan  breakfast  were  of  the 
most  choice  of  California  vintage,  among  which  was  the 
famous  Cresta  Blanca  brand. 

The  manufacture  of  red  and  white  wines  is  one  of 
California's  greatest  industries,  and  is  carried  on  on  a  scale 
of  great  magnitude,  giving  employment  to  thousands  of 
persons.  The  California  wines  of  all  grades  are  fast  be- 
coming famous  the  world  over,  and  are  in  close  competition 
with  the  vintages  of  Germany,  France  and  Italy;  and  by 
many  experts  are  thought  to  excel  the  wines  of  those  coun- 
tries in  both  boquet  and  body. 

In  order  to  care  for  the  large  quantities  of  wine  made 
annually,  the  grape  growers  have  built  immense  storage 
tanks  and  curing  cellars  throughout  the  State.  At  St. 
Helena  is  the  largest  surface  stone  wine  cellar  in  the  world. 
That  mighty  building  is  300  feet  long,  100  deep,  four 
stories  high,  with  several  tunnels  extending  far  back  into 
hillside  and  has  a  capacity  of  3,000,000  gallons. 

At  Asti,  in  Sonoma  County,  is  what  is  claimed  to  be 
the  largest  wine  tank  in  the  universe,  containing  500,000 
gallons  ot  wine,  and  is  several  hundred  times  larger  than 
the  famous  wine  tank  of  Heidelberg  Castle,  Germany, 
which  was  built  to  hold  sufficient  wine  for  a  three  months' 
siege  of  that  fortress.  The  Asti  tank  was  built  with  con- 
crete walls  two  feet  thick,  hermetically  sealed,  and  required 
45  days  and  nights,  with  the  work  of  50  men  and  25  teams 
to  build  it.  It  required  two  steam  pumps  seven  days  to 

130 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 

pump  the  wine  from  that  tank  into  smaller  tanks.  After  the 
/  fter  the  tank  was  emptied  200  ladies  and  gentlemen  from 
San  Francisco,  on  invitation  of  the  company,  held  a  dance 
in  the  tank — the  first  affair  of  the  kind  in  history — and  it 
was  said  to  have  been  a  very  great  success. 


THE  BEACH   SPEEDWAY,  SANTA    CRUZ. 

At  the  conclusion  of  the  repast  it  was  near  noon,  and 
the  train  soon  started  on  the  return  trip  to  Santa  Cruz. 
When  we  reached  our  special  train  a  most  pleasing  sight 
met  our  eyes.  During  our  absence  the  ladies  of  Santa 
Cruz  had  transformed  each  of  our  ten  cars  into  a  beautiful 
bower  of  exquisite  flowers.  Each  car  was  decorated  with  a 
different  flower — some  had  roses,  some  lilies,  others  carna- 
tions, verbenas,  geraniums,  poppies,  marguerites  and  orange 
blossoms.  The  Pennsylvania  car  was  decorated  with  gar- 
lands of  smilax  and  beautiful  sweet  peas  of  every  imagina- 

131 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 

ble  shade  of  color,  and  was  by  all  odds  the  most  beautiful 
and  unique  of  the  train.  Cheer  after  cheer  was  given  for 
the  beautiful  ladies  and  their  beautiful  flowers,  and  for  the 
Board  of  Trade,  who  had  so  handsomely  entertained  us, 
and  the  editorial  special  pulled  out  of  Santa  Cruz  at  one 
o'clock  bound  for  San  Francisco. 


132 


SOME  FLOWER  EMBOWERED  HOMES,  SAN  JOSE,  CALIFORNIA 


CHAPTER  XIX. 

THE  NILE-LIKE  VALLEYS — STANFORD  UNIVERSITY — 
SANTA  CLARA   MISSION — SAN  JOSE. 

AS  the  train  sped  northward  from  Santa  Cruz  it  entered 
one  of  the  most  fertile  and  richest  valleys  in  the  world; 
a  valley  which,  on  account  of  the  wealth  and  depth  of  its 
soil,  has  been  likened  to  the  famous  Valley  of  the  Nile.  On 
all  sides  were  large  ranches  whose  fields  were  burdened 
with  most  prolific  crops,  and  orchard  followed  orchard  in 
quick  succession,  laden  with  their  burdens  of  luscious  fruit 
of  all  kinds.  Here  and  there  were  seen  flower  ranches  of 
matchless  beauty.  At  one  ranch  sweet  peas  were  raised  in 
great  profusion,  and  for  half  a  mile  or  more  a  field  of  these 
beautiful  flowers  lined  the  track.  These  sweet  peas  were 
the  most  beautiful  we  ever  saw,  being  of  every  known  shade 
and  color.  Each  shade  or  color  was  planted  by  itself  in 
long  divisions  about  50  feet  wide,  making  the  field  look 
like  a  mammoth  floral  flag.  We  longed  to  have  the  train 
stop  that  we  might  alight  and  fill  our  arms  with  the  beauti- 
ful blooms,  but  as  the  train  was  behind  time  we  were  not 
permitted  that  pleasure. 

As  passed  along,  a  considerable  distance  to  the  east  of 
us,  was  seen  the  famous  Lick  Observatory  crowning  the 
summit  of  Mount  Hamilton.  There,  at  an  altitude  of  4,440 
feet,  the  trustees  of  James  Lick,  an  eccentric  millionaire  of 

133 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 


THE  LICK  OBSERVATORY,  MT.  HAMILTON. 
San  Francisco,  erected  that  observatory  at  a  cost  of  $700,- 
000.  At  the  time  of  its  erection  the  telescope  was  the  lar- 
gest and  most  famous  in  the  world.  Its  lens  was  made  by 
Abram  Clark  and  is  three  feet  in  diameter.  The  erection 
of  the  telescope  gave  a  new  impetus  to  the  study  of  astron- 
omy and  by  its  aid  many  new  stars  and  planets  were  dis- 
covered. 

From  Mayfield  station  could  be  seen  the  magnificent 
structures  of  the  Leland  Stanford  Junior  University,  which 
was  erected  a  few  years  ago  by  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Leland  Stan- 
ford as  a  memorial  to  their  son,  and  given  a  princely  en- 
dowment of  $30,000,000  and  100,000  acres  of  land. 

This  university  has  secured  an  international  reputa- 
tion, and  is  the  most  richly  endowed  university  in  the 
world.  It  is  destined  under  its  progressive  management  to 
do  great  things.  A  short  distance  from  Palo  Alto,  the 

134 


VIEWS  OF  SANTA  CLARA  VALLEY,  NEAR  SAN  JOSE,  CALIFORNIA 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 

seat  o£  the  University,  is  the  quaint  old  town  of  Santa 
Clara,  where  are  located  the  Santa  Clara  Mission  and  Col- 
lege, the  oldest  institution  of  learning  on  the  Pacific  Coast. 
This  Mission  was  established  by  the  vigorous  Spanish 
Padres  in  the  year  1777.  Here,  growing  in  the  old  Mis- 
sion garden  may  be  seen  the  olive  and  palm  trees  planted  by 
those  faithful  religious  workers  of  long  ago.  The  frescoes 
and  paintings,  owing  to  the  dryness  of  the  climate,  have 
been  preserved  well  nigh  in  their  original  beauty  and  fresh- 
ness. From  the  Mission  to  San  Jose  (pronounced  Hosay) 
are  double  lines  of  ancient  willows,  planted  by  the  same 
padres,  to  afford  them  shade  while  walking  from  their  re- 
treat to  the  hacienda  of  San  Jose.  Our  train  made  a  very 
short  stop  at  San  Jose,  so  that  but  little  of  that  interesting 


THE  ENTRANCE  TO  STANFORD    UNIVERSITY,  PALO  ALTO. 

135 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 


THE  COURT  HOUSE  AND  HALL  OF  RECORDS,  SAN  JOSE 
town  was  seen,  but  what  little  was  seen  was  interesting  and 
pleasing.  It  is  a  model  city,  and  has  a  fine  system  of  elec- 
tric street  railways,  electric  light,  gas  plant,  sewers  and  the 
purest  water  piped  from  the  distant  mountains  to  the  city. 
Its  public  buildings  are  models  of  municipal  architecture, 
and  its  large  parks  are  places  of  beauty  and  pleasure.  The 
country  surrounding  San  Jose  is  a  great  fruit  producing 
territory,  and  olives,  prunes,  apricots,  pears  and  peaches 
grow  in  great  abundance  and  in  great  perfection.  This 
fruit  is  carefully  packed  and  shipped  in  refrigerator  cars  to 
supply  the  markets  of  the  East,  and  even  to  England. 

San  Jose,  40  miles  south  of  San  Francisco,  is  a  city 
of  about  40,000  people,  built  upon  almost  level,  elevated 
floor,  87  feet  above  sea.  The  20  square  miles  of  city  are 
beautiful,  with  broad  avenues  and  shady  walks.  The  city 
is  half  enveloped  and  wholly  adorned  with  a  great  wealth  of 
trees,  shrubs  and  flowers,  chiefly  semi-tropic.  San  Jose  is 
the  rose  garden  of  the  earth.  At  least  165  varieties  make 

136 


SAINTE  CLAIRE  CLUB  HOUSE,  SAN  JOSE,  CALIFORNIA. 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 


THE  CITY  HALL   PARK,  SAN   JOSE. 

yards  beautiful  or  climb  up  over  the  housetops.  Trees 
reach  perfection.  Palms,  magnolias,  oranges,  peppers, 
grevilleas,  acacias,  cypress,  pines,  eucalypti  and  other  ever- 
green growths,  intermingle  with  oaks,  maples,  sycamores, 
elms,  poplars,  alder,  willow,  ash,  etc. 

In  the  center  of  this  city  of  parks,  lawns  and  gardens 
is  the  business  area,  the  handsomest  and  most  impressive 
series  of  business  blocks  in  all  the  smaller  cities  of  the 
West.  Blocks  of  stone  and  brick,  two  to  six  stories  high, 
line  well-paved  streets. 

The  public  buildings  include  the  finest  postoffice  the 
Government  owns.  The  county  court  house  and  hall  of 
records,  the  high  school,  State  normal  school,  public  library, 

137 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 


SOME  BEAUTIFUL  HOMES,  SAN  JOSE. 

the  city  hall,  are  noteworthy.  The  public  school  buildings 
of  San  Jose  and  immediate  suburbs  are  valued  at  $500,000. 
The  hotels  are  fitting  to  what  is  fast  becoming  one  of  the 
greatest  resort  city  in  California. 

The  city's  park  system  is  comprehensive  and  beauti- 
ful. Almost  in  the  heart  of  the  city  is  St.  James  Park, 
with  a  greater  variety  of  trees  than  any  other  park  in  the 
United  States.  The  pride  of  San  Jose,  however,  is  the 
city's  Alum  Rock  Canyon  Park,  unequaled  in  the  State. 
This  is  a  canyon  playground  of  1 ,000  acres,  seven  miles 
east  of  town,  in  the  Coast  Mountains,  reached  by  an  elec- 
tric railway.  Here  are  16  mineral  springs.  The  different 

138 


FAMOUS  ALUM   ROCK  PARK,   SAN  JOSE,    CALIFORNIA. 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 

waters  are  on  exhibition  in  the  Santa  Clara  County  exhibit, 
Agricultural  Building.  Through  the  park  flows  an  ever- 
living  stream,  lined  with  trees.  The  city  has  here  fine 
plunge  and  tub  baths,  restaurant,  a  deer  paddock,  aviary 
and  romantic  walks  and  drives. 

The  Santa  Clara  Valley  was  settled  by  Franciscan  friars 
under  Father  Junipero  Serra  in  1777.  Two  of  the  Mis- 
sions, Santa  Clara  and  San  Jose,  are  within  its  limits.  The 
valley  is  a  park,  originally  dotted  with  magnificent  oaks. 
North  to  south,  within  the  county,  it  is  50  miles  long, 
with  a  maximum  width  at  the  north  end  of  25  miles.  The 
mountains  eastward,  the  inner  Coast  Range,  rise  4,000  feet. 
Westward  is  the  Coast  Range,  4,000  feet  high,  and  from 


HARVESTING  THE  ONION  SEED,  SANTA  CLARA  VALLEY. 

139 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 

its  crest  are  visible,  on  one  hand,  the  Pacific  Ocean  and  on 
the  other  the  Santa  Clara  Valley,  with  its  10,000  homes 
gleaming  white  amid  the  trees.  Mountain  streams  cut  little 
ravines  through  the  valley  floor  and  glide  into  San  Fran- 
cisco Bay,  where  the  valley  flares  out  into  the  salt  water. 

The  Santa  Clara  Valley  has  a  net-work  of  Southern 
Pacific  Railroad  tracks,  the  city  of  San  Jose  radiating  lines 
of  that  company  in  seven  directions — to  Los  Angeles,  San 
Francisco,  Alameda,  Oakland,  Santa  Cruz  and  the  ocean 
and  two  routes  to  New  Amalden. 

A  native  poetess  of  California  has  sung  of  the  State's 
great  natural  wealth  of  soil  and  minerals  in  the  following 
well-balanced  sonnet: 

If  you  will  delve  beneath  the  sod, 
Rich  gifts  you'll  find,  stored  up  by  God, 
In  mountain  cellars,  hid  from  view, 
When  time  was  young  and  earth  was  new. 
And  flowing  fortunes  in  our  soil, 
Are  fountains,  geysers,  wells  of  oil. 
Our  myriad  miles  of  golden  grain 
Ripple  and  wave  like  ocean's  main. 
And  joyous  here  the  bird  that  flies 
'Neath  ever-blue  Italian  skies. 


140 


CHAPTER  XX. 

SAN  FRANCISCO — THE  QUEEN  OF  THE  GOLDEN 
GATE. 

LEAVING  San  Jose  the  train  moved  rapidly  through 
the  smaller  towns,  and  in  a  few  hours  we  were  in  sight 
of  the  city  of  the  Golden  Gate — San  Francisco.  A  few 
minutes  later  the  train  rolled  into  the  great  shed  at  the  depot. 
We  alighted  to  find  ourselves,  at  last,  in  the  city  of  our 
dreams,  and  the  place  of  so  many  golden  stories. 

Special  trolley  cars  were  waiting  to  carry  the  entire 
party  to  the  magnificent  Hotel  St.  Francis,  where  arrange- 
ments had  been  made  to  entertain  all  of  us  during  our  stay 
in  the  city,  and  where  we  were  comfortably  and  safely 
housed.  It  was  with  feelings  of  awe  and  wonder  that  many 
of  us  saw  the  golden  sun  sink  to  its  rest  that  night  beneath 
the  rippling  waves  of  the  Pacific  Ocean.  A  few  weeks 
before  we  had  seen  the  same  sun  arise  in  all  its  glory  from 
the  briny  waters  of  the  Atlantic,  and  now  we  saw  it  vanish 
from  our  view  into  the  bosom  of  the  Pacific,  seemingly  lost 
forever. 

San  Francisco,  the  most  wonderful  and  powerful  city 
on  the  Pacific  Coast,  took  its  name  from  a  modest,  but 
valiant  man — St.  Francis  D'Asis,  the  founder  of  the  order 
of  Franciscan  monks,  whose  Spanish  name  was  San  Fran- 
cisco. He  was  an  intense  lover  of  nature,  and  a  poet  of 

141 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 


THE   HOTEL  ST.   FRANCIS. 

rare  ability.  It  was  from  him  the  Italian  poet  Dante  is 
said  to  have  received  much  of  his  inspiration,  and  when  the 
town  was  founded  in  its  beautiful  surroundings  the  old 
monk's  followers  very  appropriately  christened  it  with  their 
master's  name. 

Here  it  was  that  the  advance  guard  of  those  brave 
brown-coweled,  bef rocked,  engirdled  and  sandal-shod  Span- 
ish padres,  who  had  journeyed  along  the  El  Camino  Real 
(the  King's  Highway)  carrying  their  crucifixes  and  bear- 
ing the  banner  of  Missions,  halted  on  October  9th,  1776, 
and  founded  the  Mission  of  de  Los  Dolores  de  Nuestra  Pa- 
dre San  Francisco  de  Asis,  in  memory  of  the  sorrows  of  the 

142 


THE  DOLORES  MISSION,  SAN  FRANCISCO,  FOUNDED   1796, 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 

sainted  founder  of  their  order.  The  Mission,  with  its  red- 
tiled  roof,  its  massive  walls,  its  thong-tied  rafters  and 
beams,  was  carefully  and  strongly  built,  and  still  stands  in 
a  state  of  remarkable  preservation,  considering  its  age  of 
more  than  130  years.  In  time  this  structure  came  to  be 
called  the  Mission  Dolores,  and  so  it  is  kown  to  this  day. 
Trie  romance  of  its  foundation  still  clings  about  it,  but  its 
service  is  discontinued;  the  officiating  friars  are  dead,  its 
campo  sanato  has  fallen  into  neglect,  and  weeds  -and  briars 
have  taken  the  places  of  the  beautiful  flowers.  Near. by 
stands  a  magnificent  cathedral  of  lordly  proportions,  entire- 
ly overshadowing  this  pathetic  relic  of  the  noble  and  heroic 
past. 

Those  monks  are  entitled  to  a  large  mede  of  praise, 
for  it  was  their  bravery  and  daring  that  opened  up  all  that 
glorious  country  for  future  generations.  Alone  and  unaid- 
ed they  penetrated  the  wilderness,  preceding  civilization 
and  blazing  the  trail  for  future  settlers.  By  their  kind  and 
gentle  conduct  they  won  the  confidence  and  made  fast 
friends  of  the  aborigines.  For  their  sakes  the  Indians  look- 
ed with  kindness  and  fearlessness  upon  the  advent  of  their 
pale-face  brethren.  A  little  more  than  50  years  ago  San 
Francisco  was  little  more  than  a  sandhill  settlement.  To- 
day she  stands  as  a  magnificent  queen  within  the  Golden 
Gate,  with  well  nigh  500,000  devout  partizans  surrounding 
her  throne.  Of  her  Brete  Harte  said: 

Serene,  indifferent  to  her  fate, 
Thou  sittest  at  the  Western  Gate. 

Since  these  words  were  penned,  the  Queen  has  waved 
her  sceptre,  wonderful  changes  have  been  wrought,  and  San 

143 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 


THE  LOBBY,  HOTEL  ST.   FRANCIS. 

Francisco  has  become  the  metropolis  of  the  west — metro- 
politan in  its  character,  with  representatives  of  all  the  na- 
tions of  the  world  within  its  doors.  In  its  harbors  fly  the 
flags  of  all  nations,  and  from  its  docks  sail  ships  to  the 
islands  of  the  sea  and  the  uttermost  parts  of  the  earth,  bear- 
ing burdens  of  precious  lives  and  the  produce  of  the  world. 
The  situation  of  San  Francisco  is  beautiful  and  ideal.  On 
one  side  are  the  waves  of  the  limitless  and  beautiful  Pacific 
Ocean;  on  the  other  the  extensive  waters  of  the  land-locked 
San  Francisco  Bay,  the  greatest  and  safest  harbor  in  the 
world,  where  could  be  sheltered  at  one  time  the  war  fleets 
of  the  entire  world  safe  and  secure  from  their  foes.  The 
bay,  with  its  dark  blue  waters  dotted  with  islands,  with 

144 


THE  JAPANESE  TEA  GARDEN,  GOLDEN  GATE  PARK. 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 

green,  wooded  and  undulating  shores,  make  a  unique  and 
beautiful  setting  for  the  gem — the  City  of  the  Golden  Gate. 
Here  is  a  beauty,  unique  in  its  character,  that  has  no  exact 
duplicate  in  the  world.  Barring  aged  ruins  and  historical 
castles,  it  far  surpasses  anything  contained  in  what  we  are 
pleased  to  call  the  Old  World. 

Of  this  gem  of  the  Pacific  Coast  that  noted  English 
writer,  James  Bryce  has  said: 

"Few  cities  in  the  world  can  vie  with  San  Francisco, 
either  in  the  beauty  or  in  the  natural  advantages  of  her  sit- 
uation. Indeed,  there  are  only  two  places  in  Europe — 
Constantinople  and  Gibralter — that  combine  an  equally 
perfect  landscape,  with  what  may  be  called  an  equally  im- 
perial position.  Before  you  there  is  a  magnificent  bay, 
with  its  far-reaching  arms  and  rocky  isles,  and  beyond  the 
faint  line  of  the  Sierra  Nevada  Mountains  cutting  the  clear 
air  like  mother-of-pearl;  between  the  mountains  through 
which  ships  bear  in  commerce  from  the  furthest  shores  of 
the  Pacific;  to  the  right,  valleys  rich  with  corn  and  wine, 
sweeping  away  to  the  southern  horizon.  The  city  itself  is 
full  of  bald  hills,  rising  steeply  from  the  deep  water.  The 
air  is  keen,  dry  and  bright,  like  the  air  of  Greece,  and  the 
waters  not  less  blue.  Perhaps  it  is  the  air  and  light,  re- 
calling the  cities  of  the  Mediterranean,  that  make  one  in- 
voluntarily look  up  to  the  tops  of  these  hills  for  the  feudal 
castle,  or  the  ruins  of  the  Acropolis,  which  one  thinks  must 
crown  them." 

It  has  been  said  that  nowhere  else  will  you  see,  at 
one  time,  so  many  tall  ships  as  here  come  from  around  the 
Horn,  from  China,  from  Sidney,  from  the  Indies,  but  marked 
amid  that  crowd  of  deep-sea  giants  is  another  class  of  craft— 

145 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 


THE  LIBRARY,  HOTEL  ST.  FRANCIS. 

the  island  schooner,  low  in  the  water,  with  lofty  spars  and 
dainty  lines,  rigged  and  fashioned  like  a  yacht,  manned 
with  brown-skinned,  soft-spoken,  sweet-eyed  native  sailors, 
and  equipped  with  their  great  double-ender  boats  that  tell 
the  tale  of  boisterous  sea  beaches. 

The  honor  of  discovering  San  Francisco  Bay  fell  to 
the  lot  of  Caspar  de  Portola,  on  November  7th,  1769.  It, 
however,  remained  for  the  gallant  and  valiant  Lieutenant 
Juan  de  Ayala,  in  August,  1775,  to  sail  through  the  Golden 
Gate  into  that  perfect  land-locked  harbor  of  San  Francisco 
Bay,  spread  its  fame  to  the  world  and  make  it  the  pride  of 
navigators  from  that  day  henceforth.  The  magnitude  of 

146 


THE  ITALIAN  QUARTER — MAKE  THEIR  OWN  CLARET, 
SAN  FRANCISCO. 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 

the  bay  may  be  understood  when  we  tell  that  it  is  40  miles 
long  and  6  miles  across.  The  entrance  to  the  bay  is 
through  the  Golden  Gate,  a  rocky,  cliff -lined  strait,  5  miles 
long  and  a  mile  wide  in  its  narrowest  part. 

The  United  States,  recognizing  the  value  of  San  Fran- 
cisco Bay,  and  the  importance  of  the  Golden  Gate  strait, 
have,  at  great  expense,  fortified  it  with  the  most  modern 
ordinance,  making  it  the  best  defended  harbor  entrance  in 
the  Nation.  On  the  bay  are  located  the  Mare  Island  navy 
yard  and  the  Union  Iron  Works,  where  Uncle  Sam's  finest 
cruisers  are  built  and  repaired.  It  was  at  the  Union  Iron 
Works  that  the  cruiser  Oregon  was  built,  which,  with  Cap- 
tain Clark  in  command,  made  such  a  fast  run  from  San 
Francisco  around  Cape  Horn,  and  arrived  off  the  coast  of 
Cuba  in  time  to  win  fame  and  aid  Admiral  Schley  in 
sending  Admiral  Cervera's  Spanish  fleet  to  Davy  Jones' 
locker  during  the  late  Spanish-American  war. 

There,  at  the  edge  of  the  bay  stands  the  Presidio, 
Uncle  Sam's  crack  military  post  of  the  Pacific  Coast.  Here 
is  always  quartered  a  large  garrison  of  foot  soldiers  and 
artillery,  and  since  we  have  owned  the  Phillipine  Islands  it 
has  become  the  out-fitting  post  for  that  field  of  service. 

Clustering  around  San  Francisco  Bay  like  beautiful 
gems  in  the  queen's  crown,  are  the  pretty  towns  of  Oakland, 
Alameda,  San  Rafael,  Belvedere,  Sausalito,  San  Mateo  and 
others,  giving  the  business  men  of  San  Francisco  all  the 
delights  of  suburban  residence,  with  quick  and  frequent 
ferry  and  train  service  to  the  city. 

The  population  of  San  Francisco,  like  every  other 
metropolitan  city,  is  very  cosmopolitan  in  its  character. 
Here  are  found  some  of  all  nations,  and,  after  the  Ameri- 

147 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 

cans  in  the  largest  number,  come  the  Asiatics,  there  being 
about  40,000  Chinamen  in  the  city.  It  is  estimated  that 
there  are  also  over  10,000  Japanese  in  the  city.  The  ma- 
jority of  the  Chinese  are  house-servants,  though  they  are 
found  in  all  trades  and  professions,  except  that  of  lawyers. 
They  also  conduct  large  wholesale  and  retail  dry  goods 
stores.  They  publish  two  highly  creditable  daily  newspa- 
pers in  their  own  languape.  The  Chinese  dwell  in  a  sepa- 
rate section  of  the  city  called  Chinatown. 

San  Francisco  has  among  its  population  many  million- 
aires, a'mong  whom  are  the  Stanfords,  Hopkinses,  Crockers, 
Spreckles  and  others.  Their  magnificent  and  stately  pal- 
aces crown  the  summit  of  that  portion  of  the  city  called 
Nob's  Hill.  There  are  but  few  of  the  very  poor  within  the 
city  limits,  for  there  is  plenty  of  work  for  all  who  desire  to 
labor,  and  none  need  go  hungry  or  shelterless.  The  city 
has  many  large  and  diversified  manufactories,  making  al- 
most anything  from  a  cracker  at  10  cents  a  pound  to  a  power- 
ful and  death-dealing  man-of-war  costing  several  million 
dollars.  The  manufactures  of  San  Francisco  last  year  ran 
near  $100,000,000.  The  stores  are  large  and  fine,  and  the 
line  of  goods  as  choice  and  extensive  as  can  be  found  in 
any  eastern  emporium.  The  store  buildings  are  high,  mas- 
sive and.  of  imposing  appearance,  built  of  stone,  brick  and 
steel.  The  bank  clearances  of  San  Francisco  last  year 
amounted  well  on  to  the  great  sum  of  $2,000,000,000. 

The  streets  are  wide;  clean,  finely  paved,  well  lighted 
and  well  policed.  The  street  car  lines  are  among  the  finest 
in  the  world,  and  their  equipment  and  operation  by  electric- 
ity and  cables  are  models  of  excellence.  Through  the 
streets  and  up  and  down  the  steep  hills  the  trolleys  and  ca- 

148 


THE    ORIENTIAL  STREET    VENDERS,  CHINATOWN, 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 

bles  run  with  an  ease,  evenness  and  precision  that  might 
well  be  copied  in  the  East.  You  can  go  all  over  the  city 
by  means  of  the  admirable  system  of  exchanges  for  the  ex- 
penditure of  a  single  nickel.  The  five-cent-fare  might  well 
be  adopted  by  many  railways  in  the  East  to  the  satisfaction 
of  the  people. 

San  Francisco  is  distinctly  a  city  of  homes,  but  there 
are  many  eastern-like  apartment  flats,  where  many  families 
live,  do  light-housekeeping  and  dine  out  in  the  most  ad- 
mirable system  of  restaurants  scattered  throughout  the  city. 
The  people  can  live  there  as  comfortably  and  as  cheaply  as 
in  any  other  part  of  our  great  country. 

The  city  has  one  of  the  greatest  parks  in  the  world, 
called  the  Golden  Gate  Park.  It  is  truly  beautiful  and  ex- 
tensive, being  three  and  one-half  miles  long.  Within  its 
borders  are  1,013  acres  valued  at  $15,000,000.  It  is  a 
wonderful  pleasure  ground  of  beautiful  flowers,  majestic 
trees,  rare  shrubs,  green  and  rolling  lawns,  broad  drives, 
winding  walks  and  various  opportunities  for  recreation  of  all 
sorts.  With  the  aid  of  nature,  the  billowy  waters  and 
skilled  landscape  artists,  the  city  has  formed  and  fashioned 
a  park  of  wonderous  beauty.  In  addition  to  the  Golden 
Gate  Park,  there  is  grand  private  park  which  has  become 
as  famous  as  San  Francisco  herself;  that  is  Sutro  Park, 
where  the  Cliff  House  is  located.  This  unique  and  beauti- 
ful park  was  projected,  planned  and  planted  by  an  eccentric 
millionaire,  Adolph  Sutro.  The  park  is  filled  with  rare 
botanical  specimens  and  adorned  with  the  most  beautiful 
and  charming  tropical  flowers,  plants  and  trees,  while  scat- 
tered through  the  grounds  are  fine  statues  of  all  the  graceful 
goddesses  and  gods  known  to  Greek  and  Roman  mythol- 

149 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 


THE  CLIFF  HOUSE  AND   BATHING  BEACH. 

ogy.  This  park,  with  all  its  beauty  of  form,  arrangement 
and  color,  has  been  thrown  open  by  its  owners  to  the  free 
inspection  of  the  public.  It  is  situated  on  Sutro  Heights, 
just  outside  the  city  limits,  on  a  large  and  imposing  rocky 
cliff  overlooking  the  blue  waters  of  the  Pacific  Ocean, 
which  beat  with  an  angry  roar  against  the  rocks  at  its  base. 
Just  outside  the  park  limits,  on  the  highest  rock,  overlook- 
ing the  turbulent  waves,  is  built  the  Cliff  House,  famous 
the  world  over,  where  the  city  people  gather  for  a  social 
outing  and  the  baths.  Adjoining  the  Cliff  House  are  the 
celebrated  Sutro  Baths,  which  are  well  worth  a  visit,  for 
they  are  the  largest  and  most  magnificent  in  the  world,  and 
are  planned  with  an  eye  to  beauty  and  utility.  They  far 
surpass  in  both  beauty  and  size  the  famous  and  sumptuous 

150 


STRANGE  CRAFT  OF  ALL  NATIONS  ARE  SEEN  IN 
SAN  FRANCISCO  BAY. 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 

marble  baths  of  Caracalla,  of  Diocletian  and  of  Titus, 
whose  ruins  in  Rome  continue  to  excite  the  wonder  and 
admiration  of  the  civilized  world.  Here  are  hot  and  cold 
baths,  tub  and  plunge  baths.  In  the  Sutro  Baths  are  sev- 
eral bathing  tanks  varying  in  size  from  the  smallest  to  the 
large  magnificent  swimming  pool,  with  accommodations  for 
2,000  swimmers,  and  all  are  filled  with  constantly  changing 
heated  sea  water.  There  is  also  surf  bathing  in  the  summer. 

Out  in  the  ocean,  a  short  distance  from  the  beach, 
three  immense,  formidable  and  rugged  rocks,  called  the 
Seal  Rocks,  rise  sheer  out  of  the  ocean  waves.  Here  on 
bright  days  hundreds  of  seals,  "bulls"  and  "cows"  and 
their  young,  can  be  seen,  either  sporting  in  the  waves  or 
lazily  sunning  themselves  on  the  sides  of  the  rocks.  A 
visit  to  San  Francisco  would  be  incomplete  unless  one  had 
seen  the  Seal  Rocks  and  the  seals  and  sealets. 

Everywhere  that  one  turns  in  the  city  there  is  some- 
thing to  please  and  admire.  The  beauty,  strength  and 
activity  of  the  city  are  seen  on  every  side.  With  the  num- 
erous steamship  lines  sailing  out  to  all  the  principal  ports  of 
the  world,  and  many  trans-continental  steam  railroad  lines 
reaching  her  doors  from  the  east,  San  Francisco  can  easily 
maintain  her  supremacy  as  a  first-class  sea  port.  Of  the 
trans-continental  lines  reaching  the  city,  the  chief  and  most 
important  are  the  Southern  Pacific,  the  Central  Pacific  and 
the  Atchison,  Topeka  and  Santa  Fe  routes.  An  idea  of 
the  wealth  of  the  city  may  be  gained  from  the  fact  that  the 
assessed  valuation  of  her  property  closely  approximates 
$500,000,000,  and  the  real  value  is  placed  by  some  at 
three  times  these  figures.  San  Francisco  has  more  million- 
aires in  accordance  with  her  population  than  any  other  city 

151 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 

in  our  country.  The  city  is  full  of  clubs.  It  has  its  ex- 
clusive Union  League,  its  Merchants'  Club,  University, 
San  Francisco,  Lawyers'  Club,  Cosmos,  Art  Club,  Bohem- 
ian, Olympic  and  Concordia,  suiting  all  tastes  an  inclinations. 
The  social  and  religious  side  of  San  Francisco  is  on  a  par 
with  the  other  great  cities  of  the  country,  and  here  are 
churches  of  all  denominations,  even  including  a  place  of 
worship  for  the  Buddist  and  Joss  Houses  for  the  heathen 
Chinese.  There  are  five  daily  newspapers  printed  in  the 
English  language,  viz:  The  Examiner,  Call,  Post,  Chron- 
ical and  Bulletin.  There  are  12  first-class  theatres,  nine 
public  libraries  and  five  museums — the  Academy  of  Scien- 
ces, the  State  Mining  Bureau,  the  State  Board  of  Trade,  the 
Pacific  Commercial  Museum  and  the  Alaska  Museum. 
Here  are  many  fine  opportunities  for  the  wide-awake  and 
alert  citizen,  male  and  female,  to  make  fortunes  if  their  en- 
ergy and  industry  are  rightly  applied.  The  city,  in  the 
number  and  size  of  its  palatial  hotels  and  fine  restaurants, 
is  not  excelled  by  any  city  in  the  East.  There  are  hund- 
reds of  first-class  restaurants  of  all  kinds  scattered  through- 
out the  city,  to  suit  all  peoples.  There  are  the  American, 
English,  Italian,  French,  German,  Mexican,  Austrian, 
Swiss,  Swedish,  Russian,  Japanese  and  Chinese.  You 
can  take  your  choice  and  dine  cheaply,  or  you  can  go  to 
the  swell  cafe  and  spend  just  as  much  as  you  desire. 

Among  the  most  potent  factors  in  promoting  and  ad- 
vancing the  city's  interest  and  substantial  progress  is  the 
California  Promotion  Committee  of  San  Francisco.  This 
committee  is  composed  of  well-known,  able  and  public 
spirited  citizens,  who  give  their  services  gratuitously.  At 
their  head  stands  Andrea  Sharboro,  the  chairman,  a  man  of 

152 


THE  SENTINEL  OF  THE  TONG — HIGHBINDERS, 
CHINATOWN,   SAN   FRANCISCO. 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 

wide  experience  and  liberal  views.  The  efforts  of  this  com- 
mittee are  supplemented  and  ably  seconded  by  the  Cham- 
ber of  Commerce  and  kindred  organizations  of  the  city. 
This  Promotion  Committee  and  members  of  the  Chamber 
of  Commerce  were  very  zealous  and  affable  in  looking  after 
our  interests  while  in  the  city. 

The  special  trolley  cars  quickly  transferred  us  from 
the  Southern  Pacific  depot  to  the  new  and  magnificent 
Hotel  St.  Francis  on  Union  Square,  which  was  to  be  our 
headquarters  during  our  sojourn  in  the  city.  On  reaching 
the  St.  Francis  we  found  that  we  had  been  assigned  rooms 
in  advance  of  our  arrival,  and  all  we  had  to  do  was  to  take 
our  key  and  ascend  by  one  of  the  elevators  to  our  regal 
apartments.  In  a  few  minutes  we  were  all  agreeably  and 
comfortably  located,  and  more  than  pleased  with  our  hand- 
some surroundings  and  reasonable  rates.  Each  room  has 
its  private  bath  and  toilet,  steam  heat,  electric  lights,  elec- 
tric reading  lamps  at  the  bed-side  and  private  long-distance 
telephone,  with  all  the  seclusion  of  a  private  boudoir. 

The  Hotel  St.  Francis  is  one  of  the  most  imposing 
and  palatial  hotels  on  the  Pacific  Coast,  affording  all  the 
comforts  that  the  most  fastidious  taste  could  desire.  It  is  a 
building  12  stories  high,  combining  strength,  beauty  and 
safety  in  its  entire  construction.  It  stands  on  the  sloping 
side  of  Nobs  Hill  overlooking  the  beautiful  tropical  garden 
of  Union  Square  Park.  Every  room  is  an  outside  room, 
and  from  every  window  may  be  had  an  incomparable  pano- 
ramic view  of  bay,  mountains  and  rolling  hills.  This  hotel 
was  erected  at  an  expense  of  $5,000,000,  and  the  best  of 
everything  and  the  latest  improvements  were  used  in  its 
construction.  It  was  opened  March  24th,  1904,  and  at 

153 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 

once  leaped  to  the  front  ranks  of  the  city's  palatial   hotels. 
In  the  great  white  and  gold  concert   room  of  the  hotel  are 
held  the  most  select  musical  soirees  of  the  city.     The  most 
interesting  literary  and  art  saloons  of  the  Pacific  Coast  are 
held  in  the  Sequoia  Club  rooms  of  the  hotel.     Everything 
is   planned   for  the   comfort    and   pleasure  of   the   guests. 
There  is  the   beautiful  principal   dining  room  done  in  the 
French  style,  with  the  sides  of  the  room  lined  with  majestic 
columns  done  in  white  and  gold.     The  quaint  Dutch  Rath- 
skeller and   the  Tyrolean  grill  room,  with  its  rich  colorings, 
attracts  and   pleases  the   patrons  of  light  lunches,  or  after- 
theatre  parties.     The  ball   room,  with  its  •  high  ceiling  and 
lofty  columns,  is    a  place  of   imperial  grandeur.     The  feel- 
ing of  luxurious  comfort   pervades   the  entire  hotel;  all  the 
corners    are  smooth,  and   there  are   no   noises   to  jar   the 
nerves.     Valets,  maids,  barbers,  bell  boys   and  "boots"  are 
all  on  the  alert   to  attend  the   wants  of   the  guests  in  their 
rooms.     If   you  are  studiously  inclined,  you  can  walk  into 
the  handsomely  and   richly  furnished  hotel    library,  on  the 
first  floor,  and  find  there  4,000  volumes  of   fiction  and  sci- 
ence from  which  to  choose  your  reading.     The  cold  storage 
plant,  the  grocery,  the   butcher  shop,  the  kitchen  and  bak- 
ery are  all  on  a  mammoth  scale,  and   so  arranged  as  to  fill 
the  tables  with  the  richest    and  choicest  dainties  to  please 
the  appetite  of  the  most  exacting  epicure.     The  hotel,  with 
all  its  luxurious  appointments,  beautiful    location  and  most 
excellent  cuisine,  leaves  nothing   to  be   desired;  all  is  joy, 
peace,  comfort    and    satisfaction   within  its    doors — if   you 
have  the  price. 


154 


THE  PLAYFUL  SEALS  ON  THE  FAMOUS  SEAL  ROCKS, 
CLIFF  HOUSE,  SAN  FRANCISCO. 


CHAPTER   XXI. 


CHINATOWN — THE    BARBARIC — MYSTIC    AND    WONDROUS. 

AFTER  taking   our  dinner  that  Friday   evening,  June 
23d,  at  the  Hotel  St.  Francis,  we  found  awaiting  us  in 
the  hotel   lobby  a   number  of  the  city   police   in    citizen's 


clothes,  who  had 
through  the  kind 
or  and  chief-of- 
all  the  sights  and 
quaint  and  Orien 
city — Chinato  w  n 
party  was  divided 
20,  and  each 
liceman  as  guide, 
plore  the  haunts 


TYPICAL    CHINESE 
CHILDREN. 


been  detailed 
ness  of  the  may- 
police,  to  show  us 
mysteries  of  that 
tal  part  of  the 
by  gas-light.  Our 
up  into  squads  of 
headed  by  a  po- 
sallied  forth  to  ex- 
of  the  wily  Ori- 
expecting  to  see 


ental,  many 
gruesome  sights,  but  they  saw  them  not,  for  the  excellent 
police  supervision,  aided  by  the  Highbinders,  had  closed 
and  blotted  out  those  most  noisome  sights  which  of  yore 
had  flourished  and  festered  in  the  Chinese  quarters. 

Chinatown  with  its  some  50,000  Mongolians  is  crowd- 
ed into  an  area  of  about  20  city  squares.  The  "Chinks," 
as  the  Chinamen  are  called,  are  closely  packed  into  their 
quarters  like  sardines  in  a  box.  In  some  of  the  large  tene- 
ments there  are  often  from  four  to  five  floors  densely  crowd- 
ed, above  the  ground,  and  three  to  four  stories  under  the 

155 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 


THE  OPIUM  DEN  AND  ITS  VICTIM. 

ground.  In  some  of  the  small  rooms  there  are  packed  as 
many  as  30  or  40  individuals,  who  sleep  on  hard,  narrow 
board  shelves,  or  bunks,  placed  one  above  another,  like 
shelves  in  a  store.  The  Chinese,  notwithstanding  such 
crowding  and  close  quarters,  is,  as  a  rule,  quiet,  orderly, 
friendly  and  peaceful.  Yet  there  is  much  genuine  wicked- 
ness and  depravity  hidden  in  the  innermost  recesses  of  the 
"Quarter,"  and  much  opium  is  smoked  by  its  enchanted 
victims,  but  it  is  not  done  openly.  It  is  asserted  that  many 
of  the  wealthy  Chinese  merchants  not  only  have  a  wife  in 
China,  but  also  maintains  one  or  two  American  wives  in 
luxury  in  Chinatown,  who  have  damned  their  souls  and  en- 
tered into  voluntary  slavery  out  of  love  of  the  extatic  intox- 
ication of  that  alluring  and  baleful  drug — opium. 

In  a  moment  we  seemed  to  have  been  instantly  trans- 
ported bodily  and  set  down  suddenly  in  a  picturesque  corner 
of  the  Orient.  The  dim,  soft,  quavering  light  shimmering 

156 


THE  LIFE  OF  EASE,  MEXICAN  QUARTER,  SAN  FRANCISCO. 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 

from  the  many-colored  and  queer-shaped  lanterns,  the  gro- 
tesque signs,  with  their  spider-like  hieroglyphics,  the  quaint 
and  flitting  forms,  with  their  flowing  costumes,  the  clatter- 
ing of  the  sandaled  feet,  their  dark  almond-shaped  eyes,  all 
tended  to  increase  the  feeling  of  strangeness,  mystery  and 
the  foreign  air  of  it  all,  and  make  one  fairly  believe  that  he 
is  in  the  native  haunts  of  the  Celestial. 

We  penetrated  dark  and  narrow  streets  and  saw 
thousands  of  Chinese,  young  and  old,  at  peaceful  occupa- 
tions— barbers,  shoemakers,  groceries,  meat  markets,  cabi- 
net makers,  apothecaries,  laundries,  dry  goods  stores  filled 
with  trinkets,  curios,  gold  and  silver  work  and  rich  Orien- 
tal goods,  displayed  by  affable,  smiling,  almond-eyed 
clerks. 

On  every  side  was  a  continual  chatter,  and  in  the 
Chinese  tongue,  of  which  we  understood  not  a  word.  We 
looked  into  all  kinds  of  shops  and  houses,  and  in  some  of 
the  shops  we  saw  gathered  the  proprietors,  clerks  and  their 
friends  playing  the  national  game  of  fan-tan,  the  winners 
and  loosers  alike  very  sober  and  intent  on  the  game. 

On  one  of  the  by  streets  we  saw  a  high-caste  lady 
dressed  in  rich  silks  tottering  along  on  her  bound  and  com- 
pressed little  feet.  They  were  bound  so  tightly  and  cruelly 
that  they  were  not  more  than  an  inch  and  a  half  long.  The 
wonder  was  that  she  could  move  along  at  all.  Following 
this  lady  were  two  little  children  who  looked  for  all  the 
world  like  over-grown  Chinese  dolls.  Some  of  us  entered  a 
Chinese  theatre  at  the  price  of  two  bits  per  head  to  see  the 
play.  The  Chinese  theatre  has  the  longest  plays  in  the 
•world.  Sometimes  the  play  will  start  at  noon  and  proceed 
all  through  the  following  night  without  intermission.  To 

157 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 

us  it  seemed  a  burlesque.  The  actors,  in  their  quaint  and 
curious  costumes  and  grotesque  make-up,  uttered  loud  cries 
that  seemed  without  humor  or  pathos — then  the  orchestra 

creating  a  din  with  their  tom-toms, 
making  a  hideous  noise,  devoid  of 
either  time,  harmony  or  melody- 
served  only  to  make  us  laugh  at 
the  grotesqueness  of  the  whole  af- 
fair. The  attempts  at  scenic  effect 
were  exceedingly  crude.  A  bowl  of 
water  represented  the  ocean,  and  a 
r*,^  dwarf  tree  in  a  flower-pot  symbol- 
ized a  forest.  We  soon  left  the 
theatre,  thinking  our  fifty  cents 
dearly  spent,  yet  the  Chinese  spec- 
STAR  ACTOR,  CHINESE  tators  seemed  highly  pleased  and 

THEATRE.  elated  over  the  performance. 

A  barber  shop  in  full  operation  attracted  our  attention 
and  afforded  much  amusement.  The  victim  of  the  tonsor- 
ial  artist  squats  on  the  floor,  holding  in  his  hands,  in  front 
of  him,  a  china  basin  containing  the  lather  and  hot  water, 
while  the  barber  copiously  lathers  the  victim's  face,  head, 
ears  and  neck.  The  head  and  face  are  then  scraped  until 
they  are  as  smooth  as  a  billiard  ball.  The  barber  completes 
the  operation  by  cleaning  out  the  ears,  eye-lids  and  eyes, 
straightens  the  eye-brows  and  brushes  and  oils  the  quene— 
an  operation  requiring  skill  and  patience  on  the  part  of  the 
operator,  and  endurance  on  the  part  of  the  victim. 

There  are  a  number  of  fine  joss  houses,  or  Chinese 
temples,  in  Chinatown.  Each  band,  or  "company,"  as  the 
Chinese  societies  are  called,  have  their  own  particular  gods 

158 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 

and  joss  houses.  We  visited  one  of  the  finest  of  these,  which 
was  richly  furnished   with   carved   woods    and  ivories  and 


A  STREET  OF  RESIDENCES,   CHINATOWN. 

159 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 

was  ruled  over  by  the  fiercest-looking  and  most  hideous 
idol  gods  we  had  ever  seen.  Ugliness  seems  to  be  more 
attractive  than  beauty  in  the  Chinese  gods.  Here  we 
found  several  venerable,  wizen-faced  priests,  or  attendants, 
who  seemed  think  their  chief  duty  was  to  sell  us  small 
bunches  of  heathen  incense  sticks  at  75  cents  a  bunch,  and 
grew  quite  angry  and  vociferous  when  we  declined  to  in- 
vest in  aromatic  punk  for  the  benefit  of  the  god  and  his 
humble  servitor.  We  left  the  temple  with  the  priest's 
threats,  which  we  understood  not,  thundering  in  our  ears. 

The  office  of  a  real  live  Chinese  daily  newspaper,  a 
few  houses  further  on,  attracted  our  attention,  and  we  in- 
spected the  Oriental  print  shop  and  its  contents,  parting 
with  a  nickle  apiece  for  a  copy  of  the  unique  paper.  We 
could  see  that  it  was  giving  all  the  news  of  the  Russo-Jap- 
anese war,  but  just  what  it  said  was 
beyond  us.  We  sought  out  the 
most  elaborately  furnished  tea  house, 
or  Chinese  restaurant,  and  entered, 
drank  strong  tea,  eat  rice  cakes, 
swallowed  rich  preserves  and  sick- 
eningly  sweet  confections,  and  tried 
unskillfully  to  use  chop-sticks,  in- 
stead of  knives  and  forks.  We  sat 
at  a  richly  hand-carved  teak-wood 
table,  having  a  beautiful  mosaic 
THE  BELLE  OF  OTINA-markje  tOp^  Then  we  investigated 
TOWN.  the  mysteries  of  the  Chinese  kitch- 

en and  felt  worse  for  the  investigation.  We  visited  a  large 
wholesale  and  retail  store  farther  up  the  street,  said  to  be 
owned  and  operated  by  the  richest  Chinese  merchant  in  the 

160 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 

world.  We  can  readily  believe  that  assertion,  for  the  shop 
was  filled  with  rare  and  rich  curios  and  beautiful,  magnifi- 
cent silks  and  satins,  but  the  prices  were  away  up  in  the  air, 
yet  many  of  the  ladies  bought  the  dainty  wares. 

Thus  we  saw  Chinatown,  and  found  not  a  single  opium 
den  or  other  evil  place  open.  If  they  existed  they  had 
shrunken  into  their  shells  and  were  hidden  away.  Soon  we 
returned  to  the  hotel  to  retire  and  rest  for  the  morrow. 

The  Chinaman  has  many  strange  and  curious  customs 
which  it  would  ill  become  the  Christian  to  adopt.  Yet  the 
Heathen  Chinese  has  one  practice  that  puts  many  another 
nation  to  shame.  It  is  this — before  the  Chinese  New  Year 
dawns,  and  the  "Chink"  commences  the  noisy,  hilarious 
celebration  of  it,  he  must,  and  does,  pay  off  all  his  old 
debts.  It  is  considered  an  everlasting  disgrace  for  him  to 
enter  the  New  Year  with  debts  on  his  back;.  The  Chinese 
end  the  old  year  with  all  manner  of  uproarious  noises,  beat- 
ing of  gongs  and  other  unmusical  instruments,  with  fire- 
works of  all  kinds,  and  with  burning  the  Devil  in  effigy. 
The  burial  of  a  Chinaman  is  a  ceremonious  and  solemn 
affair.  As  the  funeral  cortege  proceeds  to  the  cemetery, 
with  the  beating  of  tom-toms,  with  the  weeping  of  the  hired 
mourners,  and  with  numerous  and  costly  gifts,  innumerable 
pieces  of  brightly  colored  paper,  in  which  thousands  of  holes 
have  been  punched,  are  strewn  along  the  way.  This 
strewing  of  paper  along  the  route  is  to  protect  the  soul  of 
the  departed  Celestial,  for  the  Devil  has  to  pass  through 
every  one  of  the  holes  in  the  bits  of  paper,  and  before  he 
can  accomplish  that  feat  the  soul  of  the  Chinaman  is  so  far 
ahead  in  the  race  that  he  never  is  caught,  and  reaches  the 
"Realms  of  the  Blest"  in  safety.  On  the  Chinaman's  grave 

161 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 

are  placed  all  manner  of  confections,  cakes  sweet-meats  and 
cooked  meats  for  the  sustenance  of  the  Chinaman's  soul 
while  it  travels  Heavenward.  Both  the  Chinese  and  Jap- 
anese make  it  part  of  their  religion  to  honor  their  departed 
ancestors,  which  they  do  by  offering  prayers  at  the  joss 
house,  or  temple,  and  by  placing  gifts  on  the  graves  of  the 
departed.  The  great  mystery  to  the  Caucasian  is  what  be- 
comes of  these  gifts  left  in  the  place  of  burial?  They  dis- 
appear after  a  time,  but  certainly  the  spirits  do  not  take 
them  or  eat  them. 

As  all  days  in  San  Francisco  are  days  of  sunshine, 
the  next  day  dawned  bright  and  fair,  and  our  party  started 
early  on  special  trolley  cars  provided  by  the  Chamber  of 
Commerce  to  see  all  the  sights  of  the  city.  The  cars 
started  from  the  business  section  of  the  city,  and  from  there 
passed  on  to  the  residence  section,  where  we  saw  the  hand- 
some and  comfortable  homes  of  the  well-to-do  people,  and 
gazed  with  wonder  and  admiration  on  the  gorgeous  palaces 
of  the  wealthy.  From  the  high  hills  we  were  afforded 
beautiful  views  of  the  city  and  charming  vistas  of  the  bay 
and  the  Golden  Gate.  One  innocent  damsel  from  the  Mid- 
dle West,  to  the  amusement  of  her  chums,  asked  the  guide 
to  point  out  the  Golden  Gate,  "for,"  said  she,  "I  cannot  see 
any  gate.  I  can  only  see  large  bare  rocks."  To  her  the 
whole  thing  was  a  disappointment,  for  the  little  innocent 
expected  to  see  an  actual  shiny  gate  of  gold,  hinges  and  all, 
with  the  latch-string  hanging  out.  Several  hours  were  con- 
sumed in  touring  the  city,  viewing  the  houses,  inspecting 
the  missions  and  seeing  the  stately  churches,  cathedrals  and 
synagogues,  when  we  returned  to  the  hotel  in  time  for 
lunch. 

162 


CHAPTER  XXII. 

OAKLAND — MOUNT  TAMALPAIS — THE  CROOKEDEST  RAIL- 
ROAD IN  THE  WORLD. 

THE  afternoon  was  taken  up  with  excursions  to  the 
near-by  suburbs  of  the  city.  The  first  and  principal 
one  was  Oakland,  six  miles  across  the  San  Francisco  Bay. 
To  the  surprise  of  many  of  our  party  Oakland  was  found  to 
be  a  first-class  city,  covering  18  square  miles,  with  fine 
municipal  improvements  and  excellent  trolley  car  service. 
A  number  of  trans-continental  railroads  terminate  here  and 
the  passengers  and  freight  transferred  to  San  Francisco  in 
ferry  boats.  Oakland  has  15  miles  of  water  frontage,  upon 
which  are  located  large  iron  and  steel  works,  ship  yards, 
lumber  yards,  coal  bunkers,  cotton  mills,  potteries,  tanner- 
ies, magnesite  works,  borax  and  oil  refineries.  The  popu- 
lation is  about  110,000,  and  is  filled  with  attractive  and 
beautiful  residences  standing  far  back  on  pretty,  well-kept 
lawns,  adorned  with  sweet  flowers  and  handsome  shrubbery. 
Many  San  Francisco  business  men  have  their  homes  in 
Oakland.  As  a  proof  that  the  place  is  growing  rapidly  the 
Board  of  Trade  pointed  to  the  fact  that  1,571  new  residen- 
ces were  erected  there  last  year. 

Another  suburb  hurriedly  visited  was  Berkley,  where 
is  situated  the  magnificent  University  of  California.  This 
university  has  the  most  famous  ampitheatre  in  the  world. 

163 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST, 


It  is  a  natural  hollow  in  the 
mountain,  surrounded  with  mas- 
rive  circles  of  seats,  tier  above 
tier,  made  out  of  concrete,  with 
a  seating  capacity  of  8,000  peo- 
ple. The  speaker's  rostrum  is 
in  the  centre,  and  the  speaker's 
voice  can  be  easily  and  distinct- 
ly heard  in  any  portion  of  that 
vast  circus.  Here  it  was  that 
President  Roosevelt  delivered 
an  eloquent  and  famous  com- 
mencement address,  May  14th, 
1903.  The  University  of  Cal- 
ifornia <has  taken  high  rank 
among  the  educational  institu- 
tions of  the  country.  It  has  an 
endowment  of  about  $15,000,- 
000.  Its  yearly  income  is  about 
$500,000,  thus  making  it  inde- 
pendent of  tuition  fees  for  its 
success.  The  professors  are  the 
finest  and  ablest  that  can  be 
had  in  this  country,  and  the 
student  body  are  as  fine  speci- 
mens of  brawn,  muscle  and 
brains  as  can  be  found  in  the 
length  and  breadth  of  the  land. 
In  the  afternoon  we  took  a  short 
trip  out  from  San  Francisco, 
which  proved  to  be  one  of  the 

164 


o 


35 

Q 

§ 

in 


D 

o 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 

most  beautiful  and  pleasant  of  the  entire  tour.  A  small 
party  of  us  took  a  mammoth  ferry  boat  from  its  pier  and 
enjoyed  a  delightful  run  down  the  bay,  sailing  close  to  the 
wharves  and  giant  ships  and  foreign  feluccas,  passing  the 
pretty  islands  of  Alcatraz  and  Angel,  to  Sausalito  on  the 
northern  side  of  San  Francisco  Bay.  At  Sausalito  we 
entered  the  cars  of  the  North  Shore  Railroad  and  passed 
along  Richardson's  Bay  (an  arm  of  San  Francisco  Bay) 
some  six  miles  to  Mill  Valley,  the  situation  of  which  is  so 
picturesque  and  charming  that  it  has  been  christened  the 
Switzerland  of  America.  Mill  Valley  is  situated  at  the 
foot  of  Mt.  Tamalpais,  the  most  romantic  and  picturesque 
mountain  in  California.  Long  before  the  days  of  the  Cali- 
fornia gold  excitement  the  northern  part  of  the  State,  and 
especially  in  the  neighborhood  of  this  peak,  was  possessed 
and  occupied  by  a  powerful  Indian  tribe  called  the  Tamals, 
and  from  their  name  and  the  word  pais,  meaning  country, 
the  mountain  took  its  name. 

At  Mill  Valley  we  found  awaiting  us  four  cars  and  a 
powerful  mountain-climbing  engine  to  take  us  to  the  sum- 
mit of  the  mountain.  This  railroad  up  the  mountain  was 
built  in  1896,  and  is  a  standard  broad  gauge  railroad,  with 
steam  oil  burning  locomotives  of  a  powerful  and  special 
type.  It  is  not  a  cog-wheel  road,  and,  strange  to  say,  has 
no  steep  inclines.  The  grade  is  gradual,  averaging  5  feet 
to  the  100.  The  road  is  known  as  "The  Crookedest  Rail- 
road in  the  World,"  and  it  fully  justifies  the  name,  as  with- 
in its  81-5  miles  there  are  281  curves,  which  if  they  were 
continuous  would  make  42  complete  circles.  The  longest 
piece  of  straight  track  is  413  feet,  and  that  occurs  in  that 
part  of  the  line  where  the  road  makes  a  complete  double 

165 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 


bow-knot.  At  one  point  of  the  road,  on  the  ascent,  you  can 
see  five  different  pieces  of  the  road  lying  like  steps  in  the 
mountain  below  you. 

The  top  of   the   peak  is    about  2,600   feet  above   the 
level  of  the   bay,  but  the  ascent  is  so  gradual  that  you  do 

not  fully  appreciate  the 
height  and  there  is  nothing 
alarming  or  terrifying  in 
the  ride.  We  seated  our- 
selves in  the  open  observa- 
tion cars  prepared  to  enjoy 
what  proved  to  be  a  most 
glorious  and  exhilerating— 
nay,  entrancing  ride.  A  pre- 
liminary toot  of  the  locomo- 
tive whistle  and  a  wave  of 
the  hand  of  the  conductor 
and  we  were  off  on  our  trip 
up  toward  the  sky.  Immed- 
THE  DOUBLE  BOW-KNOT,  MT.  lately  after  leaving  Mill  Val- 
TAMALPAIS  RAILROAD.  ley  the  road  enters  a  forest 
of  our  old  friends,  the  majestic  redwood,  for  which  California 
is  so  famous.  Then  we  wind  through  the  beautiful  and 
romantic  canyon  of  Blithedale,  along  its  ever-flowing  and 
warbling  creek,  past  numerous  suburban  homes,  with  their 
picturesque  ponds  and  lakes,  Marsh's  Japanese  Village  and 
its  quaint  houses,  continually  ascending  higher.  Crossing 
the  head  of  that  canyon  the  road  swings  back  gradually 
rising  until  there  are  no  trees  to  obstruct  the  view,  except 
where  wooded  canyons  are  crossed,  filled  with  redwoods, 
medronas,  oaks  and  laurels,  lending  a  pleasant  variety  to 

166 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 

the  trip  and  preparing  for  the  next  outburst  of  the  pano- 
rama a  on  a  broader  scale.  Curving  through  the  canyons, 
looking  down  their  precipitous  sides,  the  road  crosses  over 
Silver  Gulch,  through  McKinley  Cut,  around  Summit  Av- 
enue, into  Mill  Valley  Canyon,  the  vast  panorama  expand- 
ing every  minute  as  the  Bay  of  San  Francisco  opens  out. 
Mt.  Diablo  in  the  east  slowly  pushes  its  great  bulk  above 
the  Coast  Range.  As  we  slowly  approach  the  summit  of 
Mt.  Tamalpais  the  scene  becomes  more  beautiful,  and  such 
a  vast  panorama  of  the  greatest  grandeur  and  beauty  is 
unfolded  before  us  as  beggars  the  powers  of  description  to 
fully  and  adequately  paint  it  in  words.  At  the  foot  of  the 
mountain  stretches  out  a  silvery  sheet,  the  waters  of  San 
Francisco  Bay.  Off  to  the  west  you  see  the  famous  Gold- 
en Gate,  and  reaching  from  the  Golden  Gate  away  to  the 
distant  horizon  are  the  billows  of  the  Pacific  Ocean  painted 
bright  by  the  golden  rays  of  the  setting  sun.  In  the  far 
distance  are  seen  San  Francisco,  the  Cliff  House,  Oakland, 
Alameda,  Berkley,  Mt.  Diablo,  Point  Richmond,  Mill  Val- 
ley, Belvedere  and  other  places. 

It  is  a  magnificently  beautiful  picture  that  far  surpasses 
any  view  we  have  ever  .seen,  either  in  this  country  or 
abroad,  and  one  that  will  long  remain  impressed  on  the 
tablets  of  our  memory.  At  the  top  of  the  peak  is  the 
Tavern  of  Tamalpais  which  has  very  fine  accommodations 
for  tourists  desiring  to  make  a  sojourn  there.  A  number 
of  Alpine  Clubs  of  young  men  and  women  have  been  formed 
in  San  Francisco,  who  climb  the  sides  of  the  mountain  by 
moonlight  and  remain  to  see  the  sun  rise  from  that  vantage 
point.  The  railroad  company  has  also  adopted  a  unique 
way  of  taking  advantage  of  the  beauties  of  the  sun  rise.  A 

167 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 

car  is  started  down  the  road  from  the  summit,  just  before 
sun  rise,  by  gravity,  and  the  passengers  have  all  the  pleas- 
ure of  the  beauty  of  the  dawning  hours  and  the  excitement 
of  an  untrammeled  ride.  We  left  the  summit  of  Tamalpais 

at   dusk  and  returned  to  the  , iB 

Hotel  St.  Francis  for  our  even- 
ing dinner.  The  evening  was 
spent  in  ths  pleasures  of  a 
theatre  party,  seeing  the  city 
by  gas  light,  and  an  after- 
theatre  supper.  The  next 
day  was  Sunday  and  the 
morning  was  spent  in  various 
devotional  ways,  as  best  suit- 
each  individual  conscience. 

San  Francisco  has  a  club 
which  is  unique  in  many  ways. 
It  is  the  Bohemian  Club — 
Bohemians  of  the  Bohemians. 

Among  their  customs  is  one  HIGH.CURVE  TRESTLE,  MT. 

rare    delight     and    pleasure, 

which   many    an   outsider   of       TAMALPAIS  RAILWAY. 

social  and  artistic  taste  would  fain  enjoy.  On  the  Saturday 
nearest  the  August  full  moon,  every  year,  the  club,  with  its 
few  invited  guests  repair  to  the  wonderful  and  mysterious 
grove  of  Big  Trees  a  few  miles  from  the  northern  shore  of 
San  Francisco  Bay.  Here  they  remain  for  a  fortnight  en- 
camped, celebrating  their  unique  feast  of  the  Midsummer 
High  Jinks.  The  monarchs  of  the  forest,  with  their  rug- 
ged and  hoary  sides,  stand  close  together  like  brothers  lift- 
ing their  green-crowned  heads  high  up  into  the  skies,  check- 

168 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 

ing,  sifting,  mellowing  the  golden  beams  as  they  fall  earth- 
ward, making  it  always  a  dim  and  religious  twilight  in  the 
grove,  giving  everything  a  romantic  glow.  The  life  there, 
as  the  days  roll  by,  is  full  of  joy,  pleasure,  poetry,  romance 
and  adventure,  in  which  some  say  that  not  infrequently  the 
active  little  god,  Cupid,  plays  an  important  part.  At  the 
ending  comes  the  High  Jinks,  over  which  the  composer, 
poet,  costumer  and  actors  have  toiled  and  struggled  for 
many  months.  Once  this  performance  was  comparatively 
simple.  Now  it  is  usually  a  drama — or  rather,  perhaps,  a 
masque — written  in  verse  by  one  of  the  club  poets  and  set 
to  orchestral  music.  Two  conventionalities  govern  it — the 
enactors  must  be  woodland  folk;  the  theme  must  turn  on 
the  restoration  of  good  fellowship  through  the  death  of  Care. 
Great  nights  they  are,  those  of  the  Jinks.  No  one  pretends 
to  go  to  bed.  After  the  burning  of  the  statue  of  Care, 
everybody  goes  first  to  supper  and  hears  much  untrammel- 
ed  western  oratory.  Then,  in  a  side  canyon,  or  about  the 
camp  fire,  the  club  comedians  present  the  "Low  Jinks," 
usually  a  burlesque  on  the  High.  And  around  the  camp 
fire  the  members  and  guests  keep  going*  all  night,  and  fin- 
ish at  dawn  with  a  dip  in  the  river. 


169 


CHAPTER   XXIII. 

THE   STRAITS    OF    CARNEQUINEZ — THE    LARGEST    FERRY 
BOAT  IN  THE  WORLD — SACRAMENTO — THE  CAPITAL. 

AT  two  o'clock  Sunday  afternoon,  after  a  continual 
round  of  pleasure  and  generous  hosptitality  at  the 
hands  of  the  people  of  San  Francisco,  we  departed  with 
keen  regret  to  Oakland  to  board  our  special  train  and  con- 
tinue our  journey.  At  Oakland  we  found  our  Southern 
Pacific  train  in  spick-and-span  order  awaiting  us.  It  was 
not  long  until  everyone  of  the  party  was  accounted  for,  and 
the  train  started  northward,  and  bound  for  our  next  brief 
stop  at  Sacramento,  the  capital  of  the  State  of  California. 
In  an  hour  or  two  we  reached  the  banks  of  the  great  Sacra- 
mento River,  and  our  further  progress  was  seemingly  barred 
by  a  vast  expanse "  of  deep  and  bridgeless  water.  The 
place  where  our  train  halted  was  called  Porta  Costa;  the  town 
on  the  opposite  side  of  the  water  was  called  Benicia,  and 
the  turbulent  waters  between  are  named  the  Strait  of  Carne- 
quinez.  While  the  train  stood  still  we  investigated  matters 
and  found  there  was  a  way  across  the  water — by  a  floating 
railroad — or,  in  other  words,  by  means  of  a  gigantic  ferry 
boat,  named  Solano.  When  we  saw  the  ferry  boat,  which 
is  said  to  be  the  largest  in  the  world,  we  realized  it  was 
equal  to  the  task  of  moving  us.  It  is  424  feet  long,  121 
feet  wide  and  has  four  railroad  tracks  on  it,  side  by  side, 

170 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST, 


COUNTRY  SCENE  NEAR  SACRAMENTO. 


and  is  run  by  four  engines  of  2,000  horse  power.  The 
boat  will  carry  36  large  sized  freight  cars,  or  48  of  the  old- 
style  small  cars.  Our  train  of  two  locomotives  and  ten  cars 
was  cut  into  three  sections  and  run  out  on  the  boat  with- 
out a  jar.  The  boat  sailed  the  water  like  a  swan  and  car- 
ried us  and  our  cars  easily  and  gracefully  across  the  strait. 
While  crossing  we  left  the  cars  and  climbed  into  the  pilot 
house  and  every  high  spot  of  vantage  on  the  boat. 

Benicia,  the  town  on  the  north  side  of  the  strait,  is 
known  to  fame  as  the  birthplace  of  the  pugilist,  John  C. 
Heenan,  who,  in  1860,  engaged  in  a  prize  fight  with  the 
noted  Englishman,  Tom  Sayers.  They  fought  64  rounds, 
when  Sayers'  arm  was  broken  and  the  fight  ended  in  a 
draw.  After  leaving  Benicia  our  train  entered  a  swampy 
section,  which  is  underlaid  with  quicksand  deposits.  The 

171 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 


STREET  SCENE,  SACRAMENTO. 

railroad  is  built  on  piling,  and  frequently  as  much  as  400 
feet  of  track  disappears  suddenly  into  sink  holes,  compell- 
ing the  railroad  company  to  pour  car  load  after  car  load  of 
stones  into  the  hole,  and  spend  hundreds  of  dollars  repair- 
ing the  damage.  Such  repairs  had  just  been  completed 
before  we  reached  there,  and  we  passed  over  the  road  in 
safety.  Beyond  the  swamps  we  entered  a  fine  level  pas- 
ture land,  on  which  we  saw  thousands  of  fat  sheep  and  sleek 
cattle  grazing.  Still  further  on  we  passed  through  thrifty 
farms  and  extensive  vineyards,  laden  with  rich  and  luscious 
grapes. 

We  reached  Sacramento  shortly  before  sunset  and  were 

172 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 

met  at  the  station  by  the  Board  of  Trade  and  committees 
of  citizens.  The  first  want  was  supper,  and  a  general  rush 
was  made  for  the  restaurants  and  hotels.  After  our  inner 
man  was  satisfied,  the  Board  of  Trade  took  us  in  charge 
and  guided  us  in  special  trolley  cars  over  the  city,  stopping 
to  carefully  inspect  the  famous  Sutler's  Fort,  which  has 
been  thoroughly  repaired  and  restored,  and  is  in  an  excel- 
lent state  of  preservation.  Here  it  was  that  in  the  early 
days  of  the  settlement  of  that  section  of  California  that  the 
traders  and  settlers  fled  for  safety  and  protection  when  the 
hostile  Indians  took  to  the  war-path,  and  sought  their  scalps. 
Later,  after  viewing  the  residential  portion  of  the  city,  we 


THE  CROCKER  ART  GALLERY,  SACRAMENTO. 

173 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 


ONE  OF  SACRAMENTO'S  BEAUTIFUL  PARKS 

visited  the  Crocker  Art  Gallery,  which  is  said  to  be  the 
finest  in  the  State,  and  which  is  full  of  beautiful,  costly  and 
pleasing  paintings  and  statuary.  The  paintings  alone  are 
valued  at  close  to  a  million  dollars. 

At  the  completion  of  the  trolley  ride  our  party  was 
escorted  to  the  stately  and  magnificent  capitol  buildings  and 
tendered  a  handsome  reception  by  the  Governor  and  citi- 
zens. The  capitol  building  is  situated  in  a  most  beautiful 
park,  which  greatly  enhances  the  beauty  of  the  magnificent 
structure,  which  for  imposing  grandeur  of  appearance  is 

174 


COUNTY  COURT  HOUSE  AND  SUITERS  FORT,  SACRAMENTO,  CAL 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 

unexcelled  by  any  similar  building  in  any  of  the  States. 
At  the  reception  each  of  the  ladies  was  presented  with  a 
handsome  boquet  of  beautiful  flowers.  While  at  the  capi- 
tal we  learned  an  interesting  fact — that  John  Bigler,  who 
was  Governor  of  California  from  1851  to  1855,  was  a  na- 
tive of  the  Keystone  State,  having  been  born  at  Carlisle, 
January  8,  1805.  He  moved  to  California,  with  his  family, 
in  1849.  He  was  a  brother  of  William  Bigler,  who  was 
Governor  of  Pennsylvania  at  the  same  time. 

Sacramento  is  a  thriving  city,  with  fine  business  blocks 
of  granite  and  brick,  and  is  modern  and  up-to-date  in  all 
respects.  It  has  a  well-equipped  and  well-managed  electric 
trolley  system,  which  reaches  all  parts  of  the  city,  and  pen- 
etrates into  the  surrounding  country.  The  church  build- 
ings are  numerous  and  of  beautiful  and  imposing  architec- 
ture. The  streets  are  numbered  in  one  direction  and  the 
intersecting  streets  are  named  after  the  letters  of  the  alpha- 
bet. The  city  is  certainly  a  beautiful  one  with  wide,  well 
graded  and  nicely  shaded  thoroughfares. 

Sacramento  is  improving  rapidly  under  the  wise  ad- 
ministration of  the  Board  of  Trade,  whose  campaign  of  pub- 
licity and  promotion  is  ably  managed.  The  city  adminis- 
tration is  alert,  active  and  doing  all  that  it  can  to  second  the 
efforts  of  the  Board  of  Trade.  We  regretted  that  our  time 
was  so  limited  that  we  could  not  see  more  of  the  city  and 
linger  longer  with  its  hospitable  people. 


175 


CHAPTER  XXIV. 

DUNSMUIR — THE  LADY  BARBERS — THE  LORDLY  MT. 
SHASTA — MT  SHASTA  SPRINGS. 

OUR  special  train  left  Sacramento  on  its  northern  run 
shortly  after  midnight.  As  we  sped  along  the  north- 
ern border  of  California  we  crossed  and  re-crossed  the  Sacra- 
mento River  no  less  than  18  times,  as  it  wormed  its  tortu- 
ous course  to  the  sea.  The  next  morning  found  our  train 
at  Dunsmuir,  California,  a  hustling  mountain  town  on  the 
Cascade  Range,  where  we  were  treated  to  a  generous  break- 
fast. The  mountain  air  had  sharpened  our  appetites  and 
we  ate  our  meal  with  keen  relish.  During  our  short  stop 
we  saw  all  the  sights,  and  among  the  curiosities  was  a  bar- 
ber shop  run  by  lady  barbers.  The  mountaineers  seemed 
to  enjoy  having  the  girls  put  their  arms  around  their  heads 
and  pat  their  cheeks  during  the  shaving  operation.  Some 
of  grey-beards  of  our  party  were  so  charmed  with  the  novel 
sight  that  they  ventured  into  the  shop  and  had  one  the 
dizzy  blondes  lather  and  shave  them.  The  girls  were  not 
slow  in  the  matter  of  inviting  the  boys  to  take  a  seat  and 
try  a  shave.  The  only  wonder  is  the  boys  escaped  with 
any  money  at  all.  The  girls  thoroughly  understood  their 
business,  and  were  raking  in  the  coin  at  a  great  rate.  The 
fun  was  cut  short  by  the  locomotive  whistle  warning  us  to 
board  the  train  again.  After  leaving  Dunsmuir  the  train 

176 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 


passed  up  some  very  steep  grades,  around  sharp  curves  and 
over  a  great  horse  shoe   bend,  which  is  a  close  rival  of  the 

P.  R.  R.  horse 
shoe  curve.  The 
puffing,  struggl- 
ing locomotives 
showed  plainly 
what  a  herculean 
task  is  was  to 
haul  our  heavy 
train  up  the  moun- 
tain. The  road 
ran  through  very 
picturesque  scen- 
ery  —  rugged 
mountains  tower- 
ing on  each  side, 
with  a  turbulent 
stream  of  crystal 
clear  water  dash- 
ing and  tumbling 
ing  over  the  mos- 
sy rocks  in  silv- 
ery spray.  Each 
turn  of  the  rail- 
road gave  a  dif- 
ferent setting  to 
the  scene  and 
painted  a  new  and 
beautiful  picture 
for  us  to  feast  our  eyes  upon.  In  a  short  time  our  train 

177 


i 

z 

g 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 


ran  closer  and  deeper  and  deeper  into  the  mountains,  and 
the  pine  and  redwood  trees,  with  their  deep  green  foliage, 
became  more  nu- 
merous, contrast- 
ing beautifully 
with  the  browns, 
greys  and  coppers 
of  the  rocks,  while 
the  sunlight  glint- 
ing and  glancing 
down  over  the 
mountain  peaks 
and  rocks,  with 
deep  blue  of  the 
sky  overhead, 
completed  the 
beautiful  picture. 
A  few  moments 
later  a  turn  in  the 
road  brought  into 
view  the  noble 
Mount  Shasta, 
with  its  royal  head 
crowned  with  a 
diadem  of  ever- 
lasting snow. — 
There,  high  up 
in  the  air,  stood 
the  guardian  peak 
14,442  feet  above 
the  sea,  alone  in  all  its  grandeur,  the  ruler  of  the 

178 


O 


O 


mountains. 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 


The  beauty  and  majesty  of  that  picture  appealed  to  one  and 
all  of  us,  as  we  gazed  long  in  wonder  and  admiration.     It 

was  hard  for  many 
of  the  party  to  be- 
lieve that  the  sum- 
mit of  Mount 
Shasta  was  real- 
ly crowned  with 
snow  those  later 
days  in  June,  but 
so  it  was,  and  the 
w  ffiMrBiHNar--  \  rJi^^^KW  jcv  cold  streams 

that  came  tumbl- 
ing down  the 
mountain  sides 
testified  of  the 
snow,  ice  and 
cold  on  those 
heights  above. 
The  summit  of 
Mount  Shasta  is 
scaled  annually 
by  many  hardy 
tourists,  and  after 
a  strenuous  climb 
of  ten  hours  they 
reach  the  top, 
when  they  are 
amply  repaid  for 
their  labor;  for 
on  that  high  vantage  point  they  become  neighbors  to  the 

179 


o 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 


clouds,  and  there  before  them  stretches  out  a  wonderful 
panorama  embracing  Oregon,  part  of  California  and  Neva- 
da's plains,  while 
far  to  the  west 
may  be  seen  the 
blue  waves  of  the 
Pacific  Ocean. — 
In  a  few  hours  our 
train  rounded  a 
curve  and  we 
came  in  sight  of 
Mount  Shasta 
Springs,  one  of 
California's  most 
famous  and  pop- 
ular summer  re- 
resorts.  It  is 
claimed  there  is 
no  finer  mountain 
resort  in  the 
world.  Its  wat- 
ers possess  rare 
virtues  and  cura- 
tive properties.— 
The  mountain 
side  seems  to  be 
strewn  with 
springs  of  crystal 
water  which 
comes  bubbling 
forth  from  the  rocks  and  dash  down  the  mountain  side, 

180 


8 


in 


W 
H 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 


forming  the  most  beautiful  and  entrancing  cascades  imag- 
inable.    The  main  sources  of  water  are  five  mineral  springs 

at  the  base  of  the 
mountain,  near 
the  railroad  track, 
which  are  united 
p  and  pour  forth  in- 

to    a   very    large 
concrete   basin  — 

*-*. 

waters    are 


> 


monia,  the  fumes 
rising  in  clouds, 
and  when  inhaled 

one  the  sen- 


as 


sation  of  having 
drunk  highly 
charged  soda  wat- 
er.  The  Com- 

pany  in  possess" 

ion  of  the  springs 
have  a  large  bot- 

^^s  p^ant  near 

the   main    spring 

where  they  bottle 

and  keg  the  wat- 
er for  shipment  to 
all  parts  of  the 
world  to  be  used 
a  table  and  health  water.  All  trains  stop  at  the  Shasta 

181 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 

Springs  long  enough  for  the  passengers  to  drink  most  cop- 
iously of  the  waters  and  to  view  the  wonder  of  the  pictur- 
esque scenery.  The  waters  are  very  highly  impregnated 
with  alum,  iron,  soda,  magnesium  and  other  minerals,  and 
are  especially  efficacious  in  the  treatment  of  stomach  and 
kidney  troubles.  Near  the  station  is  a  large  first-class  na- 
tatorium,  where  the  visitors  can  indulge  in  a  plunge  bath  in 
heated  mineral  water.  At  the  summit  of  the  mountain  is  a 
magnificent  level  plateau  adorned  with  finely  kept  lawns  and 
beautiful  flowers.  The  company  has  built  a  commodious  ho- 
tel and  comfortable  cottages  for  summer  visitors.  Here  is 
held  a  profitable  summer  Chautauqua.  The  summit  of  the 
mountain  can  be  reached  either  by  an  incline  railway,  about 
2,000  feet  long,  or  by  zig-zag  paths  scaling  the  mountain 
side  at  easy  grades,  with  frequent  seats  for  the  weary  to 
rest  upon  as  they  ascend.  From  the  plateau  a  very  fine 
view  can  be  had  of  the  noble  proportions  of  the  peak  of 
Mount  Shasta. 

We  left  Mount  Shasta  Springs  much  pleased  and  in- 
vigorated by  our  brief  stop  there.  Leaving  the  Springs  the 
railway  continued  to  climb  the  mountain  and  from  Horn- 
brook  to  Siskiyou,  a  distance  of  19  miles,  we  ascended 
2,258  feet.  As  we  passed  along  this  part  of  the  railroad 
we  saw  immense  and  almost  endless  piles  of  cord  wood 
ranked  along  the  way  for  the  use  of  the  railroad  on  their 
locomotives.  A  reference  to  the  map  revealed  the  fact  that 
we  were  nearing  the  end  of  California  soil,  over  which  we 
had  traveled  almost  a  thousand  miles  from  its  southernmost 
border  to  its  northernmost  line. 


182 


CHAPTER  XXV. 

OUR  FIRST  GLIMPSE  OF  OREGON  —  ASHLAND— 
MEDFORD  —  SALEM. 


after  passing  Cole's  Station  we  saw  by  the 
w/road  side  the  large  sign-board  marking  the  limit  of  the 
Golden  State,  and  the  next  minute  we  were  in  the  land  of 
Oregon;  a  land  flowing  with  milk  and  honey;  a  tend  of 
of  many  rich  promises;  the  land  which  passed  to  the  United 
States  by  the  treaty  of  June  15th,  1846,  with  Great  Britain. 
Our  first  introduction  to  the  hospitable  people  of  Oregon 
was  made  June  26th,  1905,  when  our  train  stopped  at  Ash- 
land. Here  the  people  had  turned  out  in  crowds  to  greet 
us,  and  presented  us  with  numerous  boxes  of  the  finest  and 
largest  cherries  we  ever  saw.  The  fruit  was  so  delicious 
and  was  such  a  treat  that  all  ate  as  much  as  they  could, 
and  sighed  with  regret  that  they  were  unable  to  stow  away 
more.  Here  we  were  given  a  carriage  drive  around  the 
city  and  in  the  evening  took  dinner  at  the  station  hotel, 
Ashland.  It  certainly  was  fine.  Everything  had  been  pre- 
pared to  the  queen's  taste  by  the  Chinese  cooks.  Each  per- 
son had  a  whole  juicy,  fat  spring  chicken  for  himself  and  all 
the  other  fixin's,  and  we  ate  as  though  we  never  expected 
to  eat  again. 

The   Ashland   people   certainly   did  everything  they 
could  to  make  us  leave  at  peace  with  ourselves  and  with  a 

183 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 

good  impression  of  their  growing  town.  A  few  hours  later 
in  the  eveing  our  special  made  a  brief  stop  at  Medford, 
where  we  were  greeted  with  music  and  a  host  of  citizens. 
A  generous  supply  of  beautiful  flowers  were  presented  by 
the  ladies'  reception  committee  to  our  girls.  Our  time  at 
Medford  was  taken  up  with  an  inspection  of  the  local  mu- 
seum, located  near  the  station,  where  there  was  a  magnifi- 
cent collection  of  the  agricultural,  horticultural,  floricultural 
and  mineral  products  of  that  section  of  the  State.  A  view  of 
those  exhibits  and  a  talk  with  some  of  the  prominent  citi- 
zens gave  us  a  very  correct  idea  of  the  possibilities  and  re- 
sources of  that  region. 

After  leaving  Medford,  and  while  our  train  passed 
swiftly  through  the  darkness  of  the  night,  a  party  of  three 
ladies  and  three  gentlemen  (one  of  the  latter  being  a  six- 
footer  weighing  225  pounds)  stood  on  the  platform  of  the 
car  talking.  Suddenly,  out  of  the  darkness,  two  hard-look- 
ing men,  with  villainous  faces,  appeared  on  the  opposite  car 
platform.  Immediately  there  arose  visions  of  a  genuine 
western  holdup.  The  ladies  trembled,  screamed  and  hid 
their  jewels  and  money  in  their  stockings.  The  big  six- 
footer,  who  looked  like  a  prize  fighter,  at  once  started  to  flee 
back  into  the  car  for  safety.  He  said  he  objected  to  being 
shot  on  such  short  notice.  In  the  twinkling  of  an  eye  the 
smallest  man  of  the  party  quickly  stepped  across  to  the  other 
platform  and  demanded  the  intruders'  business.  They  did 
not  display  any  fierceness,  but  replied  that  they  were  railroad- 
ers who  had  gotten  left,  and  they  desired  to  go  as  far  as 
Grant's  Pass  on  the  special.  That  seemed  all  right  and  the 
dauntless  little  editor  stood  guard  until  those  fellows  drop- 
ped off  the  train  when  that  station  was  reached.  But  from 

184 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 

that  time  forth  no  vestibule  doors  were  kept  open  after  night- 
fall, and  no  chances  were  taken  of  a  real  holdup. 

During  the  night  our  train  passed  through  Grant's 
Pass,  one  of  Oregon's  most  prosperous  mining  camps,  and 
the  miners,  not  to  be  outdone  by  the  other  Oregonians,  put 
a  box  of  badges  on  the  train  for  us.  They  were  certainly 
unique.  In  the  centre  of  each  was  a  small  piece  of  real  gold 
quartz. 

The  next  morning  we  stopped  for  a  short  time  at  Al- 
bany, where  we  were  met  by  pretty  young  damsels  with 
baskets  of  luscious  cherries  and  beautiful  flowers.  The 
fruit,  flowers  and  young  ladies  were  fully  appreciated  and 
enjoyed,  and  we  parted  from  them  with  great  reluctance. 
Albany  is  a  rapidly  growing  city  of  about  6,000  thrifty  peo- 
ple. The  city  has  the  best  transportation  facilities  of  any 
city  in  the  State,  except  Portland.  It  is  located  in  the  midst 
of  the  magnificent  Willamette  Valley.  They  have  just 
enough  rain;  just  enough  sunshine;  excellent  water;  no  ex- 
cessive heat,  and  no  excessive  cold,  to  make  a  climate  un- 
excelled anywhere. 

A  run  of  a  few  miles  farther  brought  us  to  Salem,  the 
capital  of  Oregon,  where  we  were  scheduled  for  breakfast. 
After  that  meal  was  over  the  citizens  tendered  us  a  drive 
through  the  city,  after  'which  we  were  received  at  the  State 
capitol  buildings  by  Governor  Chamberlain,  and  made  to 
feel  that  he  was  our  friend,  and  that  the  whole  State  of  Or- 
egon was  ours,  if  we  wanted  it.  The  Governor  impressed 
us  as  a  courteous,  affable  gentleman,  and  as  a  broad-minded 
and  efficient  executive. 

Salem,  being  the  State  Capital,  has  the  Oregon  peni- 
tentiary, asylum  for  the  insane,  reform  school,  deaf  mute 

185 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 

school,  school  for  the  blind  and  all  other  purely  State  insti- 
tutions. The  city  has  many  manufactories  which  turn  out 
large  quantities  of  fine  products.  In  the  surrounding  coun- 
try are  raised  the  finest  prunes,  strawberries  and  other  fruits 
that  can  be  found  in  the  State.  The  city  is  situated  on- the 
beautiful  Willamette  River,  on  which  a  daily  service  of 
steam  boats  is  maintained  between  Salem  and  Portland. 

After  we  had  seen  all  of  Salem's  beauties  and  points  of 
interest,  being  impressed  with  its  solid  worth,  we  resumed 
our  journey,  passing  through  a  fertile  farming  section,  with 
signs  of  prosperity  and  large  crops  in  evidence  on  all  sides, 
and  the  country  becoming  more  thickly  settled  we  realized 
that  we  were  approaching  the  metropolis  of  Oregon. 


186 


CHAPTER   XXVI. 

PORTLAND — THE  ROSE  CITY — THE  LEWIS  AND  CLARK  EX- 
POSITION— SACAJAWEA,  THE  INDIAN  PRINCESS. 

AT  one  o'clock  the  afternoon  of  June  27th  our  special 
steamed  into  the  Union  Station  at  Portland.  The 
bustling  activity  on  all  sides  and  the  crowds  of  people  at 
the  depot  brought  home  to  us  the  fact  that  we  were  at  last 
in  the  city  of  the  famous  Lewis  and  Clark  Exposition.  At 
the  Union  Station  special  trolley  cars  were  awaiting  our 
party,  and  we  were  soon  seated  and  whirled  away  to  our 
headquarters  at  the  American  Inn  on  the  Exposition 
grounds.  We  found  the  American  Inn  to  be  commodious 
and  the  entertainment  of  a  very  high  grade  for  an  exposi- 
tion hotel.  The  hotel  people  treated  us  well,  and  did  all 
they  could  to  make  us  comfortable;  doing  all  they  could  to 
serve  and  please  us,  and  they  succeeded  in  their  efforts. 

The  Lewis  and  Clark  Exposition  pleased  us  all.  It 
was  an  exposition  complete  in  interesting  details,  and  an  ex- 
hibition which  would  have  done  honor  to  many  a  larger  city. 
It  would  be  manifestly  unfair  to  make  a  critical  comparison 
between  it  and  the  mammoth  affairs  which  we  had  seen  at 
Chicago,  Buffalo  and  later  at  St.  Louis.  It  was  not  in 
their  class,  but  it  was  in  a  peculiar  and  interesting  class  of 
its  own.  The  exhibition  was  carefully  planned,  artistically 
placed,  ably  managed,  and  in  all  its  departments  complete 
and  interesting,  reflecting  great  credit  and  honor  on  the 

187 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 


THE  UNION  STATION,   PORTLAND. 

people  who  projected  and  conducted  it,  from  President  H. 
W.  Goode,  down  to  the  lowest  menial  who  contributed  to 
its  success. 

The  Exposition  grounds  were  peculiarly  fortunate  in 
having  a  beauty  of  natural  setting.  The  park  embraced 
406  acres,  and  had  a  beautiful  natural  lake — Guild's  Lake, 
of  220  acres.  On  one  side  were  the  picturesque  waters  of 
the  Willamette  River  and  on  the  other  side  towered  the 
pine-crowned  summits  of  the  Willamette  Mountains.  From 
the  Exposition  Park,  in  the  distance,  can  be  seen  the  snow- 
crowned  peaks  of  Mount  Hood,  11,225  feet  high;  Mount 
Rainer,  14,259  feet;  Mount  St.  Helens,  10,000,  and  Mount 
Adams,  12,470  feet.  There  were  10  large  exhibition  palaces 
on  the  grounds,  erected  in  the  mission  style  of  architecture, 
and  treated  in  a  beautiful  and  harmonious  scheme  of  color. 

188 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 

With  the  large  expanse  of  water,  artistic  bridges,  extensive 
lawns  and  multitudinous  flower  beds,  with  20,000  rose 
bushes  in  full  bloom,  the  grounds  in  daylight  presented  a 
very  pretty  sight,  and  at  night  thousands  of  glowing  elec- 
tric lights  made  the  Exposition  a  glorious  and  brilliant 
panorama  of  sparkling  fountains,  flowers,  trees,  terraces, 
lakes,  lagoons  and  massive  and  picturesuue  buildings.  The 
exhibition  buildings  were  the  forestry  building,  Oriental 
exhibits,  European  exhibits,  agricultural,  liberal  arts,  mines 


A  BIRD'S-EYE  VIEW  OF  PORTLAND. 

and  metallurgy,  fine    arts,  machinery,  electricity  and  trans- 
portation. 

The  entrance  to  the  grounds  was  through  a  stately  and 
ornate  colonade.  The  exhibition  booths  were  crowded 
with  interesting  displays,  and  the  Oriental  departments  were 
unusually  attractive  and  complete.  The  palm  for  the 
largest  and  richest  Oriental  display  was  carried  off  by  the 
wiley  Japanese.  The  United  State  Government  had  a  fine 
large  building,  located  on  an  island  in  the  center  of  the  lake, 
in  which  they  made  a  handsome  display  from  all  the  de- 
partments of  the  General  Government,  there  being  espec- 

189 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 


ially  complete  exhibits  in  the  Army  and  Navy  branches  of 
the  service.  There  was  also  a  fine  exhibit  of  cruisers  and 
battle-ships  anchored  at  the  exhibition  door  in  the  Willa- 
mette River.  The  usual  "Midway"  and  "Pike"  were  pres- 
ent under  the  name  of  "The  Trail."  There  was  gathered 
all  the  side-shows  of  the  Fair.  Some  of  them  were  very 
amusing,  but  others  were  poor.  The 
star  feature  of  "The  Trail"  was  the 
celebrated  gray  mare  "Princess 
Trixie,"  owned  by  W.  H.  Barnes, 
of  Sioux  City,  Iowa,  which  in  its 
tricks  and  feats  of  intelligence  and 
dexterity,  did  almost  everything  but 
talk,  far  exceeding  any 
equine  wonder  we  had  ever 
seen.  There  were  large 
daily  attendances  at  the 
Exposi  - 
tion,  con- 
sidering 
the  far  dis- 
tant loca- 
tion and 
the  popu- 
lation of 


surroun  d  - 
ing   states. 


THE  LIGHTHOUSES  AT  THE    MOUTH  OF  COL- 
UMBIA RIVER. 
In    all  almost   3,000,000   people   visited  the 


Fair.  On  the  evening  of  June  27th  President  Goode,  of 
the  Exposition  Association,  assisted  by  other  members  of 
the  official  body,  and  a  bevy  of  handsome  ladies,  tendered 
our  party  a  most  brilliant  and  thoroughly  enjoyable  recep- 

190 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 


g 


tion    at  the   New   York  State   Building,  on  the   grounds. 

Our   party,  during  our  short    stay,  made  the    most  of   our 

time  in  seeing 
all  the  points  of 
interest  in  the 
Exposition.  The 
Lewis  and  Clark 
Exposition  cele- 
brates the  100th 
anniversary  of 
the  exploration 
of  the  Oregon 
country,  which 
embraced  the 
territory  now  the 
states  of  Oregon, 
Idaho,  Wash- 
ington and  parts 
of  Montana  and 
Wyoming,  made 
by  Captain  Mer- 
ri weather  Lewis 
and  Captain 
William  Clark, 
under  a  commis- 
sion from  Presi- 
dent Thomas 
Jefferson,  in  the 
year  1803.- 
Many  hardships 

and  great  privations  were  endured  by  Lewis  and  Clark  in 

191 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 


LEWIS  &CLARKCCftTENNlM. 
oKTi.AttO~  OREGON  ~  »905 


their  travels,  and  many  perils 
were  encountered  from  wild 
beasts  and  savages.  A  pretty 
romance  was  connected  with 
this  expedition.  The  two 
explorers  were  lost  in  the 
vast  wilderness  and  were 
unable  to  hit  the  trail. — 
Suddenly  there  appeared  be- 
fore them  a  beautiful  and 
graceful  Indian  maiden,  who, 
by  signs,  made  them  under- 
stand that  she  was  their 
friend  and  would  lead  them 
SEAL  OF  THE  EXPOSITION  to  a  place  of  safety.  The 
name  of  this  dusky  maiden,  who  was  a  princess  among  her 
own  people,  was  Sacajawea.  She  ^™B 

conducted  the  explorers  out  of  the  for- 
est to  the  village  of  her  father,  where 
they  were  kindly  received  and  guides 
furnished  them  to  contine  their  explor- 
ations. The  seal  of  the  Exposition 
has  on  its  face  a  medalion  of  the  Indi- 
an princess  Sacajawea  walking  be- 
tween Lewis  and  Clark,  with  her  arms 
around  their  necks,  lovingly  leading 
them  towards  the  realm  of  the  setting  | 
sun.  On  the  Exposition  grounds 
stands  a  heroic  bronze  figure  of  Saca- 
jawea, representing  her  as  a  beauti-  STATUE  OF  MERI- 
ful,  youthful  and  graceful  Indian  WEATHER  LEWIS 

192 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 


maiden.       If     the  I 
trancing     as      her 
it    is    no    wonder 
were  captivated  by 
The       Exposition 
thy  a  visit  and  a 
the  knowledge 
ure    and  entertain  j 
saw  it    were    ade 
tion  for  any  incon 
have  have  been  in  STATU 
had  exhausted  the 


original  was  as  en- 
brcnze  counterfeit 
I  Lewis  and  Clark 
I  the  forest  princess. 
|  was  certainly  wor- 
I  long  journey,  and 
*  gained  and  pleas- 
ment  of  all  who 
quate  compensa- 
veniences  that  may 
2  OF  WILLIAM  curred.  After  we 
CLARK  Exhibition  we 


turned  our  attention    to  the  city  of    Portland  and  the  sur- 
rounding country. 

Portland  has  become  known  to  fame  as  the  "Rose 
City,"  due  to  the  fact  that  roses  are  grown  there  in  the 
F  I  greatest  profus- 

!  ion    and    in    the 

..-  X 

greatest  perfec- 
tion of  bloom  and 
perfume  of  any- 
place in  the  world. 
The  roses  are 
grown  out  doors 
all  the  year 
around,  owing  to 
the  open  and  salubrious  climate,  there  being  no  extremes  of 
heat  or  cold  and  no  snows  and  frosts.  The  Cascade  range 
of  mountains  protects  the  city  on  the  east  from  a  rigorous 
climate,  and  the  air  is  tempered  to  a  wonderful  mildness  by 
the  balmy  breezes  which  sweep  landward  from  the  ocean  on 

193 


GRAND  STAIRWAY  TO  TERRACE  OF  STATES 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 


THE  ENTRANCE  AND  ADMINISTRATION 
BUILDING. 


on  the  west.  Frequent  rains  during  the  winter  months  and 
spring-time  serve  in  keeping  the  rose  bushes  green  and 
their  bloom  pro- 
lific. Portland 
has  a  fine  location 
on  the  Willamette 
River,  a  short  dis- 
tance above  the 
stream's  junction 
with  the  Colum- 
bia River.  Large 
craft  of  all  kinds 
ascend  from  the 
ocean  to  Portland 
wharves,  making 
it  one  of  the  chief  sea  ports  of  the  northwest.  The  United 
States  Government  is  making  improvements  in  the  Colum- 
bia and  Willa- 
mette rivers 
which  will  result 
in  allowing  the 
largest  ocean 
vessels  to  dock  at 
Portland,  and  will 
increase  the  city's 
importance  and 
prestige  as  a  re- 
ceiving and  ship- 
ping port.  The 
city  has  a  population  close  to  150,000  people,  the  majority 
of  whom  are  former  easterners,  who  have  gone  there  ajid 

194 


A  PORTION  OF  CENTENNIAL  PARK. 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 


INTERIOR  OF  THE  FORESTRY  BUILDING 


become  hustlers    and   shouters  for   Portland's  increase  and 
prosperity.     The  city's   location  is    ideal,  having  plenty  of 

lowlands  for  bus- 
ness  locations  and 
beautiful  hills  and 
heights  for  the 
residental  portion 
of  the  city.  The 
city  is  very  pro- 
gressive, has  fine 
business  build- 
ings and  public 
impro  v  e  m  e  n  t  s . 
It  has  an  ample 
water  supply  and 
a  complete  system  of  electric  lighting,  and  trolley  cars  which 
wind  around,  in  and  out  of  the  city,  for  164  miles.  The 
streets  are  well  paved  and  sewered,  and  an  efficient  and 
courteous  police  department  looks-  after  the  public  safety. 
It  has  a  record  of  commercial  and  manufacturing  results  for 
the  year  1903  footing  up  to  $271,000,000,  and  the  bank 
clearings  for  the  -  -.^ 

same  year  am- 
ounted to  $176,- 
000,000.  The 
city  has  ample 
accommodation  s 
for  all  its  guests. 
The  chief  hotel  is  U.  S.  GOVERNMENT  BUILDING, 

the  palatial  Portland,  which   was  erected  at  an  expenditure 
of  $1,000,000,  where  all  the  comforts  of  life  may  be  had  at 

195 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 


a  good   round   price.     Everything  there   is   done   to    the 
queen's  taste;  and  you  can  have  it  all  if   you  only  have  the 


us  was  one 
made  to 
Fort  Van- 
couver and 
the  city 
of  Van- 
c o  u  v  er  , 
Washing  - 
ton,  only  8 
miles  by 
trolley  ac- 
ross the 
Colum  b  i  a 
River  from 
Portland. 
Vancou  v  - 
er  was  first 
establi  s  h  - 
ed  in  1792 
by  Lieu- 
tenant Van 


price.      Another    side    trip 
which  was  much  enjoyed  by 


SCENE  IN  CHINATOWN. 


Engli  sh 

explorer,  and  here  in  the  year  1806  the  Hudson 

Bay   Company,  under  the   noted   McLaughlin. 

established  a  trading  post  for  trading  with  the  Indians  and 

buying    furs.     Later    the  place    came  under    the    control 

of    the   Americans,    and    here   on    May   23d,    1849,   the 

United    States  founded  Columbia   Barracks,  and   the  stars 

196 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 


and  stripes  floated  in  the  breeze  on  the  banks  of  the  Colum- 
bia River.     The  name  of  the  military   post  was,  in  1853, 

again  changed  to 
Fort  Vancouver 
and  has  since  re- 
mained the  same. 
Here  our  famous 
generals,  Grant, 
Sherman  and 
Sheridan,  receiv- 
I  ed  some  of  their 
I  best  early  train- 

•BH9HHHHHHH!^HHH!i^HH  ing.    The  boys 

THE  FORESTRY  BUILDING. 

fort     present     a 

brave  and  inspiring  sight  when  they  turn   out  on  dress  pa- 
rade on  the  espalande,  in  front  of  the  quarters,  at  five  o'clock 
each  afternoon.     Cur   girls  were,  much  impressed   by  the 
sight  of  the  brass  buttons,  but  we  brought  them  away  with- 
out any  seriously 
broken  hearts.— 
Returning         to 
Portland  we 

spent    the   night    ^ 
and  devoted  the  * 

K  «'      *        *        S       f 

next  day  in  fare-    ^yy{3S&itti«wwi«i«»iMBBs 

well  views  of  the    JHUHHHHHII^HII^I 

city  and  partings 

•  i  ORIENTAL   EXHIBIT   BUILDING, 

with  newly-made 

friends.     We  had  expected  to  leave   Portland  early  in  the 
afternoon  of  June  29th  over  the  line  of  the  Oregon  Railroad 

197 


I    I 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 


and  Navigation  Company,  so   that  we  might  view    all  the 
rugged   and  romantic  beauties  of   the   upper  Columbia  by 
daylight,  but  the  •ymm&m&^ 
plans  were  sud- 
denly    changed, 
and   our    special 
did  not  leave  un- 
til late  that  night, 
much  to  our  re- 
gret, and  thus  we 
missed       seeing 
the    grandest    of  EUROPEAN  EXHIBIT  BUILDING, 

the  river  scenery.  While  we  were  wandering  around  Port- 
land we  were  invited  into  the  United  States  Court  House, 
and  there  we  saw  the  venerable  United  States  Senator  John 
I.  Mitchell  being  tried  for  land  frauds.  A  few  days  later 
we  read  in  the  papers  that  his  gray  hairs  and  high  position 
did  not  save  him.  The  jury  had  convicted  him.  It  was  a 

sad  commentary 
on  the  vicissitudes 
of  life.  Here  was 
a  man  of  fine  com- 
manding figure, 
kindly  countenan- 
ce and  courteous 
manner,  who  had 

risen  by  his  own 
AGRICULTURAL  BUILDING.  efforts  irom  hum. 

ble  circumstances  to  be  a  man  of  wealth  and  great  influence, 
only,  in  his  old  days,  to  fall  a  victim  to  unlawful  graft. 
Senator  Mitchell's  example  should  serve  as  a  warning  to 

198 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 


young  men  of  our  day  and  generation  to  pursue  the  straight 
and  narrow  path,  knowing  that  honesty  is  still  the  best  pol- 
ity. An  appeal  was  taken  from  the  verdict  to  the  Supreme 
Court  of  the  United  States  in  the  hope  of  saving  the  offen- 
der from  entering  the  prison  gates,  but  before  that  tribunal 
could  act,  on  December  8th,  1905,  Senator  Mitchell  was 

seized  with  a  hem- 
orrhage of  the 
teeth  while  in  a 
dentist's  office  and 
died  a  few  hours 
later  in  the  Good 
Samaritan  Hospi- 
tal at  Portland. — 
Ten  miles  below 
the  city  of  Port- 

*  land  the  waters  of 

*  the       Willamette 

*  River   enter    into 

ggg; 

I  the  mighty  tide  of 
I  the  Columbia  Riv- 
J»  er  and  rush  a  100 
~  miles  farther  on 
to  join  the  Pacific 
Ocean.  There 
are  many  interes- 
ting side  trips  that  can  be  made  cheaply,  and  in  a  few 
hours  from  Portland. 

Many  of  our  party  took  the  steamer  down  the  Colum- 
bia River  to  Astoria,  one  of  the  oldest  towns  on  the  coast, 
where  we  saw  the  mighty  Columbia  salmon  taken  from  the 

199 


A  CORNER  OF  THE  FORESTRY  BUILDING 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 


river  and  in  a  few  minutes  turned  into  the  choicest  table 
dainties.  Each  editor  took  a  can  of  salmon  away  from  the 
cannery  as  a  souvenir.  The  canneries  are  mammoth  es- 
tablishments, and  are  conducted  on  hy genie  principles, 
every  detail  of  the  prepara-  |~ 
tion  of  the  ~~ 
fish  being 
done  with 
the  most 
perfect 
cl  e  a  n  1  i  - 
ness.  Just 
before  the 
train  left 
Portl  and 
our  party 
appreci  a  - 
ted  the  at- 
ten  tion, 
kindn  ess 
and  cour- 
tesy of  Mr. 
A.C.Jack- 
son, the  SALMON  FISHING,  COLUMBIA  RIVER 

traveling  passenger  agent  of  the  Southern  Pa- 
cific Railroad  Company,  who  had  journeyed  with 
us  from  the  first  hour  of  our  entry  into  California  to  the 
parting  of  the  ways  at  Portland,  sprung  a  surprise  on  that 
gentleman.  Mr.  Jackson  was  at  all  times  attentive  to  the 
wants  of  our  *party,  and  continually  alert  to  point  out  all 
places  of  interest  and  beauty  along  the  road,  thus  gaining 

200 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 

the  admiration  and  good  will  of  us  all.  The  remembrance 
of  our  party  to  the  genial  agent  took  the  form  of  a  beauti- 
fully engraved  silver  service.  The  gift  was  a  total  surprise 
to  Mr.  Jackson,  and  he  made  a  brief  speech  expressive  of 
his  heartfelt  appreciation  of  the  generosity  and  admiration 
of  our  party  toward  him.  Then  we  parted  with  mutual 
good  wishes  and  adieux. 


201 


CHAPTER  XXVII. 

THE  LA  GRANDE  VALLEY — HOT  LAKE — BAKER  CITY — BOY 
THROWS  GOLD  AT  A  DEER. 

THE  night  of  June  29th  passed  away  with  the  clouds 
and  the  morning  of  June  30th  dawned  brightly,  with 
a  fresh  and  exhilerating  air.  During  the  night  we  had 
skirted  the  Columbia  River  and  rushed  past  the  dashing 
Dalles  and  their  romantic  •  scenery.  The  Columbia  is  a 
mighty  river,  and  flows  over  450  miles  before  it  loses  itself 
in  the  Pacific.  The  morning  found  us  moving  swiftly 
through  one  of  the  most  beautiful  and  fertile  valleys  east  of 
the  Cascade  Mountains — the  La  Grande  Valle^.  It  is 
truly  a  "grande"  valley,  as  its  name  indicates.  On  all 
sides  were  the  evident  signs  of  its  richness  and  fertility  in 
the  vast  stretches  of  wheat  fields,  pastures  and  orchards  of 
rich  and  luscious  fruits.  The  valley  embraces  300,000 
acres,  and  all  kinds  of  fruit  are  raised  there  with  the  great- 
est success,  from  the  finest  cherries  to  the  largest  apples. 
Thousands  of  sheep  feed  in  the  green  pastures  and  gambol 
along  the  babbling  brooks,  furnishing  the  finest  lamb  and 
mutton  chops  that  go  upon  the  epicures'  table.  Even  the 
oldest  mutton  retains  its  tender  juiciness  when  it  graces  the 
menu  of  the  stylish  restaurant.  At  La  Grande  we  ate  our 
breakfast,  and  a  most  generous  and  hearty  breakfast  it  was, 
for  it  was  late  in  the  morning,  like  the  French  de  juner. 
On  'our  way  north  we  had  seen  the  rugged  and  stern  moun- 

202 


tt 


txl 


o 

o 

1 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 


tain  scenery  of  Oregon,  and  now,  as  we  moved  southward, 
the  scenery  had  changed  and  the  valley  regions  were  to  be 
traversed  and  inspected  until  we  leave  the  State.  No  mat- 
ter what  kind  of  scenery  the  tourist  or  traveler  may  desire 
Oregon  has 
it.  The 
Cascade 
Mountains 
divide  the 
State  into 
two  grand 
divis  ions. 
On  one  side 
are  the  riv- 
ers, the  Pa- 
cific Ocean,  UMATILLA  INDIAN 
the  snow  VILLAGE 

capped  mountain  peaks,  water  falls, 
lakes,  bays,  foot  hills,  lava  beds  and 
caves,  while  on  the  other  side  are 

the  green,  fertile  and  undulating  valleys  burdened  with 
crops  and  teeming  with  pastoral  life,  while  the  brooks  and 
rivulets,  singing  their  songs  of  gladness,  run  hither  and 
thither  over  the  valleys  like  streams  of  glistening  silver. 
The  far  distant  rugged  mountains,  with  their  dark  green  fir 
covered  sides  and  snow  capped  summits  form  a  beautiful 
frame  for  this  entrancing  picture,  the  pure,  clear  air  bringing 
each  beauty  sp0t  out  with  vivid  distinctness  and  carrying  the 
vision  for  a  100  miles  away.  In  these  rich  valleys  are 
grown  the  largest  and  sweetest  strawberries,  blackberries 
and  raspberries  in  the  greatest  profusion.  As  we  passed 

203 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 

swiftly  along  we  saw  acre  upon  acre  of  towering  dark  green 
vines  upon  wire  trellises.  Upon  inquiry  we  learned  these 
were  some  of  Oregon's  famous  hop  fields.  The  sight  of 
the  hop  vines  was  marvelous,  and  we  never  dreampt  they 
were  raised  upon  such  an  enormous  scale.  We  were  told 
that  Oregon  is  the  greatest  hop  producing  State  in  the 
Union,  if  not  in  the  world.  We  were  also  informed  that 
the  annual  production  is  about  30,000  pounds  and  the  crop 
is  worth  about  $6,000,000.  There  being  so  many  hops 
raised  in  that  State,  there  is  no  excuse  for  the  brewers  not 
making  pure  malt  and  hop  beer.  The  National  Govern- 
ment should  do  as  the  foreign  governments  do — look  into 
this  question,  and  see  that  our  drinks  are  of  a  standard  of 
purity,  as  well  as  the  foods  we  eat. 

Oregon  is  also  a  large  grower  of  wheat,  barley  and 
grains,  flax  and  flax  seed  and  sugar  beets.  The  exports  of 
flour  and  bread  stuffs  from  the  State  annually  amount  to 
about  $10,000,000.  Her  production  of  lumber  amounts  to 
the  gross  sum  of  $35,000,0000  each  year,  and  she  has  bil- 
lions of  feet  of  timber  still  standing.  The  Oregon  red  ced- 
ar shingles  has  been  a  familiar  sight  on  the  eastern  markets 
for  many  years  past. 

The  United  States  Government  has  commened  to  look 
to  Oregon,  and  is  carrying  out  the  motto,  "Save  the  forests 
and  store  the  floods."  There  are  already  many  very  large 
government  forest  reservations  in  Oregon,  embracing  several 
million  acres.  The  State  has  untold  mineral  wealth,  which 
has  attracted  but  little  attention  as  yet,  and  has  been  but 
poorly  developed.  It  is  a  State  of  vast  resources.  The  fol- 
lowing data  of  Oregon  is  interesting:  Land  area  in  square 
miles,  94,560.  Exploring  expedition  proposed  by  President 

204 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 


CASTLE  ROCK  ON  COLUMBIA  RIVER. 

Jefferson,  December  4,  1783.  Columbia  River  discovered, 
May  11,  1792.  Explored  by  Lewis  and  Clark,  1805-06. 
Astoria  founded,  April  12,  1811.  Organized  as  a  territory, 
August  14,  1848.  Admitted  as  a  state,  February  14, 1859. 
The  name  Oregon  first  appeared  in  print  in  Jonathan  Car- 
ver's "Travels  Through  the  Interior  Parts  of  North  Amer- 
ica," which  was  published  in  London  in  1778.  The  origin 
of  the  name  is  one  of  the  enigmas  of  history.  Carver  pro- 
fessed to  have  received  it  from  the  Indians  in  the  country  of 
th  Upper  Mississippi,  where  he  had  pushed  his  explorations. 
The  Indians,  he  says,  told  him  of  the  River  Oregon  flowing 
to  the  Western  Ocean,  but  how  much  of  the  tale  was  his 
own  invention  it  is  impossible  to  say.  Jefferson  used  the 

205 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 

word  in  his  instructions  to  Lewis  and  Clark,  showing  it  was 
beginning  to  have  a  vogue  before  "Thanatopsis"  was  writ- 
ten, but  it  was  Bryant's  solemn  poem,  with  its  sonorus 
verse,  which  appeared  in  the  year  1817,  that  famailiarized 
the  word  Oregon,  and  soon  put  it  on  every  tongue.  Vari- 
ous other  accounts  of  the  Lewis  and  Clark  expedition  had 


SUNSET  ON  THE  COLUMBIA 
RIVER. 

appeared  both   in  the   United  States 

and  Europe  before  the  appearance  of 

"Thanatopsis,"    but    undoubtedly    it 

was  Bryant's  expression,  "Where  Rolls  the  Oregon,"  that 

first  spread  the  name  before  the  world. 

Oregon  is  the  sportsman's  paradise.  The  rivers  and 
lakes  teem  with  the  gamey  trout,  pickerel,  bass  and  wall- 
eyed pike,  while  the  valleys  and  foot  hills  abound  with 
grouse,  quail,  golden  Chinese  pheasants  and  other  wild 
birds;  ducks  and  geese  flock  to  the  lakes  and  afford  rare  sport. 
In  the  mountains  are  found  black,  brown  and  grizzly  bears, 
the  mountain  lion  and  deer  and  antelope.  The  mild  cli- 

206 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 

mate,  with  a  mean  annual  temperature  of  51  degrees  above 
zero,  permits  camp  life,  with  the  greatest  comfort  and  pleas- 
ure, all  the  year  around.  The  State  still  has  plenty  of 
public  lands  for  settlers,  there  being  now  no  less  than  18,- 
374,732  acres  open  for  homestead  settlers.  The  country  is 
being  rapidly  filled  up  with  the  best  class  of  settlers  from 
the  middle  west,  and  they  do  not  seem  to  have  any  of  the 
low  grade  immigrants  from  Europe  so  common  in  Pennsyl- 
vania, especially  around  coal  mines,  stone  quarries  and  rail- 
road operations.  The  railroad  track  work  in  Oregon  is 
done  principally  by  Chinese  and  Japanese  of  the  coolie 
class,  with  white  men  for  bosses.  That  seems  to  be  the 


CELILO  FALLS,  COLUMBIA  RIVER. 

most  satisfactory  kind  of  labor  they  can  secure  for  railroad 
construction  there,  as  the  white  laborer  has  higher  aspira- 
tions, and  refuses  to  engage  in  that  kind  of  work,  save  only 
in  rare  instances. 

We  were  surprised  to  find  the  sentiment  of  Oregon 
quite  tolerant  of  the  Chinese,  but  this  condition  of  the  pub- 
lic mind  is  accounted  for  by  the  fact  that  they  must  have 
them  to  do  the  drudgery  work  on  the  railroads. 

On  our  way  south  from  La  Grande  we  passed  the 
famous  Hot  Lake.  There  are  the  largest  hot  springs 
known,  and  are  the  most  remarkable  fountains  on  earth. 

207 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 

The  lake  is  313  miles  east  of  Portland,  on  the  main  line  of 
the  Oregon  Railroad  and  Navigation  Company.  The  lake 
embraces  an  area  of  eight  acres,  formed  by  the  crater  of  an 
extinct  volcano,  supplied  by  a  large  geyser  of  volcanic  heated 
water.  The  springs  flow  about  3,000,000  gallons  of  water 
a  day,  and  the  temperature  is  198  degrees.  The  waters 
are  an  absolute  specific  for  all  forms  of  rheumatism,  rheu- 
matic gout,  stomach  and  liver  troubles,  nervous  ailments, 
blood  and  skin  diseases.  There  are  at  Hot  Lake  the  most 
modern  hotel,  bath  and  hospital  accommodations  for  the 
comfort  and  treatment  of  patients  at  the  springs. 

Our  next  stop  was  made  at  Baker  City,  the  county 
seat  of  Baker  County,  and  the  metropolis  and  center  of  the 
mining  district  of  Eastern  Oregon.  Here  we  were  well 
treated  and  shown  the  sights  of  the  town.  Baker  City  is  a 
town  of  about  10,000  people  and  has  a  commanding  posi- 
tion in  the  valley,  standing  at  an  elevation  of  3,440  feet 
above  the  sea  level.  The  climate  is  most  invigorating. 
The  town  is  surrounded  with  rich  agricultural  lands,  under- 
laid with  an  untold  wealth  of  minerals  and  precious  metals. 
The  mining  district  surrounding  Baker  City  embraces  about 
15,000  square  miles,  and  is  larger  than  the  combined  areas 
of  the  states  of  Massachusetts,  Rhode  Island  and  Connecti- 
cut. There  are  both  quartz  and  placer  mines  in  the  dis- 
trict, and  all  are  worked  on  a  paying  basis,  although  the 
mining  industry  is  in  its  infancy,  and  has  attracted  but  lit- 
tle attention  from  the  outside  world.  In  1904  the  gold  out- 
put of  the  State  of  Oregon  amounted  to  $4,000,000,  and  a 
large  portion  of  this  come  from  the  Baker  field.  Placer 
mining  is  what  is  known  as  pocket  mining.  That  is,  the 
free  gold  has  been  washed  down  from  some  cliff  or  ledge 

208 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 


and  collects  in  a  hole,  more  commonly  called  a  pocket, 
where  it  is  found  by  some  fortunate  prospector.  At  Baker 
City  we  were  told  a  mining  story  that  made  us  feel  like 

remaining  a  few  weeks 
and  to  flirt  with  the  fickle 
goddess  of  fortune.  — 
Three  weeks  before  our 
arrival  an  18-year-old 
Baker  City  boy  was  out 
in  the  mountain  with  his 
gun  and  dog  hunting 
deer.  He  had  shot  and 
wounded  a  large  buck, 

^  ^dea^Ored  *>  make 
his  dog  chase  the  ani- 


CITY HALL,  BAKER  CITY. 


mal,  but  without  success.     In  a  fit  of  passion  the  boy  reach- 

ed down  to  pick  up  a  stone   to  throw    at  his    stubborn  dog, 

but  just  as  he  was  about  to  _ 

hurl  the  supposed  stone  he 

noticed   it   had    a    peculiar 

smooth  smooth  feeling  which 

caused  him  to  pause  and  ex- 

amine it  more  closely,  when 

he  discovered  he  held  in  his 

hand  a  nugget  of  pure  gold. 

Of  course  it  was  not  thrown. 

The  gust  of  passion  was  suc- 

ceeded  by  a  lust  for  gold, 

and  the  boy  abandoned  the 

chase  and  turned  his  atten- 

tion  to  seeking  the  pocket 


LOGGING  TRAIN  NEAR  BAKER 
CITY. 


209 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 


A  QUARTZ  GOLD  MINE  NEAR  BAKER  CITY. 

from  which  his  nugget  had  rolled.  He  succeeded  in  locat- 
ing it  in  a  short  time,  and  it  proved  to  be  a  rich  one.  He 
carefully  concealed  all  traces  of  his  discovery,  and  returning 
home  informed  his  brother  of  his  rich  find.  The  next  day 
the  two  returned  to  the  spot  and  staked  off  claims.  Inside 
of  two  weeks  they  dug  out  $40,000  worth  of  pure  gold,  and 
later  sold  their  claims  to  a  company  of  capitalists  for  $100,- 
000.  A  fortune  of  $140,000  in  a  period  of  three  weeks  is 
not  such  a  bad  record  of  sudden  wealth.  Such  good  for- 
tune comes  to  few.  Many  prospectors  work  hard  for  months 
and  find  only  enough  to  make  fair  wages. 

There  is  plenty  of  wealth  hidden  in  those  mountains 
and  foot  hills  of  Oregon  waiting  to  enrich  the  persevering 
and  lucky  prospector.  Nearly  all  our  editors  would  have 

210 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 


A  PLACER  GOLD  MINE  NEAR  BAKER  CITY. 

been  glad  to  have  grub  staked  a  miner  or  two  in  that  sec- 
tion had  they  not  been  short  of  funds.  The  gold  fever  cer- 
tainly attacked  a  few  of  the  boys,  and  they  departed  most 
reluctantly  from  Baker  City.  Even  the  beautiful  carnations 
and  luscious  cherries  furnished  us  by  the  amiable  ladies  of 
Baker  City  did  not  banish  the  thoughts  of  gold  from  their 
minds.  Our  next  stop,  after  leaving  Baker  City,  was  Hunt- 
ington,  404  miles  east  of  Portland.  It  was  interesting  from 
the  fact  that  there  ends  the  line  of  the  Oregon  Navigation 
and  Railroad  Company,  and  commences  the  Oregon  Short 
Line  Railroad,  a  branch  of  the  Union  Pacific  Railroad.  It 
is  destined  to  become  quite  a  railroad  town,  and  it  has  the 
noise  and  bustle  of  a  railroad  center.  In  addition  to  the 
railroad  communication,  the  town  carries  on  a  heavy  stage 
and  wagon  trade  with  -  several  adjoining  counties  and  also 
the  mining  districts,  which  are  still  beyond  the  reach  of  the 

211 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 


THE  ROOSTER  ROCK,  COLUMBIA  RIVER. 

Iron  horse.  The  town  is  located  in  a  low  basin  surrounded 
by  high  and  rugged  mountains,  but  beyond  the  mountains 
are  large  and  fertile  valleys  which  help  to  support  the  town 
and  whose  people  make  Huntington  their  trading  depot. 
The  town  has  good  schools,  first-class  hotels  and  enterpris- 
ing business  houses  in  all  lines  of  trade. 

At  Huntington  a  new  crew  and  a  new  engine  took  our 
train,  and  we  gave  a  new  hitch  to  our  watches,  setting  them 
one  hour  ahead,  as  we  were  passing  another  time  meridian. 
There  are,  according  scientific  method,  five  time  meridians 
in  the  United  States,  called  Atlantic  time,  eastern  time,  cen- 
tral time,  mountain  time  and  Pacific  time.  As  the  traveler 
starts  west  from  the  Atlantic  Ocean  he  turns  his  watch  back 
one  hour  as  he  passes  each  meridian,  and  as  he  comes  east- 
ward he  sets  his  watch  forward  one  hour  as  he  crosses  each 
of  these  time  lines.  Thus  when  it  is  noon  in  Philadelphia 
it  is  only  nine  o'clock  the  same  day  in  San  Francisco,  and 

212 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 

in  London,  England,  it  is  five  o'clock  in  the  afternoon  of 
yesterday. 


THE  MULTNOMAH  FALLS,  1,024  FEET  HIGH. 
213 


CHAPTER  XXVHI. 

IDAHO  —  THE  SNAKE  RIVER  CANYON  —  THE  BEAR 
RIVER  IRRIGATION. 


after  leaving  Huntington  our  train  crossed 
Snake  River,  and  we  were  in  another  State- 
Idaho.  The  Snake  River  rises  in  the  Yellowstone  National 
Park,  in  the  upper  corner  of  Nevada,  flowing  westward 
from  the  boundry  line  of  the  states  of  Idaho  and  Oregon, 
and  then  is  finally  lost  in  the  Columbia  River.  The  Snake 
River  well  deserves  its  name,  for  it  is  extremely  serpentine 
in  its  windings,  and  we  crossed  it  many  times  before  we 
lost  it.  Our  train,  therefore,  rushed  in  and  out  of  Oregon 
a  number  of  times  before  we  came  to  a  stop  at  Nampa, 
Idaho,  for  our  supper.  Nampa,  with  its  quarter  million 
dollar  hotel  and  numerous  other  fine  public  houses  and  good 
restaurants,  furnished  a  very  fine  evening  dinner,  which  we 
all  enjoyed,  as  we  had  not  had  anything  to  eat  since  our 
10  o'clock  breakfast  at  La  Grande.  As  we  rested  a  few 
hours  in  the  cool  of  the  evening  the  Nampa  Spielers  took 
us  in  charge,  and  they  outdid  the  Edison  graphophone  in 
the  beautiful  songs  they  sang  us  of  the  present  and  future 
greatness  of  their  city  and  surrounding  country.  The  beau- 
ty about  their  stories  is  the  fact  that  there  is  much  truth  'in 
what  they  tell  you,  and  each  fellow  thoroughly  believes  his 
town  is  just  the  greatest  place  on  God's  green  earth,  and  he 

214 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 

hustles  for  it  all  he  knows  how.  Even  now  railroads  from 
Nampa  run  west  to  Portland,  east  to  Salt  Lake,  north  to 
Emmet,  south  to  Murphy  and  northeast  to  Boise,  the  capi- 
tal of  Idaho.  The  country  around  about  the  city  is  to  be 
benefitted  by  the  national  system  of  irrigation,  and  the  United 
States  Government  has  already  made  arrangements  to  build 
in  that  vicinity  a  mammoth  reservoir  to  cover  10,000  acres 
of  land.  As  a  result  of  this  gigantic  plant  over  400,000 
acres  of  the  Boise  Valley  will  be  brought  under  cultivation, 
and  will  be  made  to  blossom  and  bloom  like  a  rose.  Idaho, 
with  its  84,200  square  miles  of  land  and  510  square  miles 
of  water,  presents  limitless  opportunities  for  the  capitalist, 
settler,  miner  and  farmer,  for  the  State  has  but  a  small  pop- 
ulation, and  the  development  of  its  vast  resources  of  all 
kinds  is  in  its  infancy.  Fortunes  there  await  the  hardy, 
venturesome  and  strong,  who  are  willing  to  spend  their 
•  efforts  in  subduing  the  rugged  sides  of  nature. 

During  the  night  our  train  traversed  almost  the  entire 
width  of  the  State,  and  on  the  morning  of  July  1st  we 
stopped  at  Pocatello,  in  the  southwestern  section  of  Idaho 
to  have  a  dining  car  attached  to  our  train.  The  one  diner 
was  not  sufficient  to  feed  our  party  very  rapidly,  and  it  was 
late  when  the  last  of  us  had  our  breakfast  that  morning. 
But  the  delay  was  taken  philosophically  by  the  most  of  us, 
and  the  kickers  kicked  in  vain  and  had  to  wait  their  turns. 
Going  south  from  Pocatello,  Oregon,  to  Ogden,  Utah,  we 
passed  through  some  very  rugged  and  curious  scenery  for 
many  miles  along  the  Snake  River.  We  saw  gigantic 
walls  of  stone  placed  there  by  nature  to  confine  the  river. 
In  many  places  these  rocky  cliffs,  with  layer  after  layer  of 
stone  piled,  wall  fashion,  one  above  the  other,  looking  not 

215 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 

unlike  the  pictures  one  sees  in  prints  of  the  great  Chinese 
wall,  which  for  thousands  of  years  encircled  the  great  Celes- 
tial empire.  As  we  rushed  along  we  could  see  numerous 
holes  the  gold  miners  had  dug  all  along  the  mountain  sides 
with  more  or  less  success.  Crossing  the  mountain  divide 
we  reached  the  canyon  of  the  Bear  River,  and  followed  the 
river  for  many  miles  through  very  romantic  mountain  scen- 
ery. After  leaving  Franklin  we  crossed  the  Idaho  State 
line  into  the  empire  of  the  Mormon  State — Utah.  Passing 
down  through  the  Bear  River  canyon  we  saw  exemplified 
the  genius  of  man  in  harnessing  the  powers  of  nature  to  do 
his  work.  A  large  dam  of  solid  masonry  had  been  flung 
across  the  Bear  River,  high  up  in  the  mountain,  collecting 
millions  upon  millions  of  gallons  of  water  for  irrigation  and 
commercial  purposes.  From  the  dam,  on  both  sides  of  the 
canyon,  large  canals  led  the  water  to  the  low  lands  and 
valleys  below,  where  it  was  utilized  to  generate  electricity 
for  power  and  light,  and  also  to  irrigate  the  arid  valleys,  so 
that  they  would  blossom  and  bear  the  greatest  abundance 
of  fruit.  The  canals  are  marvels  of  engineering  skill,  being 
cut  through  the  solid  rocks  of  the  cliffs  bordering  the  canyon, 
and  where  the  river  took  sudden  turns  tunnels  were  bored 
through  the  rocky  barrier  to  conduct  the  water  on  its  down- 
ward course.  The  expenditure  of  time  and  money  to  con- 
struct these  canals  was  enormous,  but  it  was  fully  justified, 
for  by  means  of  the  water  so  imprisoned  and  conducted  hith- 
er and  thither  at  the  will  of  man,  thousands  of  acres  of  Utah 
desertr  were  converted  into  fertile  and  productive  farms.  The 
only  thing  needed  to  make  those  deserts  produce  the  best 
grain,  juiciest  fruit  and  prettiest  flowers  was  water,  and  it 
has  been  supplied  by  the  ingenuity  and  skill  of  man. 

216 


CHAPTER   XXIX. 

UTAH — THE   MORMON  STATE — ITS   EXPLORATIONS 
AND  HISTORY. 

TO-DAY  Utah,  with  her  82,190  square  miles  of  land 
and  2,780  square  miles  of  water,  produces  magnifi- 
cent crops  of  wheat,  corn,  oats,  mammoth  potatoes  and 
acres  of  beautiful  flowers,  while  from  her  mountains  come 
millions  of  dollars  annually  in  gold,  silver  and  copper. 

The  first  explorations  of  Utah  were  made  by  the 
Spaniards  in  1540.  The  first  settlements  were  made  by 
the  Mormons  under  the  famous  Brigham  Young,  at  Salt 
Lake,  in  1847.  The  Mexican  government  claimed  the 
territory  by  right  of  Spanish  exploration,  but  in  1848  Mex- 
ico ceded  Utah  to  the  United  States.  September  9th,  1850, 
Congress  passed  an  act  creating  the  territory  of  Utah.  In 
the  year  1896  Congress  passed  an  act  admitting  Utah  as  a 
state  to  the  Union. 

The  first  stop  we  made  in  Utah  was  at  Ogden,  the 
railroad  center  of  the  State,  and  the  largest  and  most  influ- 
ential city  in  the  State  outside  of  the  famous  Salt  Lake  City. 
Ogden  is  a  hustling  city  of  about  25,000  people,  with  a 
large  percentage  of  "Gentiles,"  as  the  non-Mormons  are 
called.  Among  the  prominent  railroads  centering  there  are 
the  Union  Pacific,  the  Oregon  Short  Line,  the  Denver  and 
Rio  Grande  Railway  and  the  Salt  Lake  and  Southern. 

217 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 

As  our  train  was  much  behind  time  we  did  not  have 
time  to  see  the  whole  of  Ogden,  our  special  waiting  only 
long  enough  for  lunch  and  a  change  of  crew  and  engines. 
At  Ogden  our  train  was  switched  onto  the  tracks  of  the 
Denver  and  Rio  Grande  Railroad,  which  was  to  take  us  all 
the  way  to  Denver,  Colorado. 

It  is  interesting  to  note  that  the  settlement  of  Utah  by 
the  Mormons,  under  Brigham  Young,  was  exceedingly 
romantic  and  picturesque.  Brigham  was  one  of  the  leaders 
of  the  Mormon  sect  at  Nalvoo,  Illinois.  One  day  in  Feb- 
ruary, 1846,  he  informed  his  followers  that  he  had  had  a 
vision,  in  which  the  Lord  appeared  to  him,  directing  him  to 
lead  his  people  forth  to  the  westward,  to  the  land  of  promise; 
that  they  should  journey  westward  until  they  should  come  to 
an  exceeding  high  mountain,  upon  which  was  traced  the 
sign  of  the  Cross,  and  there  they  should  stop,  dwell  and 
become  a  mighty  nation,  The  Mormons  arose,  girded  up 
their  loins,  gathered  their  household  goods,  cattle  and  horses 
in  one  immense  caravan,  consisting  of  cows,  sheep  and 
horses,  and  great  covered  wagons  called  prairie  schooners, 
drawn  by  horses  and  oxen;  with  men,  women  and  children, 
started  on  their  long,  wearisome  journey,  with  full  reliance 
and  confidence  in  their  leader  and  guide.  They  journeyed 
by  day  and  rested  at  right.  They  traveled  over  plains, 
crossed  mighty  rivers,  passed  along  valleys  and  through 
rugged  mountain  fastnesses,  penetrated  unexplored  wilder- 
nesses, harrassed  at  every  step  by  cruel,  bloodthirsty  savages. 
Thus  journeyed  they  for  days,  weeks  and  months,  foot  sore 
and  weary,  continually  attacked  by  hostile  Indians;  with 
undaunted  courage  and  undisturbed  confidence  in  their 
leader,  ever  westward  they  went,  until  they  had  left  behind 

218 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 

them  3,000  weary  miles.  The  dawn  of  the  morning  of 
July  24th,  1847,  revealed  to  them  the  white,  glistening  and 
mighty  Cross  fastened  high  on  the  rugged  mountain  side 
before  them  as  they  stood  on  the  bank  of  a  river,  and  they 
knew  their  journey  was  done. 

The  river  they  called  the  River  Jordan,  and  the  coun- 
try the  Land  of  Promise.  The  land  was  then  an  uninvit- 
ing desert,  but  it  was  theirs  by  right  of  settlement,  and,  as 
they  believed,  chosen  for  them  by  the  Lord,  for  was  not  the 
sign  of  the  glorious  Cross  on  the  mountain,  just  as  had  been 
foretold?  Under  adverse  conditions  and  circumstances, 
deemed  almost  insurmountable,  they  have  converted  the 
barren  wastes  into  fertile  fields  of  great  value  and  useful- 
ness. They  caused  the  deserts  to  blush  and  bloom  like  a 
rose.  To-day  the  people  of  Utah  are  most  prosperous, 
happy  and  contented.  The  Mormons  have  achieved  mar- 
vels in  social,  commercial  and  material  development  of  that 
country,  and  to-day  they  produce  wonderful  crops,  while 
their  orchards  grow  as  fine  fruits  as  are  seen  in  the  world, 
and  their  mines  scientifically  developed  pour  forth  millions 
of  dollars  annually  to  the  wealth  of  the  world.  On  every 
side  are  seen  signs  of  the  energy,  thrift  and  perseverance 
of  the  Mormons. 

A  short  run  from  Ogden  brought  us  to  Salt  Lake  City, 
the  Zion  city  of  the  Mormons.  Our  train  stopped  and  we 
found  ourselves  in  one  of  the  most  interesting  and  handsome 
cities  of  America.  It  is  the  headquarters  of  the  sect  who 
are  pleased  to  call  themselves  the  Church  of  Jesus  Christ  of 
Latter  Day  Saints,  and  is  the  capital  of  Utah,  the  largest, 
most  populous,  wealthiest  and  most  important  city  in  the 
State.  The  city  is  situated  on  the  banks  of  the  River  Jor- 

219 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 

dan  12  miles  distant  from  the  southwest  shore  of  the  great 
Salt  Lake,  at  an  altitude  of  4,200  feet  above  sea  level.  It 
nestles  at  the  very  base  of  the  Wasatch  Mountains,  which 
rear  their  lofty  snow-capped  peaks  8,000  feet  above,  dis- 
playing their  varied  beauties  of  canyon,  crag,  pass  and  cone, 
and  as  they  stretch  far  southward,  bounding  for  over  200 
miles  a  grand  valley,  the  paradise  oi  the  farmer,  horticural- 
ist  and  fruit  grower.  To  the  west  lies  the  silent,  mysteri- 
ous Great  Salt  Lake,  with  its  health-giving  miniature  sea 
breezes  and  exceptional  bathing  facilities. 


220 


CHAPTER  XXX. 

SALT  LAKE  CITY — THE  GREAT  SALT   LAKE — THE  TAB- 
ERNACLE—THE   TEMPLE — THE    MORMONS. 

THE  area  of  Salt  Lake  City  is  about  four  miles  from 
east  to  west  and  three  miles  from  north  to  south.  Its 
thoroughfares  are  traversed  by  100  miles  of  street  railways. 
The  streets  cross  each  other  at  right  angles,  are  133  feet 
wide  (including  sidewalks  20  feet  wide)  and  are  lined  on 
either  side  by  a  uniform  succession  of  beautiful  shade  trees, 
and  washed  at  either  curb  by  cold  and  sparkling  streams  of 
water  which  flow  down  from  the  distant  mountain  canyons, 
giving  the  whole  city  the  appearance  of  a  huge  grove, 
whose  luxuriant  foliage  covers  an  attractive  collection  of 
business  marts,  rich  men's  palaces,  cottages  and  villas,  with 
here  and  there  a  steeple,  dome  or  tower  standing  out  boldly 
from  the  mass  of  trees.  Each  street  presents  the  appear- 
ance of  a  long  avenue  of  poplar,  locust,  box  alder,  catalpa 
and  other  ornamental  shade  trees.  The  streams  of  pure, 
clear  water  running  along  the  streets  present  a  novel  sight 
and  temper  the  heat  of  the  hottest  day  in  summer.  The 
houses  of  the  city  have  gradually  crept  out  to  the  foot  of 
the  Wasatch  Mountains.  The  climate  is  agreeable  and 
salubrious,  the  air  dry,  clear  and  bracing,  not  unlike  that  of 
Northwestern  Texas  and  New  Mexico.  The  mean  summer 
temperature  is  about  74  degrees  above  zero,  and  the  winter 

221 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 

temperature    about   32  degrees  above,  although  there  are 
days  when  the  mercury  falls  much  lower. 

Within  the  city  limits  are  several  warm  and  hot  springs 
which  have  wonderful  curative  properties.  These  springs 
are  connected  with  sanitariums  and  bathing  establishments 
where  the  invalid  may  bathe  and  be  treated.  Our  first  con- 
cern on  reaching  Salt  Lake  City  was  to  provide  our  noon- 
day lunch,  which  was  somewhat  delayed.  After  satisfying 
the  cravings  of  the  inner  man  our  party  boarded  a  special 
train  of  the  Salt  Lake  and  Los  Angeles  Railroad  that  was 
in  waiting  to  convey  us  to  Saltair,  on  the  shores  of  the 
Great  Salt  Lake,  some  12  miles  distant.  A  dashing  ride 
of  30  minutes  brought  us  to  our  destination,  though  long 
before  we  reached  it  our  lungs  were  filled  with  the  refresh- 
ing and  bracing  salt  air.  Here  we  were  landed  at  the  lar- 
gest casino  and  dancing  pavilion  in  the  world,  built  out 
over  the  waters  of  the  lake,  4,000  feet  from  the  shore,  and 
supported  by  2,500  10-inch  piles.  The  buildings  are  of 
Moorish  style  of  architecture  and  were  built  at  an  expendi- 
ture of  $350,000.  The  length  of  the  building  is  1,200  feet 
and  the  extreme  width  355  feet.  The  lower  floor  is  used 
as  a  lunch  and  refreshment  bower,  and  will  seat  1,000  peo- 
ple at  the  same  time.  The  second  floor  has  a  dancing  hall 
140  by  250  feet.  Connected  with  the  pavilions  are  1,000 
modern  bath  houses,  each  equipped  with  fresh,  cold,  running 
water  piped  from  the  distant  mountains.  As  we  stepped 
forth  from  the  pavilion  there,  spread  before  us,  were  2,500 
square  miles  of  the  greatest,  most  majestic  and  mysterious 
sea  on  earth — the  Great  Salt  Lake — a  dazzling,  glittering, 
scintillating  jewel  of  the  desert.  There,  4,210  feet  above 
the  level  of  the  sea,  rippled  that  mysterious  lake  whose  ori- 

222 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 


SALTAIR    BEACH  AND    PAVILION. 

gin  no  man  knows.  In  those  waters  are  no  living  thing; 
only  deep,  dark  mystery  and  death  dwell  beneath  those 
briney  waves.  Here  is  salt  enough  to  give  savor  to  the 
whole  earth.  The  waters  are  almost  one- fourth  (22  per 
cent.)  salt.  On  one  of  the  banks  where  the  water  had  re- 
ceded were  immense  deposits  of  salt  which  were  being  dug 
up  with  pick  and  shovel  by  workmen,  loaded  on  cars  and 
hauled  to  the  factories  to  be  purified  and  refined. 

A  bath  in  these  alluring  and  mysterious  waters  was  the 
desire  of  us  all.  We  soon  parted  with  our  "two  bits"  (25 
cents)  and  received  in  exchange  a  straw  hat  and  a  very 
abbreviated  bathing  suit.  As  we  went  to  the  bathing  houses 
we  found  the  walks  and  steps  coated  thickly  with  pure  salt. 
A  word  of  caution  to  us  on  the  saltiness  of  the  water  caused 
us  to  enter  very  slowly  and  circumspectly.  The  water  at 
the  shore  was  shallow  and  deepened  very  gradually  as  we 
went  farther  into  the  lake.  The  deeper  we  got  we  found 
an  increasing  tendency  of  our  feet  to  rise  up  from  the  bot- 
tom, and  when  we  reached  a  depth  of  five  feet  they  abso- 

223 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 

lately  refused  to  stay  down.  Then  we  discovered  all  we 
had  to  do  was  let  our  feet  go  and  we  found  ourselves  safely 
floating  on  the  surface  of  the  water  without  any  effort  on 
our  part.  It  was  a  queer  and  startling  sensation  to  find 
that  we  could  not  sink  beneath  the  surface  of  the  water,  no 
difference  how  much  we  tried  to  do  so.  We  also  found 
that  the  water,  with  its  22  per  cent  of  salt,  was  a  nasty  thing 
to  trifle  with,  for  when  it  got  into  your  mouth  it  almost 
strangled  you,  and  when  dashed  into  your  eyes  it  would 
almost  blind  you,  burning  like  fire.  Yet,  when  we  finally 
emerged  from  the  briney  waves  all  our  fatigue  and  cares 
had  vanished,  and  we  felt  refreshed  and  rejuvenated,  but 
covered  with  a  thick  coating  of  salt,  like  a  frosted  cake.  A 
shower  bath  of  the  fresh  water  soon  relieved  us  of  the  saline 
deposit.  After  exhausting  all  the  novel  sights  and  pleasure 
of  bathing  at  the  Great  Salt  Lake,  the  special  train  of  open 
observation  cars  took  us  back  to  Salt  Lake  City. 

Upon  our  arrival  there  trolleys  were  waiting  to  take  us  to 
the  famous  Mormon  tabernacle.  That  immense  #nd  interest- 
ing building  is  one  of  the  first  edifices  that  attracts  the  eye 
on  approaching  the  city.  It  is  oblong,  or  eliptical,  in  shape 
and  is  250  by  150  feet.  The  roof  consists  of  a  single 
wooden  arch,  supported  by  46  pillars  of  cut  sandstone, 
which,  with  the  space  between,  used  for  doors,  windows, 
etc.,  constitute  the  walls.  The  roof  is  the  largest  self-sus- 
taining roof  in  the  United  States,  except  that  of  the  Grand 
Central  Depot,  New  York.  The  ceiling  of  the  roof  is  63 
feet  above  the  floor.  The  tabernacle  is  used  for  church 
purposes,  as  well  as  other  large  gatherings,  and  will  seat 
about  15,000  people.  In  the  west  end  of  the  edifice  stands 
the  great  organ,  pronounced  by  musical  critics  the  finest  in 

224 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 

the  world.  None  equal  it  in  variety  of  construction  and 
massiveness  of  tonal  quality.  The  original  organ  was  built 
about  40  years  ago,  and  many  of  the  metal  pipes  were 
carried  over  the  plains  by  the  Mormons  in  their  early  flight, 
but  the  organ  has  been  thoroughly  reconstructed  and  all  the 
known  improvements  added  until  it  stands  to-day  without 
a  peer.  It  is  53  feet  high,  30  feet  deep  and  33  feet  wide. 
It  has  108  stops  and  5,000  pipes  ranging  from  2  to  32  feet 
in  length.  We  were  treated  to  the  most  exquisite  musical 
feast  here  we  ever  enjoyed.  The  great  organ  was  presided 
over  by  Professor  J.  J.  McLellan,  a  musical  genius  and 
matchless  performer,  who  stands  without  a  peer  in  this 
country.  After  we  had  entered  the  building  the  doors  were 
locked  so  that  none  could  enter  and  interrupt  the  concert. 
Then  the  keys  were  gently  touched  by  the  master  hand  and 
sweetest  sounds  gently  rose  in  a  perfect  and  entrancing  har- 
mony. From  selection  to  selection  the  performer  passec 
with  the  greatest  ease,  carrying  his  hearers  along  in  a  be- 
wilderment of  delight.  The  artist  made  the  great  instru- 
ment fairly  talk  and  sing,  and  when  he  used  the  "voce  hu- 
mana"  stops  we  could  hear  the  beautiful  voices  blending  so 
harmoniously  and  sweetly  with  the  music  of  the  other  stops 
that  we  could  scarcely  believe  all  the  sounds  came  from  the 
organ  and  not  from  human  throats.  We  were  so  charmed 
and  captivated  by  Professor  McLellan's  music  that  when 
he  stopped,  after  playing  an  hour  and  a  half,  we  could 
scarcely  believe  the  concert  was  more  than  a  half  hour  long, 
and  we  could  readily  believe  that  "music  hath  charms  to 
soothe  the  savage  breast." 

The  acoustic  qualities  of   the  tabernacle  are  so  perfect 
that  we   heard  the  sound  of  a  pin   dropping  in  one  end  ol 

225 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 

the  building,  250  feet  distant.  In  front  of  the  great  organ  are 
the  seats  for  the  choir,  which  has  a  membership  of  250 
singers,  none  of  whom  are  paid.  At  the  close  of  the  organ 
recital,  Apostle  John  Henry  Smith,  of  the  Mormon  Church, 
and  the  editor  of  The  Desert  News,  the  church  paper,  made 
an  address  of  welcome,  and  incidentally  told  us  the  Mor- 
mons were  all  good  Americans,  and  that  they  had  been 
much  maligned;  that  they  are  trying  to  be  good  citizens 
and  support  the  United  States  Government.  The  anti- 
Mormon  party  is  very  bitter  in  its  attacks  upon  the  Mor- 
mons, and  several  of  the  members  in  the  city  told  us  that 
we  should  not  trust  the  Mormons,  that  they  were  insincere, 
etc.  We  doubtless  saw  the  cleanest  side,  for  the  Mormons 
did  not  invite  us  to  their  homes,  nor  reveal  any  of  their 
church  secrets  to  us.  They  claim  that  poligamy  is  being 
done  away  with. 

Upon  leaving  the  tabernacle  we  saw  the  great  Mormon 
temple  before  us,  but  we  entered  not  therein,  for  it  is 
not  permitted  that  any  but  the  apostles  and  good  ortho- 
dox Mormons  shall  enter  its  mysterious  portals.  It  is 
here  that  all  the  secret  and  mysterious  rites,  such  as  the 
"holy  marriage,"  are  administered.  The  temple  is  a  mag- 
nificent and  imposing  structure  of  dark  granite,  and  was, 
like  Solomon's  temple,  40  years  in  building.  It  was  com- 
menced in  1853,  by  Brigham  Young,  and  was  completed 
and  dedicated  in  1893.  It  is  186  1-2  feet  long  and  99  feet 
wide,  its  walls  being  16  feet  thick.  It  has  six  towers,  three 
at  each  end.  The  central  tower  is  222  1-2  feet  high,  and 
is  surmounted  by  a  golden  figure  of  the  Angel  Moroni 
bringing  the  gospel,  The  figure  is  made  of  hammered 
copper  and  is  covered  with  pure  gold  leaf.  It  is  12  feet 

226 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 


THE  TEMPLE  AND  TEMPLE  SQUARE. 

51-2  inches  high,  and  surmounting  its  crown  is  a  100 
candle  power  incandescent  light.  The  temple  covers  an 
area  of  21,860  square  feet  and  cost  $4,000,000. 

Nearby  the  temple  is  Assembly  Hall,  built  of  white 
granite  at  a  cost  of  $150,000.  It  will  accommodate  an 
audience  of  about  3,000,  and  is  used  for  small  meetings  by 
the  State  priesthood.  All  the  three  described  buildings  are 
located  in  what  is  known  as  Temple  Block,  a  square  con- 
taining 10  acres,  and  surrounded  by  a  high  adobe  wall 
built  in  1854. 

Just  east  of  the  Temple  Block  is  one  of  the  most  im- 
portant church  offices,  called  the  Tithing  House,  and  here 
it  is,  each  season,  that  each  member  of  the  Mormon  Church, 
be  he  poor  or  be  he  rich,  takes,  one-tenth  of  his  crops  or 

227 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 

business  to  be  used  for  the  Lord — otherwise  the  Mormon 
Church.  We  saw  a  poorly-clad  Mormon  with  his  mule 
team  and  share  of  grain  drive  up  to  pay  the  church.  Is  it 
any  wonder  that  the  church  is  wealthy  and  powerful  with 
such  sinews  of  war  continually  coming  in?  The  Gentile 
churches  might  well  take  profit  by  that  example  of  liberality, 
and  then  we  would  no  longer  hear  of  church  debts  and 
poorly  paid  parsons. 

The  Brigham  Young  houses — the  Lion  House,  the 
Bee  Hive  House  and  the  Amelia  Palace  are  nearby.  The 

Eagle  Gate  still  stands 
guard  over  what  was 
the  entrance  to  the 
spacious  grounds, 
which  contain  the 
many  homes  of  the 
late  Brigham  Young. 
A  little  farther  down 
the  street  is  the  colos- 
sal statue  of  Brigham 
THE  EAGLE  GATE.  Young.  The  most 

mammoth  business  emporium  in  the  city  is  the  department 
store  of  Zion's  Co-operative  Mercantile  Institution.  This 
store  does  a  business  of  $5,000,000  annually,  and  employs 
350  hands,  selling  anything  from  a  pin  to  a  four-horse 
wagon. 

After  leaving  the  Temple  Block  the  trolley  cars  were 
waiting  to  convey  us  all  around  the  beautiful  city.  Each 
car  had  its  guide  with  his  megaphone  to  direct  our  atten- 
tion to  all  the  public  buildings,  places  of  interest  and  palat- 
ial homes  of  its  many  millionaire  citizens.  The  city,  witii 

228 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 

its  high  elevation  of  4,218  feet  above  sea  level,  and  its  salu- 
brious and  exhilerating  climate  has  attracted  many  wealthy 
stockmen  and  mine  owners  to  build  their  magnificent  homes 
there.  The  people  of  the  city  are  not  all  Mormons.  In 
fact  we  were  surprised  to  learn  that  more  than  one-third  of 
the  citizens  are  Gentiles,  or  non-Mormons.  The  force  and 
power  of  the  Gentiles  and  independent  Mormons  was  strik- 
ingly illustrated  on  Tuesday,  November  7th,  1905,  when 
they  carried  the  city  by  a  handsome  majority  over  the  Mor- 
mon organization,  electing  a  mayor  and  city  council. 

The  grandeur  and  magnificence  of  the  public  build- 
ings, and  the  size  and  stability  of  the  business  blocks  exci- 
ted our  wonder  and  admiration.  Three  miles  out  from  the 
city  and  700  feet  in  the  air,  above  the  city,  Uncle  Sam  has 
located  a  military  post,  with  a  strong  garrison,  called  Fort 
Douglass 

At  the  conclusion  of  the  trolley  ride  we  scattered  to 
get  our  dinner,  to  meet  later  at  the  railroad  station  to  re- 
sume pur  way  southward.  Everything  was  soon  in  readi- 
ness, and  we  left  Salt  Lake  City  about  eight  o'clock  in  the 
evening  of  July  1st,  over  the  Denver  and  Rio  Grande  Rail- 
road. Just  before  leaving  we  planned  and  carried  out  a 
pleasant  surprise  on  our  genial,  able  and  most  efficient  sec- 
retary, Mr.  William  A.  Ashbrook,  of  Johnstown,  Ohio,  who 
had  planned  the  itinerary  of  our  tour,  and  so  successfully 
managed  the  trip.  The  testimonial  was  an  elegant  ring  of 
Masonic  design,  set  with  a  beautiful  diamond.  The  gift 
was  a  complete  surprise  to  Mr.  Ashbrook,  and  he  highly 
appreciated  it  on  account  of  the  good  will  and  friendship 
which  suggested  its  bestowal. 


229 


CHAPTER    XXXI. 

ON   THE  WAY  TO    COLORADO— GLENWOOD    SPRINGS,  THE 
WONDERFUL — THE   MINERAL  SPRINGS  AND  VAPOR 

CAVES. 

r  I  "HE  Denver  and  Rio  Grande  Railroad,  which  had  us 
JL  in  charge  from  Salt  Lake  City  to  Denver,  a  distance 
741  miles,  is  an  ideally  managed  road,  and  is  the  grandest 
scenic  route  in  the  world.  The  officers  of  the  road  are  gen- 
tlemen in  every  sense  of  the  word,  and  they  treated  us  with 
the  greatest  courtesy  and  kindly  attention,  and  did  all  in 
their  power  for  our  comfort  and  pleasure. 

The  Denver  and  Rio  Grande  Railroad  ascends  rapidly 
soon  after  leaving  Salt  Lake  City.  After  we  had  ran  about 
two  hours  it  became  necessary  to  attach  three  additional 
locomotives  to  pull  our  train  up  the  mountain,  we  having 
three  engines  in  front  pulling  and  one  behind  pushing,  until 
at  Soldier  Summit,  Utah,  we  had  reached  an  altitude  of 
7,460  feet  and  then  commenced  to  descend  for  a  couple  of 
hundred  miles.  During  the  night  we  passed  through  the 
remaining  portion  of  Utah,  leaving  it  at  Utahline.  The 
next  morning,  Sunday,  found  us  in  the  Centennial  State, 
Colorado.  The  joyful  word  was  passed  that  we  would  soon 
reach  the  famous  Glenwood  Springs,  where  we  would Jiave 
our  Sunday  breakfast. 

Glenwood  Springs,  besides  its  well-earned   reputation 

230 


THE  VALLEY  OF   THE   GRAND    RIVER,  COLORADO. 


THE  HOTEL  COLORADO,  GLENWOOD  SPRINGS,  COLORADO. 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 


OPEN   OBSERVATION    CAR. 

by  reason  of  its  hot  springs,  is  noted  as  a  favorite  outfitting 
station  for  the  hunters  who  delight  in  going  after  big  game, 
Here  it  was  that  President  Roosevelt  stopped  last  spring  and 
made  his  preparations  to  penetrate  the  mountain  fastnesses 
and  forests  in  search  of  the  grizzly  bear  and  other  large 
game.  Teddy  got  the  big  bear,  and  they  tell  many  stories 
of  his  prowess  and  bravery. 

After  running  some  time  by  the  side  of  a  dashing, 
tumbling  mountain  torrent,  our  train  rushed  past  a  project- 
ing hill  and  Glenwood  Springs  and  the  valley  of  the  Grand 
River  was  before  us.  We  made  a  dash  over  the  high 
bridge  spanning  the  river  to  the  Hotel  Colorado,  one  of 
the  finest,  most  perfectly  appointed  and  successful  resort 
hotels  in  the  country.  Here  we  were  given  a  breakfast 
with  a  long  menu  at  $1  per  head,  but  owing  to  the  short 
time  at  our  disposal  some  of  us  were  unable  to  eat  the 
worth  of  our  money.  Glenwood  Springs  is  located  in  a 

231 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 


CASTLE  GATE. 


most  romantic  spot  in 
the  heart  of  the  Rocky 
Mountains  at  an  ele- 
vation of  5,600  feet 
above  sea  level. — 
These  hot  springs 
have  been  called  the 
Kissingen  of  Ameri- 
ca, because  their  wat- 
ers are  very  similar  in 
composition  and  ef- 
fects to  those  of  the 
noted  springs  in  Kis- 
singen, Germany. 
The  most  famous  of  the  springs  is  called  the  Yampah,  hav- 
ing been  so  named  by  the  Indians  generations  ago,  when 
the  dusky  aborigines  brought  their  sick  and  wounded  braves 
to  the  hot  springs  to  bathe  and  be  healed  by  the  "Spirit  of 
the  Waters,"  as  they  called  the  carbonic  acid  gas  which  is 
given  off  in  great  quantities  from  the  waters.  The  early 
white  settlers  learned  of  these  hot  mineral  springs  from  the 
Indians,  and  their  fame  has  gone  on  increasing  ever  since. 
In  addition  to  the  hot  springs  there  are  three  large  natural 
caves  in  the  sides  of  the  mountains  which  are  filled  with 
steaming  hot  gaseous  vapors.  The  caves  have  been  fitted 
up  with  marble  seats  and  modern  comforts,  and  there  can 
be  taken  nature's  hot  vapor  baths.  The  Yampah  spring 
flows  1,700  gallons  of  hot  water  per  minute.  Nearby  is  the 
great  swimming  pool,  600  feet  long  and  covering  about  an 
acre.  The  water  pours  into  it  from  the  spring  at  a  temper- 
ature of  172  degrees  Fahrenheit,  but  is  reduced  to  a  pleas- 

232 


w 


w 
I 

»—  i 

I 

o 
t-1 
w 

1 
§ 


! 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 


CHIPETA    FALLS,   UTAH. 

ant  temperature  for  bathing  by  the  mingling  of  cold  water 
from  the  mountain  streams.  The  waters  of  these  streams 
are  especially  efficacious  in  all  stomach  troubles  and  ner- 
VDUS  diseases.  The  sufferer  of  chronic  diseases  of  the  blood 
and  skin,  rheumatism  and  catarrh  find  relief  and  cure  at 
these  baths.  Here  all  kinds  and  conditions  of  people  can 
enjoy  the  benefits  of  the  waters.  There  are  many  moderate 
priced  hotels  and  boarding  he  uses,  and  there  are  bath  houses 
for  even  the  poorest  of  humanity  to  use.  The  famous  Hotel 
Colorado  is  224  feet  front  and  260  feet  deep,  and  is  built 
around  three  sides  of  a  large  court.  The  hotel  is  construc- 
ted of  peach  blow  sandstone  and  Roman  brick,  modeled  in 
Italian  style  after  the  famous  Villa  Medici  in  Rome.  The 
Colorado  can  accommodate  600  guests  and  provide  them 
with  all  the  modern  comforts  of  life. 

233 


CHAPTER  XXXH. 

THE  CANYON  OF  THE  GRAND — THE  MOUNT   OF  THE 
HOLY  CROSS— THE  ROYAL  GORGE. 

FROM  Glenwood  Springs  commenced  the  most  roman- 
tic picturesque  part  of  our  ride  down  through  the  can- 
yon of  the  Grand  River.  The  valley  at  Glenwood  Springs 
was  wide,  but  soon  after  leaving  that  station  the  valley  dis- 
appeared and  we  were  in  the  midst  of  the  canyon.  At  one 
side  the  railroad  was  cut  out  of  the  rocks  at  the  base  of  the 
cliff;  next  the  railroad  was  the  Grand  River  and  on  the 
other  side  of  the  river  was  a  narrow  and  winding  drive  road 
cut  out  of  the  rocks  at  a  great  expense  by  the  State  of  Col- 
orado, which  was  called  the  Taylor  State  R.oad.  It  did  not 
seem  wide  enough  for  two  teams  to  pass,  and  two  horsemen 
riding  abreast  seemed  to  fill  it  up. 

As  we  passed  along  a  huge  black  bear  was  seen  to 
come  down  a  ravine,  cross  the  Taylor  road  and  leisurely 
drink  from  the  stream.  Perhaps  bruin  thought  the  editors 
were  poor  shots  and  he  was  in  no  danger  from  the  party. 
The  train  did  not  even  stop  to  let  us  have  a  shot  at  him. 
We  now  entered  the  canyon  which  is  celebrated  for  its 
sublime  beauty  and  grandeur.  The  canyon  is  so  narrow 
and  its  sides  so  precipitous  that  there  is  not  room  for  both 
the  river  and  the  railroad,  so  in  many  places  a  resting  place 
for  the  iron  rails  had  to  be  cut  out  of  the  rocky  face  of  the 

234 


I 


o 


8 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 


UP    MARSHALL    PASS,   COLORADO 

cliff — an  unparalled  engineering  feat.  The  river  rushes 
along  in  a  raging,  turbulent  and  thundering  torrent,  slowly 
eating  its  way  down  through  the  adamantine  bed;  while 
above  its  foaming  and  leaping  waters  tower  the  mighty 
granite  sides  of  the  canyon  seemingly  reaching  to  the  skies, 
being  in  places  from  2,000  to  3,000  feet  high.  Yea,  in 
places  those  walls  of  granite  are  so  lofty  and  the  canyon  so 
narrow  that  the  glorious  sunshine  never  penetrates  to  the 
bottom,  and  there  it  is  always  "dim  and  religious  twilight." 
We  gazed  with  awe,  wonder  and  admiration  upon  those 
mighty  walls,  which  stand  up  like  the  towering  battlements  of 
some  great  fortress,  lavishly  painted  in  the  colors  of  the  rain- 
bow by  nature's  artist  hands.  The  blending  of  the  maroon, 
vermillion,  green,  yellow,  brown,  purple  and  gray  are  most 
wonderful.  The  beholder  can  scarcely  believe  his  eyes 

235 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 

when  he  sees  that  wonderful  and  mysterious  blending  of 
colors;  it  does  not  seem  possible  that  they  are  real  and 
placed  there  by  nature. 

The  richest  colors  from  the  artist's  palette  are  there  in 
generous  and  harmonious  profusion,  such  as  feeble  man 
would  vainly  attempt  to  imitate.  The  dim  shades  and 
lights  in  the  bottom  of  the  canyon,  the  dark  blue  waters  of 
the  river,  the  gray  and  rugged  boulders  pushing  up  out  of 
the  stream,  the  lofty  cliffs,  with  their  beautiful  colorings, 
and  the  clear  sky,  with  its  wonderful  azure  are  combined  to 
make  the  most  marvelous  and  beautiful  picture  we  ever  be- 
held, and  one  that  will  linger  long  on  the  films  of  our  mem- 
ory. Mere  words  are  poor  and  weak  and  entirely  inade- 
quate to  paint  the  sublimity  and  grandeur  of  the  scene. 

In  many  places  the  summits  of  the  canyon's  sides  have 
shot  up  in  rocky  pinnacles  closely  resembling  the  towers, 
minarettes  and  steeples  of  mighty  temples.  The  walls  in 
many  places  are  pierced  with  deep  and  dark  caverns,  in 
which  man  or  beast  may  dwell  in  safety.  At  other  places 
there  are  peculiar  openings  and  formations  in  the  sides  of 
the  canyon  which  did  not  look  unlike  the  homes  of  the  cliff 
dwellers.  In  many  places  the  river  took  such  sharp  and 
sudden  turns  that  the  railroad  had  to  be  run  through  tun- 
nels in  the  projecting  cliffs,  and  at  one  place  we  passed 
through  a  natural  tunnel  which  the  river,  in  ages  long  gone 
by,  had  bored  through  the  granite  shield.  The  ride  through 
the  canyon  is  one  continuous  panorama  of  nature's  most 
sublime  pictures,  which  awe,  yet  delight  the  beholder,  and 
fill  him  with  wonder  and  deep  reverence  for  the  Creator  of 
all  this  beauty. 

Some  miles  farther  on  the  canyon  widens  out  and  we 

236 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 


EAGLE  RIVER  CANYON 

pass  through  the  "lava  beds."  For  miles  and  miles,  on 
each  side  of  the  tracks,  stretch  the  black  lava  deposits  in 
fantastic  shapes,  which  were  cast  there  in  the  dim  and  misty 
past  by  some  violent  volcanic  eruption.  It  is  said  that  in 
these  very  lava  beds  the  Indians  were  wont  to  take  refuge 
when  too  hotly  pursued  by  the  troops. 

Later  we  entered  the  valley  of  the  Eagle  River  where 
we  saw  many  ranches  and  farmers  cultivating  crops  and 
herding  cattle.  At  Minturn  station  our  train  was  cut  in 
three  sections  to  ascend  the  very  steep  grades  starting  there 
up  over  the  mountain  and  through  the  beautiful  and  roman- 
tic scenery  of  the  Eagle  River  canyon.  It  is  July  2d  as 
we  thus  ascend  the  mountain  toward  Tennessee  Pass.  The 
people  in  the  east  are  sweltering  in  the  heat,  but  just  before 
we  reach  the  pass  we  run  into  a  fierce  snow  storm  and  the 
temperature  gets  unpleasantly  cold.  The  scene  is  wonder- 

237 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 

ful — here  we  are  at  an  altitude  of  10,240  feet  above  the  sea 
level,  within  3000  feet  as  high  as  Pikes  Peak,  and  on  all 
sides  are  seen  lofty,  snow-clad  mountain  peaks.  The  brake- 
man  of  our  train  informed  us  that  it  was  a  very  common 
thing  to  run  into  snow  storms  at  the  pass,  and  that  two 
years  previous,  in  August,  he  had  frozen  his  ears  in  cross- 
ing the  pass. 

Tennessee  Pass,  Colorado,  is  said  to  be  the  highest 
point  reached  by  a  railroad,  except  one  or  two  points  in  the 
Alps.  Some  of  our  party  were  made  weak  and  drowsy  and 
caused  to  bleed  at  the  nose  by  the  high  altitude,  while 
others  were  unaffected.  At  Tennessee  Pass  we  rushed 
through  a  tunnel  half  a  mile  long  and  emerged  on  the  At- 
lantic side  of  the  Rocky  Mountains.  Our  train  was  united 
here  and  we  sped  down  the  mountain  hauled  by  a  single 
engine.  The  waters  on  this  side  of  the  mountain  flow 
toward  the  Atlantic  Ocean,  while  on  the  other  side  of  the 
pass  they  rush  towards  the  Pacific  Ocean. 

A  short  time  later  our  train  stopped  and  we  alighted  to 
gaze  off  in  the  distance  at  a  mountain  peak  rising  its  lofty 
head  above  the  sea.  It  is  the  Mountain  of  The  Holy  Cross. 
There,  high  on  the  side  of  the  mountain,  was  the  large 
white  cross,  bright  and  brilliant,  its  top  almost  reaching  to 
the  peak  and  its  foot  hundreds  of  feet  down  the  mountain 
side.  There,  centuries  ago,  perhaps  at  the  creation  of  the 
world,  God  planted  in  the  very  skies,  and  in  the  center  of 
the  continent,  an  indestructible  sign  by  which  all  mankind 
should  be  reminded  of  Him  who  died  to  save  the  fallen 
race.  One  writer  standing  before  that  mount  exclaimed: 
"Humble  thyself,  O  man !  Uncover  thy  head  and  acknowl- 
edge thy  weakness !  Forget  not  that  as  high  above  thy 

238 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST, 


MOUNT  OF  THE  HOLY  CROSS 
239 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 

gilded  spires  gleams  the  splendor  of  this  ever-living  Cross, 
so  are  My  thoughts  above  thy  thoughts,  and  My  ways 
above  thy  ways !" 

Some  miles  back,  at  Rifle,  an  old  fashioned  stage,  with 
leather  springs,  such  as  the  colonial  fathers  rode  in,  which 
was  drawn  by  four  white  horses,  met  the  train.  The  stage 
line  runs  from  that  point  --  miles  back  over  the  mountains 
to  Meeker.  It  takes  24  hours  to  make  the  journey,  and 
you  have  to  pay  $8  for  riding  in  the  antiquated  coach  that 
far,  with  an  occasional  hold  up  thrown  in  by  way  of  variety. 
Some  of  us  climbed  into  the  coach  and  decided  that  it  would 
be  a  very  easy  and  comfortable  conveyance. 

At  Leadville  Junction  we  were  a  couple  of  miles  from 
that  famous  place  of  gold  mines,  and  could  see  some  of  the 
town,  but  as  the  route  mapped  out  for  our  journey  did  not 
include  Leadville,  we  passed  it  on  the  side.  We  soon  ap- 
proached the  Royal  Gorge  of  the  Arkansas  River.  This 
gorge  is  only  seven  miles  in  length,  but  is  one  of  the  grand- 
est spectacles  of  nature  in  the  world,  no  other  canyon  pre- 
senting the  same  features  of  grandeur.  As  we  entered  the 
gorge  and  penetrated  farther  into  it,  the  walls  grew  higher 
and  higher,  until  they  were  3,000  feet  in  heighth — over  half 
a  mile,  straight  up  from  the  waters  of  the  river  toward  the 
sky.  There  we  were  in  the  twilight,  in  the  bottom  of  the 
gorge,  while  high  up  on  the  summits  the  noon  day  sun 
shone  brightly.  Here  were  the  massive  walls  of  stone,  at 
the  bases  dark  and  gray  and  toward  the  tops  tinted  with 
the  rich  blen dings  of  purple,  brown,  gold  and  silver,  with  a 
strength  and  majesty  that  defied  both  time  and  man.  As 
our  train  moved  along  the  canyon  grew  narrower  and  nar- 
rower, until  there  seemed  scarcely  room  for  both  river  and 

240 


THE  CURRECANTI  NEEDLE,  FIFTEEN  HUNDRED  FEET. 
HIGH,  ON  DENVER  &  RIO  GRANDE  RAILWAY 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 


THROUGH  THE  ROYAL  GORGE. 

railroad.  The  river  flowed  in  a  deep  channel  scarcely  50 
feet  wide,  dashing  and  lashing  the  rocks  in  its  fury  at  being 
so  confined  and  restrained.  At  length  we  came  to  a  place 
where  there  was  in  reality  no  room  or  foundation  for  the 
railroad,  and  the  river  flowed  along  in  an  almost  fathomless, 
dark  and  turbulent  stream — not  unlike  the  river  Styx.  The 
ingenuity  of  man  rose  superior  to  the  might  of  the  river, 
and  a  hanging  bridge  was  tied  to  the  granite  sides  of  the 
canyon,  and  the  deep  gulf  spanned.  When  the  train  came 
to  this  hanging  bridge  it  stopped  and  we  alighted.  From 

241 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 

the  edge  of  that  Stygian  stream  we  looked  up  to  the  sum- 
mits of  the  canyon  and  vainly  sought  to  see  the  brilliant 
sun  above.  We  stood  awed,  impressed  and  speechless  at 
the  sublimity  and  grandeur  of  the  scene.  The  trainmen 
examined  the  condition  of  the  bridge  and  then  we  passed 
over  in  safety. 

It  is  told  that  when  the  engineers  constructing  the  line 
of  the  Denver  and  Rio  Grande  Railroad  came  to  this  spot 
in  the  Royal  Gorge  where  there  was  no  foothold  for  the 
tracks,  and  found  the  river  so  deep  and  its  current  so  fierce 
and  strong  they  thought  their  labors  lost,  and  that  the  work 
would  have  to  be  abandoned.  One  daring  spirit  suggested 
the  idea  of  a  hanging  bridge.  The  idea  was  quickly 
grasped.  So  a  number  of  workmen  were  taken  miles  around 
to  the  top  of  the  canyon,  and  a  brave  employe  was  then 
lowered  3,000  feet  down  over  the  face  of  the  cliffs  to  cut 
holes  in  the  granite  walls  to  which  the  first  supports  of  the 
swinging  bridge  were  anchored.  The  rest  of  the  construc- 
tion was  easy.  The  greatest  and  grandest  scenic  railway 
in  the  world  thus  became  a  possibility,  and  soon  became  a 
reality.  Since  then  thousands  upon  thousands  of  travelers 
have  passed  in  safety  over  that  trembling  bridge  without  a 
single  tremor.  We  left  that  scene  of  sublime  beauty  with 
keen  regret. 


242 


CHAPTER  XXXIII. 

PUEBLO — THE  PITTSBURG  OF  THE  WEST. 

I  ?  MERGING  from  the  Royal  Gorge  we  reached  Can- 
1  ^  yon  City,  the  county  seat  of  Fremont  county,  and  the 
seat  of  the  Colorado  State  penal  institutions.  That  city 
has  also  become  noted  as  a  health  and  pleasure  resort. 
From  that  city  we  passed  through  some  grazing  and  farm- 
ing lands. 

We  arrived  the  same  evening  at   Pueblo,  Colorado,  in 


THE  MINNEQUA  STEEL  WORKS,  PUEBLO. 

time  for  supper  at  the  Union  station  dining  room.  After 
supper  the  most  of  our  party  strolled  about  the  city.  Al- 
though it  was  Sabbath  evening  we  found  many  shops  and 
stores  open,  except  the  large  commercial  and  mercantile  es- 
tablishments. Pueblo  is  an  important  and  progressive  city 
of  about  36,000  people.  It  is  far  in  advance,  commercially, 
of  many  other  western  cities,  and  is  full  of  large  and  grow- 

243 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST- 


SILVER  AND  GOLD  SMELTER,  PUEBLO 

ing  manufacturing  industries.  There  are  so  many  steel 
and  iron  works  and  manufactories  in  Pueblo  that  it  has 
become  known  as  the  "Pittsburg  of  the  West."  The  city 
has  great  wealth,  fine  business  blocks,  magnificent  houses, 
complete  railroad  facilities,  excellent  public  improvements 
and  utilities.  Many  of  the  wealthiest,  most  progressive  and 
public  spirited  of  Pueblo's  citizens  are  former  Pennsylvan- 
ians,  and  they  still  have  a  warm  spot  in  their  hearts  for  the 
Keystone  State  and  her  people.  This  may  account  for  the 
city's  material  prosperity  and  advancement  into  the  ranks 
of  the  manufacturing  and  cosmopolitan  cities. 

The  motto  of   Pueblo   is  "Watch    Our   Smoke,"  thus 
directing  attention   to  their  several  hundred  manufacturing 

244 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 


MAIN  STREET,   PUEBLO 

industries  and  silver  ore  smelters,  which  annually  turn  the 
raw  materials  into  millions  of  bright  golden  dollars.  The 
business  of  the  city  is  of  great  magnitude,  and  last  year  the 
smelters  and  manufactories  did  upwards  of  $100,000,000 
worth  of  business. 

The  monthly  wages  of  the  city's  workmen  exceed 
$1,500,000,  while  the  toilers  in  the  steel  mills  earn  each 
month  about  $350,000.  That  much  cash  put  into  business 
circulation  each  month  greatly  stimulates  the  retail  trade. 
The  nine  trunk  line  railroads  entering  the  city  are  put  to 
their  utmost  endeavors  in  handling  the  enormous  volume  of 
freight  entering  and  leaving  Pueblo.  The  city  has  over 
600  wholesale  and  retail  business  houses.  There  are  13 
up-to-date  newspapers  and  publications  in  the  city,  49 
churches  and  two  libraries — the  beautiful  McClelland  Li- 
brary and  the  handsome  new  Carnegie  Library,  just  com- 
pleted. Pueblo  is  full  of  secret  orders,  lodges  and  clubs. 

245 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 


UNION   AVENUE,  PUEBLO 

The  principal  ones  are  the  Pueblo  Club,  the  Minnequa 
Club  and  the  Elk  Club,  all  of  which  have  handsome  and 
imposing  quarters.  The  park  system  is  well  planned  and 
ably  administered.  There  are  nine  of  these  beautiful  pleas- 
ure grounds.  There  are  many  beautiful  and  magnificent 
homes  within  the  confines  of  Pueblo,  where  generous  hospi- 
tality and  open-hearted  friendship  reign  supreme.  The 
architect,  the  artist  and  the  landscape  gardner  have  all  done 
their  best  for  Pueblo's  homes. 

A  great  future  apparently  lies  before  Pueblo  and  its 
people.  We  regretted  that  our  time  did  not  allow  us  to 
visit  Trinidad  and  other  interesting  places  in  Southern 
Colorado. 


246 


w 

< 
w 

PW 
r/2 

"w 

w 

S 

g 

H-( 

Q 
2 

W 

&j 

< 
G 
O 
J 


w 

w 
8 

u 


CHAPTER  XXXIV. 


COLORADO    SPRINGS — THE    SCENIC    SPOT    OF    AMERICA — 

PIKE'S  PEAK,   THE  SUBLIME — MANITOU,  THE 

PICTURESQUE. 

AT  9  o'clock  Sunday  night  our  special  train  pulled  out 
for  Colorado  Springs,  arriving  at  that  city  at  10  o'clock 
the  same  evening.     Some  of  our  party  remained  over  night 

in  Pueblo  and  rejoined  us 
on  Monday  morning  at 
Colorado  Springs.  Of  the 
Colorado  health  and  pleas- 
ure resorts  Colorado 
Springs  is  the  best  known 
and  most  famous.  The 
city  has  a  population  oi 


30,000  people,  and  is  sur- 
HOTEL  ANTLERS  rounded  by    some   of  the 

greatest  scenic  wonders  of  the  world.  At  its  very  doors  the 
great  Pike's  Peak  rears  its  snowy  and  sun-lit  top  in  the 
midst  of  strange  rock  formations,  mighty  canyons  and 
sparkling  mineral  springs.  The  city  is  located  on  a  large 
plateau  6,915  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  and  its  climate 
is  most  wonderful — never  too  hot  nor  too  cold,  but  always 
dry,  bracing,  refreshing  and  health-giving,  with  315  days 
of  the  year  brilliant  sunshine  and  gentle  breezes.  It  has 

247 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST, 


CASCADE  AVENUE 

been  appropriately  called  "The  City  of  Sunshine."  Colo- 
rado Springs  is  becoming  so  well  known  and  famous  that 
no  trip  to  the  West  or  the  Pacific  Coast  is  considered  com- 
plete without  a  visit  to  the  Springs.  The  winter  climate  is 
said  to  be  even  more  glorious  and  bracing  than  that  of  sum- 
mer. The  city  is  the  center  oi  attraction  of  the  grandest 
Rocky  Mountain  scenery.  Three  miles  away  to  the  south 
is  the  entrance  to  the  beautiful  and  romantic  South  Chey- 
enne canyon.  The  same  distance  to  the  north  we  find  the 
entrance  to  the  picturesque  scenery  of  North  Cheyenne  can- 
yon. Farther  on  is  Cheyenne  Mountain,  crowned  by  the 
Seven  Lakes.  Five  miles  to  the  west  is  Manitou,  with  its 
famous  and  health-giving  iron  and  soda  springs,  which  the 
Indians  of  old  believed  were  blest  and  troubled  by  the  spirit 
of  Manitou  for  their  healing.  Thirty  miles  southwest, 
reached  by  the  Cripple  Creek  Railroad  through  mountain 

248 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 


VIEW  OF  PIKE'S  PEAK  FROM  COLORADO  SPRINGS 
scenery  of  unequalled  beauty,  is  the  famous  Cripple  Creek, 
a  gold  mining  city  of  50,000  people,  whose  mines  last  year 
produced  $25,000,000  worth  of  gold.     Three  miles  to  the 
northwest  is  the  marvelous  ''Garden  of  the  Gods." 

Colorado  Springs  is  well  supplied  with  hotels,  large 
and  small,  and  many  boarding  houses  to  accommodate  the 
thousands  of  tourists  who  visit  them  annually.  The  swell 
hotel  of  the  place  is  the  Antlers,  erected  at  an  expense  of 
$500,000,  with  all  the  comforts  of  life  so  much  demanded 
by  the  fastidious  and  wealthy  tourists.  The  hotel  is  of 
beautiful  and  massive  architecture ;  is  built  of  buff  brick  and 
sand  stone,  and  is  entirely  fire-proof.  It  has  a  ball  room 
50x85  feet,  with  a  stage,  so  that  it  can  be  used  as  a  thea- 
tre. Its  rotunda  is  53x90  feet,  and  the  dining  room  50x90 
feet.  The  hotel  can  accommodate  500  guests.  The  Ant- 
lers is  conducted  in  the  most  modern  and  skillful  manner  by 

249 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 


BRODAMOOR   CASINO,   COLORADO   SPRINGS 

Mr.  L.  A.  Kittredge,  formerly  of  Kenilworth  Inn,  Biltmore, 
Ashville,  North  Carolina.  The  Alta  Vista  Hotel,  the 
Alamo  and  the  Plaza  are  other  modern  hotels  catering  to  a 
large  class  of  patrons  at  Colorado  Springs. 

The  first  thing  the  tourist  wants  to  do  at  Colorado 
Springs  is  climb  to  the  snowy  summit  of  Pike's  Peak, 
which  has  an  elevation  of  14,147  feet,  and  is  one  of  the 
highest  mountains  in  the  world.  There  are  three  ways  of 
ascending  Pike's  Peak,  by  foot,  (tedious  climbing)  on 
horseback  or  by  burro  and  by  the  cogwheel  steam  railroad. 
The  favorite  plan  is  to  go  up  early  by  the  cogwheel  route 
and  see  the  sun  rise  from  that  lofty  perch.  This  plan  was 
adopted  by  most  of  our  party.  They  arose  early  and  went 
to  Manitou,  the  starting  place  of  the  railroad,  determined  to 
"Reach  Pike's  Peak  or  bust."  From  the  starting  point  to 
the  top  of  the  Peak  by  rail  is  91  miles  of  slow,  tedious  and 

250 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 


COG  ROAD  STATION,  MANITOU 

torturing  riding.  That  little  bit  of  crooked  road  was  built 
with  great  difficulty,  and  at  an  outlay  of  half  a  million  dol- 
lars of  very  hard  cash. 

Half  way  up  the  mountain  an  enterprising  newspaper 
"devil"  has  located  a  small  press  and  publishes  daily  The 
Pike's  Peak  News.  Before  the  train  leaves  Manitou  the 
names  of  the  visitors  are  'phoned  up  to  the  editor,  and  by 
the  time  your  car  reaches  the  half-way  house  the  sheet  is 
published,  and  in  it  appears  your  name  as  one  of  those  who 
had  that  day  ascended  Pike's  Peak.  You  willingly  part 
with  ten  cents  for  a  copy  of  the  paper.  The  Daily  Pike's 
Peak  News  has  proven  a  veritable  gold  mine  to  its  pub- 
lisher. Notwithstanding  the  early  rising  of  our  editors  the 
sun  had  arisen  before  they  gained  the  summit,  yet  none  re- 
gretted their  lost  sleep,  labor  and  fear  in  ascending  the 
Peak,  for  there  spread  before  the  vision  was  one  of  the 
grandest  and  most  beautiful  sights  the  eyes  of  mortal  man 
ever  looked  upon.  What  a  mighty  picture  it  was.  There 
spread  out  was  a  mighty  panorama  of  60,000  square  miles 

251 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 


THROUGH  THE   DEVIL'S  DOORWAY, 
PIKE'S  PEAK  RAILWAY 

of  mountains,  plains,  valleys  and  vales,  dotted  here  and 
there  with  cities,  towns  and  villages,  with  rivers  and  rivu- 
lets tracing  their  threads  of  silver  in  serpentine  lines  in  all 
directions,  while  the  lakes  looked  like  unto  silver  mirrors 
framed  in  brown  and  green,  and  the  railroads  in  the  far  dis- 
tance, with  their  toy-like  trains,  looked  like  the  work  of 
midgets.  The  Ratoon  Mountains  and  Spanish  peaks  of 
New  Mexico,  the  glistening,  snowy  crests  of  the  Sangre  de 
Cristo  range  and  many  high  peaks  from  60  to  150  miles 
away,  are  seen  clearly.  Just  think  of  being  able  to  look 
down  on  such  a  glorious  panorama,  almost  a  third  again  as 
large  as  the  entire  State  of  Pennsylvania!  Such  a  sight 
once  seen  will  never  be  forgotten. 

Pike's  Peak  is  history — a  strange,  hushed  romance. 
Oblivion  veils  its  mystic  past.  No  crumbling  parchment 
hints  its  thrilling  tales.  Yet  it  is  older,  so  scientists  relate, 
than  regions  that  are  thus  gazetted.  Men  lived  and 
wrought  in  the  long  ago.  The  great  white  mountain 

252 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 


MESA  ROAD  AND  ENTRACE  TO  GLEN 

EYRIE,  COLORADO  SPRINGS 

watched  it  all  and  locked  the  mighty  secrets  in  its  breast. 
Authentic  lore  of  this  monument  of  the  continent  dates  from 
November  13th,  1806,  when  Major  Zebulon  M.  Pike,  a 
gallant  soldier  and  a  daring  adventurer,  then  heading  a 
small  exploring  party  of  United  States  soldiers,  sighted  the 
mountain's  whitened  crest,  when  many  miles  distant  upon 
the  plains.  It  cost  him  ten  days7  marching  to  reach  its 

253 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 


IN  THE  UTE  PASS,   OVERLOOKING  MANITOU 

base,  and  after  vigorous  attempts  to  scale  it,  Pike  aband- 
oned the  project  with  the  declaration  that  "No  human  being 
could  ascend  to  its  pinacle."  That  was  long  ago.  There 
have  been  many  wonders  since.  The  United  States  has 
one  of  its  most  important  signal  stations  on  the  top  of 
Pike's  Peak,  where  most  valuable  observations  are  made 
and  hearlded  to  the  world.  The  time  to  return  eastward 
came  all  too  quickly,  and  loath  to  depart  our  party  took  a 
last  lingering  look  at  the  grand  master  piece. 

The  party  left  the  cogwheel  train  at  Manitou  station, 
and  the  greatest  trip  of  their  life  was  a  thing  of  the  past. 
The  situation  of  the  Manitou  health  resort  is  one  of  beauty 
and  grandeur,  nestling  at  the  foot  of  the  mighty  snow-cap- 
ged  mountains  and  surrounded  by  the  everlasting  hills.  It 
has  delightful  parks,  romantic,  winding  paths,  cool,  shaded 
and  arcaded  nooks,  a  very  world  of  scenic  beauty  crowded 

254 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 


ON  THE  BEAR  CREEK  CANYON  ROAD 

all  about.  There  are  many  fine  hotels  and  hundreds  of 
good  boarding  houses  to  accommodate  the  pleasure-seeker, 
as  well  as  the  ones  in  search  of  health.  We  even  saw  one 
hotel  with  the  familiar  old  name  Juniata  House  blazoned  in 
gold  over  its  doors.  We  tarried,  drank  copiously  of  the 
clear  crystal  waters  from  sparkling  and  effervescent  foun- 
tains, were  refreshed  and  received  our  share  of  health.  A 
band  gives  concerts  in  the  park  afternoons  and  evenings. 
A  number  of  our  party  took  advantage  of  the  occasion 
of  a  delay  at  Colorado  Springs  to  journey  up  over  the 
Cripple  Creek  Railroad.  It  is  a  road  of  great  engineering 
feats.  There  are  many  and  most  tortuous  curves,  climbing 
steadily  up  the  mountains,  fairly  leaping  the  gorges  from 
peak  to  peak;  over  canyons  and  crags  from  the  time  it  starts 
until  it  reaches  the  "Land  of  Gold,"  45  miles  away,  at 
Cripple  Creek.  It  is  a  glorious  trip,  ever  increasing  in 

255 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 


CITY  HALL,  COLORADO   SPRINGS 

beauty  and  grandeur  as  the  rails  reach  higher  and  higher 
and  higher  toward  the  clouds.  It  is  climb,  climb,  all  the 
time  until  the  train  reaches  an  altitude  of  9,490  feet  above 
the  sea  at  Cripple  Creek.  We  passed  through  the  romantic 
Bear  canyon,  the  gigantic  rocks  at  Point  Sublime  arose 
before  us,  and  far  below,  nestling  at  the  foot  of  the  moun- 
tains, we  could  see  Manitou,  Colorado  City  and  Colorado 
Springs.  On  the  right  extends  the  beauties  of  North 
Cheyenne  canyon,  while  hundred  of  feet  above  spring  the 
Silver  Cascade  Falls,  whose  waters,  in  the  early  morning 
light,  look  like  the  silvery  tresses  of  the  Frost  Sprite.  A 
little  further  on  .the  railroad  winds  around  the  sides  of  St. 
Peter's  Dome — that  majestic  peak,  not  unlike  in  shape  to 
the  famous  St.  Peter's  Dome,  of  Rome,  towers  thousands  of 
feet  in  the  air,  and  the  massive  pile  of  granite  stands  out 
alone  as  if  guarding  the  innermost  secrets  of  the  mountains. 

256 


CHAPTER  XXXV. 

THE  GARDEN   OF    THE    GODS — THE    ENCHANTED    INDIAN 
TEMPLE  OF  THE  GREAT    SPIRIT    MANITOU. 

OF  all  the  grand,  sublime  and  striking  natural  scenes 
among  the  mountain  marvels  of  the  "Land  of  the 
Turquoise  Sky"  (Colorado)  none  is  more  peculiar,  more 
interesting,  so  awe-inspring  and  more  frequently  visited 
than  the  world-famous  Garden  of  the  Gods,  near  Colorado 
Springs.  The  Garden  of  the  Gods  is  easily  and  quickly 
reached  by  carriages  or  trolley  cars  from  Colorado  Springs 
or  Manitou.  Around  this  most  remarkable  locality  cluster 
many  beautiful,  poetic  and  weird  legends. 

The  Garden  of  the  Gods  was  so  named  because,  in 
the  ages  past,  it  was  the  worshiping  place  of  the  mighty 
Indians — the  Temple  of  the  Great  God,  the  Great  Spirit 
Manitou,  and  of  all  the  host  of  lesser  divinities.  Here  came 
the  grave,  silent  and  dignified  Indian  warrior  in  the  pano- 
ply of  paint,  beads  and  feathers,  with  all  his  important  pe- 
titions, supplicating  the  favor,  support  and  protection  of  the 
Great  Spirit  Manitou  for  his  success  in  the  chase  and  vic- 
tory in  war  over  his  foes.  To  the  fanciful  and  superstitious 
redskins  the  strange  and  weird  figures,  into  which  the  God 
of  Nature  had  fashioned  and  moulded  the  towering  rocks, 
were  his  divinities,  and  in  the  mysterious  sounds  in  the  Echo- 
ing Cave  he  heard  the  voice  of  the  Great  Spirit  Manitou 

257 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 


ENTRANCE  TO  THE  GARDEN  OF  THE  GODS 

giving  reply  to  his  earnest  prayers.  After  hearing  some  of 
these  weird  legends  the  white  man  approaches  the  Garden 
of  the  Gods  subdued  and  awed  by  the  strange  mysteries 
clinging  around  the  spot.  The  entrance,  or  the  gateway, 
as  it  is  called,  is  most  impressive  to  the  beholder,  and  one 
pauses  ere  he  enters  therein.  On  either  side  of  the  pass- 
ageway stand  two  immense  and  mighty  slabs,  or  pillars,  of 
red  sand  stone,  soft,  warm  and  beautiful  in  color,  which 
tower  over  300  feet  up  into  the  air,  as  if  forbidding  the  mor- 
tal from  entering  the  sacred  precincts  of  that  temple.  A 
huge  boulder,  rusty  with  age,  stands  just  a  little  way  within 
the  entrance,  as  if  rolled  back  at  the  command  of  the  Great 
Spirit  Manitou  to  allow  his  worshipers  to  enter  there.  It  is 
said  that  during  the  famous  campaign  in  Egypt  the  great 
Napoleon,  to  impress  his  soldiers  and  excite  the  "Old 
Guard"  to  their  best  and  most  valiant  efforts  in  the  ap- 

258 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 


BALANCED  ROCK,  GARDEN  OF  THE  GODS 

preaching  battle,  told  them  that  4,000  years  looked  down 
upon  them  from  the  ancient  pyramids ;  but  here  in  the  sen- 
tinels of  the  gateway  of  the  Garden  of  the  Gods,  untold 
ages  look  down  upon,  awe  and  impress  the  beholder  with 
their  might  and  mystery.  The  mossiness  of  the  rocks,  the 
rich  colorings  of  dark  reds,  light  reds,  purple,  bright  yel- 
low, orange,  bronze  and  green,  all  in  harmonious  blendings, 
excite  the  wonder  and  admiration  of  the  spectator.  Once 

259 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 


CATHEDRAL  SPIRES,  GARDEN  OF  THE  GODS 

the  Gateway  is  passed  fresh  wonder  after  wonder  greets  the 
gaze  of  the  impressed  beholder  as  he  advances  inward. 
All  manner  of  strange  shapes  and  forms  are  seen  in  the 
massive,  isolated  rocks  which  stand  out  on  all  sides — here 
the  "Cathedral  Spires,"  with  their  high,  massive  and  won- 
derful shapes,  excite  our  admiration  and  wonder,  and  we 
can  well  imagine  them  to  be  like  unto  the  mighty  towers 
fronting  on  ancient  and  beautiful  cathedrals.  There,  on  all 

260 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 

sides,  in  the  still  rocks,  are  observed  weird  figures  of  men 
and  animals  strikingly  true  to  nature — the  Kneeling  Camel, 
the  Dolphin,  the  Lion,  the  Griffin,  the  Bear,  the  Seal,  the 
Kissing  Camels,  the  Statue  of  Liberty  and  so  on.  The 
interest,  beauty  and  grandeur  increases  as  one  progresses 
through  the  garden,  wonder  following  wonder,  marvel  suc- 
ceeding marvel,  until  the  farthest  end  is  reached,  and  we 
come  to  a  great  mass  of  red  sand  stone  weighing  thousands 
of  tons — the  Balanced  rock — standing  upon  a  small  pin- 
nacle. It  looks  as  if  some  mighty  giant  hand  in  past  ages 
had  cast  it  down  from  the  mountain  summits  above,  and  it 
fell  there  immovably  fixed,  looking  insecure  and  ready  to 
topple  over;  yet  neither  the  power  of  man,  nor  the  might  of 
wind,  nor  the  tempests  in  all  the  ages  that  have  come  and 
gone  have  been  able  to  shake  or  hurl  it  from  its  resting 
place.  There  it  stands  in  its  majesty  and  in  defiance  of  all 
the  powers  that  be,  a  mighty  monument. 

The  ghostly  voices  in  the  Echoing  Cave  gave  one  a 
feeling  of  oppressive  awe  and  fear,  and  we  wondered  not 
that  the  superstitious  and  fanciful  Indian  imagined  that  he 
heard  therein  the  voice  of  the  Great  Spirit  Manitou. 

From  that  most  interesting  and  remarkable  place  we 
departed  deeply  impressed  by  the  wonderful  and  mysterious 
workings  of  Nature's  God. 


261 


CHAPTER  XXXVI. 


SOUTH  CHEYENNE  CANYON — THE  SPOT   OF  POETIC 
BEAUTY  AND  ROMANCE. 

OF  all  the  beauty  spots  close  to  Colorado  Springs  we 
found  South  Cheyenne  Canyon  to  be  the  most  en- 
trancing and  romantically 
beautiful.  No  visit  to  that 
neighborhood  can  be  complete 
or  satisfactory  without  a  visit 
being  made  to  South  Cheyenne 
Canyon.  Its  beauty  has  been 
sung  by  poets;  lecturers  have 
vainly  struggled  to  portray  its 
beauty  in  words,  and  painters 
have  mixed  in  vain  their  colors 
trying  to  transfer  its  beauties 
upon  the  canvas.  So  loved 
Helen  Hunt  the  spot  that 
while  at  death's  sombre  portal 
she  thought  of  it  with  loving 
longing,  and  made  the  request 
that  her  body  be  laid  to  rest 
X^on  the  high  mountain  over- 
looking the  Seven  Falls.  Her 
RAINBOW  FALLS,  UTE  PASS  dying  wish  was  complied  with, 

262 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 


AT  THE  HEAD  OF  THE  SEVEN  FALLS 

and  her  body  was  borne  forth  by  sorrowing  friends  and  laid 
to  rest  in  a  rocky  grave  on  that  lonely  mountain- top  with 
only  the  Seven  Falls  to  stand  guard  there. 

We  visited  South  Cheyenne  Falls  under  the  most 
favorable  circumstances.  The  day  was  perfect,  the  sky 
was  of  the  deepest  blue  and  the  air  was  dry,  exhilarating 
and  bracing.  We  choose,  as  we  thought,  the  only  proper 
way  of  seeing  the  canyon — to  go  on  foot,  side  by  side  with 

263 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 


THE  HELEN  HUNT  FALLS 

nature,  with  no  hurrying  jehu  to  rush  us  along,  or  any 
guide  hired  by  the  hour  to  hurry  us  past  the  things  we 
wanted  to  look  longest  at,  or  to  give  us  a  glibe  story  about 
some  rock  and  knock  all  the  romance  out  of  it.  The  can- 
yon is  a  little  over  three  miles  long  and  the  ascent  is  grad- 
ual along  the  well-made  road,  but  the  paths  up  and  over 
the  mountain  sides  are  high  and  toilsome.  The  entrance 
to  the  canyon  is  a  scene  of  peace,  harmony  and  beauty. 

264 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 


There  was  a  babbling  brook  singing  merrily  over  the  moss- 
covered  stones,  while  on  the  banks  sweetly  sang  the  wild 
birds  in  their  happy  liberty.  By  the  pathway  sprang  all 
manner  of  beautiful  wild  flowers  of  every  hue  and  tint,  rais- 
ing their  sweet  faces  to  the  brilliant  morning  sun,  chief 

among  them  being  Colo- 
rado's State  flower,  the 
beautiful,  stately  and  fra- 
grant columbine,  with  its 
petals  painted  a  lovely  blue 
to  match  the  eyes  of  the 
sky.  The  graceful  bushes 
and  the  tall  pine  trees  with 
their  dark  green  foliage 
against  the  dark  granite 
•  cliffs,  made  a  picture  of 
wonderous  beauty.  The 
road  follows  closely  the 
windings  of  the  brook, 
curving  and  turning  thro' 
the  forest  until  it  emerges 
at  the  very  portals  of  the 
the  canyon.  Here  a  pic- 
ture of  majestic  beauty  con- 
fronted us.  The  granite 
mountain  stands  before  you 
deft  in  twain  as  though 
the  mighty  hand  of  a  giant  Titan  had  parted  it  that  we 
might  walk  through  and  see  the  beauties  and  wonders  with- 
in. On  the  right  is  a  high  and  massive  peak  of  beautiful 
colored  granite  called  Eagle  Cliff,  because  on  that  high 

265 


THE  SEVEN  FALLS 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 


ON  THE  DRIVEWAY,  NORTH  CHEYENNE  j  TAN  YON 

elevation  the  lordly  eagle  has  seen  fit  to  build  his 
home.  In  front  of  you  is  Mount  Cutler,  another  granite 
giant  of  the  ages,  on  whose  rugged  sides  are  two  peculiar 
rock  formations,  the  one  called  the  " Vacant  Chair"  and  the 
other  the  "Hindoo  Baby." 

At  the  gateway  of  the  canyon  we  found  in  front  of  us 
two  lofty  granite  peaks  towering  up  1,300  feet  into  the  sky, 
standing  apart  just  far  enough  to  allow  the  brook  and  the 

266 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST, 


ON  BEAR  CREEK  CANYON  ROAD 

road  to  pass  between.  These  gigantic  pillars,  thus  guard- 
ing the  portals  of  the  canyon,  have  been  rightly  named  the 
"Pillars  of  Hercules."  By  these  mighty  resting  supports 
of  Hercules  mere  mortal  man  seems  little,  insignificant  and 
impotent.  Passing  between  the  pillars  on  the  left  may  be 
seen  the  high  summit  of  Observation  Point  whence  a  fine 
view  may  be  had  of  the  canyon  and  lands  below.  A  short 
distance  beyond  we  came  to  a  place  in  the  canyon  of  rended 
and  shattered  rocks,  looking  as  though  some  volcantic 
eruption  had  shattered  and  tossed  them  about. 

To  the  left  a  bridle-path  crosses  the  crystal  brook, 
winding  back  and  forth  along  the  edge  of  the  canyon  and 
over  the  side  of  Observation  Point,  until  the  summit  is  finally 
reached,  where  is  found  the  romantic  grave  of  the  poetess, 
Helen  Hunt  Jackson,  like  unto  that  lonely  grave  on  Mount 
Nebo's  lofty  heights.  We  passed  through  the  narrows, 

267 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST, 


WEIRD  ROCK  FORMATIONS,  MONUMENT  PARK 

with  their  massive,  lofty  and  frowning  cliffs,  which  seem  to 
defy  the  warfare  of  time  and  the  elements.  Passing  by  the 
bridle-path,  proceeding  up  the  canyon,  along  the  main 
drive-road,  we  soon  entered  a  mighty  ampitheatre  surround- 
ed by  high,  frowning  granite  cliffs.  At  the  farthest  end  is 
the  beautiful  and  magnificent  display  of  the  Seven  Falls, 
whose  silvery  streams  plunge  in  a  foaming,  glittering  tor- 
rent from  the  rocks  234  feet  above,  in  seven  distinct  leaps 

268 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 


BRIDGE  OF  SIGHS,  MONUMENT  PARK        Bancroft  Ubraiy 

to  the  pool  below.  These  falls  have  a  peculiar  beauty  and 
grandeur  all  their  own  which  appeal  to  and  strongly  move 
the  most  stolid  and  unpoetic  mind.  And  these  are  the  falls 
that  Helen  Hunt  Jackson  loved  so  well.  The  owners  of 
the  South  Cheyenne  Canyon  have  built  a  safe  and  easy 
stairway  up  the  side  of  the  cliffs,  so  that  one  can  mount  to 
the  summit  of  the  Seven  Falls  and  view  the  beauties  of  the 
dashing  and  leaping  waters  from  above.  We  climbed  those 
300  steps.  Farther  along  the  stream  are  seen  the  graceful 
Bridal  Veil  Falls,  the  Midnight  Falls  and  the  silvery  Juan- 
iata  Falls.  The  west  branch  of  the  stream  is  fed  by  the 
melting  snows  of  Mount  Rosa,  and  flows  through  Arapahoe 
Pass.  The  brook  there  flows  over  giant  rocks  and  through 
mossy  banks  dotted  with  the  most  fragrant  of  wild  flowers. 
There  is  fragrant  columbine  in  white,  blue  and  yellow;  the 
gaudy  tiger  lily,  the  modest  primrose,  lady  slippers,  shoot- 

269 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 


THE  COLONADE,   MONUMENT  PARK 

ing  stars,  buttercups  and  sweet  violets.  The  place  is  one 
of  alluring  beauty,  quiet  and  enchantment.  Had  the  time 
permitted  we  would  have  penetrated  farther  along  the  stream 
seeing  new  features  of  beauty  at  each  step,  but  we  had 
there  to  pause  and  retrace  our  steps  to  Colorado  Springs. 


270 


CHAPTER    XXXVII. 

DENVER — THE  CITY  OF  SUNSHINE — THE    PARTING 
OF  THE  WAYS. 

T3  EACHING  Colorado  Springs  the  special  train  was  in 
JLV  readiness  to  carry  our  party  on  to  Denver,  and  we 
were  soon  rolling  northward.  Some  distance  north  of  Col- 
orado Springs  we  passed  Palmer  Lake,  which  has  grown  to 
be  a  very  popular  and  attractive  summer  resort.  In  the  75 
mile  run  up  to  Denver  over  the  rails  of  the  Denver  and  Rio 
Grand  E.ailroad  we  passed  many  very  flourishing  ranches, 
with  hundreds  of  sleek  cattle  grazing  on  the  ranges.  On 
our  arrival  Monday  afternoon,  July  3,  at  the  Union  station, 
Denver,  we  were  met  by  a  committee  of  the  Chamber  of 
Commerce.  Headed  by  a  brass  band  we  were  conducted 
to  the  palatial  Hotel  Savoy,  Denver's  newest  hotel,  where 
we  were  served  with  an  elaborate  luncheon.  This  was  the 
most  enjoyable  luncheon  served  on  the  entire  tour. 

Mayor  Speer,  of  the  city,  the  Secretary  of  the  Cham- 
ber of  Commerce,  and  other  notables  made  addresses  of 
welcome,  giving  us  the  keys  of  the  city  and  ample  police 
protection.  The  response  for  the  editorial  party  was  made 
in  a  very  felicitous  manner  by  Mr.  Addison  B.  Burk,  of 
Philadelphia.  At  the  conclusion  of  the  speeches  we  entered 
the  special  cars  in  waiting  and  spent  two  hours  in  seeing 
all  the  best  sights  of  the  city,  being  much  interested,  pleased 

271 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 


VIEW   OF    SIXTEENTH   STREET,   DENVER 

and  surprised  at  the  beauty,  extent  and  thrift  of  the  pro- 
gressive city.  Denver,  the  capital  of  Colorado,  is  a  won- 
derful city.  It  is  the  most  progressive,  substantial  and  cos- 
mopolitan city  of  the  west.  It  fact  it  looks  just  like  a  sub- 
stantial eastern  city  picked  up  bodily  and  set  down  out  on 
the  plains,  there  to  be  a  shining  light  and  example  for  the 
rest  of  the  western  country.  There  is  nothing  shoddy  about 
it.  The  State  capitol  is  a  beautiful,  massive  structure.  All 
its  public  buildings  are  substantial  and  imposing  structures. 
The  business  blocks  are  large  and  of  the  best  style  and 
character  in  the  land.  Its  manufacturing  plants  are  large 
and  well  conducted.  The  city  is  full  of  palatial  homes  of 
the  rich,  and  the  people  of  moderate  means  have  handsome 
and  well-designed  houses.  Not  a  single  frame  house  is 

272 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 


VIEW  OF  SEVENTEENTH   STREET,   DENVER 

allowed  to  be  built  in  the  city.  Each  house  stand  far  back 
from  the  street  with  a  beautiful  lawn  in  front.  The  parks 
are  many,  large,  well  planned  and  beautiful.  The  streets 
are  wide,  well  paved,  well  kept  and  adorned  with  fine,  lux- 
uriant shade  trees.  The  public  utilities — the  electric  light, 
gas,  water  works  and  street  car  lines  are  all  modern,  com- 
plete and  well  managed.  The  city  is  full  oi  hotels  from 
the  highest  priced  down  to  the  most  modest  hostlery,  which 
are  capable  of  taking  care  of  the  largest  conventions  that 
enter  its  gates.  While  we  were  there  thousands  of  the 
members  of  the  Epworth  League  of  the  United  States  were 
gathering  in  the  city  for  their  annual  convention. 

The  Denverites  are  great  home  shouters.  They  say 
"Denver  is  the  most  desirable  residence  city  in  the  world." 
Here  every  breeze  bears  health  upon  its  wings.  It  has  no 
blizzards,  no  biting  winds,  no  drizzling  rains,  no  slush  and 

273 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST, 


UNION  STATION,   DENVER 

no  fog.  They  have  304  days  of  sunshine  every  year.  It 
is  a  city  of  the  plains,  but  has  a  mighty  bulwark  of  protec- 
tion on  the  west  in  the  majestic  ranges  of  the  Rocky  Moun- 
tains, shielding  it  from  the  fierce  winds.  It  stands  on  a 
plateau  a  mile  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  It  is  a  curious 
and  not  generally  known  coincidence  that  Denver  sits  in  the 
same  altitude  as  the  famous  cities  oi  Pekin,  China;  Naples, 
Lisbon,  Constantinople  and  Bokhara.  Many  easterners 
have  gone  to  Denver  in  search  of  renewed  health,  or  on  a 
visit  and  were  so  infatuated  with  the  beautiful  city  and  its 
glorious  climate  that  they  stopped,  tarried  and  continued  to 
stay  on  there  forever.  We  have  tasted  its  pleasures  and 
attractions  and  know  that  it  is  a  good  place  to  stay  in.  We 
were  loath  to  leave,  but  the  schedule  compelled  our  party 
to  start  that  night. 

The  special  train  was  broken  up  that  night  so  that  the 

274 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 


UNION    DEPOT,   PUEBLO,   COLORADO 

various  members  of  our  party  might  more  conveniently 
reach  their  distant  abiding  places.  Some  of  the  cars  went 
east  over  the  popular  Burlington  route;  some  journeyed  by 
the  old  standby,  the  Union  Pacific;  some  hastened  over  the 
famous  Santa  Fe,  and  the  Pennsylvania  and  Ohio  members 
were  rushed  over  the  interesting  Rock  Island  to  St.  Louis. 
The  trains  were  somewhat  delayed  by  floods  which  had 
badly  washed  the  tracks  in  a  number  of  places  in  Kansas. 
The  entire  4th  of  July  was  spent  rushing  through  the  vast 
corn  fields  of  Kansas,  which  cannot  be  called  "bleeding  Kan- 
sas" any  more,  for  that  immense  corn  crop  meant  gold  dol- 
lars by  the  bushels  to  the  farmers  to  cure  their  "bleeding" 
ills. 

The   Pennsylvanians,  the   Ohio  boys  and  some   New 
York  orphans  were  not  be  cheated  out  of  their  old-fashioned 

275 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 

Fourth  of  July  celebration,  so  speeches,  songs  and  fire- 
works were  the  order  of  the  day  on  the  cars,  and  the  fitting 
climax  of  it  all  was  the  following  impromptu  original  poem 
delivered  by  our  poet,  Mr,  James  H.  Potts,  of  The  Times, 
Troy,  New  York : 

THE  PILGRIM'S  FOURTH. 

Is  this  our  country's  natal  day, 
And  we  upon  the  pilgrims'  way? 
Where  are  the  festive  hours  we  know 
In  homes  we  left  long  weeks  ago  ? 

The  din  that  rose  with  morning's  sun 

Leave  us  in  quiet,  every  one; 

For  cannon's  mouth  at  break  of  dawn 

The  echoes  of  the  cannon's  yawn ; 

For  powder  grains  that  flew  like  hail 

The  brief  torpedo  of  the  rail ; 

For  Chinese  cracker  and  its  wheeze 

The  other  kind,  that  came  with  cheese ; 

For  the  revolver's  warning  bark 

Revolving  wheels  in  day  and  dark; 

For  proud  drum  major  shining  far 

The  modest  captain  of  a  car; 

No  blood  that  bids  the  surgeon  pause, 

But  "bleeding  Kansas' "  watery  laws. 

And  yet  the  glory  of  the  sun 
Is  brighter  than  the  rocket's  run. 
The  breadth  of  meeting  land  and  sky 
Grander  than  the  fire-works  of  July ; 
And  here  where  merges  South  and  North 
We  celebrate  the  patriot's  Fourth. 

Who  can  with  keener  sight  than  we, 
The  travelers  from  sea  to  sea, 
Discern  the  wonders  wrought  for  men 
When  flowed  the  Declaration  pen  ? 

276 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 

From  states  that  know  the  Atlantic's  surge 

We  crossed  the  Mississippi's  verge ; 

Saw  Oklahoma  peering  far, 

Await  the  rising  of  its  star; 

Like  boys  who  from  the  table  rise 

The  Texan  wondered  at  his  size ; 

El  Paso  strode  the  stream  below 

To  kiss  the  maids  of  Mexico ; 

While  Arizona's  torrid  beam 

Proved  the  mirage  was  not  a  dream. 

Will  ever  California's  breath 
That  wooed  us  from  the  Vale  of  Death 
Be  lost  to  memory's  deep  grand  state  ? 
Not  till  Heaven  opes  its  Golden  Gate. 
Midst  ancient  spires  that  seek  the  skies 
An  exposition's  towers  arise ; 
Lewis  and  Clarke  a  century  greets 
From  palace  homes  and  busy  streets. 

The  whisper  of  the  Mormon  hall 

Swells  to  a  roar  while  pledging  all 

To  make  of  Utah  such  a  state 

As,  pure  and  loyal,  must  be  great. 

As  Shasta's  glistening  summit  high 

From  redwoods  rose  to  azure  sky, 

So  Colorado's  colors  true, 

Soil  red,  white  mountains,  heavens  of  blue. 

No  loiterers  we  on  foreign  strand, 

We're  in  the  heart  of  Union  land. 

Nor  have  the  giants  of  the  past 
Vanished  from  out  the  picture  vast ; 
The  fathers  had  their  Washington, 
We  glory  in  a  later  son, 
And  all  the  pride  the  patriots  felt 
Glows  at  the  name  of  Roosevelt. 

Between  his  death  and  burial  lies, 
277 


RAMBLES  IN  THE  FAR  WEST. 

Where  tinged  with  gloom  are  festal  skies, 

One  who  from  our  own  writing  guild 

Was  in  diplomacy  most  skilled. 

Lo !  pendent  from  the  flag 

Grief's  streamer  for  the  death  of  Hay ! 

Westward  let  empire  take  its  way, 

We're  going  East,  perhaps  to  stay ; 

But  East  and  West,  with  South  and  North, 

Proclaim  an  undivided  Fourth. 

Pacific  union  is  our  boast, 

Union  Pacific  now  our  host ; 

And  though' like  wise  men  from  afar 

We  traveling  seek  home's  guiding  star. 

The  day,  the  place,  we  understand ; 

July  the  Fourth !  our  dear  land ! 

St.  Louis,  Missouri,  at  last  was  reached,  and  the  party 
separated  to  go  each  his  own  way  to  his  beloved  hearth- 
stone. After  five  weeks  of  journeyings  with  genial  com- 
panions, traveling  over  10,000  miles  of  railroads,  big  and 
small ;  seeing  the  greatest,  grandest  and  most  sublime  sights 
of  Nature  in  the  greatest  Empire  on  the  face  of  the  earth ; 
viewing  the  manifold  and  wonderful  works  of  man ;  tasting 
the  delights  of  life,  and  experiencing  unbounded  courtesy 
and  generous  hospitality  of  our  brethren  of  the  western  part 
of  our  mighty  Empire,  the  most  glorious  journey  of  our 
Association  was  done.  We  parted  with  the  tablets  of  our 
minds  stored  with  the  most  beautiful  pictures,  and  in  our 
memories  happy  recollections  of  unalloyed  pleasures. 


THE  END. 


JV 


!       1 


l  I 


Illii  i  I  I  I 


